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BOSTONs 



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FLOWERS 



FOR THE 



PARLOR AND GARDEN. 



EDWARD SPRAGUE RAND, JR. 



ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN ANDREW, AND A. C. WARREN. 



BOSTON: 
J. E. TILTON & COMPANY. 

1868. 






Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863. by 

Edward S. Rand, Jr., 

In the Clerk's OflSce of the District Joart of the District of Massachusetts. 



Presswork by John Wilson and Sou. 



1, 1 



IN MEMORY OF PLEASANT HOURS 



VIOLET BANK. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

Introduction 7 

I. The Green-house and Conservatory 15 

II. Window Gardening 48 

ni. Plants for Window Gardening 62 

IV. Plants for Window Gardening — Co7itimied. . . 88 

V. Plants for Window Gardening — Continued. . .117 

VI. Plants for Window Gardening — Continued. . . 140 

Vn. Cape Bulbs 160 

Vm. Dutch Bulbs 180 

IX. The Culture of the Tube Rose 198 

X. The Gladiolus and its Culture 203 

XI. How TO FORCE Flowers to Bloom in Winter. . 213 

XII. Balcony Gardening 224 

Xm. The Wardian Case, and Winter Garden. . . 232 
XrV. Stocking and Managing Wardian Cases. . . . 244 
XV. Hanging Baskets and Suitable Plants, and 

Treatment op Ivy 253 

1 * (5) 



6 CONTENTS. 

XVI. The Waltonian Case 262 

XVn. The Aquarium and Water Plants 273 

XVni. How TO GROW Specimen Plants. ...... 286 

XIX. OuT-DOOR Gardening. — Hot-beds 307 

XX, The Garden 318 

XXI. Small Trees and Shrubs. 326 

XXII. Hardy Herbaceous Plants 344 

XXIII. Hardy Annuals 352 

XXIV. Bedding Plants . 364 

XXV. Hardy and Half-hardy Garden Bulbs. ... 370 

XXVI. Spring Flowers, and where to Find them. . .381 





'Neath cloistered boughs each floral bell that swingeth, 

And tolls its perfume on the passing air, ^ _ 

Makes Sabbath in the fields, and ever ringeth ^^ x 

A call to prayer. ' t 

HITS sung Horace Smith, in 
years gone by, in one of the 
sweetest floral poems which the 
English language has produced. 

a verse which speaks to the heart, where its measured 

cadences flow in sympathy with the uprising love of 
Nature which springs unbidden, and sends forth its music 
to gladden many a rugged path of life. 

The love of flowers is universal : it is an old melody, 

(7) 



8 INTRODUCTION. 

which, first attuned, in earliest time, in the golden age of 
legendary lore, has come down to us, growing more mellow 
and sweeter as it chimed through the centuries, and now, 
as then, echoed, with a music akin to that of heaven, in 
the human heart. 

And this floral music has not been without its deep and 
lasting influence : little may we know of the countless 
paths of life which it has made brighter, and which have, 
long ages since, ended beneath a grassy, flower-sprinkled 
grave ; but we see it breathing over us from the acanthus 
leaves of the Corinthian capital, sounding from the silence 
of mediaeval marble, and echoing, again and again, in 
the rich strains of deathless poesy. It is one of the 
links binding the present to the past, joining us in sym- 
pathy with those who lived long ago ; and while we 
gather the rose, the lily, or the violet, we but renew a 
pledge with the olden time, and our heart beats in sym- 
pathy with the universal heart-beat of the human race 
for centuries. 

What volumes might be ^vritten on the history, the 
legends, the poetry of flowers ! Yet, dear reader, pleasant, 
and profitable withal, as such reading might be, ours is a 
homelier purpose. We glean not the legends of the past, 



INTRODUCTION. 9 

but offer you what may give promise for the future ; and 
believing this love of flowers to be a good, an almost holy 
feeling, it is our wish to minister to its development. 

It has been said that no botanist was ever an infidel ; 
may we not also say that no true lover of flowers can be a 
bad man? 

There is a secret influence arising from these bright 
gems of nature, which imperceptibly makes one holier and 
purer. 

And for this let the love of flowers be encouraged. 
Develop it in the mind of a child. Let him gi'ow up sur- 
rounded by flowers, and be assured that, in the garden of 
the heart, the blossoms will unfold, and golden fruit ripen 
in after years. 

We have said that the love of flowers is universal : we 
see them alike in the dwellings of the rich and the poor ; 
in the workman's shop, in the window of the busy factory, 
peeping into the poor man's window, and trellised round 
the abode of the rich. 

Yet with all this love for flowers, there is very little 
knowledge of culture. 

A plant is a living being ; it drinks and breathes ; it is 
sensitive as the most delicate constitution to changes of 



10 INTRODUCTION. 

temperature, and extremes of cold and heat; its tissues 
are as delicate as any in nature ; it has wants, which must 
be attended to as they arise, and neglect is sure to result 
in disease or death. There are two extremes in plant cul- 
ture, as usually pursued : the plants are either starved to 
death or overfed ; the result is the same, whether caused 
by neglect or kindness. 

We have often heard wonder expressed at the beauty of 
some plant grown in the poor man's parlor — a beauty 
which those of his wealthy neighbor do not attain. The 
reason is simple : in the one case, the wants are well pro- 
vided for ; in the other, they are neglected or over supplied. 

And here we touch the object of this little book, which 
is to tell, in as few and simple words as possible, what 
these wants are, and how they may best be attended to. 

A plant, or a stand of flowers, is a constant source of 
pleasure in a room ; it is a spring of sunshine, and its 
silent influence makes all the household more cheerful 
and better. 

We would have flowers in every house, for their sunny 
light, for their cheerful teaching, for their insensibly enno- 
bling influence. 

" But they are so much trouble ! " exclaims one. Granted, 



INTRODUCTION. 11 

dear madam. But has your experience thus far in life 
failed to teach you that all the good things of God come 
but from our own exertions ? Are they not the dearer to 
us because we have labored to bring them home ? 

Yet again I touch my theme : I would teach you how 
to have the finest flowers with the least trouble. 

" But flowers in a room are so unhealthy ! " exclaims the 
nervously sensitive. 

By no means. " Do they not exhale poisonous gases ? " 
But slightly ; and never can the few plants you would have 
produce enough to be hurtful. 

The smallest lamp burning in your bedroom wiU poison 
the air, by abstracting its oxygen, more than a whole bay 
window full of plants. 

There are, however, two other considerations which 
should not be overlooked — the efi'ect of powerful perfumes 
from flowers, which, being, in some cases, such as tube- 
roses, many orchids, &c., given ofi" very powerfully by 
night, may cause headache by impregnating the air ; and 
the dampness, which is exhaled from plants in pots. 

What, however, can be easier than the remedy, in the 
former case ? Simply remove the blooming plants from the 
room at night. 



12 INTRODUCTION. 

And in the latter, the dampness will hardly be percep- 
tible from any number of pots one would be likely to have 
in a single room. 

And yet again we propose to tell how even this may be 
avoided, by the growth of plants in the Wardian case — 
an experiment at once beautiful and interesting. 

We have said that plants breathed and drank ; and so, 
as living beings, they have many different modifications of 
the same organization. What is nourishment and life to 
some is poison and death to others. Who has not been 
seized, when entering some well-stocked green-house, with 
the desire to carry home some of the floral treasures ? and 
who has not been perplexed what to choose ? 

And with reason : some plants will flourish with window 
culture ; others droop and die. Our subject, again : it is 
to tell you what to choose that we have taken our pen. 

Your neighbor, the florist, grows tuberoses to perfection ; 
yours are profuse in leaves, but never bloom : we will tell 
you the secret of culture. 

He has violets all winter, and you sigh for a green- 
house : it is not necessary ; he does not grow his violets in 
the green-house ; you may have them, as well as he. 

And once again : admire as we will and must the exotic 



INTRODUCTION. 13 

beauties of our gardens and green-houses, there are floral 
treasures few have dreamed of. The road sides, the fields, 
the meadows, the river side, the woods, are teeming with 
them — delicate flowers, graceful grasses, filmy ferns, ra- 
diant lichens, and lovely mosses. 

Have you never gathered these ? Then let us take you 
by the hand on some sunny day in early June, and lead you 
with us. Sit with us on the lap of Nature, and cuU her 
precious but ever-renewed store, and you will find a new 
and unimagined pleasure, a joy as free as God's own sun 
and air, the child of sunlight and vernal breezes. 

Did you ever think of the difference in meaning between 
the two verbs, to live and to exist ? Did you ever think 
how few people live, compared with those who exist ? Did 
you ever think there may be a blindness far worse than 
loss of vision — a blindness of the spirit's eye to the beauty 
which the hand of a bountiful Creator has so lavishly 
spread around us ? And again for this I write ; to tell you 
of that beauty^ to open the eye to it ; not to tell you where 
to find it, for it is every wh^^e on this broad earth ; but, by 
pointing out its most strikmg features, to gradually lead 
you to see it aU around. 

And from this contemplation of Nature's beauty there 
2 



14 



INTRODUCTION. 



is but the uplifting of the eye to the footstool of the 
Creator. 

As we began, so let us end, in the soulful poem, — 

"Were I in churchless solitudes remaining, 

Far from all voice of teachers and divines, 
My soul would find, in flowers of God's ordaining, 
Priests, sermons, shrines." 

Glen Ridge, April, 1863. 





CHAPTER I. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



The Stove. — The Hot-house. — The Green-house. — The Conservatory. 

— The Pit. — " Span-roofed " and " Lean-to " Houses. — Exposure. — 
Construction and Materials. — Pitch of Koof and Cost. — Interior Ar- 
rangements Heating. — " Lean-to " House, — Interior Arrangement. — 

A Pit. — Proper Heating Apparatus. — The Brick Stove. — The Water 
Boiler. — Shutters. — A Cheap Green-house. — Its Construction and Cost. 

— Ventilation. — The Parlor Conservatory. — Heating. — Interior Ar- 

(15) 



IG 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



rangements. — Stocking' the Green-house. — Mistakes of Overstocking.' 
Neglected Plants. — Symmetrical Growth. — Camellias. — Daphnes. 
Azaleas.— Acacias.— Fuchsias. — Climbers. — Miscellaneous Plants. ■ 
One Hundred Choice Plants. 



OW shall I build a Green-house ? 
is the question that arises in 
the mind of the amateur, 
when the happy time arrives 
which permits him to indulge 
the dream of many years. Straightway 
he applies to an architect, or consults 
some book on horticultural buildings : 
the result is a glass structure, which 
fulfils all architectural requirements, 
is in good taste and of elegant appearance, and which 
lacks but one thing — adaptation to its purpose; that is, 
the healthy growing of plants. 

Now, why is this failure ? Simply because the rules 
governing the growth of plants under glass were not 
followed ; we must adapt our houses to the plants, and 
not expect the plants to conform to the houses. As a 
general rule, in building a green-house, avoid " cheap 
buildings," for, be assured, they will become dear enough 




THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 17 

in the end. Use only the best materials, and these of 
the most durable kind. Remember that the alternations 
of temperature, and the constant moisture, speedily affect 
the best timber, and that poor material is sure to be soon 
rendered useless by dampness and decay. 

But, as many are not able to build expensive structures, 
we propose to give a number of plans for buildings, of 
various cost. 

Let us first, however, thoroughly understand the sub- 
ject, and find out what we need. 

There are many glass structures, all indiscriminately 
called " green-houses." In common parlance, any glass 
house for the growth of plants is a green-house ; but, hor- 
ticulturally, there are difi'erent names for structures of 
difi'erent forms, and adapted for difi'erent purposes. ^Vhat, 
then, is the difference between a hot-house and a stove ? 
a green-house and a hot-house ? a conservatory and a 
green-house ? 

A Stove is a plant house, constructed with reference to 
obtaining a great degree of heat, where the temperature 
should never fall below seventy degrees Fahrenheit, and 
may rise even to one hundred and twenty degrees. The 
atmosphere is kept moist by constant evaporation of water, 
2^ 



18 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

and external air, when admitted, is tempered by passing 
over heated surfaces, lest the tender plant receive a chill. 
In this building are grown plants natives of the equator, 
and the East Indian orchids. It is often arranged so as to 
afford bottom heat, without which many of these plants do 
not succeed. 

The term Hot-house, properly speaking, is synonymous 
with stove : it is, however, used to designate any building 
in which artificial heat is used; a hot-house, or stove, being 
a house in which such a high temperature is maintained. 

A Green-liouse is a glass structure, where the tempera- 
ture ranges from forty to seventy degrees, and is calculated 
for the growth of those plants which will not bear the cold 
of our winters without injury. The term is, however, 
improperly and indiscriminately applied to any glass struc- 
ture, either with or without fire heat. 

The term " conservatory" is used properly to designate a 
show house, where the temperature ranges from forty to 
sixty degrees, and into which plants are removed, when 
coming into bloom, from the other houses. It is improperly 
applied, however, to any glass structure in which plants 
and flowers are grown. 

The glass structures connected with parlors are also 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



19 



called conservatories, and this signification of the word is 
generally accepted. 

A Pit is a structure below the surface of the ground, 
generally excavated six to eight feet, and covered with a 
glass roof. From such a structure the frost is excluded 
with little expense, and a great heat may be maintained. 
It is usually a cheap building, used for propagation, grow- 
ing roses, and forcing vegetables. 

The glass structure which will be in general request is 
the green-house, which is adapted for the growth of most of 
our flowering plants. The same structui-e may be con- 
verted into a stove by merely increasing the power of the 

heating apparatus. 

A green house may be 

"span-roofed" (Fig. 1), 

or *' lean-to" (Fig. 2), 

that is, with both sides 

of the roof of glass, or with a back wall of brick, stone, 

or wood, the roof and front being glass. 

The former is better for the symmetrical and healthy 

growth of the plants, but requires powerful furnaces to 

maintain sufficient heat; the latter is more economical, 

both in structure and heating, and is sufficient to grow 

most of our ordinary " green-house plants." 





Fig. 2. 



Fig. 1. 



20 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

A span-roofed house should run north and south, so as to 
receive the greatest possible amount of sun in the winter ; 
or, if this is impossible, it will be necessary to provide 
close shutters for all the northern exposure. 

A " lean-to" house should run east and west, thus facing 
the south. 

Now, having selected our site, which should be sheltered 
from the north as much as possible, let us mark out a 
space, say forty feet long and twelve feet wide ; around the 
outside of this excavate a trench, from two to four feet in 
depth, according to the nature of the soil (a damp, clayey 
soil requiring more depth than one of light, sandy consist- 
ency, the object being to get below the reach of the frost), 
and about one foot or more in width. This done, fill the 
trench to within a foot of the top with stones ; on these 
build a eight-inch wall of brick or stone, laid in hydraulic 
cement, to the height of one foot above the surface level ; 
on this lay a heavy wooden sill, which should be of sea- 
soned pine, which bears exposure better than other woods. 

Now for the carpenter work. You will have three feet 
of wood work, upright, in front, all round, both sides ; you 
will need two lights, from eaves to cap, on each side, each 
six feet long and three to four feet wide. That would give 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 21 

you ten lights, of four feet in "width, on each side, for your 
house of forty feet. But as three feet gives us a more 
manageable light, it will be better to have one or two more, 
and make them of that width. The upper lights, on both 
sides, should slide or swing so as to afford easy ventilation ; 
the lower should be stationary. The upright windows of 
the side should swing out, being hinged at the top ; the 
ends of the house should be permanently glazed, with a 
door in one, or, if desirable, in each end. 

The pitch of the roof should be forty-five degrees. Now, 
a house of this description could be built for about ten 
dollars per running foot. The glazing, of good serviceable 
glass, is included in this estimate, as well as hinges, ropes, 
and pulleys. The interior arrangement must vary according 
to the taste and means of the owner. 

If it is desired to make it a winter garden, a broad path 
should be laid, in 'gravel or cement, all round, at a distance 
of about two feet from the side. The centre should be a 
bed of rich, prepared soil, in M^hich large plants, such as 
acacias, and abutilons, should be planted. All around 
the side, and even with the bottom of the glass, a shelf 
should be built, about two feet wide, to be filled with 
flowering plants, in pots. Koses and other climbers 
should be trained up the rafters. 



22 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



The heating apparatus should run under the shelf along 
the sides, and may be hot water, or, what is the simplest, 
though perhaps the most expensive, from the waste of heat, 
the old brick flue. 

A house of this kind would present somewhat this 
appearance. 




Now, if a span-roofed house is too expensive, or we wish 
something simpler, let us see how easy it is to build a 
"lean-to" on the same plan. 

We have only to take one half of the span roof. Let 
us build our back wall of brick, good nine-inch work, with 
a suitable cap ; and with a coat of paint given now and 
then, our green-house will last, without repairing, for many 
years. 

A " lean-to" house, built after this plan, would present 
somewhat the appearance of Figure A. 

The cost would not be far from five hundred dollars. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 23 

This might be much reduced by making the back wall of 
wood, instead of brick, and sheathing it inside ; but it 
would not be so warm, and in the end would be more 
expensive, as it would, after a few years, require constant 
repairs. 




Fig. a. 

Most of the houses of florists who raise flowers for 
the market are not properly green-houses, but pits ; that 
is, they are excavated from two to four feet below 
the surface of the ground, and the roof laid on very low, 
so that a great saving of heat is efi'ected. The dampness 
is congenial to the plants, which often thrive wonderfully ; 
but these structures, being cheaply built, soon faU to 
pieces. As a general rule, in all horticultural structures, 
every part which is to come near, or in contact with, the 
ground, should be of stone or brick ; and, carrying this 
principle still farther, the less wood work we have, the 
better. 



24 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Could it be afforded at a reasonable price, it would be 
better to have the rafters of iron, as has been done in some 
cases. 

The interior of the house may be arranged in two ways, 
if a staging is required; the first, and, to our mind, the 
preferable arrangement, is, to build side shelves, as above 
described, and to run a long, flat table through the middle 
of the house, on which to place the plants, in pots. In a 
stove, this table is made a box, about a foot deep, which, 
is filled with moss, into which the plants are plunged, to 
the rims of the pots ; the hot water pipes are carried under, 
or through, this box, the moss is kept constantly damp, 
and thus a moist bottom heat is obtained, most congenial 
to the growth of the plants. 

The second mode is by a stage of ascending shelves, 
conforming to the roof of the house, a flat platform on top, 
for larger plants, the shelves again descending on the other 
side. By this mode, a great number of plants may be 
accommodated in a small house. The former mode is to be 
adopted where beautiful plants are desired; the latter, 
where quantity is the object, rather than quality. 

In a lean-to house, unless it is very wide, the latter is 
the only method to be adopted ; and if care is used not to 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 25 

crowd the plants, and the shelves are made wide enough, 
and the plants are frequently turned, to prevent them from 
growing one-sided, very creditable specimen plants may be 
produced. The accompanying sketch may serve to illus- 
trate this mode of interior arrangement. 

A small stove, or forcing 
house, is usually an adjunct 
to a conservatory ; in this the 
plants are brought forward, 
and forced into bloom, and 
then brought into the conser- 
vatory, where, in the cooler 
air, they will remain in per- 
fection a long time. It is also very useful for forcing straw- 
berries, and cucumbers, or early vegetables. All parts 
should be of masonry, and the large bed raised in the 
middle should have a hollow air chamber underneath, 
through which the hot-air pipes should pass, and should be 
built up of brick. The following sketch will give an idea 
of a pit of this kind. 

The cost would vary very much with the size, and the 
materials used, but the best could be built for about ten 
dollars per running foot. 
3 




26 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



The heating apparatus may vary at the caprice of the 
owner ; as these pits waste but little heat, a common brick 
stove will answer every purpose, and consumes but 
little fuel. 




This mode of heating is used by Mr. Rivers in all "his 
pits and green-houses, and is thus described : — 

The stove is a small mass of brick work, about two 
feet square and three feet high ; or it may be larger, if 
great heat is required, the front looking thus : — 

On opening the cast iron door, you see a 
small chamber about twelve inches square, 
with a grate at the bottom, on which the fire 
is made ; the other door, h, opens to an ash 
pit, of the same size, or perhaps deeper, 
below the fire. 



~T I . ■ rr 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 27 

In this ash-pit door there is a small hole, to admit air 
needful for combustion. This stove is on the principle of 
the air-tight stove, and consumes but little fuel, a small 
hod fuU. keeping the fire for twenty-four hours. 

The fire is surrounded by two thicknesses of brick, the 
inner one fire brick ; thus the heat given out is gradual, 
and the plants are not injured, as is often the case with 
our iron stoves. There is, of course, a small flue, running 
back into a chimney, to carry ofi" the smoke. The common 
covering of this stove is a thick cast iron plate, c. 

If, however, a higher and more uniform temperature is 
required, an iron boiler may be added to the stove. This 
is cast in one piece ; the pipes are of wrought iron, and 
screw on. It should be set directly over the fire chamber, 
so that its bottom wiU be on a line with the top of the 
door, a, and its top is covered by the iron plate, c. As the 
water in this boiler becomes heated, it rises and flows 
through the pipe, e, which is run to one end, or quite round 
the house, and returning, enters the boiler again near its 
bottom, /, as shown in the figure. 

e 

As the boiler is tight, the water 



of course makes the circuit of the 

whole pipe, and keeps up a constant circulation. 



28 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

In fact, the whole pipe, which rises but a few inches ^ in 
its course, may be considered a boiler, the only opening to 
which is at the highest point of the pipe, e, that is, if the 
pipes run around the house at the end farthest from the 
boiler, where there is an opening with a small reservoir for 
supplying it with water. This is the simplest form of hot- 
water heating ; it may be varied in size to any extent, and 
will heat any pit sufficiently. 

In heating green-houses, a great saving of fuel is effected 
by the use of wooden shutters fitted to all exposed portions 
of the range of glass. They may be made of rough 
boards, and should, while heavy enough to keep their 
place by their own weight, be of manageable size. They 
should be put on as soon as the sun leaves the house, and 
also on windy days and nights ; some days in winter they 
should not be removed at all. The most difficult nights to 
keep a green-house warm are those when the mercury 
shows from twenty to thirty degrees of frost, with a violent 
wind sweeping over the house. The wind carries off the 
heat very rapidly, and it is easier to maintain a high tem- 
perature with the mercury twenty degrees below zero, and 
no wind, than in a windy night, when the thermometer^ 
only shows twenty degrees of frost. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 29 

But, says my impatient reader, I cannot build span- 
roofed houses or pits at a cost of three to four hundred 
dollars ; yet flowers are to me a necessity — I must have 
them. My carpenter has frightened me with estimates ; 
tell me how to build a cheap house. 

Attention, then : Your house must be about twenty-five 
feet long by twelve feet wide ; smaller if you choose, but 
you will find this will give you little enough room. Pro- 
cure ten stout cedar posts, the larger the better, each about 
eleven feet long. Set them in a line, two and one half feet 
apart, on the northerly line of the space marked out for 
your house, having previously charred them half an inch 
deep for at least three feet at the lower end. Set them 
three feet deep, and ram them well ; they are the back wall 
of your house. Opposite each of these, and twelve feet 
from it, set ten cedar posts, six feet long, equally stout, 
charred, and set three feet deep. You have now the out- 
line of the house, and the inclination which will give the 
proper pitch to your roof. 

Board up your back wall with good pine boards, charred 

where they come in contact with the ground ; also the 

three feet of front between the ground and the eaves (or, 

if stone is plenty, it is far better to lay up a wall in 

3* 



30 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



cement) ; shingle the back outside, and lathe and plaster, 
or rather back-plaster, as it is called, within. If your 
front is board, clapboards look better than shingles, and 
cost but little more. Board up and shingle the ends, 
leaving one or more doors, as may be desired. Sink a 
walk, two feet wide, through the middle of the length of 
the whole house, deep enough to give plenty of head room ; 
board, stone, or brick up the sides. Your structure, thus 
far, is very inexpensive. Now for the rafters and glass 
roof. It is not, for our purpose, necessary to have sliding 
sashes, nicely fitted and framed, or grooved rafters ; these 
are expensive. The roof must be one entire piece. But 
do you dispense with ventilation r By no means. This 
would be a fatal neglect, in our climate, with such a power- 
ful summer sun. 

It is easily provided for by having boards, x and y, both 

front and rear, either at 
intervals or along the 
whole line, as may be 
needful. These are hung 
on hinges, so as to open 
outwards, a«nd permit a 
current of air to pass 
through the whole breadth of the house. 




THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 31 

To construct the roof, form a " plate " along the posts, 
front and back ; to this nail the rafters, running from post 
to post. Into these rafters fit lighter pieces of wood, run- 
ning at right angles with the rafters the whole length of the 
house, letting the top be flush with the top of the rafter, 
thus, R. E, being the rafters, C C being the cross-pieces. 




Then, parallel with the rafters, along the whole length 
of the house, nail other lighter strips to the cross-pieces, 
C C, securing them at eaves and top to the plate. 

These strips should be grooved like a common sash bar, 
and laid upon the roof just far enough apart to receive the 
glass. Glaze with common clear glass. Paint all with 
fire-proof paint, and you have a green-house sufficient for 
all purposes, at a cost of about six dollars per foot. This 
cost may be indefinitely increased by using finer materials ; 
our estimate is for rough boards and common glass. Heat 
by a common stove, as above described, or by a brick flue. 
For this latter, however, a small cellar near one end, cov- 



32 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

ered with a bulk-head door, will be necessary for the 
furnace ; and also a shed for storing coal, and for a potting 
room. This may be built on behind at a trifling cost. 

It is also advisable to have a gutter along the eaves, to 
catch the water from the roof. This should communicate 
with a large hogshead sunk in the ground inside, and thus 
a supply of water, of the proper temperature, is always 
at hand. 

A structure of this sort will answer equally well for a 
cold grapery, or for a peach house, in which cases the 
plastering may be dispensed Avith, and the house may be 
battened instead of shingled, by which the cost would be 
some"vvhat reduced. 

A conservatory, communicating with the parlor, is a 
beautiful addition to a house, and is easily constructed. 
We live in the age of bow windows, and by lengthening 
one of these our conservatory is built. Let the sides and 
end be of glass ; the sides may be stationary or sliding 
windows ; the end, a door opening upon the lawn or garden 
walk. The roof should have some sliding sashes for ven- 
tilation. The width must be that of the bay window; 
the length may be according to the taste of the owner, but, 
to look well, should be proportioned to the width. It 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 33 

should communicate with the parlor by glass doors, in order 
to prevent the dampness from entering the house. Heating 
should be done by a small stove, with hot-water boiler 
fitted as above described, the pipes to be carried round the 
house, and hidden by shelves for plants. 

The interior arrangements must vary with the taste of 
the owner. Climbers, such as roses, bignonias, and passion 
flowers, should be planted in large tubs, or in sunken brick 
pits, filled with prepared soil. 

The stove may be hidden by a staging, or by large 
plants standing around it ; or, if desired and convenient, 
the heating apparatus might be in the house cellar, and 
only the pipes, which could be hidden, enter the con- 
servatory. 

This conservatory may run south, east, or west ; but in 
any case, wooden shutters, to be put up on cold and windy 
nights, should be provided for the sides. Double windows 
may be used, but the plants do not thrive so well as with 
single glass. 

And now, having built our green-house, we must stock it. 

Do not, however, be in haste ; the green-house will fill 
up fast enough. Let us not run into the error of almost 
aU amateurs, and overstock; let our aim be quality, not 



34 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

quantity ; and, to enable us to select, let us look at other 
green-houses, and gain from the experience of others. 
Let us visit any green-house in our neighborhood, and care- 
fully examine the collection : in how many shall we find a 
dozen really beautiful specimen plants ? Here and there, 
now and then, a fine, weU-bushed, or trained, well-propor- 
tioned plant may be seen ; but the mass are tall, long- 
drawn, ungainly, ugly plants, which, aside from their com- 
panions, possess no beauty or symmetry. How, then, do 
they appear so well? By grouping; each hides the defects 
of each, and a stage-full of these ugly, ill-grown plants 
may often present a fine appearance. But this is not the 
true end to be gained in floriculture ; in this way we can 
never approximate to perfection; the evil grows year 
by year. 

Of what plants are the collections composed? Plants 
from every region of the globe, all huddled together in a 
space not large enough generally to grow those of one 
country to perfection. A small house, some sixty feet long, 
will be found to contain a collection of camellias, which 
flower and grow best in a temperature not above sixty 
degrees ; ericas, which require about fifty degrees of heat ; 
azaleas, which will bear any low, dry temperature; Cape 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 35 

plants, which need a different treatment from any of the 
above ; acacias, oranges, geraniums, pelargoniums, tro- 
paeolums, fuchsias, begonias, cyclamen, ixias, sparaxis, 
oxalis, amaryllis, roses, and hundreds of other plants, 
dissimilar in habits and nature, all requiring a different 
treatment, each needing its peculiar atmosphere and tem- 
perature ; and often a few sickly orchids, or other stove 
plants, with yellow leaves and weak aspect, from want of 
proper heat, thrust in to fill up the spaces between the 
larger pots : all these are crowded into one small house. 
Is it strange that none ever reach perfection ? that all are 
more or less diseased ? that the flowers are poor, and the 
plants sickly ? Can we expect it to be otherwise ? 

None will deny the beauty of a specimen plant, let the 
kind be what it may ; and its superiority over an ill-gro\vn 
plant, let the latter be ever so rare in variety. The public 
eye is attracted by symmetrical beauty, and not by novelty 
in variety. To the common observer a well-groAvn speci- 
men of the almost forgotten fuchsia globosa is far more 
beautiful than some new and rare plant, which presents no 
symmetry of proportion. 

We would by no means discourage the taste for new 
plants ; it is a healthy tendency, but may be carried too far. 



36 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

If we neglect all our old favorites, or give up well-grown, 
valuable plants for others of unproved merit, simply because 
the latter are new, the passion for novelties becomes a dis- 
ease, and produces bad effects in practice. There is in this, 
as in all other things, a happy medium, which alone is the 
safe course : either extreme will lead us into error. 

The passion for novelties, or any injurious effects arising 
therefrom, one would naturally suppose would be confined 
to amateurs, simply because — if for no other reason — it 
can only be indulged in by those whose pecuniary means 
are ample. 

But this is not the case : we find our gardeners exerting 
themselves to meet any demand for neM^ rare, and expen- 
sive plants, to the neglect of our old and well-tried 
favorites. 

All of us can call to mind s6me flowers, which, once 
popular, are now hardly to be found in any collection ; and 
yet we are at a loss to give a reason. Let us look at a few 
cases. 

We all remember a pretty little double-flowering brier, 
which goes by the name of " bridal rose ; " it is an ex- 
quisite plant, — foliage very delicate, and of a peculiar 
living green, covering every branch ; flowers snowy white. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 37 

rose-shaped, with a green centre, and studding the plant ; 
habit most favorable for symmetrical culture ; and yet we 
may search in vain in our green-houses for this plant, com- 
bining so many desirable qualities : it is only to be found 
grown in old pitchers, and in the windows of the poorer 
classes, or in some private conservatory, where its beauties 
are appreciated. Another instance: Can a plant more 
ornamental at every season than the achsenia malvaviscus 
be found ? All the year it is studded with its scarlet blos- 
soms and ornamental white berries ; these, contrasted with 
the green leaves, produce a charming effect ; and yet a few 
years since it was impossible to procure a plant. Latterly 
it has appeared in some gardeners' catalogues ; but whether 
from any demand or an appreciation of its merits it is diffi- 
cult to say. The writer never saw but one fine specimen of 
this plant, and that was a picture of beauty, over four feet 
in height, well bushed, covered with healthy foliage, and 
the end of each branch cro\\Tied with coral flowers, while 
the berries gemmed the whole plant, white, blush, and red. 
Such a plant is worth a green-house full of the trash gen- 
erally cultivated; and all this had been done by careful 
attention in a parlor, the plant never having been carried to 
a green-house : if this can be done in house-culture, what 
4 



38 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

ought we to expect from those who have every facility for 
growing plants to advantage? 

Instances of this kind might be multiplied, but these 
must suffice. What has caused this neglect, we are at a 
loss to say. And another question arises : Can a remedy be 
found ? We think it can. Let our cultivators, our garden- 
ers, our amateurs, estimate a plant by its real beauty, value 
it for its intrinsic merit, and not by the factitious standards 
of novelty, or dollars and cents. Suppose you have a green- 
house full of rare plants, but all poor, ill-grown specimens, 
costly, but not beautiful ; your neighbor has a dozen fine 
specimen plants, in which Nature, assisted by all the 
appliances of art and care, has developed a perfection of 
form, a vigor of growth and foliage, a profusion of flower ; 
let these all be common, well-known plants — fuchsias, 
azaleas, even verbenas, or other soft-wooded plants : which 
has approached nearer the true end of floriculture^ regard- 
ing it either as a pleasure or as a science ? Surely he who 
develops to the best advantage the powers of Nature. But 
we have taken an extreme case ; there may be as great 
beauty, and often is, in the new plants as in the old. 
Some of the introductions of the last few years possess beau- 
ties of which a short time since we never dreamed. Another 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 39 

question : Are we any nearer improvement ? These plants 
are the fashion of to-day, and we fully appreciate their 
beauty; but to-morrow some new taste will develop, and 
before our new plants, in the ordinary course of nature, 
have time to grow into good-sized specimens, they are out 
of date, and are discarded or neglected as old-fashioned. 
This may seem a severe view, a harsh statement of facts, 
but it is literally true. 

If we look at plants with the eye of the botanist, the 
simplest weed becomes invested with the highest interest ; 
and to the botanist the rarer and newer plants are objects 
of special attention ; but his task, or rather pleasure, differs 
from that of the florist : the botanist would turn away from 
the most beautiful double flower ever produced, regarding it 
as a monstrosity. But we are not writing for botanists, — 
with us they are few and far between, — but for gardeners, 
amateurs, and florists, who esteem a plant rather for its 
flower, foliage, growth, and other obvious beauties, than for 
its structural adaptations, be they ever so curious and 
beautiful. 

If our amateurs will grow fewer plants, and grow these 
few well, — if they will discard the mass of rubbish (for it is 
nothing else) which cumbers the stages of their green-houses, 



40 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

and grow their plants with plenty of room, light, and air, 
the evil will be remedied. 

They profess to grow plants for their beauty, not from 
any profit to be derived from them ; and yet with this their 
avowed object, their green-houses seldom present a more 
respectable appearance than those of gardeners who profess 
nothing. 

But it may be said, amateurs need the flowers for their 
own use, and therefore must grow plants to produce the 
most bloom. If this is so, let them grow their flowers for 
cutting in some green-house used for nothing else, and use 
their conservatories and fine plant-houses for specimen 
plants. 

But there is a fundamental error underlying all this 
theory; a poorly grown plant does not produce more fiowers 
than one grown with care as a specimen ; the former may 
be sooner drawn into bloom, but the latter affords the 
greatest profusion. 

A constant cutting of the flowers will ruin a specimen 
plant, unless great care is taken ; and this, together with 
the time taken to perfect the specimen, is another reason 
why gardeners will not grow specimens. 

But the plant is the object of attraction as much as the 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 41 

flower ; without it the flowers are not sho\vn to the best 
advantage, and the perfection of beauty is attained when a 
perfectly symmetrical plant is seen, healthy in foliage, free 
from disease, and gemmed with a profusion of bud and 
blossom. 

Let us consider a few of the plants which, now neglected, 
would, as specimens, be pictures of beauty. 

And first, the Camellia. This plant is by nature of the 
most symmetrical form, and with little care can be perfectly 
grown. Contrary to the general opinion, there is no plant 
which hears pruning better than the Camellia, Let the 
branches be well pruned out, so as not to interfere ; the 
plants be stocky and well covered with foliage ; the roots 
allowed room enough, and the soil kept sweet and rich; 
and the specimen is obtained. The common care of remov- 
ing all but two flower-buds, or even one, from each shoot, 
with other minor cares, must not be neglected ; but, above 
all, do not crowd your plants ; let them have light and air 
on every side, above and below, and keep an even, low 
temperature : follow this plan, and you will no longer com- 
plain of weak plants, long-drawn, tall specimens with yel- 
low leaves and dropping buds ; and you will be surprised at 
the health and vigor of your plants. From one plant thus 
4* 



42 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

cared for, you Avill obtain more bloom than from a dozen 
camellias as commonly grown. 

The Daphne — a lovely, always grown, but always neg- 
lected flower — will make a lovely specimen. Do not spare 
the knife, for its tendency is to long, leafless branches. 
You must also begin with a young plant, for to reclaim an 
old specimen is well nigh hopeless. 

In other chapters we propose to give rules for growing 
specimen plants ; in this connection we only mention those 
peculiarly adapted for green-house culture. 

The beauty of Azaleas as specimens cannot be too 
highly praised; no green-house should be without them; 
yet a fine specimen is the w^ork of years. 

Acacias are only seen to advantage planted out in the 
green-house borders; being by nature trees, they never 
make fine specimens in pot culture. 

AcH^NiA MALYAviscus, as before observed, makes a 
lovely specimen, and bears pruning Avell. 

Fuchsias of all kinds show to great advantage, properly 
grown, — except, perhaps, the white corolla varieties, which 
are of too Aveak a habit to make large plants. 

Oranges bear pruning well, and grow to a large size. 

Ericas. We read of fine specimens, many feet in diam- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 43 

eter and well bushed. Have we ever seen a specimen 
erica ? 

Epaceis. The same remarks apply. 

Kennedias are all well adapted for specimens. Trained 
on balloon trellises and in full bloom, what can be prettier ? 

The same may be said of Aelamandas, Rhyxcosper- 
MUM, CoMBRETUM, Stephanotus, and a host of other 
climbers. 

Chorizema varium also makes a beautiful specimen 
trained in this way. 

All the soft-wooded climbers are superb objects, grown 
on large trellises, if the foliage is in good health. 

Pelargoniums and Geraniums, we all know, make su- 
perb specimens ; also Verbenas, Heliotropes, and other 
plants of the same nature. Hoyeas, and plants of kindred 
nature, are very poor subjects for specimens ; but much may 
be effected by care and patience. The Cape bulbs, such as 
Ixias, and Sparaxis, are never treated with proper care ; 
they are forced into bloom, and then, instead of allowing 
the leaves to ripen well, the plants are thrust out of the way, 
dried off, and the only wonder is, they ever perfect any 
bulbs. As it is, the bulbs decrease in size year by year, 
and at last, being too small to bloom, are cast aside as 



44 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

worthless. These remarks apply to all green-house bulbs, 
except, perhaps, the Cyclamen. We have never seen well 
grown pots of Cape bulbs, except in a few instances. 

Will not some amateur make the growth of bulbs a 
specialty, and show us what can be done in this almost 
unexplored region of floriculture ? We should say unex- 
plored in this country. In England, much has been done, 
and great has been the reward. 

Okchids make superb specimens, but the growth is slow, 
and the attention needed immense. The various classes of 
ferns, mosses, lycopodiums, and other cryptogamous plants, 
can be very prettily grown. 

The vast class of variegated-leaved plants are pictures of 
beauty if properly grown, and well repay any outlay of care 
or expense. 

Even with our common herbaceous plants, or with annu- 
als, a very pretty effect may be produced. 

Thus we have shown that the neglect is not caused by 
want of subjects upon which to practise. 

If we continue to show our green-houses filled with 
plants which, by their careless growth and sickly aspect, 
are a disgrace to us, the fault is our own. 

Let us give our plants the benefit of our increased knowl- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 45 

edge, — give them air, light, and room to develop their 
beauties — and we shall soon see that they will not be slow 
to avail themselves of the liberty. It will then be our care 
to repress undue luxuriance, or to train into proper shape 
the wandering branches. 

Above all, feed your plants well ; they cannot thrive in a 
poor soil, or draw nourishment from the earth if you do not 
supply it. Again, adapt the soil to the wants, to the 
nature of the plant ; give sand, peat, or leaf-mould, as 
the plant requires. Give water as the habits of the plant 
require, and not promiscuously. 

These may seem little matters, but they are vital to the 
plant, and a want of attention to them is sure to result in 
vexation and disappointment. 

From these hints it will be easy for the most inexperi- 
enced to choose what to grow ; yet another word of caution 
may not be misplaced : — 

In a green-house, grow only green-house plants — in a 
stove, only stove plants: do not mix the two, or disap- 
pointment will be the result. 

The following list will be found useful in choosing plants 
for the green-house. The culture of each will be given in 
succeeding chapters, with the best varieties. 



46 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



Plants for a Green-House twenty-five feet long. 



12 Camellia Japonica, 
4 Orange Trees, 
1 Mandarin Orange, 

1 Lemon, 

6 Daphne Odorata, 

2 " " Rubra, 
4 Diosma Odorata, 

1 " Capitata, 

4 Erica Caffra Alba (Heath), 

4 Erica CafTra Rubra (Heath), 

1 Cytisus Racemosa (Broom), 
6 Heliotropes, in sorts, 

2 Oestrum Aurantiacum, 
2 Dwarf Acacias, 

1 Aloysia Citriodora (Lemon 

Verbena), 
1 Burchellia Capensis, 

1 Coronella Glauca, 

2 Stevia, 

2 Eupatorium Elegans, 
2 Abutilon, 
2 Chorizema, 



1 Fabiana Imbricata, 
Jasminum Odoratissimum and 

Multiflorum, (Yellow and 
White Jasmine,) 

2 Kennedias, 

10 Azalea Indica, 
6 Fuchsias, 

1 Justicia Carnea, 

2 Correas, 

1 Linum Trigynum, 

3 Mahernias, 

2 Manettks, 
2 Myrtles, 

1 Pittosporum Tobira, 

1 Sparmannia Africana, 

2 Passiflora (for rafters), 
1 Olea Fragrans, 

1 Tecoma Jasminoides (for 

rafter), 
1 Thea Viridis (Green Tea), 
1 Veronica Andersonii, and 

Roses. 



Add to these a few Verbenas, Cupheas, Salvias, Lobelias, 
Tropaeolum, Calceolarias, Geraniums, and Cinerarias, all 
of which soft-wooded plants can be raised from seeds or 
cuttings, and the green-house will be full enough if the 
plants are of any size. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 47 

We have in this place purposely omitted to mention 
the many bulbs which may be grown in the green-house, 
preferring to treat of them in another place. 

Any of the above plants may be procured at any well- 
stocked green-house, and are mostly low priced. The whole 
collection, if small plants were chosen, could be furnished 
for about seventy-five dollars. 




CHAPTER II 



WINDOW GARDENING. 



Growth of Plants. — Situation and Exposure. — Heat. — Moisture. — Tem- 
perature of Room. — Ventilation. — Washing. — Syringing. — Watering. 
—Choice of Pots. — Window Flower Tables. — Window Shelves.— 

(48) 



WINDOW GARDENING. 



49 



Potting. — Manuring, — Soil. — Peat. — Loam. — Sand. — Leaf Mould. — 
— Manure. — Proportions of Each. — Insects. — Green Fly. — Mealy 
Bug. — Scale. — Bed Spider. — Priming. 




O grow plants to perfection in a room 
is not an easy thing. To insure any 
degree of success, a careful and con- 
stant attention to details is necessary. 
^^^ These details are all little things in 
themselves ; they seem almost trivial ; but 
their observance is imperative, if we would 
have our plants in healthy foliage and profuse 
bloom. It is by the neglect of all, or some of 
these, that plants grown in rooms usually present 
such a diseased, unhealthy appearance. 

Any one of us can call to mind some friend, who, as we 
say, is always successful with flowers ; has blossoms when 
no one else can, and whose plants are models of health and 
beauty. We laughingly say, the flowers are his friends ; 
he knows them, and they bloom for him ; and so it is, in 
fact ; he knows their peculiarities, attends to their wants, 
feeds them properly, afibrds the requisite light and air. Is 
it then a wonder that for him the grateful flowers put on 
5 



50 WINDOW GARDENING. 

their richest dress of green, and reach out their perfumed 
blossoms ? 

But before we give rules for growing window plants, let 
us look at these little things, which may come under the 
head of general instructions. And, first, the 

Situation. 

We have decided to grow window plants, and we must 
now choose our window. Let it, if possible, face the east 
or south ; that is, be one which receives the full rays of the 
morning sun. If we are unfortunate enough not to have 
such a window, choose the one having the most sun ; the 
afternoon sun is better than none at all. There are very 
few plants which will flourish without sunlight, and, as a 
general rule, the more we can obtain the better. If you 
have a bay window, looking south, you need ask nothing 
better. 

Heating. 

If possible, choose a room Avhere the temperature at 
night never falls belov/ forty to forty-five degrees. Let this 
heat be maintained by an open fire, or by an air-tight 
stove, on which a large pan of water should be constantly 
evaporating. A furnace is injurious to plants, by reason 



WINDOW GAEDENING. 51 

of its dry heat only ; the little gas escaping from our best 
furnaces is not sufficient to affect plants injuriously. And 
while speaking of gas, if possible avoid the use of gas 
light in the room ; the unconsumed gas, always given off, is 
fatal to delicate plants, and hurtful to the most hardy. If 
you must use gas in the room, arrange glass doors to shut 
off your plants from the room, or give up window plants, 
and confine yourself to growth in Wardian cases. If a 
furnace is your only means of heating, provide for sufficient 
moisture by constant evaporation. Another objection to a 
furnace is, that it keeps the room too warm for a healthy 
growth of the plants. 

The cause of so many window plants showing long, 
white, leafless stalks, with a tuft of leaves on the end, is, 
too great heat and too little light. Proportion the two, and 
you obtain a short, stocky, healthy growth. In rooms, 
this proportion is always unequal. In winter, there are 
eight hours of sun to sixteen of darkness; we keep the 
plant at a temperature of sixty to seventy degrees all the 
twenty-four. In a green-house, on the contrary, the tem- 
perature faUs to forty degrees at night, rising, by the heat 
of the sun, by day, to a maximum of seventy. 



52 WINDOW GARDENING. 

Ventilation. 
This must not be neglected; it is as essential to the 
health of the plant as to the human organization. The best 
method of providing it is to open the top of the window when 
the sun's rays are hottest on the plants. The quantity of 
air to be given must be proportioned to the outside tem- 
perature. In cold, cloudy days, but little, and often none, 
should be given. Care must be taken never to allow a 
direct stream of cold air to blow upon any plant. 

Washing. 

This must be done frequently. A plant breathes like an 
animal, and not through one mouth, but thousands. As is 
well known, the plant draws up its food from the soil 
through the roots, in a liquid form. This food, very much 
diluted, must be concentrated, and thus assimilated to the 
plant. We have in the leaves of the plant, a most beauti- 
ful arrangement to answer this need. They are filled with 
" stomata," or breathing pores, which allow exhalation when 
moisture is freely supplied, and check it when the supply 
falls off. These little mouths are found on both sides of 
the leaf in most plants, but usually on the lower side in by 
far the greater number. They vary in different plants from 



WINDOW GARDENING. 53 

several hundred to more than one hundred and fifty thou- 
sand to a square inch of leaf. Now we are careful in our 
own persons to bathe daily, lest, as we say, the pores of the 
skin become obstructed; yet we are willing to allow our 
plants to go unwashed for a whole winter, when the pores 
are much smaller, more numerous and delicate, than those 
of the body. The rule is obvious : wash the leaves of the 
plants, both under and upper sides, at least once a week ; 
if oftener, the better. Use water moderately warm, and if 
the plants become very dirty, a little weak soap-suds is 
beneficial. This washing should be carefully done with a 
soft sponge or cloth in the case of plants with thick, pol- 
ished leaves, such as camellias, oranges, and daphnes. 
Where plants have hairy leaves, or the substance is soft, 
water is best applied with a small sjTinge, fitted with a 
very fine " rose." To use this, place the plant on its side 
in the kitchen sink, syringe it well, turning it from side to 
side. Let it stand a few minutes for the water to drain off*, 
and return it to its place : it will thank you for its bath by 
its bright foliage. Never wet the flowers of a plant; water 
always injures them ; nor allow drops of water to stand on 
any leaves in the sunshine : the rays of the sun form a 
focus in the drop of water and scorch the leaf. Once a 
5* 



54 WINDOW GARDENING. 

month, at least, wash the stem and branches of all the hard- 
wooded plants with a soft sponge dipped in lukewarm 
water; this prevents the lodgment of insects, and con- 
tributes to the health of the plant. 

Wateking 

Is one of the most difficult subjects to prescribe by rule, 
yet there are some rules of general application. 

Let it be always done with a watering-pot with a fine 
rose, such as may be procured at any tinman's. The 
advantage of this is, it allows the water to fall drop by drop 
over the whole surface of the soil, whereas, if a pitcher is 
used, the plants are deluged, or holes made in the earth by 
the stream of water, and the roots not unfrequently dis- 
turbed. 

Let it be done regularly ; the morning is the best time, 
and once a day. 

The surface of the soil should never be allowed to become 
perfectly dry, nor should it be sodden with moisture. The 
temperature of the water used is of vital importance. It 
should neither be cold nor warm, but just the temperature 
of the atmosphere of the room. Thus no check, or chill, or 
undue excitement is given to the roots, both roots and 
branches being equally warm. 



WINDOW GARDENING. 55 

A good plan is, to set over night a large pan of water 
among your flowers, then you will be sure of a sufficiency 
of water of the proper temperature for the morning water- 
ing. If this is too much trouble, remember in watering, it 
is better to have the water too warm than too cold, that is, 
of a higher rather than a lower temperature than the roots 
and branches. Now as to the quantity of water. No rule 
of universal application can be prescribed. What is life to 
one class of plants is death to another. The amount of 
water necessary to make a calla lily thrive would kill a 
cactus or a heath, and yet the drought necessary for the 
cactus would be death to the heath. 

A good rule, however, is never to allow the soil to 
become dusty or muddy, and with drainage in potting the 
latter is easily prevented; by regular waterings, the for- 
mer. Particulars of treatment for different plants will be 
given when treating of each plant. 

Never allow water to stand in the saucers of the pots 
unless the plants are semi-aquatic. 

Pots. 
Choose the common flower-pots, selecting those which 
are light colored rather than those which are brick red; the 



66 WINDOW GARDENING. 

former are soft baked and are more porous ; in these, the 
plants thrive better. 

Discard all glazed, china, glass, or fancy painted pots ; 
they are not porous, and plants seldom thrive in them. 
There is nothing neater than the common earthen pot, if 
kept clean. If, however, something more ornamental is 
desired, choose some of the fancy pots, — and some are very 
pretty and artistic in design, — and let them be large 
enough to set the common pot inside. 

But there is a very pretty way of fitting up a window 
which is but little practised ; it is, in fact, making the win- 
dow a flower garden. Build from your window into the 
room a rounding wooden shelf, say, if the window is 
large, three feet in diameter from window to outer edge, 
but at any rate proportioned to the size of the window. 
On this, place a large box, wood, or earthen ware unglazed, 
made to conform to the shelf, and in this put your plants, 
the taller at the back, the smaller in front, and on each 
side a climber to run over the top of the window, on a neat 
wire trellis or on strings. 

It is desirable to have holes in the bottom of the box to 
allow superflous water to escape, and to permit this, the 
shelf should be covered with zinc, which is preferable to 



WINDOW GARDENING. 57 

tin, as it does not rust, and have a low rim all around it, 
with a little hole to drain off the superfluous water running 
from the boxes. This is a very pretty way of window gar- 
dening, but is only to be practised in a very light room ; 
for in a room with but one window, the plants would all 
grow to the light, and being planted out, they could not be 
turned as if in pots. A pretty way to grow low plants, 
bulbs, and is to fit a box, say eighteen inches wide, and as 
long as the window, into the Avindow, and then place the 
taller plants behind in pots. This box could be turned as 
occasion required, or as the plants grew towards the light, 
or could even be removed from window to window. 

Potting. 

But a few words are necessary. Always fill the lower 
inch of the pot with broken potsherds to secure drainage. 
In filling the soil around the plants, press it in firmly and 
establish the plant well. There is no advantage in loose 
potting. 

In re-potting, pare ofi" as much of the old, sour soil as 
possible, being careful not to injure the roots, and place the 
ball of the plant in the centre of the new pot, filling in all 
around with fi:esh soil. As a general rule, plants need 



58 WINDOW GARDENING. 

re-potting whenever the roots begin to curl round the inside 
of the pot, or as gardeners say, " touch the pot." This is 
easily ascertained by turning the pot down, striking the 
rim gently against some object by a quick rap, holding the 
ball of earth and the plant on the palm of the other hand. 
The plant may thus be taken from the pot and examined, 
returned again, settled by a smart stroke of the bottom of 
the pot on the table, and will be none the worse for the 
inspection. This is also a good way to detect worms in 
pots, they generally living near the outside of the ball. The 
operation must, however, be quickly done, or the worm will 
be too nimble and withdraw into the interior of the ball. 

Stirring the surface of the soil is very beneficial, especially 
for roses, if the roots are not thereby injured. Top dressing 
is also productive of good effects, particularly with old 
plants in heavy pots and tubs. It is simply removing the 
top soil as far down as the upper roots, and refilling the 
pot with fresh, light, rich soil. 

Mantjehstg 
Is not generally needed in pot plants. A mixture of pow- 
dered or small bits of charcoal in the soil adds a deeper lus- 
tre to the green of the foliage and brilliancy to the color of 



WINDOW GARDENING. 59 

the flowers. Bone shavings produce the same effect on 
hyacinths. 

Liquid manure should be sparingly used, and then very 
weak. 

If guano, a tea-spoonful to a quart of water applied once 
a week. 

Liquid stable manure in about the same proportion, 
applied as seldom. 

Soil. 

In potting window plants rich soil should generally be 
used. The different kinds of soil are, — 

Peat, which is black earth or decomposed vegetable 
fibre, usually taken from meadows or damp woods. If a 
mixture of white sand is with it, it becomes more valuable. 

Loam, our common garden soil. It may be black or 
light brown. The best is obtained by taking the turf of 
old pastures and letting it lay till it all crumbles. 

Sand, common, or " silver," such as used by glass 
makers. It should be free from salt. White beach sand 
may be freshened by frequent washings. 

Leaf mould, the decomposed leaves, being the top soil in 
old woods. 



60 WINDOW GARDENING. 

Manure, the material of an old hot-bed, well rotted 
and entirely decomposed; the older the better. 

From these five earths all the soil for green-house opera- 
tions is compounded. 

In treating of each plant hereafter we will give its con- 
genial soil. 

As a general soil for potting plants, we would say two 
parts leaf mould, one part manure, one half part loam, one 
half part peat, one part sand. 

Insects. 

The only ones troubling house plants are, the green fly, 
the mealy bug, the scale, and the red spider. 

Green fly is to be killed by a smoking with tobacco. Put 
the plant under a barrel with smoking tobacco; let it 
remain, say fifteen minutes ; then give it a syringing. 

Mealy bug is to be searched for and destroyed. Fre- 
quent spongings do much to keep down this pest. 

Scale is to be treated in the same way. Warm soap-suds 
are peculiarly distasteful to the creature. 

Red spider, which is seldom found on house plants, is 
nourished by a dry, warm atmosphere. Water is certain 
death. Keep the foliage syringed and atmosphere moist, 
and you will have no red spider. 



WINDOW GARDENING. 



61 



Pruning 
Is but little required. Should a branch grow out of place 
or die, it should be neatly cut off ; and a judicious pinching 
does much to regulate the shape of a plant. More wiU be 
said on this subject in the chapter on specimen plants. Of 
course all dead leaves and old blossoms should be cut off at 
once. 





LL teach thee miricles ' '\^ ilk on this heath, 
And say to the neglected flower, " Look up, 
And be thou beautiful ! " If thou hast faith, 
It will obey thy word. 



CHAPTER III. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 



The Camellia : History. — Culture. — Soil. — Temperature. — Potting. 
— Pruning-. — Selection of Varieties. Orange and Lemon Trees : 
Culture. — Growth. — Blooming. — Varieties. — Seedlings. — Budding. 
The Daphne : Pruning. — Potting. — Varieties. — Soil. The Azalea : 

(62) 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 



63 



Description. — Potting. — Culture. — Pruning-, — Varieties. The Heath: 
History. — Soil. — Drainage. — Watering. — Hard and Soft Wooded. 
— Temperature. — Summer Culture. — Ke-potting. — Insects. — Rooting 
Plants. — Varieties. The Cyclamex : Potting. — Soil. — Growth. — 
Seedlings. — Varieties. 




N the selection of our plants, we must be 
much influenced by the extent and loca- 
tion of our accommodations. Some 
plants thrive with less heat and light 
than others. As a general rule, choose 
only green-house plants, avoiding any 
usually catalogued by nurserymen as stove 
plants. Discard ferns and lycopodia. With 
but few exceptions, these perish in the hot, dry, 
dusty air of our rooms. The Wardian case is their proper 
place. Remember it is better to grow one plant well than 
two badly. Because you have roses, geraniums, and 
daphnes, which do well, it is no reason you should also 
grow verbenas, fuchsias, and azaleas ; your space is suffi- 
cient for the first three only ; then be content, and do not 
crowd your plants. 

Now let us first give in detail, with theii' treatment, a 
list of plants suitable for window gardening; then select 
those for peculiar exposures. 



64 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

THE CAMELLIA 

The camellia is a native of China or Japan, from whence 
it was introduced to British gardens about the year 1739. 
The name was given in honor of Father Kamel, a Mora- 
vian priest, whose name. Latinized, became Camellus. 

The plants first introduced were fairly killed by kind- 
ness ; an error not unfrequently repeated in our day with 
newly-discovered plants. They were planted in a stove, 
where the extreme heat soon dried the leaves and parched 
the plant. We find no further mention of the plant till 
1792, when the single red variety (Camellia Japonica) was 
introduced, and flowered profusely in a common green- 
house ; during the next year many plants of this variety 
were obtained from China; next we find mention of the 
double red ; soon after, the fringed double white, and many 
varieties too numerous to mention. Strange to say, the 
single white was not imported till about the year 1820, and 
even now it is not common, though a showy and free- 
blooming variety. 

The camellia, in its native country, is a shrub or small 
tree, though Mr. Fortune mentions specimens of the single 
red as sometimes exceeding twenty feet in height, with 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 65 

trunks of proportionate size. This variety is almost hardy, 
and in the Middle States will often endure the winter ; 
we have known it to survive even our climate, when well 
protected ; all other varieties are more tender, and few will 
bear any severe frost without injury. Most of the kinds in 
our green-houses are derived from Camellia Japonica, though 
other varieties have, we believe, afforded fine seedlings. 

CuLTimE. 
The plants should be grown in light loam, or sandy peat 
and loam, say three parts loam, two parts leaf mould, one 
part sandy peat ; fill the pots one third full of potsherds, 
to secure drainage, which is indispensable ; if the roots of 
the plant become sodden, particularly during the season of 
rest, the health of the plant is gone, and years of care may 
fail to restore its beauty, or remedy the evil caused by a 
little carelessness in watering. When in a growing state, 
you can hardly give too much water, and much good may 
be derived from frequent sprinklings or sjTingings ; this 
operation, however, must never be performed in sunny 
weather. One chief care in the culture of camellias is to 
keep them perfectly clean ; dust upon the foliage not only 
injures the beauty of the plant, but affects its health. The 
6* 



bb PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

plants are injured by too much heat ; some hold that no 
artificial heat should be afforded, unless necessary to keep 
off the frost ; but as we wish our camellias to bloom at a 
season when there is but little else to ornament the green- 
house, it is advisable to force them moderately. 

A safe rule is, never to allow the temperature to fail 
below forty degrees at night, or rise above sixty-five or 
seventy degrees during the day. The plants will thus 
expand the flowers more slowly and naturally, and there 
will be no complaint of dropping buds, imperfect flowers, 
and yellow, sickly foliage. One prime mistake in flori- 
culture is the little attention paid to uniformity of tempera- 
ture ; a plant can no more preserve a healthy state M'hen 
exposed to an atmosphere varying from thirty to one hun- 
dred degrees in a few hours, now dry and now surcharged 
with moisture, than can an animal. The progress of dis- 
ease may be more gradual, but it is sure to show itself, 
and, sooner or later, the death of the plant is the result. 
The plants, when in bloom, should be shaded, as thus the 
flowers remain in perfection much longer. Give the plants 
plenty of air at all times, but during the season of growth 
protect them from chilling draughts, which would cause the 
young leaves to curl and stunt the plant. During the 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 67 

summer, the plants should be placed in a shady, airy- 
situation, out of doors ; allow room enough between the 
plants for free circulation of air ; the practice of setting 
the plants in a mass, under trees, is most objectionable ; 
in the first place, the drip from the branches overhead is 
injurious, and again, the pots become filled with earth- 
worms, which are often difficult to dislodge. 

Another mistake in the culture of camellias is too fre- 
quently re-potting ; while the plant should not be allowed 
to become pot-bound, too much room should not be 
afibrded ; a vigorous plant will not require re-potting 
oftener than every three years ; on this point there is, 
however, some difierence of opinion. It is a popular error 
that the wood of a camellia should not be cut ; on the 
contrary, there is scarcely a hard-wooded plant that bears 
the knife better; the plant is by nature symmetrical in 
growth, and, by judicious pruning, perfect specimens may 
easily be obtained. 

Pruning should be done after blooming, just as the plants 
begin their growth. Not more than one flower bud should 
be allowed on each terminal shoot, if size and perfection 
of flower ai3 required; remove all others before the buds 
begin to swell ; if delayed longer, little advantage is gained. 



68 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

The florists' varieties of the camellia are too numerous 
to mention ; the principal colors are red, white, and rose, 
with all the intermediate shades. The Chinese profess to 
possess a yellow variety, but we believe it has never been 
imported ; we have seen a variety named " yellow," the 
flowers being semi-double, and of a dirty white color. 

The following are all well-proved kinds, and may easily 
be procured of any nurseryman. In buying plants, select 
those of shrubby form, dark green foliage, without any 
places where leaves have been dropped ; look well to see 
that the plant is free from scale, red spider, or mealy bug ; 
if possible, examine the roots, to ascertain if they are in 
a healthy state. 

WJiite. Alba plena, Candidissima, Myrtifolia alba, Imbricata alba, 
Fimbriata, and Oleifera. 

Rose, Rosy Pink, or Carmine. Saccoi, Henri Favre, Imbricata rubra, 
Marchioness of Exeter, Binneyii, Fultonii, Fordii, Floyii, JefFersonii, 
Landrethii, Myrtifolia, Prattii, Wilderii. 

Blush. Lady Hmne's blush, To%vne's blush, Pomponia. 

White, striped with Red or Rose. Feastii, Eclipse, Duchess of Or- 
leans, Mrs. Abby Wilder. 

Red, striped or marked with White. Carswelliana, Chandleri, Donck- 
elaarii. Queen Victoria, Elegans, Elphingstonia. 

Crimson. Bealii, Elata, Eximia, Lowii, Palmer's perfection, Sarah 
Frost, Wardii. 

For Seedlings. Waratah, or Anemoneflora, Tricolor, Donckelaarii, 
Simplex alba, Carnea. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 69 

Could we have but one camellia, we would choose 
Double white or Candidissima, for white ; for blush, Lady 
Hume's blush; for crimson, Sarah Frost. 

All these are peculiarly adapted for the window. 

ORANGE AND LEMON TREES. 

These are favorites for parlor culture, and easily grown. 
Their treatment is almost identical with that required for 
the camellia : the same soil, the same temperature, and the 
same general treatment will produce success in the culture 
of both. 

But they are by no means so clean plants as the camellia, 
being very subject to scale and mealy bug. The only 
remedy is constant washing, both of the stem and leaves, 
with a weak soap-suds warm, and applied with a soft cloth. 
Grown in large tubs they do well in a parlor if kept suffi- 
ciently cool, and in summer succeed well out of doors. 

They are thirsty plants and require much water : good 
drainage is essential. From December to March they will 
make but little growth; then water moderately. About 
the first of March growth begins, succeeded by bloom ; then 
give more water. After the young growth becomes hard- 
ened, they may be set out of doors if the weather is favor- 



70 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

able. A violent wind disfigures the foliage. The young 
fruit will set in April and May, and will continue green all 
summer, coloring the next spring, and holding on the tree 
a long time. At the first approach of frost, the plants 
should be removed to their winter quarters. The lemon 
does not bloom and fruit as early as the orange, and is of 
taller growth and less fitted for the parlor : the blossoms are 
smaller and purplish outside. 

The little dwarf " Otaheite orange " is a very common 
variety, and is always noticeable for its profusion of fruit. 
The flowers are not as fine as the other kinds, though plen- 
tifully produced. The fruit is sweet, but without flavor. 

The Mandarin orange is one of the finest species (dwarf), 
and producing an abundance of fruit of the most exquisite 
flavor. Unfortunately it is not common. 

There are many other larger growing species, all of which 
produce a profusion of white flowers, exquisitely fragrant. 

Among these, the myrtle leaved is conspicuous for its 
shining foliage, and the large shaddock for its enormous 
white flowers. The former is as symmetrical in its growth 
as the latter is tall and ungainly. 

Oranges and lemons raised from seed must attain a large 
size before they will bloom. The better plan is to graft or 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 71 

rather bud the seedling when about a year old. This 
operation is simple, but is best performed in a green-house, 
and it is therefore better to employ some neighboring florist 
to do it. Any variety may be budded on a common seed- 
ling stock. 

Oranges and lemons will live under neglect, but to grow 
and flower them to perfection, attention to details, espe- 
cially of cleanliness, is indispensable. 

THE DAPHNE. 

This plant, of which the varieties are numerous, never 
receives the care and attention its beauty merits. Every 
green-house contains plants of the well-known Daphne 
odorata, sometimes called D. Indica and vulgarly known 
as " Daphne odora." It is to this plant we intend more 
particularly to confine our attention. 

It is a green-house evergreen shrub, attaining the height 
of about four feet, remarkable for its long, dark, glossy, 
green leaves, and its terminal bunches of fragrant, white 
flowers. It is one of the few old-fashioned plants which 
the modern rage for novelties has not driven entirely out of 
cultivation. It has only been thrust into the corners, and 
left to make its merits kno^vn by its beauty and fragrance. 



72 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

It is one of our most popular flowers, and as a window 
plant is unsurpassed, flourishing and blooming in situations 
where most plants would dwindle and die. 

With gardeners it is no favorite, because, as they say, 
it is too straggling, and does not form a neat plant. In 
some respects this assertion is true, for it is impossible to 
bring into good shape a plant of this variety when once 
neglected ; but by beginning with a young, healthy plant, 
much may be done, and fine specimens formed. Let it be 
remembered that the daphne *' breaks" easily. Prune the 
plant to a bare stump, and in a few weeks buds will start 
from all the younger wood ; therefore prune severely ; 
never allow a branch to remain where it is not wanted ; let 
it be as vigorous or luxuriant as it may, and never be afraid 
of pruning for fear of losing the flowers. 

The cultivation of the green-house varieties of this plant 
is almost identical with that of the camellia ; the same tem- 
perature will do for both. 

The plants should have plenty of pot room, and the pots 
be well drained. 

Potting should generally be done in the fall, about the 
time the plants are housed, when as much of the old soil 
should be removed as possible without disturbing the roots. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 73 

The principal varieties are : — 

Daphne odorata, the most valuable variety from its sea- 
son of flowering, which is from December to March, accord- 
ing to the degi-ee of heat given; leaves oblong, lanceolate, 
smooth ; flowers white or pinkish, in terminal heads, pro- 
duced in great profusion. Introduced from China about 
A. D.1770. Propagated by cuttings with great ease. It is 
one of the best parlor plants we know of, and may be 
obtained at any green- house at a very trifling expense. 

D. odorata rubra is a superior, and by no means common 
variety ; buds, red ; flowers, rosy red, with a powerful spicy 
fragrance. It is a somewhat stronger grower than the last. 

There is also a variety with variegated foliage, which is 
no less desirable, though rather scarce. 

Daphne hyhrida is a pretty evergreen shrub, hardy in 
England, but too tender to endure our winters without 
protection ; flowers purple, produced in terminal heads and 
in lateral bunches very freely, and possessing an agreeable 
fragrance. It blooms at aU seasons of the year, but espe- 
cially from January to April. 

The soil should be four parts loam, two of leaf mould, 
and one of sand. 
7 



74 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

THE AZALEA. 

The Azalea Indica, or Chinese Azalea, is of Asiatic origin. 
The varieties are innumerable ; but the most common and 
longest known variety is that from which others are but 
hybrids, Azalea Indica. 

It is a strong growing plant, with long, coarse, evergreen 
leaves, producing in clusters of three or more, at the end of 
the branches red flowers marked with dark spots. This 
plant may be grown in great perfection, and, as well as all 
the varieties, is admirably adapted for a window plant. 
The habit is shrubby, and the flowers are produced in great 
profusion. A, Indica alha has white flowers, and is a fine 
old variety. A. Indica purpurea is a variety with blossoms 
of a light purple color ; a profuse bloomer, and of rapid 
growth. There is also a double variety. A. Indica coccinea 
is bright scarlet. From these all the fine .varieties of the 
green-houses have been produced. 

Tc grow the plants in perfection good drainage is essen- 
tial. Fill the pot one quarter full of broken potsherds, 
then fill the soil to within half an inch of the top ; soil, a 
dark peat three parts, one part of loam, one half part of 
silver sand. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 7o 

Frequent re-potting conduces to the health of the plants. 
As a general rule, re-pot when the roots run among the 
crocks at the bottom of the pot. Do not sift the soil ; 
break it into small pieces. 

Frequent s}Tinging is beneficial, but over-watering must 
be carefully avoided. Give full sunshine to the plant, but 
lay a little moss over the pot if the sun is very hot, to pro- 
tect the roots. 

Keep the plant about the temperature prescribed for 
camellias. 

As soon as the flowers fall growth begins. Give plenty 
of air and sun, for on this growth depends the bloom of the 
next year. It should be short, close, and the flower buds 
be set at the end of each branch. 

Set the plants out of doors in the summer, as prescribed 
for camellias. 

Azaleas may be pruned into any shape. This operation 
should be performed after the flowers have dropped, or after 
the plant has made its season's growth. 

The Azalea is subject to rottenness of the roots, produced 
by a sodden soil, the efiect of over-M'atering. The remedy 
is .simple : re-pot the plant, and Avater moderately. Exces- 
sive drjTiess, the other extreme, produces yellow leaves and 
a general unhealthy appearance. 



76 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

The following varieties are of proved excellence, and very- 
distinct. All will succeed in the house. 

Azalea amwna, a lovely variety ; flowers double purple ; 
produced in great profusion in midwinter. 

Inclica later itia, salmon ; Danielsiana, bright red ; Per- 
reyana, scarlet ; Murreyana, rose ; Inclica alha, white ; 
Purpurea, purple ; Coccinea, red. 

Iveryana, pink and white ; Variegata, rose and white ; 
Gledstanesii, white, striped with red. 

This list might be increased an hundred fold. 

THE ERICA. HEATH. 

All the plants belonging to this genus are of a low, shrub- 
by habit, with fine acicular foliage. None are natives of 
America. The fine varieties of our green-houses, with the 
exception of the common Erica Mediterranean are natives 
of the Cape of Good Hope, whence the gardener's term, 
" Cape Heaths." 

The erica will not thrive unless the soil is adapted to its 
peculiar nature ; this is often very difficult to learn, and 
experience must sometimes be the teacher. The soil to 
obtain is one of a friable nature, full of vegetable fibre. 
We find in an old magazine the best directions we remem- 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 77 

ber to have met in regard to choice of soil. We give them 
entire for the benefit of our readers : — 

" Heaths, like the azalea and rhododendron, make very 
small, hair-like roots ; and Avhere these latter are growing 
naturally, will be found a good locality to collect soil for 
the artificial cultivation of the former. This soil will be 
found full of decaying organic matter. Take up a handful 
of it, and you -will find a mass of thickly grown, fine fibre, 
feeling like a bunch of moss. Examine it, and you will see 
that it is chiefly composed of a black debris of leaves and 
sticks, thickly interwoven with the roots of surrounding 
vegetation. An inch or two only of the surface should 
be taken ; all below that is generally inferior, the organic 
matter in it being too much decomposed. 

" Where this deposit cannot be obtained, a good substitute 
will be found in turves from old pasture, cut thin, collected 
in dry weather, and piled in a heap two or three months 
before using, so that the vegetation in it may be slightly 
decomposed. Both in its chemical and mechanical prop- 
erties such a soil is nearly all that can be wished. In pre- 
paring it, however, it is better to chop it up rather fine, 
securing a proper mechanical texture by the admixture of 
coarse sand, broken charcoal, or even a few pebbles, or 
7* 



78 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

broken potsherds may be used to advantage for keeping the 
soil open, to allow free admission for atmospheric gases ; 
an essential point to be kept in view in the cultivation of 
all plants, more particularly those in pots, for they are then 
entirely dependent on the cultivator for those conditions 
which they receive in their natural habitats. 

*' Such a soil as here recommended, kept sufficiently open 
by any of the above mentioned ingredients, is easily pene- 
trated by air, thereby increasing its temperature and facili- 
tating the decomposition of organic matter, during which 
process various healthful gases are supplied to plants." 

In either of the kinds of soil prepared as directed, heaths 
will do well. The great point to obtain is a loose, porous 
soil; for this reason the soil should always be broken, 
never sifted. 

Another requisite in heath culture, is good drainaga^ 
this cannot be too strongly insisted upon ; Avith the best of 
soil, the plants will suffer if Avater stagnates around the 
roots. 

Fill the pot one fourth full of crocks, and be careful the 
hole at the bottom is kept open. Never place the pot in a 
saucer or vessel of any kind, for all water not absorbed 
must be allowed to drain off. The pots should be clean 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 79 

and free from mould or dirt ; cleanliness is a point too much 
neglected. 

In some sections of our country, mucli difficulty is expe- 
rienced in growing heaths ; the water containing salts in 
solution which are fatal to the plant, and we know nursery- 
men who have altogether abandoned their culture. This 
seems the case in limestone countries, and we have noticed 
that heaths, of the tender varieties, when watered with 
"hard" water, grew sickly and soon died. The best plan 
is to use only rain water, and pursuing this course no diffi- 
culty will be experienced. It is a curious fact, that in its 
native countries, the heath is never found in a soil of which 
the substratum is lime or chalk. In England, heaths are 
always grown apart from other plants ; with us they occupy 
the coolest part of the green-house. As a general rule, 
nothing short of frost is too cold for them, and some 
varieties will bear several degrees of frost without injury. 
In the wild state, they are distributed over a vast range of 
country, which accounts for the different temperatures the 
varieties require ; the degree of cold adapted to each, must 
be the lesson of experience. Among gardeners, heaths are 
termed hard- wooded or soft- wooded ; the former make only 
a short growth each season, for example, E. Gavendesliii ; 



80 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

the latter grow a foot or more, as E. Caffra and others. 
The two kinds requhe somewhat different treatment ; the 
former being far more difficult to manage ; they are, how- 
ever, far more beautiful, some even dazzling from the bril- 
liancy of their flowers. Heaths require plenty of air. If 
crowded, they are subject to mildew; a disease much more 
easily prevented than cured. Air should be given, if pos- 
sible, every day ; but cold draughts should be avoided dur- 
ing the growing season. 

Though heaths are often lost during the winter by grow- 
ing them in too high a temperature, yet the greatest mor- 
tality is caused by the heat of summer. With many it is 
the custom to treat the plants as other hard-wooded plants ; 
to turn them out doors during the summer, under the shade 
of some tree. The consequence is, the pots are often 
exposed to the hot sun, the tender fibrous roots become 
parched, and the plant dies ; or else the drip from the trees 
rots the roots, producing the like result. Our experience 
has shown the best plan to be a different treatment for the 
plants according to their age. Early in June, all young 
plants should be planted out in a bed Mdth a northern 
exposure ; there they will grow luxuriantly during the sum- 
mer. Before the September frosts, re-pot them with care, 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 81 

and winter as old plants. We have found a large bed pre- 
pared for rhododendrons and azaleas the most favorable 
place. It is sheltered from the south by a belt of white 
pines. The soil of prepared peat is suited to the wants of 
the plant, while the large foliage of the rhododendrons 
keeps the soil moist by preventing rapid evaporation. For 
the older plants, we choose a shaded spot, and prepare a 
bed of coal ashes ; slope the bottom to carry off superfluous 
moisture ; plunge the pots in the bed of ashes, and if the bed 
is exposed to the sun for any length of time, shade by an 
awning. Be careful not to crowd the plants ; a free circu- 
lation of air is essential. By this mode, the pots are never 
exposed to the rays of the sun ; the plants receive plenty of 
light without being burned, and by syringing at evening, 
and sprinkling (not pouring) water upon the pots and bed, 
a sufficiency of moisture is secured. Some varieties of the 
soft-wooded class, such as Cafira rubra and alba, Margari- 
tacea, and others, do best planted out in the full sunshine. 
The growth becomes short and stout, and the plants are 
more hardy and less liable to injury. By this course, how- 
ever, all beauty of foliage is lost, for the plants become of a 
rusty brown color, which never disappears till the leaves fall. 
Re-potting should be done whenever the roots become 



82 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

matted or collected at the bottom or sides of the pot; 
examine to see if they are healthy ; if so, give them a 
larger pot ; if not, prune off those which are dead, remove 
the old soil, and pot in the same size, or smaller, as the 
case may require. 

The custom with gardeners is to pot heaths in the spring, 
but the grower must be guided by the state of the plant. 

Insects give but little trouble, where proper regard is 
paid to the plants. 

Mealy-bug is sometimes found ; the best course to pur- 
sue, if the plant is badly infested, is to throw it away, for 
it is almost impossible to remove the insect ; if but slightly 
affected, pick them off, and wash the plant well with warm 
soap-suds ; whale oil soap is preferable. The same rules 
apply when the plants are troubled wdth black or brown 
scale. Erica arhorea is particularly subject to attacks of 
the former, and from the fine, close nature of its foliage, it 
is very difficult to clean. 

We have never known our heaths to be troubled by red 
spider or by aphis. 

In growing ericas, some attention must be paid to prun- 
ing, or rather to pinching; the plants should never be 
allowed to grow tall and spindling ; they should be grown 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 83 

near the glass, and, by frequent turning, prevented from 
becoming one-sided. Some varieties are of symmetrical 
form by nature ; others require much care to control the 
too luxuriant branches. 

Heaths strike freely from cuttings. Take the tops of the 
young shoots, about an inch in length; prepare a pot or 
pan of heath soil ; cover this with silver sand to the depth 
of half an inch ; insert the cuttings about half their length, 
as thickly as you please ; cover them with a glass, and 
frequently wipe the moisture from the inner surface of the 
glass ; keep them slightly moist, and shelter from the direct 
rays of the sun. 

When rooted, pot off the cuttings into small pots filled 
with heath soil, with the addition of a little more sand than 
is used for the old plants ; as soon as the season permits, 
plant them out to make growth. In re-potting plants or 
cuttings, care should be taken never to sink the crown of 
the root lower than it was before ; rather raise than 
sink it. 

There is no plant which makes a greater show, or proves 
more attractive as a specimen, than the erica. In England, 
it is grown in the greatest perfection, some of the plants 
being twelve feet high, and eight feet in thickness. Can a 



84 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

more superb object than such a plant be imagined, when in 
full bloom? 

From over five hundred varieties, we cannot be expected 
to give all that are deserving of cultivation; as before 
remarked, none are destitute of beauty. The periods of 
bloom are from January to November ; indeed, we may 
have heaths in bloom every month in the year. The fol- 
lowing list contains a select variety in colors : — 

White or Light-Flowered. Arborea, Margaritacea, Grandinosa, Bow- 
eana, Jasminiflora, Conferta, Vestita alba, Odorata, Ventricosa, Pellu- 
cida, Wilmoriana, CafFra alba. 

Red Flowers. Gracilis, Ignescens, Mediterranea, Caffra rubra. 

Scarlet or Crimson. Ardens, Cerinthoides, Hartnelli, Splendens, 
Coccinea, Vestita fulgida, Tricolor. 

Purple Flowers. Araosna, Mammosa, Melanthera mutabilis, Pro- 
pendens tubiflora. 

Lilac. Baccans, Suavolens. 

Yellow. Cavendishii, Depressa, Denticulata. 

Green-Flowered. Gelida, Veridiflora, Viridis. 

For window culture, the varieties succeeding best are 
Caffra rubra and alba, Margaritacea, Arborea, and Medi- 
terranea. 

We have been thus diffuse in treating of this plant, 
because it is a general favorite, yet never seen in good 
condition in the parlor. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 85 

The plant is very hardy, yet impatient of the least neg- 
lect. A single day's omission to water, or a drenching, 
with poor drainage, will kill the plant; yet it will lan- 
guish for months, and all your care will fail to restore it. 
If the hair-like roots once become parched or sodden, the 
plant will die. 

We do not recommend it for a window plant, yet its 
beauty is worth all the care required ; and will not some 
be fired by ambition to make the heath a window plant ? 

THE CYCLAMEN. 

This pretty flower is too little known. It is a native of 
Europe and Asia, some varieties being very abundant in 
Switzerland and Italy, and is to be found in almost every 
green-house. It is of the easiest culture. Pot about the 
latter part of November, in a rich loam, with a dash of 
silver sand ; an addition of about a spoonful of the old soot 
from a flue will increase the size and brilliancy of the 
flowers. It must be well incorporated with the soil. Bits 
of charcoal, broken fine, serve the same purpose. Place 
the croAvn of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. 
The size of the pot must be determined by the size of the 
bulb ; as a general rule, cyclamen do not require large pots. 
8 



86 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

Good drainage is indispensable. Keep the plants cool till 
the leaves are well grown, always keeping them near the 
glass. When the flower buds begin to rise on the foot 
stalks, remove to a sunny shelf, where they will soon 
show bloom. By shading, the duration of the flowers is 
prolonged. When the bloom is past, gradually withhold 
water ; the leaves will turn yellow, and the plants should 
be kept dry, in a state of rest, all summer. Do not allow 
the plants to ripen seed (which they do freely) unless you 
desire seedlings, to increase your stock. The seed germi- 
nates easily, sown in rich loam, and seedlings bloom the 
third year. Some find difficulty in preventing the shrivel- 
ling of the bulbs during the summer. Our best cultivators, 
to prevent this, bury the bulbs during the summer in the 
open border ; take them up about the middle of September, 
when they are found fresh, plump, and in good condition 
for a start. There is one risk, however, in this method : 
mice are very fond of the bulbs, and sometimes commit 
great havoc. There is shown in this plant a curious pro- 
vision of Nature : no sooner has the flower faded, than the 
stem begins to curl up, and buries the seed capsule in the 
ground, at the root of the plant ; this is designed to pro- 
tect the seed from birds, and to sow it in a congenial soil. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 



87 



Good-sized, blooming bulbs may be obtained at any 
green-house, for from fifty cents to one dollar each for the 
more common varieties. This bulb is particularly adapted 
for window culture, and will give more flowers, with less 
trouble, and occupying less space, than any flower we are 
acquainted with. The more common varieties are G. Per- 
sicuin, white, tipped with rich, rosy purple ; C. Persicum 
album, pure white ; C. punctatum, resembling Persicum. 
All these flower from January to March. C. Europceum, 
pinkish purple ; C. Europceum album, pure white ; G. 
hederafolmm, very large, rosy purple, a splendid variety. 
All these bloom from October to January. 




Brit, it gems of earth in which perchance we 
What Eden was, what Paradise may be. 



CHAPTER IV. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 



The Geranium. The Pelargoniuji : History. — Culture. — Soil. — Pot- 
ting'. — Winter Treatment. — Varieties. The Verbena : History. — 
Culture. — Cuttings. — Summer Culture. — Potting for Winter. — Wa- 
tering'. — Soil. — Seedlings. — Properties of a good Verbena. — Window 
Culture. — Varieties. The Heliotrope: History. — Culture. — Prun- 
ing.— Varieties. The Salvia, OR Mexican Sage : Summer Culture. 

(88) 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 



89 



—Winter Culture. — Varieties. The Trop^.olum, or Nasturtium : 
Varieties. — Soil. — Culture. — Varieties of the small Nasturtium. — Win- 
dow Culture. 

THE GERANIUM. 

NDER, this head, we propose to treat 
of the plants usually known, in com- 
mon parlance, as Geraniums, includ- 
ing both those horticulturally and 
botanically known as such, and Pelar- 
goniums. Between these there are 
many minute and fanciful distinc- 
tions ; the principal seems to be, the 
geranium has no nectary ; the pelar- 
gonium has a nectary adhering to the 
peduncle. For window gardening, their treatment must 
be the same. 

For the pelargoniums, we are chiefly indebted to the 
Cape of Good Hope ; the geranium is found, in some of its 
varieties, in Asia, Europe, and America ; two of the family, 
our "wild geraniums," being familiar to us all as among 
the wild flowers of spring. 

The scarlet, or horse-shoe geranium, so called from the 
color of its flowers, and the dark marking of its leaves, is 
a very common and popular window plant. The rose, oak, 
8*' 




90 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

and nutmeg geraniums are commonly grown for their fra- 
grant leaves, and for their hardiness, as they can endure 
more hard usage than most plants. 

The general fault in geranium culture is, crowding. The 
plants need light and air on all sides, and unless this is 
afforded they soon become one-sided, long-drawn, and strag- 
gling, with but few leaves, and these in a tuft at the end. 
The blossoms are small and few, and the whole plant pre- 
sents a picture of vegetation under difficulties. 

The fine varieties of pelargonium, called " Fancies " by 
florists, it is useless to attempt to grow to any perfection in 
the house. They need constant care ; and the rules for 
growing them as specimens, laid down by English florists, 
are sufficiently confusing and contradictory to involve the 
amateur in a maze of difficulty. 

Light, air, and cleanliness are the three primary rules for 
growing geraniums. The horse-shoe and high-scented vari- 
eties are not troubled by insects. The pelargoniums (large- 
flowered geraniums), require constant attention to keep 
them free from the green fly, which increases upon them 
with wonderful rapidity. If the weather is warm, and the 
plants at all affected by the fly, they should be smoked once 
in ten days, and frequently syringed. Surely the beauty of 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 91 

the flowers will compensate for any trouble. To prevent 
" drawing," that is, the growing of the plants towards the 
light, all geraniums should be frequently turned, which will 
give a well-proportioned plant. If the plants grow too tall, 
pinch out the top ; all the axillary buds will then break 
into lateral branches. Again, if the side branches become 
too close, prune them out fearlessly. The geranium breaks 
easily, and you need never be afraid of killing the plant, 
even if you prune it down to a bare stump. 

Soil. 

Pelargoniums and geraniums require a strong soil; that 
is, good sound loam, such as will grow melons. The top 
of a pasture will answer well. Let it be carted home and 
laid up in a long ridge, so as to expose as large a surface to 
the air as possible. Keep it clear of weeds, and let it be 
turned over every little while. To two parts of this loam, 
add one part of two-year-old cow dung, well turned over. 
Old hot-bed dung will do nearly, but not quite as well. 
Then add about one part of river sand and bits of charcoal, 
mixed. Let all these ingredients be kept in separate heaps 
till wanted for potting, then mix them in the above propor- 
tions, and use them moderately dry. This compost should 



92 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

be used to bloom and grow the plants in. For the winter 
season, use a small quantity of leaf mould instead of dung. 
Fresh soil is always to be preferred, for old soil is apt to 
become cloddy and sour. 

Potting. 

All being ready, put the drainage in a suitable sized pot. 
Place first a suitable crock, or a large oyster shell over the 
hole ; then lay a few large crocks upon that, and smaller 
upon those, so that the drainage may occupy about three 
fourths of an inch. Place a thin layer of moss upon the 
drainage, and upon that a sprinkling of soot or charcoal 
dust; after that a thin layer of the rougher parts of the 
compost, and finally a layer of soil. Then turn the plant 
out of the old pot, pick out the old drainage, and loosen 
part of the old roots, spreading them over the new soil as 
much as possible. Then see that the collar of the roots is 
just below the rim of the pot, and fill in around the ball 
with the fresh soil, pressing it down gently as it is put in. 
When the pot is full, give it a smart stroke or two upon the 
bench to settle the soil; level it neatly, leaving it about 
half an inch below the rim of the pot. This finishes the 
potting. Then give a good watering of tepid water. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 93 

For four or five weeks, while new roots are running into 
the fresh soil, they will not need a large supply of water ; 
but when the roots reach the sides of the pots, and the 
leaves and shoots are advancing in growth, then water will 
be required in abundance. 

They should never be allowed to flag. 

After a hot, sunny day, let the plants, in addition to the 
water at the roots, have a gentle syringing. Exercise dis- 
cretion, however, on this point. 

The geranium is a spring and summer blooming plant. 
It is very difficult to obtain a flower from December to 
April ; therefore, during the winter it should be kept cool, 
and moderately dry. 

About the first of February re-pot the plants, give more 
heat, sun, and water, and your plants will bloom profusely 
in May. 

The varieties grown only for their leaves may have more 
generous culture during the winter months. 

Varieties. 

Ivy-leaved geranium (P. lateripes), is a pretty trailing 
species, with ivy-shaped leaves and purple flowers in the 
summer. There is also a variety with white flowers. It is 



94 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

a pretty window plant, and always does well. It needs 
plenty of light, sun, and generous culture. 

The varieties of horse-shoe geraniums (P. zonale hyhrids)^ 
are all good window flowers, and will often bloom in winter. 
The following are the best old varieties : — 

Scarlet. Dazzle, Tom Thumb, Defiance. 

Cerise. Cerise unique. 

Pink. Rosa mundi. 

White. Boule de Neige, Lady Turner. 

Variegated Leaved. Flower of the Day, Golden Chain, Alma, Bijou. 

These latter varieties need a green-house to develop the 
rich colors of the foliage, yet they do well as bedding plants 
in the summer. 

P. graveolens is the common rose geranium. 

THE VERBENA. 

There are few plants which lend more beauty to the 
flower garden in summer, or enliven the green-house in 
the winter and early spring months in a greater degree, than 
the verbena. From the variety of colors, the rapidity of 
propagation, the little care needed to bloom the plant in per- 
fection, and the abundance of blossoms, it is, and always 
must remain, a universal favorite. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 95 

In addition to these advantages, the facility with which 
new varieties are raised from seed, render it a favorite with 
the amateur ; and in no collection do we fail to find the 
verbena, in some of its many varieties. 

It is a difficult task to prescribe the culture of a plant so 
w^eU known, and which will grow and flourish under such a 
variety of circumstances, and in such different situations. 
As every one has grown verbenas, each has his own peculiar 
mode of treatment, if, indeed, a flower requiring so little 
care can be said to have peculiar treatment. 

In writing of a plant, from which seedlings are produced 
with such ease, and which sports into such an infinite 
variety of colors and shades, we cannot be too careful in 
expressing a decided opinion. Every year new seedlings 
are " brought out," and latterly the varieties have so mul- 
tiplied that it is very difficult to choose those really worthy 
of cultivation : the favorite of this spring may, after a year's 
trial, be cast aside as worthless, for it may not be found 
worthy of general cultivation, or better varieties may have 
been originated. 

Our verbena was introduced into England from Buenos 
Ayres, where it is indigenous, by Mr. Hugh Gumming, an 
ardent lover of nature, about the year 1825. 



yb PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

The first, and for a long time the only variety cultivated, 
was Verbena melindres, or chamcedrifoUa ; but it now 
appears lost among the new and superior kinds which have 
been raised from seed. In form, it has been repeatedly 
excelled, but its creeping habit and abundance of bloom 
must always recommend it, though we doubt if at the 
present lime it can be obtained at any of our green-houses, 
and probably few of our younger cultivators have ever seen 
this once popular variety. The color is scarlet, and though 
perhaps equalled, can never be excelled. Many other 
earlier varieties might be mentioned, but, although interest- 
ing, it would too much extend the limits of this article. 

Verbena muUifida, with lilac purple flowers, was intro- 
duced from Peru ; Verbena Tioeediana, with rose crimson 
flowers, from Brazil ; and from these, and a few other 
varieties and seedlings, have sprung all the numerous 
varieties, many hundred in number, which may be found in 
extensive collections. The credit of introducing this plant 
into the United States belongs to Robert Buist, of Phila- 
delphia. About the year 1835, from seed received from 
Buenos AjTes, he raised the first white, pink, and crimson 
verbenas. The plant soon became generally known, and 
was every where a favorite ; in the floral world it caused 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 97 

quite an excitement, and the original kinds were soon sur- 
passed, in every respect, by newer seminal varieties. 

The culture of the verbena is very simple. The plants 
will bloom with very little care, but to grow them in perfec- 
tion requires attention ; of thousands of plants of any size, 
scarcely one is a fine specimen. Let us, beginning in early 
spring, trace the plant, as generally grown, and then see 
how much a little care might increase its beauty. 

About the first of February, cuttings of the young shoots 
are taken from old plants : in a sandy loam, a few weeks, 
and sometimes a few days, will suffice to root them ; they 
are then potted off into thumb pots, and, if placed near the 
glass, will soon show a terminal flower. As soon as the 
season is sufficiently advanced, these young plants are bed- 
ded out, and, in favorable seasons, soon form a conspicuous 
feature in the flower garden, continuing to bloom till long 
after the early frosts. About the first or middle of Septem- 
ber, the gardener begins to re-pot his plants for winter, and 
the common practice is tp take a runner, which has rooted 
well at a joint, and, after suitable pruning, to pot it for 
winter blooming and propagation. Others, again, take up 
the old roots, while others, by sinking pots in their verbena 
bed, about midsummer, allowed the runners to root directly 
9 



98 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

in the pots ; the pots being taken up, and the connection 
with the mother plant cut, the young plant receives no 
injury or check. But this mode is very objectionable, for 
two reasons : first, the loam in the pots is apt to become 
sour and sodden; and again, earthworms often enter the 
pots, and prove injurious during the winter. The plants 
are housed, and, for a long time, produce no flowers, and 
are any thing but ornamental. Soon after the new year, 
they begin to grow vigorously, but are allowed to trail care- 
lessly over the staging, or droop from some hanging shelf. 
No care or attention is bestowed upon them, except to give 
the daily supply of water. 

The days grow towards spring. Cuttings are again taken 
off ; the same process is repeated year after year ; and thus 
one of our loveliest flowers, which, with a little care, might 
be one of the greatest attractions and ornaments of our 
green-houses, is never seen in perfection, except in the 
garden. 

That this is the fact, is to be deplored ; yet the remedy 
is simple. By beginning about midsummer, we may have 
verbenas in bloom as well during the winter as the spring 
months. About the first of August, or earlier, cuttings 
should be taken from desirable varieties. In a fortnight 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 99 

they will be ready to transplant. Pot them in thumb pots, 
and re-pot as soon as the roots touch the sides of the pot. 
Keep them in vigorous growth by affording plenty of light 
and au', being careful they never suffer from want of water. 
Pinch off the leading shoots, to cause all axillary buds to 
break, and in no case allow them to bloom. Train the 
plant in any form desired, but be careful not to permit it to 
grow too straggling. When other plants are housed, 
remove your verbenas to some warm shelf, where they may 
have the morning sun, and on every favorable day give 
plenty of air, and fumigate well to destroy green aphis. 
Your plants will soon be in luxuriant bloom, long before 
those potted in the common way have shown a bud, and 
will continue to afford an abundance of flowers until late in 
the spring. To groAV verbenas well in the house in summer 
is far easier. They may be bloomed in pots of any size, 
and trained in almost any form, the only requisites being 
plenty of light and air, careful pruning, and means to 
destroy aphis and keep off mildew. 

One great fault in growing verbenas is the practice of 
watering too copiously. The plant, as originally found, 
grows on dry hills ; and damp not only produces mildew, 
but rots the roots, and thus destroys or produces disease in 
the plant. 



100 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

The proper soil for verbenas, is two parts of loam, two of 
leaf mould, with an admixture of sand, and in this we have 
found them grow and bloom luxuriantly. 

Many verbenas, which for green-house blooming are 
unsurpassed, are worthless for bedding purposes ; the petal 
of the flower being too thin, or the color fading or changing. 
Again, some bloom well in winter, others far better in sum- 
mer ; some form large masses and flower well, others are of 
rambling growth and poor bloomers ; some of creeping, 
others of more upright habit ; while a few possess every 
desirable quality ; and in making a selection, all these prop- 
erties are to be considered. 

We have said that seedlings were produced with great 
ease. The verbena seeds well where the plants have not 
been too long propagated by cuttings. A long- continued 
propagation by cuttings seems to diminish the power of the 
plants to produce seed, and, as a general rule, the further 
removed a plant is from a seedling, the less the chance of 
its perfecting good seed. The seeds may be sown in a hot- 
bed or green-house, early in spring, and the plants, when 
about an inch and a half high, pricked out in the border ; 
it is a good plan to pinch out the leading shoot, as thus the 
plants branch and become stronger; the plants grow 
rapidly, and soon show bloom. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 101 

But to raise a seedling is one thing, to raise a fine seed- 
ling, a far different. Of many hundred raised in the course 
of the last few years, by the writer, not more than half a 
dozen have been worthy of preservation, and only one (and 
that produced by chance) really a first-class flower. 

In raising seed, much may be done to insure its quality 
by planting fine varieties together, and allowing them to 
intertwine, then gathering the seed from these plants. No 
rule can be laid down to obtain any desired color, for the 
seedlings sport infinitely. We can only approximate 
towards definite results ; thus, if we plant Annie (white) 
and liobinson's Defiance (red) together, the seedling will be 
likely to be pink. 

The flowers of the verbena are of every color and shade, 
except light blue, which color has never been obtained. A 
good yellow verbena has not yet been produced. There is 
a miserable variety, with a small truss of dirty yellow 
flowers. The writer, some years since, by a curious process 
of watering and fertilization with a white verbena, obtained 
a seedling, which proved, on blooming, to be of a light straw 
color ; the plant was weak and sickly, and died before cut- 
tings could be taken. Since that time he has tried the 
experiment often, but never with any successful result. 
9* 



102 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

The qualities of a first-class verbena, as laid down by 
florists, are : roundness of flower, without indenture, notch, 
or serrature ; petals thick, flat, bright and smooth ; the 
plant should be compact, with short, strong joints, either 
distinctly of a shrubby habit, or a close, ground creeper or 
climber ; the trusses of bloom, compact, standing out from 
the foliage, the flowers meeting, but not crowding each 
other; the foliage should be short, broad, bright, and 
enough to hide the stalk ; in the eyed and striped varieties, 
the colors should be well deflned and lasting, never running 
into each other, or changing in the sun. 

As a window plant, there is nothing that will give more 
bloom than a verbena. Let it be trained on a trellis, and 
give it all the sun possible ; the more sun, the more bloom. 
Pinch the shoots, to prevent its becoming too rambling, and 
give air enough, and your work is done. 

The production of seedlings, as above directed, is a very 
pretty amusement, and very simple. Seedlings will bloom 
in three months, from the seed. 

It only remains for us to describe some of the best vari- 
eties, both old and new. Those called flrst-class flowers, 
can be recommended for general culture, while many others, 
though very distinct and beautiful, are valuable only in a 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 103 

large collection, or interesting to the amateur. We have 
not noticed seedlings, unless they have been proved and 
shown to be worthy of general culture. 

Giant of Battles. Flower and truss large ; habit 
good ; foliage large ; color dark scarlet, with purplish eye. 
A good variety. 

Dred. Flower medium ; habit weak ; a good bloomer, 
but of a dull purplish lake color. Pretty for variety. 

Admiral Dundas. Foliage and habit good ; color vel- 
vety scarlet. Fine. 

General Simpson. A magnificent variety ; color scarlet, 
crimson ; flower and truss very large ; habit very strong ; 
by far the best of its color. No garden should be with- 
out it. 

Celestial. A strong growing variety, the leaves often 
two inches across ; truss large, forming a fine head ; color 
pink, with darker eye ; very fine. 

Evening Star. Color dark crimson, with well-defined 
white eye ; growth small ; very fine in the house, and one 
of the best of the eyed varieties for the border. 

Rosy Gem. A lovely verbena; flower and foliage of 
medium size ; color rosy lake, with light eye ; fine in the 
house, but worthless for open culture. . 



104 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

Brilliant de Vaise. Growth fine ; color crimson scar- 
let ; a first-class variety ; succeeds equally well in the house 
and garden, though a late bloomer. 

Climax. Light, with dark eye ; good. 

Chauvieki. Of weak habit; color dazzling crimson, 
with dark eye ; valuable in a collection. 

Defiance (Robinson's). A fine old variety, always 
popular, and one of the best for bedding ; growth strong ; 
color dazzling red. 

Defiance (Kurtz's). Of large, strong growth ; color 
light pink, shading to a dark eye ; truss very large and flat ; 
fine. 

Etoile de Venus. Similar to the last, but larger and 
finer. 

Annie. Habit strong; foliage medium; color pure 
white ; truss large, flat, single blooms very large ; in some 
situations in the garden it has been very poor, in others 
very good ; a damp, peaty soil has flowered it in perfection, 
while in a dry or sandy place the trusses have been small, 
the growth weak, and the flowers inclined to change to pink. 
In the green-house, for Avinter flowering, it is very superior, 
being a constant bloomer; a well-grown plant Avill give 
more bloom than two of any other variety ; superior. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 105 

Imperatkice Elizabeth. A pretty little striped variety, 
which should be in every collection ; truss flat and small ; 
foliage cut and fine ; habit creeping ; very pretty for a speci- 
men plant, and a free grower in the garden. 

Dedham Belle. A good pink, free-flowering variety. 

Iphigene. Purple, with dark eye; a superior old 
variety. 

St. Margaket. An old popular variety ; color crimson 
scarlet ; truss and flower good ; always a free bloomer, and 
well worthy of cultivation. 

Gloey or America. A first-class verbena for the gar- 
den ; always a mass of bloom ; crimson. 

Lord Raglan (Banks's). Dark crimson, with dark eye ; 
a fine flower ; but the plant is of slow growth, and a poor 
bloomer. 

Lord Raglan (De Fosse's). Light pearl color; pecu- 
liar ; good for spring blooming. 

Madeline Parfume. Like the last; fine for the garden, 
but useless in the green-house. 

Mrs. Archer Clive. A first-class variety; color rich 
carmine, shading to dark eye ; equally fine for green-house 
or open culture. 

Mrs. Holeord. A fine white ; growth strong ; very 



106 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

fine for garden blooming, but very late in the green-house ; 
superior. 

Striped Eclipse. An old variety, of very rambling 
habit, very good, but now little cultivated. 

Standard Bearer. Rich plum color, with white eye ; 
a very desirable and beautiful variety. 

Vicomptesse Emelyn. Color white, shading to dark ; 
well-defined eye ; a free flowerer ; by far the finest of its 
class ; does not propagate easily. 

Jenny Lind. A pretty white and purple-eyed variety. 

Verbenas may be grown to advantage in the garden, 
either in masses, as single plants, or upon rock-work ; many 
pretty efiects may be produced by a careful arrangement of 
colors ; they are also well adapted for hanging pots and for 
vases, in which they will bloom profusely. 

There is no flower which, if properly grown, will better 
repay the care required, and none which will show so well 
with but little attention, and we trust that these few 
remarks may lead to a more careful cultivation of this beau- 
tiful plant. 

THE HELIOTROPE. 

This plant is always admired for its fragrance, and will 
ever be a favorite for window culture. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 107 

It is a native of Peru, and has been in our gardens since 
the year 1757. 

The details of culture are similar to those prescribed for 
the verbena ; the soil should be strong loam, with a little 
sand and manure. 

The heliotrope is seldom grown as well as it should be. 
It should have frequent re-pottings, and be allowed to grow 
large. We have seen them in parlors, in large tubs on 
wheels, and eight feet high. Such plants are in themselves 
bouquets of beauty, being always covered wdth flowers. 
Train the main stems of the plant to a trellis, and let the 
branches droop naturally, and as they will gracefully. The 
plant bears the knife well, and breaks freely, so it can be 
trained into any shape. 

The common variety is H. corymhosum, then the oldest, 
H. Peruvianwn ; H. Volterianum is a fine dark variety, 
but not so strong growing. 

Florists' catalogues contain many varieties, but the above 
are the best for general culture. 

THE SALVIA. 

This plant is only valuable as a window plant in summer 
and early autumn. The chief variety cultivated is the Scarlet 



108 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

Mexican Sage {S. sjjlendens), mtrodnced from Mexico about 
forty years ago. It is a rank growing shrub, with long, 
jointed stalks, crowned with rich, scarlet flowers. The best 
way to grow it is to set the plant in rich soil in the garden 
in spring. It will grow vigorously. About the last of 
September pot it (it transplants easily), shade it for a few 
days, then remove it to a sunny window, M'here it will 
delight you with its brilliant blossoms for two months. 
Then keep it cool until spring, and repeat the operation 
until the plant becomes so large as to be unmanageable ; 
then spring cuttings must be taken off and rooted. 

The proper soil is, three parts loam, one leaf mould, 
one manure, with a sprinkling of sand. 

Salvia pate?is is an exquisite blue floM^ered variety. It 
blooms well in the garden in summer, and the fleshy roots 
may be preserved like a dahlia through the winter. 

There are many other fine varieties. 

THE TROP^OLUM. 

This flower, from its earliest discovery and introduction, 
has been a popular favorite. As year by year newer varieties 
have been discovered, or finer seedlings raised from old 
favorites, it has steadily advanced in favor, till now, the 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 109 

rich man's choicest green-house and the poor man's garden 
alike boast some of the varieties of this beautiful plant. In 
the limits of a short article, like the present, it will be 
impossible, of course, to give a detailed description, or even 
to mention all the varieties ; many are only desirable in a 
collection, being of inferior beauty ; while others are rare, 
or of difficult, culture, and therefore found only in the green- 
houses of amateurs. 

The different varieties of tropgeolum divide themselves 
into three distinct classes. First, those with bulbous, or 
rather tuberous roots, such as Tropceolum azureum and 
others. Second, those with large, round leaves, and large 
showy, often coarse, flowers, as the various varieties of T^^o- 
pceolum majus. Third, those with small, delicate, regu- 
larly-formed flowers, with smaller leaves, and more of climb- 
ing rather than trailing habit, such as T. Lohhianum. 
"We are aware that this division is imperfect; that some 
varieties partake of the characteristics of more than one 
class, and that others are with difficulty included in any of 
the three ; and to any one acquainted with all the different 
varieties, the difficulty of classification will be at once 
apparent. We shall, therefore, only attempt this general 
division ; leaving a particular description to be given when 
10 



110 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

we treat of each variety. The soil to be used in the culture 
of the tropseolum is, for the bulbous varieties, leaf-mould 
and peat, with an admixture of fine sand ; for the other 
classes, an addition of more sand is to be advised, as care 
must be taken not to enrich the soil too highly, for in a rich 
soil, with plenty of room to develop the roots, the plants are 
apt to run all to leaves. This may be prevented in two 
ways, either by giving a poor soil, or by allowing the roots 
to become " pot-bound," and nourishing the plant by slight 
waterings of liquid manure ; they generally fail to give 
satisfaction if the soil is close, heavy, and binding. All 
the varieties, we believe, are readily propagated by cuttings, 
and many produce seed in abundance. Some succeed better 
if allowed to trail on the ground ; others are so delicate as 
to need constant attention and careful training. Some are 
hardy in England, though to our knowledge none have ever 
been able to survive our severe winters in the open ground, 
or protected in frames. All the varieties are of the most 
rapid growth, and are mostly free flowerers ; none are desti- 
tute of some beauty, while the greater number are remark- 
able for the combinations of dazzling colors which they 
afford. The prevailing color is yellow in its different 
shades ; next, red ; then dark ; and lastly, a most extraor- 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. Ill 

dinary fact, which puzzled the botanists, a beautiful blue. 
It had been asserted and argued, with great show of reason, 
that a flower, of which all the known varieties, or the gen- 
eral types, were of red, yellow, or cognate colors, could, by 
no possibility, be found related to a plant with blue flowers, 
or could there be a blue flowering plant in the same class. 
The discovery of a blue tropseolum, in 1844, completely 
refuted this theory. In the treatment of the tropseolum, it 
is essential for the good health of the plants that they 
should enjoy plenty of light and air ; without this, they can- 
not fail to become sickly or unsightly from faded leaves and 
small flowers. A supply of water should be given with the 
sjTinge, overhead, occasionally, which will conduce to the 
vigor of the plant, and destroy the red spider, which some- 
times attacks the leaves. The plant, in all its varieties, is 
remarkably free from disease or insects ; we have occasion- 
ally had the more delicate varieties troubled by gi'een fly, 
and by mealy bug, but very little care will prevent this. 
The chief danger seems to lie in the decaying of the roots 
by over-watering when in growth, or by not withholding 
water when they are in a state of rest. These remarks, of 
course, apply only to the bulbous varieties. Sometimes we 
have known the roots of the summer-blooming varieties to 



112 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

be attacked by the root aphis, but this is unfrequent. The 
foliage is of too fiery a taste to be subject to the attacks of 
insects. 

With these few remarks we will proceed to the descrip- 
tion of the different varieties, noting any peculiarity in the 
habits of each, or any peculiar mode of culture which may 
be best adapted to its nature. 

The oldest and best known variety is Tkop^olum majijs, 
the common nasturtium of our gardens — a native of Peru, 
but very early introduced. This occurs in a variety of 
colors, and under a variety of names. The colors are 
chiefly red, yellow, very dark, and all the intermediate 
shades ; or, again, red upon yellow in spots, shadings, 
stripes, or bands, or yellow upon red or dark ground. 
Scarce two flowers, unless self-colored, will be found alike, 
and there is no prettier sight than a flower bed filled with 
this variety, the various colored flowers contrasting finely 
with the large round leaves. At any seed store, varieties 
may be obtained ; and by a little care in planting the seeds, 
a beautiful efi*ect may be produced. This species is of the 
easiest culture, and will grow almost without care ; it is 
well adapted for covering rock-work, or any unsightly spot, 
producing from the latter part of June until killed by the 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 113 

frost, a constant succession of brilliant flowers and orna- 
mental foliage. All the varieties of this species are annual, 
and are propagated either by seeds, which are freely pro- 
duced, or by cuttings of half-ripened wood, which root freely 
in sand. 

Tiiop^i:oLUM MAJus ATKosANGTJixEUM is Only a very fine 
variety, as its name implies, of the above. It was intro- 
duced into England as early as the year 1684. The 
requii'ed soil is light and rich ; it flowers freely ; increased 
by seeds and cuttings. 

It woidd be useless to attempt a description of the 
varieties of Tropcwlum majus ; so constantly do they 
change, that each year, as newer seedlings are produced, 
the older are forgotten and lost. All are well worthy of 
cultivation, and some of the varieties should be in every 
garden. We have seen a double variety, but it was evi- 
dently a mere sport, which Avas only propagated and pre- 
served as a curiosity in a collection ; the colors were con- 
fused, and the blossom destitute of beauty. 

We pass now to the varieties of Tropceolum minus, being 

those comprised in our last class, and seemingly only 

reduced specimens of Trojpceolum majus. We have seen it 

stated that this variety was introduced before Tropceolum 

10* 



114 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

majus, but we believe the best authorities agree on the 
latter being the oldest known variety. Be this as it may, 
both were known in Europe at a very early period. The 
plants of Tropceolicm minus, and its varieties, may always 
be distinguished from those of Tropceolum majus, and its 
varieties, by the leaves ; in the former, the nerves of the 
leaves always end in a point, which is never the case with 
those of the latter. 

Teop^olum Lobbianum, sometimes called T. peltopho- 
rmn. One of the very finest ; first collected by Mr. Lobb, 
in Columbia. A rampant grower, and free flowerer in the 
green-house ; color of flowers, orange scarlet. The tem- 
perature of the house to bloom it well, should be kept 
about fifty degrees ; a slight watering of liquid manure should 
occasionally be given. It does not succeed well with us in 
the open border ; our summers are too short, and the plants 
are apt to be nipped by the frost just as they are fully set 
with flower buds ; it strikes freely from cuttings, and pro- 
duces seed sparingly. Most of our fine, new varieties are 
probably hybrids between this and the following. 

Teop^olum PTJLCHEKiiiMUM. Like the last, a rampant 
grower ; color of flowers, bright yellow, with starry rays of 
orange scarlet at the base of the petal ; a free flowerer in 
the green-house. Culture like the last. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 115 

TEOPiEOLUM Smithii. A brilliant red variety, a native 
of the high mountains of Columbia ; treat as T. majus ; 
will bloom well in the open border. 

Trop.i:oltjm Randii. A very fine seedling of Mr. 
Joseph Breck's ; a very vigorous grower ; the writer has, in 
one summer, had one side of a large green-house covered by 
a small plant. This variety has the desirable property of 
blooming equally weU. as a border plant in the summer and 
in the green-house in winter. The color of the flower is 
brilliant yellow ; the base of each petal marked with a 
round black spot ; the flowers are often veined with purplish 
red, sometimes very deeply, and, from a large plant, often 
dozens of blossoms, all of difl'erent shades, may be gathered; 
this is particularly the case in the green-house ; in the bor- 
der, the colors are more constant. This is probably from 
its abundant flowers and free habit, the most popular 
variety of its color, among gardeners for bouquet purposes, 
and, though of comparatively recent introduction, is very 
widely disseminated. Propagated by cuttings ; produces 
seed sparingly. 

Trop^olijm perigrin-iim, adtjnciim, or Ca^^ariexse, 
commonly known as canary-bird flower. A very lovely and 
popular variety ; grows about ter feet high, and blooms well 



116 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

if the soil is not too rich. It is commonly cultivated as a 
summer border plant, but will bloom well in the green- 
house. To this end, plants should be struck during the 
summer, and grown with plenty of light and air ; let the 
soil be loam, and well rotted manure, with a little sand ; 
do not give the roots too much pot room, and water occa- 
sionally with liquid manure. Plants may also be raised 
from seed, but they flower less freely than those struck from 
cuttings. This lovely variety is too well known to need 
description. 

We have been thus diffuse in treating of this plant, 
because it is the best climbing window plant we have. 
Give it sun, and it will be a mass of bloom all winter. A 
pretty way is to train it up the side and across the window 
on strings. Do not, however, give it a very large pot, or it 
will all run to leaves. It should also have a sandy soil. 





All Eden bright, 
With these, her holj- offspring, creations of the light; 
As though some gentle angol, commissioned love to bear, 
Had wandered o'er the greensward, and left her footprints 
there. 



CHAPTER V. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, CONTINUED. 



KosES. China Rose: History. — Description. — Soil. — Pruning-. — Wa- 
tering. — Varieties. Tea Rose : History. — Culture. — Varieties. 
Bourbon Roses: History.— Culture.— Varieties. Pinks: Indian 
Pink. — Carnation.— DiiFerence between Carnation and Picotee.— Classes. 
— Soil. — Potting. — Care of Flowers. — Culture out of doors. — Prop- 

(117) 



118 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

agation. — Layers. — Pipings. — List of Carnations and Picotees. Fuch- 
sias : History. — Growth. — How to direct it. — Wintering. — Soil. — 

if 
Varieties. 

I N continuing our list of plants adapt- 
ed for window gardening, we come 
to the queen of flowers, the Rose. 
A book, rather than a portion of 
a chapter, should be devoted to this 
flower ; but as our space is limited, we must 
with a word, dismiss the large divisions of 
June, Hardy or Hybrid Perpetuals, Pro- 
vence, Damask, Galic, Moss, Climbing, Austrian, 
Noisette, and Banksian Roses, each of which would require 
a separate treatise, and confine ourselves to the China, 
Bourbon, and Tea families. 

Many of the others are of great value for the green- 
house, some being, in our climate, purely green-house 
roses, and others being invaluable for forcing ; but none 
succeed with parlor culture, though many are well known 
in the garden, and may claim more than a passing mention 
when we come to the concluding portion of our book, 
the Flower Garden and Shrubbery. 




PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 119 

CHINA ROSE. 

And, first, the China rose. While treating of paren- 
tage, we may also include the tea rose, which, with the 
China, comes from the same ancestor, the Rosa Indica and 
its varieties. From this stock come all the China and tea- 
scented roses, which, by skilful hybridization, are now so 
multiplied that akeady their name is legion. Prop- 
erly speaking, the three roses which are the oldest, and 
may be considered parents of the race, are Eosa Indica, 
the common Chinese rose, B. semperflorens, the crimson or 
sanguinea rose, and R. odorata, the Chinese or sweet- 
scented tea rose. 

The China rose and its hybrids are usually stout growing, 
and sometimes of a close, twdggy habit. With us they 
will not endure the winter without protection, but south of 
Baltimore, stand out uninjured. 

They are the common rose of window gardening, and 
are known as " monthly roses." The colors vary from 
white to deep crimson or red, running through all the 
shades of blush and pink. 

They are often exposed for sale in early spring at the 
corners of streets and in the market places, every little 



120 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

shoot being crowned with a bud or flower. The foliage is 
generally smooth, glossy, and fine cut, clothing every little 
twig, and of a lively, fresh appearance. 

It will survive almost any treatment, and will live if but 
a ray of sunlight can reach it. It is the poor man's friend, 
and clings to him in every vicissitude ; yet, while possess- 
ing adaptability to circumstances in a remarkable degree, 
no plant will better repay care and attention. Cleanliness, 
washing, and syringing are essential to good health ; give 
plenty of light, and it will repay you by abundance of 
bloom. Though as its common names (daily or monthly 
rose) imply, it will not bloom every day, yet there will sel- 
dom be a day when it will not have a flower or a bud 
upon it. It will ask you, too, for an occasional smoking ; 
for the green fly is very fond of the delicate juices of its 
young shoots, and this indeed of all roses. 

Do not give it too large a pot. Roses will do well in 

smaller pots, in proportion to their size, than almost any 

other plant. 

Soil. 

Yet the soil must be rich and well mixed. It should 
consist of four parts of the richest black loam, or leaf 
mould, two parts of well-rotted manure, with a slight ad- 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 121 

mixture of fine sand. This soil should not be sifted, but 
lumpy, yet well mixed together. 

In potting, as much of the old soil as can be taken off 
without breaking the roots, should be removed, and the 
plant set just up to the neck or collar, on the new soil ; 
settle the earth well around the plant, and give a gentle 
watering from the fine rose of a watering pot. Pruning 
should be done as required ; the eyes will break any where ; 
therefore, whenever a branch becomes too long or un- 
sightly, cut it in ; there need be no fear of 'injuring the 
plant. 

If they have been planted out in the garden during the 
summer, on removal to the house in the autumn they will 
need a severe pruning. Cut off the young wood to within 
a few inches of the old wood, and give the plants a little 
rest, by giving less water and little heat ; when you wish 
them to bloom, bring them into full sunlight, give more, 
heat, and, as soon as the young branches have begun to 
push, give plenty of water. Every eye will produce a 
shoot, crowned with one or more buds ; after blooming, 
shorten in the blooming branches about one half; new eyes 
will push, and a second display of bloom be the result. In 
watering roses, care must be taken not to render the soil 
11 



122 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

cold and sodden; water should never stand round the 
roots ; frequent stirring of the surface of the soil is very 
beneficial. A few bits of charcoal, broken fine and mixed 
with the earth, will impart the richest brilliancy to the 
flowers. 

The following list of China roses will be found to include 
the best old varieties. New hybrids are constantly pro- 
duced, and all of this class make good window plants. 
China roses are called also " Bengal"', roses. 

List of China Hoses. 

1. Agrippina, or Cramoisi Superieur. Rich, velvety crimson, very 
double. 

2. La Superhe. Purple crimson, very double, flowers always opening 
■well. 

3. Eels Blush, A profuse bloomer ; flowers large and double, resem- 
bling a tea rose. 

4. Indica, or Common Daily. Dark blush or rose color ; free grower 
and profuse bloomer. This is the common "monthly rose." 

5. Indica Alba. A white variety of the last, of more slender growth, 
but double and free flowering. 

6. A dwarf form of R. Indica, called '* Fairy Rose,'" Tom Thumb, 
Lawrenceana, is a pretty little miniature rose, very double, and about as 
large as a dime or half dime. 

7. Mrs. Boiisanquet. Creamy blush, very fine ; by some classed as a 
Bourbon, which it seems to be. It is very distinct from other Chinas. 

8. Semperflorens, or " Sanguinea." Very double ; cupped ; rich 
crimson. Every where grown and appreciated. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GAEDENING. 123 

9. Jacksonia. Bright red, very double. 

10. Louis Philippe. Dark crimson; globular. 

11. Eugene Hardy. White, changing to blush. 

12. Eugene Beauharnais. Bright amaranth, very fine form, and 
fragrant. 

There are many others which may he found in florists' 
catalogues. 

For one rose for bloom, choose No. 8 ; for two, Nos. 8 
and 3 ; for three, Nos. 8, 3, and 12 ; for four, add No. 4; 
for five, add No. 2 ; for six. No. 9 or 1 . 

TEA ROSES. 

The original rose {^R. odorata) M^as only introduced about 
1812, and from this have sprung our many fine varieties. 
The treatment required is identical with that of the China 
rose ; yet a richer soil, and more heat and light, may be 
afforded to advantage. The former is easily done by in- 
creasing the proportion of manure in potting. 

They also need more care, and are not so patient under 
neglect. For summer bedding in the garden, they are un- 
surpassed. Usually their growth is more delicate and 
graceful than that of the China varieties. 

The following list includes some of the best varieties, 
which may be relied upon for window or garden growth. 



124: PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

They will not bear our winters unprotected. This list 
may be multiplied fourfold from catalogues : — 

1. Adam. Bright pink ; large and cupped. 

2. Comte cle Paris. Creamy rose ; large and fine. 

3. Caroline. Bright, rosy pink or flesh-colored ; large and very fine. 

4. Gloire de Dijon. Yellow, shaded with salmon and rose ; an im- 
mense flower ; very full ; not always opening well with window culture ; 
by some, considered a " Bourbon." 

5. Clara Sijlvain. Pure white ; double ; very fragrant. 

6. Yellow Tea. Pale yellow ; long, beautiful bud ; very fine. 

7. Elise Sauvage. Bright yellow, fading to white ; large and fine. 

8. Madame Desprez. White ; very fragrant. 

9. Safra?io. Fawn color or safiron ; sometimes rosy ; not very 
double, but fine in the bud. 

10. Triomphe de Luxembourg. Buff salmon, shading to rose. 

11. Souvenir dhm Ami. Rose and salmon ; fine. 

12. Goubaiilt Rose. Yellow centre ; large and fine. 

13. Le Pactole. Lemon yellow; very fine. 

14. Boug^re. Browzy, rosy lilac ; a strong grower. 

15. Odorata. Fine blush, well cupped. 

For one rose of this class, for window culture, we should select 
No. 15 ; then add No. 9, No. 12, No. 14, No. 5, No. 2, No. 1. 

BOURBON ROSES. 

The union of the Damask Perpetual with the China rose 
has produced the new and distinct race known as Bour- 
bons. They have a peculiar habit and foliage, are free, 
vigorous growers, and much hardier than the China rose. 
In the Middle States, they are perfectly hardy, and will 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 125 

endure our winters with but slight protection. As bedders, 
they are unsurpassed, and bloom during the whole summer. 
They are usually wintered in frames, like the China and 
tea roses. For window gardening, they are not as suitable 
as those species, yet their beauty renders them worthy of a 
permanent place, where space can be given, and for green- 
house and conservatory blooming, they are magnificent. 

Their treatment is identical with that of the species 
above described. 

The following are fine varieties : — 

Bouquet de Flore. Light, rosy carmine. 

Dr. Roque. Purplish crimson. 

Ghire de Dijon. See tea roses. 

Madame Desprez. See tea roses. 

Dupetit Thonars. Bright crimson ; very showy. 

Leveson Goioer. Deep rose ; very large. 

Sotivemr de la Malmaison. Pale flesh color, very large and fine. 

Queen of Bourbons. Fawn-colored blush ; a free bloomer. 

Sir Joseph Paxton. Deep rose ; very fine. 

Paul Joseph. Purplish violet. 

Hermosa. Light blush or rose color ; very fine form. 

George Peabody. Dark, velvety crimson. 

Mrs. Bosanquet. Pale flesh color ; good form ; very fine. 

The most satisfactory method of growing roses is to 
build a small pit for them. Plant them out in a rich soil, 
and they will bloom summer and winter. Very little heat 
11* 



126 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

is required to winter them safely, and the sashes being 

entirely removed in summer, all the benefit of growth in 

the open air is obtained. On the approach of frosty 

nights, the sashes are put on, and the roses bloom all 

winter. / 

THE PINK. 

Next to the rose, this is a favorite flower, and as a win- 
dow plant, does equally well in spring and summer. 

We shall at once dismiss the garden, Indian, and florists' 
or Paisley pinks, and confine ourselves to the carnation and 
picotee, these being the varieties for window culture. 

Yet a word for the double crimson Indian pink. It is a 
pretty little flower, always in bloom, and only needs light 
and a rich loam to make it a beautiful window plant. 

The best way to procure it is to buy seed ; sow it in the 
spring, in the garden, and on the approach of frost, pot 
the plants for winter blooming. It may then be easily 
increased by slips or layering. 

The carnation pink is a very old inhabitant of our gar- 
dens. It is said to have been introduced into cultiva- 
tion from Italy or Germany before 1510. 

The question is often asked, What is the diff'erence be- 
tween a carnation and a picotee ? None, botanically ; it is 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 127 

purely a florist's distinction. The carnation has the marks 
on its petals, from the centre to the edge, in flakes or 
stripes of colors, on a white ground. The picotee has a 
white or yellow ground, the edges of the petals being 
fringed with various shades of red and purple. 

Carnations are divided into five classes, namely: 
1. Scarlet Bizarres ; 2. Pink or Crimson Bizarres ; 3. Scar- 
let Flakes ; 4. Rose Flakes ; 5. Purple Flakes. 

Bizarre is derived from the French, meaning odd or 
irregular. The flowers in these classes have three colors, 
which are irregularly placed on each petal. Scarlet Bizarres 
have that color predominating over the purple or crimson ; 
but the Pink or Crimson Bizarres have more of these colors 
than the Scarlet. Scarlet Flakes are simple white grounds, 
with distinct stripes or ribbons of scarlet. Rose and Pur- 
ple Flakes have these two colors upon a white ground. 

Picotees are divided into seven classes : 1 . Red, heavy- 
edged ; 2. Red, light-edged ; 3. Rose, heavy-edged ; 
4. Rose, light-edged ; 5. Purple, heavy-edged ; 6. Purple, 
light-edged; 7. Yellow ground, without any distinction as 
to the breadth of the edge color. 

Pinks, both picotees and carnations, are of little use as 
house plants until well into the spring ; if, however, they 



128 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

are grown, they should be kept cool, and rather dry ; there 
is nothing gained by trying to force them. The best 
method of growing them is in the open border, preserving 
them in a cold frame through the winter. If grown in 
pots, they are much more difficult of management. In the 
open border, they bloom in June, July, and later, and are 
an indispensable ornament. We do not recommend the 
pink as a window flower, but have been constrained to 
include it in our list, as it is a favorite flower. 

The rules we give are very full, and apply both to the 
window, the cold frame, and the garden; they are com- 
piled from English authorities, and possess little claim to 
originality. 

Propagation and Gexeeal Treatment. 

Soil for Culture in Pots. Get the turf from an upland 
pasture ; take off about three inches thick, and keep it in 
a heap for a year, to cause the grass roots to decay and 
mellow the soil ; chop it, and turn it over four or five times 
during the year ; it will be in finer condition for use. 
During this, the worms and grubs, especially wire worms, 
should be picked out, for it is frequently the case that the 
soil best adapted to the carnation contains its greatest 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 129 

enemy. Before being used, the soil should be passed 
through a coarse sieve or screen, and the fibre rubbed 
through with the soil. The soil in which the plants are 
bloomed, and that in which they are kept in small pots 
through the winter, should be different, for in the latter they 
are not required to make much progress, and the less they 
are excited in autumn and winter the better, provided they 
make steady progress and preserve their health. This can 
only be secured by abstaining from the use of stable dung, 
using pure loam, and such decayed vegetable matter as is 
afforded by the grass naturally growing in loam when the 
turves are cut. Neither should the loam be too adhesive, 
but sufficiently porous to allow the water to percolate 
freely ; should it not be so naturally, a little sand may be 
used to lighten it. In preparing the soil for blooming the 
plants, take of this loam three parts, well decomposed leaf 
mould one part, thoroughly rotted cow dung one part (if 
this cannot be obtained, hot-bed manure, well decomposed, 
in fact, reduced toa fine, black mould, may be substituted), 
and of sandy peat, one part. A small portion of old lime 
rubbish, slightly sifted, will be of service to the plant, 
mixed among the compost. Being duly mixed, in sufficient 
quantity, let it be brought under shelter to dry some time 
before the potting season. 



130 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

On receiving the plants from the nursery, if in the fall, 
they should be potted, as above, in four-inch pots, giving 
two inches of crocks at the bottom for drainage, and nearly 
filling the pot with the earth, but highest in the middle, 
and spreading the roots as much as possible all around 
alike. The soil is only just to cover the roots, and to be 
pressed gently to them, and in this state, after watering, to 
settle the loam about their roots, they should be placed in a 
common garden frame, upon a hard bottom, into which the 
waste water, when refreshed, cannot soak, but with a very 
gentle slope, that any water which runs through the pots 
may run away. In the winter management, the chief 
object is, to give all the air they can have in mild weather 
by taking the lights off ; to give them water very seldom, 
and never till they absolutely want it. If to be grown in 
pots, they should be re-potted early in twelve-inch pots, 
two or three plants in a pot, using the soil above directed. 
Let there be at least three inches drainage. In putting 
them in those large pots, let the ball of earth be turned 
out whole, rub oif a little of the surface, and, after having 
filled the large pot high enough with the compost, place the 
ball so that the collar of the plant, which is just above the 
surface of the old ball, be within half an inch of the edge 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 131 

of the pot ; put the soil around it ; press it do^^^l between 
the ball and the side, and fill the whole up level with the 
collar of the plant and the edge of the pot. Let them all 
be placed in a sheltered spot, and refreshed with water 
when they require it, which will be more or less frequently, 
according as the season be dry or wet. Let each pot have 
a stake in the centre, to which the plants may be closely 
tied as they rise up for bloom. When they show their 
buds, remove all but three, and the flowers will be the 
finer, and not more than one blooming shoot may be left on 
each plant. When the buds have swollen, and are about 
to burst, tie a piece of bass matting round the middle, and 
carefully open the calyx down to the tie, at all the divisions, 
as the flower can then open all around alike ; otherwise, 
they frequently burst on one side, and it is then difficult to 
form an even flower. As the petals develop themselves, 
they should be shaded from the sun and rain, either of 
which would damage the flowers. Culture in pots is sel- 
dom resorted to in this country, unless it be for exhibition 
purposes ; and it is for the benefit of amateurs, who wish 
to grow them for that purpose, that we have given such 
minute directions. 

Culture in Beds and the Flower Border. This is the 



132 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

most common method in this country, culture in pots being 
attended with more trouble, and occupying more time, than 
can usually be given. 

They succeed admirably in any good garden loam, pro- 
vided it is well drained ; wet or moisture, when over 
abundant, is very injurious. The soil should be trenched 
to the depth of eighteen inches in the fall, enriching it at 
the same time with leaf mould and cow's manure, thor- 
oughly rotted ; should the soil be heavy, an addition of 
refuse charcoal, lime rubbish, or sand, wall be beneficial, 
leaving the surface rough, that the frost of winter may act 
upon it. In the spring, the beds should be again thor- 
oughly spaded to the depth of one foot, and raked smooth ; 
after which the plants should be turned out of the pots, 
leaving the ball entire, and planted two feet apart each 
way. The after treatment may be the same as recom- 
mended for pot culture. 

Propagation. By layers and pipings, for increasing 
approved sorts, and by seed for the production of new 
varieties. 

By Layers. The time for performing this operation is 
when the plants are in full bloom, or a little past. The 
shoots of the plant, around the bottom, should then be 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 133 

brought down to the ground, and, when rooted, separated 
from their parent. The materials needed for layering are a 
sharp, small knife, a quantity of notched pegs, and some 
finely-sifted soil. Choose a dull, cloudy day on which to 
perform this work ; or, if the plants are in pots, they may 
be layered in any Aveather. Begin by. trimming off the 
leaves from the bottom of a shoot, leaving the two upper- 
most on, and entire. Trim oiT the lower leaves on every 
shoot before layering one, because, when a layer is tongued, 
it is easily broken off. When this is done, take hold of 
the shoot, turn it up, and pass the knife blade through the 
third joint upward, commencing the cut just below it ; then 
reach a hooked peg, thrust it into the soil, catching hold, 
by its hook, of the layer as it descends, and press it gently 
down to the soil. Do the next in the same manner, and 
so on until every shoot is layered, then cover them all Avith 
the sifted mould, about three quarters of an inch deep, and 
the process is completed ; then give a slight watering, and 
the layers require no further care, but watering, until they 
are rooted, which will be in about a month or six weeks. 
When sufficiently rooted, pot them off into five-inch pots, 
a pair in each ; or, if your space is limited, and the layers 
small, three may be put into each pot. After they are 
12 



134 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

potted, they should be placed under glass, in a cold frame 
or pit, plenty of air given in mild weather, and shelter from 
severe frost, when it occurs. Very little water is required 
during the winter months, and the air in the frames should 
be as dry as possible. Should damp prevail, the plants, 
some fine day, should be taken out, and a coat of fine, dry 
coal ashes spread over the surface. The plants should then 
be replaced in the pit. 

Bij Pipings. Carnations may be propagated by this 
mode, where there is the convenience of a gentle hot-bed. 
It is, however, not so safe as layering ; but when there are 
more shoots than can be layered, and it is desirable to 
propagate largely, the superfluous shoots may be piped. 
Cut ofl" the lower part of the shoot, up to the third joint, 
trim off the lowest pair of leaves, and pass the knife just 
through the joint. Prepare a pot, by draining it, and filling 
it with the compost up to within an inch of the top ; fill 
that inch with silver sand, water it gently to make it firm, 
and then insert the piping all around it, close to the pot 
sides; place them in a gentle hot-bed, shading from the 
sun ; watch them daily, and supply water when the sand 
becomes dry. When they are rooted, which they will 
show by sending up fresh leaves, pot them in pairs, 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 135 

as directed for layers, and treat them in the same 
manner. 

By Seeds. The seeds may be sown, during the spring 
months, in boxes or pans filled with the same description 
of soil as before recommended. Let the surface of the soil 
be made even, and the seed, evenly scattered over it, cover 
them to the depth of a quarter of an inch with finely sifted 
mould. If early in the season, the pans may be put in a 
moderate hot-bed, just to cause the seeds to germinate, but 
must not be long kept there for fear of weakening and 
drawing the plants. Without artificial heat, the seeds may 
be sown in May, placing the pans or boxes in an open, airy 
part of the garden, but shaded from the sun, at least from 
ten in the morning till four in the afternoon. Moderate 
moisture will be indispensable, but if the soil be kept too 
wet, the plants are liable to damp off, or to be otherwise 
injured. When the plants have acquired six leaves, and 
are about two inches high, they should be pricked out in 
rows six inches apart, keeping them well watered until they 
have taken fresh root. About the beginning of October, 
they should be potted for the convenience of wintering. 
Plant out in the spring, in a bed prepared as before 
directed. As soon as the blossoms can be seen, all the 



136 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

single sorts should be taken up and thrown away, to give 
the double ones more room to grow. The finer blossoms 
ought then to be selected for layering or piping. 

The following list comprises a few of the varieties : — 

Carnations. Picotees. 

Admiral Ciirzon, Esther, 

Coriolanus, Prince Albert, 

General Simpson, Amy Robsart, 

King of Carnations, Haidee, 

Falconbridge, Ophelia, 

Acca, Princess Royal, 

Squire Trow, Lamia, 

Valentine, Duke of Newcastle, 

Benedict. Ganymede. 

THE FUCHSIA. 

If by a windoiu plant we mean one which blooms in 
winter, then the Fuchsia is not a window plant. A few 
solitary blooms may be produced during the spring, but the 
summer is its season of glory. 

As a pot plant, for summer blooming, it is unsurpassed, 
being very floriferous, of brilliant foliage, and symmetrical 
habit. All of our garden varieties are hybrids, from 
ancestors introduced from South America and Mexico. 
Strange to say, there is a New Zealand species also. The 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 137 

first, F. coccinea, was introduced from Chili, just before the 
year 1800. 

The plant is of the easiest culture ; the growth is rapid, 
and a young spring cutting will make a large plant by 
autumn. The secret of growing the plant is, never to let 
it stop growing until you have it of the desired blooming 
size ; keep re-potting, as soon as the roots touch the pot, 
until you get it into a twelve-inch pot, Avhich is large 
enough for the window blooming of a fuchsia. Give plenty 
of light and air; turn the plant frequently, lest it grow 
one-sided, and fumigate when needed to kill green fly. 
The best form to grow a young plant is the ppamidal. 
Train up a leading shoot, and if the plant is supplied with 
pot room and plenty of light, and has not heat enough to 
draw it out weak, it will form side shoots in sufficient 
abundance to produce a handsome outline, the branches 
being allowed to take their own pendent form. The plant 
may also be prettily grown on a flat trellis. The best place 
for a fuchsia in winter is a dry cellar, free from frost, 
where they should be kept nearly dry. About the first of 
March prune back all the side shoots, and leave only the 
upright stem ; prune in the roots also, and re-pot them in 
as small a pot as will hold the roots ; as the eyes break, 
12^* 



138 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

thin out those which are not needed, leaving enough to 

give plenty of side branches. Re-pot, and treat as above 

directed. 

Soil. 

One part of peat, one of loam, and one of leaf mould 
will grow them well ; thoroughly mix the component parts, 
and break it rather fine; be careful to secure good 
drainage. 

Vakieties. 

Every spring gives us a host of new varieties, most of 
which are discarded in a few years. The white coroUaed 
varieties are generally of weak growth, and not adapted for 
culture out of the green-house. Those with a double co- 
rolla we do not admire ; the multiplication of floral leaves 
detracts much from the simple beauty of the flower ; they 
are, however, valuable in a collection, and very showy. 

Fuchsia coccinea is a pretty species, with purple and 
white sepals and corolla. 

Fuchsia serratifolia, a species with scarlet tube, tipped 
with green, blooming in winter. 

There are some twenty other species, which are beautiful 
in a green-house, but valueless for window growth. 

The following hybrid varieties are all fine : — 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 139 

Venus de Medlcis. Tube white, sepals blush white, corolla deep blue; 
fine habit. 

Etoile du Nord. Bright scarlet sepals and tube ; corolla black violet. 
with short, reflexed sepals. 

Souvenir de Chiswlck. Tube and sepals rosy, crimson, violet; co- 
rolla fine. 

Ajax. A fine, dark variety. 

Empress Eugenie. Crimson sepals, white corolla. 

England's Glory. Fine white ; scarlet corolla. 

Glohosa. Scarlet; purple corolla. 

Glory. Crimson; violet corolla. 

Lady of the Lake. Crimson blush ; white corolla. 

Mrs. Story. Scarlet sepals ; white corolla. 

Wo?iderful. Scarlet tube and sepals; violet corolla. 

Queen Victoria, La Crinoline, Omar Pasha, Nil Desperandtitn, Duch- 
ess of Lancaster, Climax, Guiding Star, Rose of Castile, Rot des Blancs, 
Prince Frederic William, are all fine varieties. 




CHAPTER VI. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, CONTINUED. 



Myrtle: History. — Soil.— Culture.— Varieties. Aoh.knia: Ease of 
growing. — Soil. Abutilon : Culture. — Soil. — Varieties. Thunber- 
GIA: Sowing. — Training. — Insects. — Soil. — Varieties. Aloysia, OR 
Lemon Verbexa : Culture. — Soil. — Watering. Calla: Resting.— 
Blooming. — Soil. Cuphea : Culture. — Potting. — Soil. Cactus: Di- 
visions of the Family. — Cereus .• Summer Treatment. — Pruning. — Wa- 

(140) 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 141 

tering-. — Varieties of Cereus. — Epiphyllum -. Soil. — Varieties. Hydran- 
gea: Culture. — Soil. — Effect of Iron. Agapaxthus: Soil.— Win- 
tering-. — Watering. — Varieties. Oleandek : Flowering. — Soil. — Va- 
rieties. PiTTOSPOKUM : Varieties. — Soil. Jasmine: Soil. — Culture. 

— Water. — Varieties. Caloeolakia : Sowing. — After Culture. — Soil. 
Maiiernia: Description. — Soil. — Varieties. Prijiula : Sowing. — 
Treatment. — Soil.— Description. Solanum: A Parlor Ornament.— 
Culture. — Soil. Laurestixus: Description. — Washing. Hoy a: 
Description. — P^lowering. — Watering. Chrysaxthemujis : Culture. 

— Watering. — Soil. — Varieties. Begonia : Varieties. — Situation. — 
Watei'ing. — Soil. 

THE MYRTLE. 

MYRTLES are natives of Europe, New 
Holland, and China. They are hard- 
wooded, evergreen shrubs, possessing 
a peculiar, agreeable fragrance, and 
have always been favorites for parlor 
culture. 

The soil should be three parts loam, 
^vith one part of sand and one of leaf 
mould. 

They do not require very large pots, and flourish well in 
almost any situation. 

They require moderate washing, and watering, and plenty 
of light and air during the growing season, which is in sum- 
mer, when they should be put out of doors in a shady place. 




142 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

yet not under the drip of trees. The flowers are usually 
white, and produced in profusion in midsummer. M. com- 
munis is the common plant of our parlors, of which there 
are many varieties, with small and large leaves, variegated 
foliage, and flowers single or double. 

M. tenuifoUa is a New Holland species ; a fine plant for 
parlor culture. 

M. tomentosa is a fine Chinese species, with purple 
flowers changing to white, so that flowers of many shades 
are seen at once on the same plant. It should be more 
generally grown, being equally hardy, except it is impatient 
of exposure to the hot sun. 

ACH^NIA. 

A. malvaviscus is a beautiful parlor plant, symmetrical in 
growth, and producing its brilliant, scarlet flowers in profu- 
sion at the end of every branch. These flowers are suc- 
ceeded by white berries, changing to bright red, which alone 
would make the plant ornamental did it not always display 
a profusion of bloom. 

The best way to grow the plant is as a ppamid, as thus 
the flowers and fruit show to great advantage. Give plenty 
of sun and light, turning the plant frequently. It is not 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 143 

subject to the attacks of insects. Soil, two parts loam, two 
leaf mould, with a slight admixture of sand. 

ABUTILON. 

This is a race of shrubby, green-house plants, well 
adapted for the parlor. 

They are free growers, of upright habit, and unless judi- 
ciously pruned, will soon outgrow their quarters. They 
are natives of South America and New Holland. 

The proper soil is, two parts loam, two of leaf mould, 
and one of sand. If the soil is too rich, the growth will be 
too rapid for the fuU development of the side branches. 
Keep the plant moderately moist. The varieties for parlor 
culture are, — 

A. venosum, with large yellow flowers with red veins ; A. 
Bedfordianum, flowers much of the same character. 

A. striatum, one of our prettiest window plants ; always 
in bloom, and beautiful from its profusion of pendulous, 
veined, red and yellow blossoms all winter. 

There are many other varieties, some with white, others 
'>vith red flowers, but they are not recommended for house 
plants. 



144 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

THUNBERGIA. 

These pretty plants are usually grown as annuals with us, 
for summer decoration in the flower garden, but they also 
make fine window plants. For this purpose, sow the seed 
in August in pots ; as the plants grow, transplant one to 
each pot, and train the slender shoots on a neat trellis. 
Give plenty of sun, and sjTinge very often, for the plants are 
very subject to attacks of red spider. They will show 
bloom about the middle of January, and produce a profusion 
during the winter and spring months. The plants will show 
bud very early, but if they are allowed to bloom, growth 
will stop ; therefore it is best to pick off" all the flower buds 
until the plant is of the required size, when they may be 
allowed to open. 

Cuttings root very freely in sand, under a bell glass. 
The soil should be, one part turfy loam, one part peat, one 
part well-rotted manure. Water moderately. 

The varieties are, — 

T. alata, bufl" yellow, with a black centre ; T. alata 
aurantia, deep orange, with black centre ; T. alata alba, 
white, with black centre. 

There are also some superb hot-house species. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 145 

ALOYSIA, OR LEMON VEEBENA. 

A half-hardy deciduous shrub, from Chili; the only species 
is A. citriodora, commonly called Lemon Verbena. It is 
valuable only for the fragrance of the leaves, the flowers 
being small, whitish lilac, and of little beauty. As a winter 
plant it is of no value, as it needs a season of rest, which 
must be given it in a cellar free from frost. 

The best treatment is, to plant it out in spring in the 
flower border, where it wiU make vigorous gi-owth. In the 
fall, before the fu-st frost, remove the plant with a ball of 
earth to the cellar. In spring, trim the plant into a neat 
shape, and re-plant it. If grown in pots, the proper soil is, 
two parts of loam, two of leaf mould, and a slight mixture 
of sand. While the plants are growing, give plenty of 
water, but withhold it entirely during the winter. 

CALLA. 

The only plant, of this genus, worthy of cultivation, is the 
well-known Calla Lily (Ricliardia JEtliiopica). It is too 
familiar to our readers to need description. To bloom the 
plants well, they should have a season of rest, Avhich may be 
regulated so as to have bloom at any season, if we have sev- 
13 



146 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

eral plants. Tliey naturally rest after the blooming season. 
When they again begin to grow, re-pot them ; if a plant 
with a single stem is required, remove all suckers, other- 
wise they will do no harm to remain ; but the plant requir- 
ing frequent re-pottings, will soon become so large as to be 
unmanageable. 

The foliage is peculiarly fine, and the plant is worth 
growing for this alone. 

If bloom is particularly desired, the best way is to plant 
some six or eight roots in the half of an oil cask. Paint it 
green, and put on two iron handles ; you thus have a very 
cheap, pretty, serviceable, and durable tub. Fill this Avith 
the richest loam, and set the plants, the largest in the mid- 
dle, the smaller around the sides, and set the tub on the 
piazza or in a grass plat. The plants will bloom during the 
summer very freely, and may be wintered in a light cellar 
without difficulty. 

The proper soil is richest loam and peat well mixed. 
When gi'owing, you cannot give the plants too much water. 
In the window, if the plants are set in a saucer kept con- 
stantly filled with water, they will be the better for it. In 
summer, the plant will gi*ow well, and flower profusely out 
of doors in a tank. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 147 

CUPHEA. 

The only plant of this family, desu-able for a window 
plant, is the little Mexican G. ignea or platycentra. This 
is a sparkling little gem of a plant, always in bloom. Plant 
it in the flower border in summer, re-pot in autumn, and all 
winter it will gladden you by a profusion of its bright scar- 
let tubes tipped with a ring of black and white. The plant 
never grows above a foot in height, and is just suited for 
the window. Soil, about three parts loam, one each of sand 
and manure. Water freely, but do not allow the soil to 
become sodden. 

CACTUS. 

There are seven families of Cacti, containing each a great 
number of species. Those chiefly grown as parlor plants 
come under the families Cereus and Epiphyllum. The for- 
mer family is a native of all dry, tropical regions of the 
western continent. 

The soil most suitable is, two parts peat, one part broken 
potsherds, broken coarse, one part loam or old mortar rub- 
bish, and one part manure ; mix these well together and 
secure good drainage. 

During the summer, the plants should stand out of doors 



148 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

in a sheltered place, from the time they have done flowering 
until September. Then remove them to the house, all parts 
of shoots having no bloom buds (they are easily seen along 
the leaves) being cut back to just beyond the buds. The 
plants should be confined to six or eight strong stems ; 
while these are in good health, the growth of shoots from 
the roots is not to be encouraged. 

Give the plants no water from September until February ; 
while in growth, water moderately. They bloom from May 
to August. 

Some of the varieties are, — 

C. Speciosissimus . Crimson and purple flowers. 

C. FlagelUformis. Rose flowers. This variety should be allowed to 
droop, and not be pruned. 

C. GrancUflortt& is the night-blooming Cereus; flowers yellowish 
white. This variety will not bloom untfl it is old. 

C. Maynatdi. Deep orange red flowers. 

C. Triafiffuiaris. Cream color ; immense flower. 

All varieties will do well as window plants. The first 
is the best for general culture. 

We now come to the latter family, Epiphyllum, all 
natives of tropical America. This branch of the Cactus 
family is distinguished by flat shoots, and leaves without 
spines. The soil and treatment is identical with that of the 
Cereus. The best varieties are, — 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 149 

E. Akermanni. Fine scarlet flower. 
E. Jenkinsonii. Fine scarlet flower. 
E. Speciosum. Rosy pink flower. 
E. Akttum. White flower. 

E. Truncatum, and its varieties, with scarlet, rosy, red, violet, and 
white flowers. - » 

All these latter varieties are drooping, and to show to 
advantage, should be grafted on some of their tall-growing 
Cereus relations. C. sjoeciosissimus makes the best stock. 

HYDRANGEA. 

This is only a summer plant, but an old favorite. One 
requisite for its successful culture is shade ; if grown in the 
sun, the leaves become bro^vned and the plant does poorly. 
With us, it is not hardy out doors, so it must be grown in a 
tub, and wintered in the cellar. The flowers are produced 
on the shoots of the previous year. It requires to be well 
grown to flower profusely, and the flowers from young plants 
are larger than those on plants three or four years old. 

AVhile growing, the plants should have a good supply of 
water. 

Soil, one part loam, one part manure, one part peat. 
The color of the flowers is pink, but if iron filings be mixed 
with the earth they will become blue. 
13* 



150 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

Besides the well known pink variety {H. hortensis), there 
are many others ; of these, H. japonica, with blue and 
white flowers, is desirable. 

AGAPANTHUS, 

Or African Lily. A showy plant for summer blooming, 
and too well known to need description. Soil, two parts 
loam, one part manure, one part leaf mould. Well grown 
it is a noble plant, but wiU bear much iU-usage. Treated 
as recommended for the calla lily, and planted in a tub, it 
forms a fine plant. 

Winter in a dry, light cellar, and water occasionally. 
Water freely \vhile growing. 

There is a white variety, and one with variegated foliage ; 
both desirable ; a native of the Cape of Good Hope. 

OLEANDER. 

A very showy, but much neglected plant ; too well known 
to need description. To bloom them in perfection, they 
need a stove, and yet do well in the parlor and out of doors. 

Their season for blooming is July, yet that may be 
changed, and bloom produced at any season. They flower 
freely Avhen scarcely a foot high, but will grow to the height 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 151 

of ten or fifteen feet, forming splendid trees covered with 
rose-colored, white, or variegated flowers. 

Give them plenty of pot room in soil, two parts loam, two 
parts peat, one part well-rotted manm-e. Being subject to 
white scale, frequent washings are desirable. 

They may be wintered in a light cellar, and then should 
be but little watered; during the growing and blooming 
seasons, water should be abundantly supplied. 

The principal varieties are double rose {Nereum oleander 
splendens), striata pleno, with double striped flowers, pur- 
purea, dark red, and as many as fifty named varieties, 

all good. 

PITTOSPORUM. 

This is an old-fashioned plant, a favorite for its fragrant 
flowers rather than for any beauty of foliage or blossom ; 
the former is dull green, the latter dirty white. 

The common variety (P. Tohira) is a native of New 
South Wales, and in England is a hardy wall plant; with us 
it is a parlor plant, blooming from February to May. Soil, 
three parts loam, with one each of leaf mould, sand, and 
manure. 

Water freely while in bloom and growth. During the 



152 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

summer, set the plant in a sheltered situation out of 
doors. 

The leaves need frequent washings, to keep them free 
from dust. 

This plant will thrive with very little sun. 

JASMINE. 

A family of favorite climbing shrubs, and very prei-,ty for 
window culture, alike desirable for their neat foliage and 
fragrant flowers. The flowers are white or yellow, and pro- 
duced from February to June, or later. 

The soil should be equal parts of loam and peat, with a 
slight admixture of sand. The only insect attacking them 
is scale, which a little care in washing will soon remove. 
With common room culture, they grow to a large size and 
make superb plants. 

"Water should be rather freely given. They should be 
trained on neat trellises, and the branches allowed to droop. 
The most desirable varieties are, — 

/. Azoricum. White flowers in summer. 
J. Odoratissimum. Yellow flowers in spring. 
J. MiiUiflorum. White flowers in spring. 
J. Nudiflorum. Yellow flowers in spring. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 153 



CALCEOLARIA. 

The best way to grow this j)i'etty plant is by raising seed- 
lings. Sow seeds in August, in light, rich loam ; trans- 
plant the young plants to separate pots ; pinch out the cen- 
tre of the plant, and continue to do so until the plant is of 
the required blooming size. As the roots of the plant touch 
the pot, re-pot into a size larger. When the flower stems 
push up, tie them neatly to sticks. Be careful in watering 
not to give too much, or your plants will damp off. Give 
all the sun and air possible, and keep the plants as close to 
the glass as you can. 

The proper soil is three parts light, rich loam, one of fine 
peat, one of sand. 

The shrubby varieties are seldom grown as window 
plants, but are reserved for the flower garden. Under the 
treatment given above, they grow and bloom well. 

MAHERNIA. 

This is a lovely flower and a general favorite, always 
blooming, and always attractive with its fragrant yellow 
bells. 

Its tendency is to grow straggling, therefore it is best to 



154 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

select a plant with a straight stem. Tie up the main stem 
as it grows, and by continued pinching restrain the too 
luxuriant growth. 

M. odorata is the variety chiefly gi'o^vn. M. Hector and 
Diana are pretty orange and pink varieties. 

Soil, four parts loam, one of sand, one of manure. Keep 
the plants moist, but not wet, and give as much sun as pos- 
sible. In bloom from February to May. 

CHINESE PEIMEOSE. 

Both the single and double varieties of this plant are 
pretty for window gardening. Sow the seed in July, in a 
fine soil, as directed for calceolarias, and treat the plant the 
same, except the pinching. By January, nice little bloom- 
ing plants will be formed ; give them sun and air and do 
not allow them to over-bloom, as they are apt to do. 

After bloom is over, set them out of doors (about June), 
and on no account allow them to bloom during the summer. 
Grow them well until autumn, then re-pot in blooming 
pots, and by Christmas they will begin to show flower, and 
keep up a succession until spring. 

Soil, one part turfy loam, one part well decomposed cow 
dung, one part peat, and one part sand. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 155 

Be sure the pots are well drained, and never keep the 
plants very wet. The colors are red, rosy, lilac, white, 
striped, and mottled, with fringed and plain edges. 

SOLANTJM. 

The only plant of this useful family, suitable for room 
decoration on account of its flowers, is the Solanum jas- 
minoides, a pretty climber, with dark green foliage, and 
white potato-like flowers, in large clusters. 

It is useful to climb around a window or to cover a trellis. 
It is a rampant grower, subject to no disease or insect 
attacks, and with sun and air, if potted in a soil of rich 
loam, will take care of itself, and bloom all winter. 

SOLANUM PSEUDOCAPSICUM. 

This plant is the common Jerusalem Cherry. It was 
introduced from Maderia about the year 1596. For a 
showy plant, in the parlor or green-house, it has no equal, 
being studded with bright, red berries, about the size of a 
cherry, during the whole winter. A plant now before us, 
only two years old, is two feet high, three feet through, and 
bending down beneath the Aveight of fruit. The flowers 
are produced in June, and are inconspicuous. Sow the 



156 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

seeds in a pot in April ; as soon as the weather becomes 
warm, transplant to a rich, sunny border ; the plants will 
grow rapidly, and probably be in fruit the next winter ; pot 
the plants before the frost, and winter in room. 

There is a more dwarf-growing species {S. capiastricum)^ 
with orange berries, which is also very ornamental. 

A strong loam is the proper soil for all plants of this 
family. 

THE LAURESTINUS. 

This plant, hardy in England, is with us a winter- 
blooming parlor ornament. It is a free-growing, free- 
blooming evergreen, and will bear much hard usage. If 
cared for, however, it will repay the attention. The flowers 
are small, white, and in large, flattened panicles, expanding 
from February to May. 

The proper soil is a mixture of four parts loam, with one 
each of sand, leaf mould, and manure. The pots should be 
large, and the plants be freely watered. Dust collecting on 
the foliage injures the beauty and health of this plant, 
therefore frequent washings are desirable. There are many 
varieties, some of which, as the snow-ball {Viburnum op- 
ulus), are hardy shrubs. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 157 

HOYA, OR WAX PLANT. 

A slio^vy genus of stove climbers, of which one, Hoya 
carnosa, succeeds well with parlor culture. It is a climbing 
shrub, the leaves dark green and fleshy ; the flowers are of 
a peculiar waxy appearance, produced in umbels, whitish, 
with rose-colored centre, in which hangs a drop of limpid 
honey. 

Give the plant a large pot, and a compost of peat and 
loam in equal parts, securing good drainage. Give as much 
sunlight and heat as possible. The old bloom stalks 
should not be removed, as they put out flowers year after 
year. Much water is not needed, especially when the plant 
is not growing. This beautiful plant is a native of tropical 
Asia, and is one of the few stove plants that will adapt 
themselves to parlor culture. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

These plants are favorites for autumn blooming, and 
quite a treatise might be written on their cultivation, since 
they have become florists' flowers. A few hints must, how- 
ever, suflice. 

The best way to obtain a fine specimen is, to set out in 
14 



158 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 

the garden in the early spring a small plant ; give it con- 
stant attention during the summer, and pinch out the shoots 
so as to make lateral branches. About the first of Septem- 
ber let it set for bloom, and on the approach of frost, pot it 
and remove it to the parlor. It will bloom for two months 
or more. Then dry it off for the winter in the cellar, and 
by the spring it will furnish you with plenty of young 
plants. Water should be liberally supplied. The small- 
flowered. Pompon, varieties are very desirable ; the larger 
flowers are best seen in the garden. 

The proper soil is loam and well-rotted manure, with a 
little silver sand. Waterings of liquid manure ar3 very 
beneficial as the plants are showing bloom. The following 
will be found to be fine kinds : — 

Pom]}one. 
Andromeda. Cream color. Riqidqui. Violet plum. 

Nellie. Creamy pink. Lady Mayoress. White. 

Miratida. Bright rose. Salamon. Rosy carmine. 

Christiana. Canary yellow. Canary Bird. Yellow. 

Mrs. Dix. Blush. Miss Talford. White. 

Large-Floiuered Varieties. 
Alarm. Crimson. Prince Albert. Crimson red. 

Little Harry. Golden amber. King of Yellows. Yellow. 

Cassy. Orange and buff. Vesta. White. 

Hermine. Silver white. Annie Salter. Canary yellow. 

Pearl. Pearly white. Queen of England. Blush. 



PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 159 



BEGONIA. 

The only two species of this ornamental stove plant that 
do well in the parlor, are B. incarnata^ and fuchsioides. 
The former is an evergi'een shrub, with thick, fleshy stems, 
and large, drooping clusters of pink flowers in winter. It 
shows to great advantage if well cared for, and is one of the 
best window plants. The latter is often called " coral 
drop," and resembling the former somewhat in habit, pro- 
duces at all seasons, but chiefly in summer, its pretty, 
drooping, coral flowers. 

Both species require the warmest possible situation, and 
plenty of light and sun. They are impatient of much 
water, but the plants should never be allowed to droop. 
Good drainage is indispensable. The whole family thrive 
in a compost of one half loam, one half leaf mould, with a 
slight portion of sand. 





"<Wi(>^ 



CHAPTEH VII. 



CAPE BULBS. 



The TxiA: Soil. — Potting-. — Drying- off. — Seedlings.— Species. — Vari- 
eties. TheOxaus: Culture.— Soil. — Species. TheBabiana: De- 
scription. — Culture. — Red Spider. — Species. The II.emanthus : 

(160) 



CAPE BULBS. 



161 



Description. — Culture. — Species. The Amaryllis : Description. — 
Soil. — Species. The Lachenalia : Soil. — Potting. — Foliage. — Spe- 
cies. The Sparaxis : Description. — Culture. — Species. — Watering. 
The Axomatheca : Description. — Planting. — Resting. — Seedlings. — 
Species. The Tkitoxia : Culture. — Species. The Homeria : Soil. 
— Culture. — Flowering. — Species. The I!s^erine : Culture. — Soil. — 
Species. 



HERE is no finer class of window 
plants than the subjects of the pres- 
ent chapter. They combine, in a re- 
markable degree, the two requisites 
of easy cultivation and floral beauty. 
Yet strange it is, that we seldom see them, 
except in the green-house or conservatory, in 
this country, while in England they are pop- 
ular plants for home adornment, and grown both 
in the window and garden. 
Now, the inclemency of our climate debars us from 
blooming these floral gems in the garden ; but, as a com- 
pensation, our winter suns bring them to perfection at a 
season ^vhen the earth is locked with frost, and out- door 
gardening is entirely prevented. 

They are mostly natives of Southern Africa, in the 
region of the Cape of Good Hope ; whence their horticul- 
tural name, Cape Bulbs. From the nature of the climate 




162 CAPE BULBS. 

of that region, it is' obvious that the bulbs must have a 
season of rest. The year is there divided into two por- 
tions, the dry and rainy seasons ; during the one, the earth 
is saturated with moisture ; during the other, parched with 
drought. 

The general rule of culture is evident. When the plants 
start into growth, give plenty of water and sun ; keep them 
vigorously growing until after the flowers have faded ; then 
dry them off gradually, by watering less and less, till the 
foliage withers ; then place them in a dry, airy place, with- 
out removing them from the pots, until the season of 
growth. The soil should be sandy loam, for almost all the 
species. Never allow water to stand round the roots. 

The time for potting is from October to December ; they 
will flower from February to April ; let them dry off from 
March to June, and rest till October. These are but gen- 
eral rules ; special cultural directions will be given when 
we treat of each species. We have only described a few of 
those best adapted for the house. There are more than a 
hundred species, and countless varieties. To those who 
would see their beauty, and are unable to grow them, we 
would recommend Mrs. Loudon's book on Bulbous Plants, 
where most of them are described, and colored illustrations 
of many of the finest given. 



i 



CAPE BULBS. 163 



THE IXIA. 

These are all bulbs of easy growth, and remarkable for 
the brilliancy of their flowers. About the latter part of 
November, or earlier if the bulbs begin to grow, they should 
be shaken from the soil in the pots, and planted anew, in a 
compost made of one part sandy loam and one part peaty 
earth, with a little well-decomposed dung, in new, clean 
pots ; fill the pots about an inch deep with small crocks to 
secure good drainage, as the plants never thrive if the earth 
around the roots become sodden. Place the pots in a cool 
place till the plants begin to grow, when they should be 
placed in a strong light on a shelf close to the window. As 
a general rule, all bulbs should be grown as close to the 
glass as possible, as thus the leaves are shorter and of a 
better color, and the plants never become drawn, weak, and 
sickly. Do not attempt to force these plants ; they do not 
bear it well, and are deficient in size and number of flowers. 
The temperature sufficient to grow them is about forty 
degrees at night, to sixty by day. 

Five or six bulbs in a ten-inch pot, are quite sufficient, 
but never mix the varieties : the bulbs in a dry state are 
very similar, therefore each pot should be labelled distinctly. 



164 CAPE BULBS. 

if confusion in potting would be avoided. These plants, in 
England, are often grown in frames, or in the open border. 
In our climate, the green-house is their proper place, as 
they are killed by the least frost. By the latter part of 
January the flower stalks will begin to appear ; as they are 
very slender, they should be secured to neat stakes. Soon 
after blooming, the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the 
plants indicate a desire to rest. Unless it is desirable to 
ripen seed, the plants should be allowed to dry off grad- 
ually, and the pots then placed on a dry place, secure from 
mice, until the next autumn. Seedlings may be easily 
raised. Sow the seeds thinly, about the first of October, in 
the same soil used for the bulbs ; allow the seedlings to 
remain in the pan one year ; then transplant and treat as 
old bulbs ; they will bloom the third year, if well cared for. 
The nftDst usual mode of propagation is by offsets, which 
are freely produced ; the old bulb dies each year, giving 
birth to new bulbs and a host of offsets ; separate these 
before potting, and they will soon make flowering plants. 
Most of the varieties do well in the parlor window, and we 
can recommend them as both pretty and showy, though we 
believe none are fragrant. We have only space to describe 
a few out of some thirty varieties. 



CAPE BULBS. 165 

Ixia Viriclijlora. A most lovely species ; leaves very slender ; flower 
spike very long, producing from ten to thirty flowers. Words cannot 
describe the beauty of the flower ; the petals are of a peculiar vivid 
green ; the base of each black ; stamens large and yellow ; the contrast 
is most marked ; a very free bloomer, of the easiest culture. Intro- 
duced from the Cape about the year 1780. 

Ixia Crocata, or. more properly, Trito7iia Crocata. Flowers orange 
yellow, in great profusion. A fine variety for window culture. 

Ixia Conchijlora. A strikingly beautiful variety, with long, bufi- 
colored flowers. 

Ixia Conicd. Flowers orange ; very pretty. 

Ixia Cratjroides. Flowers dark yellow. 

Ixia Alba Oculata. Color white, shading to yellow, w^ith a dark choc- 
olate eye; exterior of petals pink, yellow and white. A very fine 
variety. 

Ixia Crispa. FloAvers blue. 

Ixia Erecta. Flowers white or flesh color. 

Ixia Squalida. Flowers rosy lilac. 

Ixia Kermisiana. Flowers vermilion. 

Ixia Leucantha. Flowers white. 

Ixia Capitata. Flowers white and black. 

The following are varieties : — ^ 

I. Theseus. Rosy pink, shading to a deep purple or lake eye. 

/. Aulica. Exterior of petals purple ; interior almost white, shading 
to purple at the tips ; eye dark purple. 

I. Plutus. Exterior of petals orange, with red strip down centre of 
the outer ; inner petals, and interior of all, bright orange ; eye almost 
black. 

I. Pallas. Only differing from last described in being straw, or 
cream color, instead of orange. 



16»6 CAPE BULBSi 

These varieties resemble in growth Ixia viridiflora, are 
tall growers, Avith narrow leaves. They are very fine, and 
well worthy of general cultivation. There are also many 
newer varieties advertised in English catalogues. 

An outlay of a few dollars will procure all these, and 
many other fine varieties, from England. The best way to 
procure a good stock is to import a collection. There are 
many new seedlings which are very beautiful. This plant 
will well repay the little trouble required to grow it in 
perfection. 

THE OXALIS. 

A very beautiful winter and spring flowering bulb. The 
varieties are very numerous, and are all indigenous to the 
Cape of Good Hope and America. 

The details of culture for the New Holland species are 
identical with those given for the ixia ; we need not, there- 
fore, repeat them; any varieties requiring peculiar treat- 
ment we will notice as we proceed. The soil should be 
sandy peat and leaf mould, and the pots should always be 
well drained. These plants are not universally bulbous, 
some having fleshy, tuberous roots, and it is evident the 
same treatment will not do for all. Some varieties produce 
their bulbs in a curious manner ; the original bulb sends 



CAPE BULBS. 167 

down a long, radicle fibre, which in time forms the new 
bulb, and the old bulb dies. 

We have space but to note a few varieties. 

Oxalis Hirta, O. Flabelifolia, O. Elongata, and O. Amoena require to 
be potted in August or September. 

Oxalis Boweana. One of the best, producing large clusters of bright, 
rosy red flowers during the whole fall. Should be potted in September. 
Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 

Oxalis Floribunda. A variety with short, fleshy stems, just serving to 
elevate the dense tuft of leaves and blossoms above the soil. Should be 
allowed to dry off during the winter, and bedded out in summer, when 
it will bloom profusely for about four months. A native of Chili. 
Flowers rosy pink. 

Oxalis Carnosa will do well with the same treatment. 

Oxalis Caprina. Two varieties, the single and double ; the former is 
preferable, and the freer bloomer. Flowers, yellow and fragrant, pro- 
duced most luxuriantly all winter. Pot in October. This variety does 
finely under window culture. 

Oxalis Deppii. A summer-blooming variety, with fine, lilac rose 
flowers. Does well bedded out. A native of Mexico. The fleshy tap- 
roots of this variety are sometimes used as an esculent. 

Oxalis Versicolor. A lovely variety ; flowers white, with yellow eye, 
rosy pink, or crimson outside ; whether the flowers are expanded (which 
they only are in sunny weather) or in the bud, they are equally orna- 
mental. Plant, in October, six to eight large bulbs (the largest do not 
exceed a pea in size) in a five-inch pot: suspend the pot; the plants 
droop over the side, and are a mass of bloom from January to April. 
Native of the Cape. 

Oxalis Luxula, and O. Luxula Alba, are pretty varieties, to be potted 
in September, and blooming freely during the winter. Flowers pink 
and white respectively. 



168 CAPE BULBS. 

Oxalis Alba, MuUiflora, Ciqorea, Elegans, Palmata, Hirtella, Lasian- 
dra, and Speclosa, are all pretty varieties, worthy of cultivation. 

THE BABIANA. 

This is a very handsome genus of Cape bulbs, with hairy 
plaited leaves, and brilliant flowers. 

They are natives of arid plains, and during their growing 
season will bear much wet, and when dry will not be 
injured by great heat. In their native haunts the ground 
often becomes powdery, and the bulbs lie exposed to the 
fierce rays of the sun. 

The general treatment prescribed for ixias will suit them 
well. The soil should be kept open by sufficient sand, yet 
should be rich, say two parts sandy loam, and one part 
black leaf mould. 

These plants are very subject to attacks of the red spider, 
for which constant syringing is the remedy. It is to be 
remembered that in this " an ounce of prevention is worth 
a pound of cure," for when the red spider once makes a 
home in the hairy leaves it is very difficult to dislodge him. 
Seedlings are easily raised, and flower the third year. The 
following, from some twenty species, are the best : — 

Bahiana Rubro Cyanea. A very handsome plant. Flower very bril- 
liant: colors dark blue and dazzling crimson; leaves broad, covered 



CAPE BULBS. 169 

with hairy down; flowers of long duration, if not exposed to too strong 
a light. A pot of this bulb, in full bloom, is one of the most splendid 
ornaments of the parlor. This beautiful bulb may be procured in this 
country, but not in any quantity. It is often imported under the name 
of Anomatheca Azurea. 

B. Villosa. A fine species, with dazzling crimson flowers, produced 
i:i great profusion. In spite of its name {Vilhsa), the species is less 
hairy than others. 

B. Stricta. Produces lilac and white flowers very plentifully, and con- 
tinues in bloom a long time. The colors are very bright and distinct. 

B. Angustifolia is a pretty dwarf species, with brilliant bluish-pink 
flowers, which are slightly fragrant. 

B. Sidphurea. A fine species, with cream-colored flowers. 

B. PHcaia, with violet blue flowers. 

B. Disticha produces white and purple flowers, of an exquisite hy- 
acinthine fragrance. 

B. Sambiccina has rich, purple, fragrant flowers. 

THE HiEMANTHUS. 

This bulb, commonly called Blood Flower, is not uncom- 
mon, but is grown more for its oddity than its beauty. 

The bulb is very large, often a foot in circumference. 
About the first of September, it pushes forth a flower stem 
an inch thick, crowned by a large bud, which, opening, dis- 
closes a multitude of crowded flowers, of no beauty. These 
soon fade, and the bulb then produces two immense leaves, 
which often grow eighteen inches long and six inches wide, 
hanging down, one on each side of the pot. These wither ; 
15 



170 CAPE BULBS. 

the bulb goes to rest, to repeat the process the next year. 
When the flower bud begins to push, or just before, say- 
about the last of August, the bulb should be re-potted in 
two parts rich leaf mould, one part sand ; give plenty of 
sun and water as long as the leaf continues to grow, then 
dry off gradually. There are few persons, having friends at 
the Cape, who have not received bulbs of this plant, and it 
is quite common. There are many species ; the most 
showy are H. insignis, with red flowers, and a variety with 
yellow flowers. 

THE AMARYLLIS. 

This is an immense family of fine flowering bulbs, in 
regard to which great botanical confusion exists, and from 
which several families have been separated. They are all 
strong growing plants, requiring liberal treatment to insure 
good bloom. The flowers are of many colors, produced in 
great profusion, and will well repay the care required. The 
soil should be richest leaf mould and loam, with a little fine 
sand. Good drainage is important. The pots should be 
large, as the roots are very strong and require much room. 
The species difi'er so much in their habits no general 
cultural rules can be given. 



CAPE BULBS. 171 

As window plants, they do admirably, one species, A. 
( Vallota) purpurea, being found in every cottage window. 

A. helladonna is the always admired belladonna lily. 
Two things are necessary for its flowering : a vigorous 
growth of the leaves, and entire rest from midsummer until 
the flowering season in September. The bulbs are very 
large. Plant in August, in good sized pots ; if your bulb 
is in good condition, about the middle of September the 
flower stem will appear, and will develop from four to ten 
large pink and white lily-shaped flowers, on a stem eigh- 
teen inches high. As soon as the flower fades, the leaves 
Avill appear in profusion ; give plenty of water, light, and 
air, for on the growth of these depends your next year's 
bloom. The leaves will continue to grow until the next 
spring; then the bulb should be allowed to dry ofi", and 
absolute rest be given until the time for re-potting. 

Thus treated, not one bulb in a hundred will fail to 
flower regularly. 

A. hlanda, a fine species with an enormous bulb, and 
flower buds four inches long ; the flower stalk is three feet 
high. Treatment identical with the above. 

A. {Hipjpeastrum) aioUca, a species with a large bulb, 
and dark crimson flowers, marked with green and black. 



172 CAPE BULBS. 

Soil, the same as above. A peculiarity of this species is, it 
should never be allowed to dry off. 

During its season of rest, which is from August to 
December, water should be sparingly given, but never 
wholly withheld. The leaves are long, and of a dark, shin- 
ing green, rising from the crown of the bulb and drooping 
slightly at the end. The flowers are two in number, pro- 
duced on a stout stalk, which pushes from the side of the 
bulb ; frequently strong bulbs will give two or three spikes. 
After blooming, grow the leaves well. This bulb scarcely 
ever fails to bloom, and the flowers continue in perfection a 
long time. 

A. {Hippeastrum) vittata is a magnificent species, with 
white flowers striped with bright rose. In the house, it 
flowers from April to June. It requires a season of rest 
just before flowering, and a soil similar to A. helladonna. 

A. {Hippeastrum) psittacina resembles A. aulica, but 
has six or more flowers in an umbel. The treatment is the 
same as A. vittata. 

There are many varieties of these last three, the garden 
hybrids abeady numbering hundreds. All do well as parlor 
plants. 

A. {Vallota) purpurea requires much the same treatment 



CAPE BULBS. 173 

as A. aulica ; it should never be allowed to wholly rest. 
The soil should be, one part turfy peat, one rich leaf mould, 
one fine sand. Its flowering season is in summer, from 
July to October. It produces offsets abundantly, which 
should be removed and potted separately. A large bulb 
will often throw three or four spikes of eight to ten rich 
scarlet flowers. 

A lovely plant, and very common. 

A. (^Sprehelia) forinosissima. This is the well-known 
Jacobean lily, so commonly sold as a summer bulb in the 
spring. The bulbs should be potted in equal parts of loam, 
well-rotted manure, and sand. The flowers are of peculiar 
shape, of richest crimson, produced in June, and followed by 
the leaves. 

It may be grown as a pot plant, or in the garden (taking 
it up in Avinter), or in water (as a hyacinth), or hung up in 
a room, wrapped in wet moss. 

By growing the leaves well, the bulbs wiU bloom for 
years. 

THE LACHEXALIA. 

These are pretty little bulbs, requiring a rough, peaty, 
and sandy soil. The bulbs are small, but a pot filled with 
the foliage and flower makes a pretty show. The plants are 
15* 



174 CAPE BULBS. 

impatient of water, but after starting into growth should 
never be allowed to become parched. Pot in October, and 
they will bloom from January to February. The foliage is 
prettily variegated with black ; the flowers are produced in 
upright spikes, and are pendulous, high-colored tubes. 

L. pendula is our most common species, with yellow and 
red flowers. 

L. fragrans. Flowers white and red. 

L. quadricolor. Flowers yellow, red, and purple. 

There are many species with pink, purple, red, yellow, 
and blue flowers, all of easiest culture, and all pretty 
window plants. 

They should be grown as near to the glass as possible. 

THE SPAKAXIS. 

This is a genus of splendid flowering plants which have 
been separated from ixia, to which they are nearly allied, 
and which in growth, foliage, and flower they much 
resemble. 

Their treatment is in every way identical with that pre- 
scribed for the ixia. 

The flowers are usually more brilliant and variegated in 
color than those of the ixia. 



CAPE BULBS. 175 

Sparaxis tricolor produces flowers of extraordinary 
beauty ; they are yellow, bordered with rich, velvety purple, 
and this again bordered with brilliant orange. 

It does not bloom until well into the spring. Water 
should be moderately given during growth, and plentifully 
during the flowering season. Its period of rest is from 
June to October. 

S. versicolor, a species much resembling the last, the 
ground color being crimson instead of orange. The same 
treatment is required. 

S. hlanda has pink and white flowers with a yellow 
centre. 

S. grandiflora has dark, reddish purple flowers, 

S. pendula is quite distinct from the above. It requires 
more water, being a native of wet places. The flowers are 
drooping, and purple. It is a tall-growing, very handsome 
species. 

All the sparaxis require rather more sand than the ixias, 
and will not bear over-watering. 

THE ANOMATHECA. 

This is a beautiful little bulb, of only two species, one 
with pink, the other with scarlet flowers. The bulbs are 



176 CAPE BULBS. 

small, and should be planted thickly hi the pot. Soil, rich 
loam and leaf mould, in equal parts. Plant the bulbs in 
January ; the leaves will soon make their appearance, fol- 
lowed by the flowers in May ; the plants will continue in 
bloom the whole summer, and be gems of beauty. Let 
them rest from September to January. Seed is plentifully 
produced, germinates freely, and seedlings will bloom the 
second year. 

There is no flower that will make so much show in a 
small space as A. cruenta. Water moderately ; drain the 
pots w^ell. The only species are, — 

A. juncea, with reedy leaves and pink flowers. 

A. cruenta, wdth scarlet flowers and large leaves. 

THE TRITONIA. 

The plants composing this genus are closely allied to ixia 
and sparaxis. In form, they vary greatly one from the 
other, some being funnel-shaped, others salver-shaped, like 
ixia, others bell-shaped. 

The culture prescribed for the ixia wdll do for them, and 
all are well adapted for pot culture in the green-house, yet 
few -would succeed in the window. 

T. {Ixia) sq'talida has flne, rosy flowers ; T. rosea has 



CAPE BULBS. 177 

delicate pink flowers ; T. miniata fine orange-colored 
flowers ; T. {Ixia) crocata, a very showy orange-flowered 
species, very easily grown, and quite common. 

All the above much resemble the ixia in form of the 
flowers, and do well as window plants. 

THE HOMERIA. 

A race of flne flowering bulbs, of easy growth. The 
flowers are showy, produced in profusion for a long time. 

The proper soil is equal parts of loam, leaf mould, and 
sand. 

The bulbs should be treated like ixias as to potting, 
Avatering, and rest. They flower from April to June. The 
principal species are, — 

Homeria lineata, leaves very long and stifi", marked with 
white and green lines ; bulb small ; flower stem about one 
and a half feet long, producing from spathes single flowers 
of a copper color, in shape very like those of Tritonia cro- 
cata ; single blooms transient, but many are produced in 
succession, and the plants are thus in flower for a long time. 
Blooms in the house about the middle of April. A showy 
plant. The flower has a disagreeable smell ; perfects 
seeds in abundance. A number of bulbs should be planted 



178 CAPE BULBS. 

in a pot to produce a fine effect ; and as the roots grow, 
the plants should be re-potted (taking care not to break- 
the ball of earth, and to disturb the roots as little as pos- 
sible), for the growth of the roots is so strong as often to 
break the pot if it is not large enough for their develop- 
ment. 

H. sjncata, a beautiful plant, producing an abundance of 
yellow and red flowers. 

H. collina, having orange scarlet flowers. 

THE NERINE. 

The treatment of these beautiful bulbs is identically 
that required for the Belladonna Lily. Thus cared for, the 
flowers will be plentifully produced, and by their brilliancy 
and beauty repay for the care aff'orded. 

The soil should be rich loam, peat, and sand, in equal 
proportions, and water should be plentifully supplied during 
flowering and growth. 

N. curvifoUa is a fine species, with glittering, scarlet 
flowers. 

N. coruscans has large umbels of shining, salmon-colored 
flowers, and is our most common species. 

N. sarnensis is the far-famed Guernsey Lily. 



CAPE BULBS. 



179 



The two former make fine plants for the parlor, produ- 
•cing their umbels of showy flowers in September or October, 
before the leaves. The flower of both species have a pecu- 
liar lustre, and glitter like jewels in the sun. 

All these bulbs may be procured of any large dealer at a 
trifling cost. They are admirably fitted for growing close 
to the glass, and do well in long boxes set into the window. 

They are hardy, and will bear ill-treatment ; the primal 
rule is, grow the leaves well, dry off* the plants gradually, 
and you will be sure of a profusion of fine bloom. 





LOWERS, scattered unrestrainecl and free, 
O'er hill and dale and Avoodland sod, 
That man, where'er he walks, may see, 
In every step, the hand of God. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



DUTCH BULBS. 



The Hyacinth : History. — Season for Planting-. — Modes of Growth. — 
In Pots. — Offsets. — Water. — Drying off. — Increasing Brilliancy of the 
Flowers. — In Sand. — In Moss. — In Frame. — In Glasses.— Choice of 
Bulbs. — Varieties. The Tulip: Species. — Classes, — Seedlings. — Va- 
rieties. — Soil. The Crocus : Description. — Soil. — Varieties. The 



(180) 



DUTCH BULBS. 



181 




SxowDROP: Soil. — Species. The Iris: Soil.— "Watering. — Modes 
of Growth. — Species. The Jonquil : Culture. — Soil. The Nar- 
cissus : Soil. — Modes of Growing. — Species and Varieties. 

VARIETY of bulbs receive the 
general name of Dutch Bulbs, be- 
cause they are extensively grown 
in Holland, and are chiefly ex- 
ported thence. They are among 
the most popular parlor plants, 
and are desirable, both from their 
beautiful and fragrant flowers and 
their easy culture. They are all 
winter bloomers, with proper management producing a 
succession of bloom from January to April. 

They will succeed with but little care, the requisites for 
success being procurable by all ; requiring but little space, 
they can be grown in the smallest window, w'hHe their 
cheapness places them within the reach of all. Are any, 
then, excusable for not growing flowers ? Is not the re- 
ward more than a compensation for the trouble ? And who 
is so unmindful of the beauty of flowers as not to wish to 
have them around him? 

The general treatment suitable for these bulbs does not 
16 



182 DUTCH BULBS. 

differ materially from that prescribed for Cape Bulbs, in the 
last chapter. 

These bulbs being winter bloomers, are at rest in sum- 
mer, therefore their period of growth is from October and 
December to February and May. 

They possess one advantage over the Cape Bulbs, that 
of succeeding perfectly in the open border, being hardy 
enough to endure our winters ; but their treatment in open 
culture will more appropriately* fall under a later chapter. 

The soil for their growth in the house should be one 
part very rich, well-rotted manure, one part rich loam, 
one half part sand. They are thirsty plants, and require 
to be liberally supplied with Avater. They are subject to 
no insects, except occasionally green fly, which is easily 
removed by smoking. 

THE HYACINTH. 

All the innumerable yarieties of this bulb are seedlings 
and hybrids from the Oriental Hyacinth {H. Orientalis), a 
native of the Levant, and introduced to cultivation about 
the year 1590. Ever since that time it has, in some of its 
many varieties, been a popular plant ; it is, in fact, one of 
the flowers of the olden time, and claims a prominent place 
in floral poesy and simile. 



DUTCH BULBS. 183 

But even the gorgeous varieties of this species are ex- 
ceeded in beauty and brilliancy of color by the little blue Ame- 
thyst Hyacinth of Europe. The color of this azure gem can- 
not be described. It is the most pellucid amethystine blue. 
The flower is small and drooping, and exquisitely fragrant. 
This little bulb is perfectly hardy, and should be more 
common in our gardens. In growing the hyacinth for 
winter bloom, a succession may be maintained by planting 
a few bulbs every week, from November or earlier, until 
Christmas. Those first planted will bloom soon after New 
Year's, and a continuous bloom may be had until the 
flowers bloom in April in the open air. 

There are, also, many modes of growth. 

In Pots. 

A deep pot grows the bulbs far better than a shallow 
one. These are called bulb pots, and may be procured at 
about the cost of common pots. Fill in an inch of pot- 
sherds, then a few small pieces of charcoal. Prepare a 
compost of rich yellow turfy loam, one part ; well-decom- 
posed cow manure, one part ; coarse, clean sand, one half 
part. Fill the pots with this, and pot the bulbs, leaving 
the cro-v^Ti about half an inch above the surface of the soil ; 



184 DUTCH BULBS. 

press the earth around the bulb, and settle all by a good 
watering. Then set the pots away in a warm, dark place, 
keeping the soil moderately damp until the pot is filled 
with roots, which may be ascertained by turning out the 
plant, as directed in a previous chapter. Then bring the 
plant to the light. The shoot will probably be an inch 
high, and pure white, but in a few days it will become 
green, and grow with great rapidity ; the flower spike will 
soon show, and with plenty of light and heat, a few weeks 
will suffice to give a fine display of bloom. 

Offsets should be removed as soon as they appear, by 
running the thumb nail down the side of the bulb, and 
pressing them off; if large enough to flower, or of fine 
varieties, they should be set in small pots, where they will 
soon make roots, and in time form fine blooming bulbs. 

Water very liberally after the bulbs are brought to the 
light. 

As soon as the flowers fade, and the tips of the leaves 
begin to turn yellow, water should be gradually withheld, 
and the bulbs thus dried off. When dry, the earth should 
be carefully shaken off, and the dry bulb put away for the 
next autumn's planting. 

This is, however, seldom done, the bulbs being so cheap 



DUTCH BULBS. 185 

*' it is too mucli trouble ; " so, after flowering, they are usu- 
ally thrown away or rapidly dried, and in the spring set out 
in the flower garden, where they produce weak bloom for 
years. If small bits of powdered charcoal be mixed with 
the earth, it imparts great depth and brilliancy of color 
to the flowers, and a dark, rich green to the foliage. Bone 
shavings or horn scrapings assist a full development of 
foliage and flower. If the plants are watered once a fort- 
night with a very weak solution of glue, or a few drops of 
hartshorn added to the water, the same efi'ect will be 
produced. 

In- Sand. 

The bulbs may be grown in pure sand. Silver sand is 
the best, but common house sand mil do if well washed, 
to free it from salt. 

Plant and treat as directed above. The hulbs should, 
however, be transplanted to earth after blooming, and dried 
off gradually. A pretty effect is produced by covering the 
sand with moss. 

In Moss. 

Plant and treat as directed above, and after blooming 
16^ 



186 DUTCH BULBS. 

transplant to earth, if desirable to plant the bulbs another 
season. Water very freely. 

Cold Frame . 

A good way, if one intends to grow many of these bulbs, 
is to have a cold frame and sash. Let it be set on a good 
hard gravel bottom, or some well-drained place ; then set 
all your pots in the frame, placing over each bulb a small 
pot inverted. Fill in all around the pots, and half cover 
the small pot with tan or fine coal ashes. Cover up your 
frame, and unless the plants, by becoming dry, need a 
watering, you have nothing more to do. Suppose this is 
done by the first of October, they will be sufficiently for- 
ward to bring into the house about the middle of Novem- 
ber. But as frost will not hurt them while covered up in 
the bed, bring in a few as wanted, and thus maintain a 
succession of bloom. This treatment does admirably for 
all Dutch bulbs. The frame is small, and could be put in 
any back yard. It need not be light, nor is a glass sash 
essential ; a board cover will do. The object of the small 
pot is to keep the ashes, and tan, away from the bulb. 



DUTCH BULBS. 187 

In Water. 

When hyacinths are to be gro"vvn in water, choose the 
darkest-colored glasses. It is a good plan to keep the 
bulbs for a few weeks in damp moss, to encom-age the 
growth of roots. Place them in the glasses about the last 
of November, or later ; the water should just touch the 
base of the bulb. Keep them in a warm, dark place until 
the glass is half full of roots. Rain water should be used, 
and changed once a fortnight ; any loss by evaporation 
should be supplied. Care must be taken not to use the 
water too cold; that fiUed in, both in changing and re- 
filling, should be the same temperature as that in which 
the bulb is growing. 

A few drops of hartshorn, supplied when the water is 
changed, help the growth. After blooming, the bulbs 
should at once be re-potted in earth, if the bulb is valua- 
ble. If by any neglect the roots become coated with green 
slime, they may be carefully washed in lukewarm water. 

Choice of Bflbs. 

The bulb should be hard and solid, and its base sound. 
Size is no criterion, some of the finest kinds being always 



188 DUTCH BULBS. 

large, and others always small. Nor can any rule be given 
as to shape, some being quite conical at aU times, and 
others spherical or flat. Avoid those bulbs which have the 
appearance of throwing out many offsets, as they will be 
sure to weaken the parents. As a general rule, choose 
medium-sized, firm, hard, heavy bulbs. If you wish fine 
flower, never buy auction bulbs ; they are but the refuse 
of Holland florists, shipped here to sell at best prices. 
Good bulbs, of fine named kinds, can be procured of seeds- 
men for three dollars a dozen. Auction bulbs will do for 
general effect out of doors, but they never give fine flowers. 
Hyacinths may be prettily grown in large pots, boxes, or 
pans. A small hollow table, made to receive a large pan 
of hyacinths, is a pretty ornament of a parlor. 

Vai^ieties. 

Single varieties usually bloom better than double in the 
window, and are, therefore, to be preferred. We give a 
list of both. 

Double Red. 



Acteur, 


Josephine, 


Grootverst, 


Panorama, 


Bouquet Tendre, 


Rex Rubrorum, 


Hecla, 


Sans Souci. 



DUTCH BULBS. 



189 



A la Mode, 
Miss Kitty, 
Anna Maria, 
Gloria Florum, 



Double White. 



Triomphe Blandina, 
Sultan Achmet, 
Grand Monarque de France, 
Violette Superbe. 



Buonaparte, 

Argus, 

La Majestueuse, 

Grand Vedette, 



Double Blue. 



Orondatus, 
Envoye, 

Laurens Koster, 
Lord Wellington. 



Double Yelloiv. 
Bouquet d'Orange, Louis d'Or, 

Gloria Florum, Due de Berry d'Or, 

Heroine, Croesus, 

Ophir, Goethe. 



Amicus, 

Baron Van Tuyll, 

Argus, 

Emilius, 



Single Blue. 



L'Amie du Coeur, 
Robert Peel, 
Orondatus, 
Prince Albert. 



Amy, 

Mars, 

Charles Dickens, 

Porcelain Sceptre, 



Single Red. 



Grand Vedette, 
Mrs. Beecher Stowe, 
Cosmos, 
Homerus. 



190 



DUTCH BULBS. 



Blandine, 
Victoria Regina, 
Voltaire, 
Elfrida, 



Alida Jacoba, 
Fleur d'Or, 
Lion d'Or, 
Soleil d'Or, 



Single White. 



Mont Blanc, 
Paix de I'Europe, 
Anna Paulowna, 
General Cavaignac. 



Single Yellow. 



Heroine, 
Aurora, 
Victor Hugo, 
Prince of Orange. 



THE TULIP. 

Probably no flower has been so much the object of com- 
mercial speculation as the Tulip. There was a time when 
a single root, of a fine variety, was held at a far higher price 
than its weight in gold. To such an extent did the mania 
increase, that houses, farms, and all species of property were 
bargained for a bed of tulips ; and all kinds of absurdities 
were committed, which are well detailed in the story of the 
" Tulip Mania," in the History of Popular Delusions. 

The many varieties of garden tulips are all derived from 
Tulijpa Gesneriana (except the Early Due Van Thol, the 
Double Inodorous, varieties of the T. oculus solis, and the 
Parrot Tulips, which are produced by a cross between T. 



DUTCH BULBS. 191 

cornuta and sylvestris). It {T. Gesneriana) was brought to 
Europe from Persia, more than three hundred years ago, 
and was cultivated at Constantinople. Thence it was 
disseminated through Europe, under the name of Turkey- 
Tulip, and was first botanically described by Gesner, a Swiss 
botanist, in honor of whom it was named by Linnaeus. 

The commercial speculation in tulips reached its height 
about the beginning of the eighteenth century, as we learn 
from Loudon ; since then it has declined ; but still large 
prices are often paid for new or fine varieties. 

Tulips are chiefly raised for the market in Holland, 
though in England much attention is paid to them as florists' 
flowers. 

Tulips are divided into three classes : Bizards, or Bizarres, 
having a yellow ground, broken with purple or red ; Rose, 
which have a white ground, broken with cherry color; 
Byblcemens, which are white, broken with purple. These 
classes are subdivided into flamed and feathered, the former 
being those which are somewhat striped, the latter those 
which are only broadly marked on the edge. 

We abridge from Loudon, some facts of interest concern- 
ing this flower : — 

" The mode of raising tulips from seed, practised in 



192 DUTCH BULBS. 

England, was till lately a very strange one, and quite 
unworthy of the advanced state of science at the present 
day. The seed was saved from the unbroken flowers, or 
breeders, as they were termed, and consequently the young 
plants were always self-colored. To make them break, 
that is, to vary their colors, the strangest methods were 
resorted to : sometimes they were planted for one season 
in a hot-bed, and the next in the poorest soil that could 
be procured ; and sometimes they were removed to a 
distant county, twenty or thirty miles from where they 
were first grown, and then brought back again. But, in 
spite of all the care bestowed upon them, they were gen- 
erally from seven to ten or twelve years before they showed 
any symptoms of variegation, and some never did at all. 
A more rational method is now pursued, and the seeds of 
the handsomest tulips being saved, showy flowers are 
frequently produced the second year, and bulbs of three 
years old often produce flowers fit for winning prizes." 

The only species of tulip grown in the parlor are T. 
oculis solis, with red flowers and a dark eye, and T. suavo- 
lens, commonly called Due Van Thol, with scarlet and 
yellow blossoms. These are both dwarf early species, 
and make a dazzling, though transient show. They may 



DUTCH BULBS. 193 

be brought into bloom in December, and a succession may 
be obtained, as directed for hyacinths. The proper soil is 
one part well decomposed horse dung, one part rich loam, 
one part sand. 

THE CROCUS. 

A beautiful race, of about twenty species of hardy bulbs, 
some blooming in spring, others in autumn ; natives of the 
south of Europe and Eastern Asia ; some species grow wild 
in England. 

Our garden varieties, with the exception of the large 
yellow and the Scotch Crocus, are mostly hybrids. 

For blooming in the house the crocus is only valuable 
as an early flower, its blooms being fugitive. A few, 
however, planted with other bulbs, produce a pretty eff'ect. 

The soil should be one part loam, one part sand, and 

water should be sparingly given. Otherwise treat as 

hyacinths. 

Varieties, 

Sir Walter Scott. Variegated. Grootverst. "White. . 

David Rizzio. Blue. Othello. Very dark 'purple. 

Scotch. Yellow. Large Yellow. 

La Majestueuse. White and Grand Lilas, Lilac. 

violet. Albion. Violet. 

Caroline. White. Queen Victoria. White. 

17 



194 DUTCH BULBS. 



THE SNOWDROP. 

Well known dwarf, hardy, and pretty bulbs. They 
succeed well in the house, but a large number must be 
planted in a pot to make a display. 

Soil, loam and sand. 

There are two varieties, single and double; the former 
is the prettier. 

The large Crimean Snowdrop {Galanthus plicatus) is 
very pretty, but not common. 

THE IRIS. 

There are a few species of the bulbous Iris which do 
well under pot culture. The varieties of English Iris (/". 
xiphioides) are tall growers, and are awkward parlor 
plants. 

The soil required is a sandy loam ; and, while showing 
bud and flower, the plants should be freely supplied with 
water. Treat otherwise the same as a hyacinth. The 
bulbs may be grown very prettily in glasses, similar to 
hyacinths. 

The species usually grown are, — 



DUTCH DULBS. 195 

Iris Xiphmm, the Spanish Iris. With showy flowers of purple yel- 
low, and their shades. Grows about eighteen inches high. FloAvers 
late in the spring. 

Iris Xiphioides, the English Iris. With tall stems, and large, showy 
flowers, somewhat resembling the last. 

Iris Persica, or Persian Iris. A little gem. Very dwarf. Well 
adapted for forcing. Flowers vary from delicate to deep blue. Soil 
very sandy. Requires plenty of water. Does well under pot culture, 
in loam, sand, or moss, or in water. 



THE JONQUIL. 

This plant is a species of Narcissus {N. jonquilla) and is 
a native of Spain. There are two varieties, the single 
and double, both valuable for parlor plants. They bear 
forcing well, always bloom, and their flowers are delight- 
fully fragrant. 

They should be treated as hyacinths, only two or three 
bulbs may be planted in a pot. The soil should be rich 
loam and leaf mould, with a little sand. There is no bulb 
of easier growth; they may be bloomed any month; 
flowers yellow. 

There are florists' varieties. 



196 DUTCH BULBS. 

THE NARCISSUS. 

This is a large family of hardy bulbs, of easiest cul- 
ture. 

The principal varieties worthy of house cultivation are 
those known as the Roman and Polyanthus Narcissus. 

Great quantities of these are annually imported from 
Holland. They require, in every respect, the same treat- 
ment as the hyacinth, and will do well in any light, rich 
soil, or may be bloomed in glasses, in which case the 
water must be changed once a week. 

The bulbs are large, and strong growers ; they have 
grassy or leek-like leaves ; the flower stem comes up in 
the centre, and, from a sheath at the top, bursts at one 
side the bunch of flowers, which are white or yellow, 
with orange, white, or yellow cups. They are very 
fragrant, and continue in perfection a long time. The 
pots should be large, as the roots are numerous and 
strong. Give plenty of water during the growing and 
flowering season. 

The Roman Narcissus is esteemed for its early flower- 
ing ; it is usually in bloom about Christmas. The single 
variety is yellowish white ; the double, cream color. The 



DUTCH BULBS. 



197 



paper-white Narcissus {N. papyraceus) produces very pretty 
pure white flowers. 

The following are varieties of the Polyanthus Nar- 



cissus : 



Bazelman Major. White and yellow. 
Grand Monarque. White and citron. 
Grand Primo. White and citron. 
Grand Prince. White and lemon. 
Soleil d' Or. Yellow and orange. 

17* 




ERE, theie, everj where 
OfTormg up eternal prayer 

To the skies 
Thus may we a lesson learn, — 
Sun or ram some good discern; 
Thus to Heaven forever turn 
Prayerful eyes. 



CHAPTER IX. 
THE CULTURE OF THE TUBE ROSE. 



History. — Causes of Failure. — Pottingf. — Manure. — Selection and Prep- 
aration of Bulbs. — Treatment of Flower. — Planting' for Succession, 
— Single and Double Varieties. 

(198) 



THE CULTURE OF THE TUBE ROSE. 



199 




' OW can I hloom my Tube Roses ? 
They grow well, they produce 
abundance of foliage, healthy 
as could be desired, but no 
flowers. Yet their culture is 
very easy. They will bloom freely with 
but little care ; yet you must learn liow 
to do it ; and this secret was commu- 
nicated to us a few years since by an 
ardent lover of this beautiful flower, 
who proved it by showing us spikes of bloom with from 
twenty to thirty flowers. The tube rose is a native of the 
East Indies, and was introduced about the year 1630. It 
has since been in general cultivation, and is now grown in 

all warm climates as an out-door plant ; with us it will not 

f 
stand the winter. Our dried roots are annually imported 

from Italy, where they ripen their bulbs in the open air. 

The great want of success in growing this plant is 
caused by too poor a soil, too little water, and too little 
heat at the root ; the plant would probably bloom were the 
latter need supplied, but we are not content to merely 
bloom a plant, but must bloom it well. 

A hot-bed is necessary : it may be of the simplest kind, 



200 THE CULTURE OP THE TUBE ROSE. 

the heating material being a few wheelbarrow loads of 
dung. How to best make the hot-bed we wiU describe in 
a future chapter. 

Now suppose the heat is up in the hot-bed, and we have 
selected tubers as soon as opened by the importer, thus 
securing the strongest and best-grown roots, known by the 
size, and firmness even to the top, and the absence of off- 
sets or their marks, being sure that there is no old blossom 
stalk, evidence of exhaustion. Time, about the first of 
April ; prepare seven-inch pots, with the usual drainage ; we 
prefer charcoal to any thing else ; over this place about four 
inches of old, dry cow manure, picked up in the pasture, 
and preserved for future use (the older the better), broken 
fine, but not sifted. 

Then fill the pot nearly full of a compost of nearly equal 
parts of sand, loam, peat, and last year's hot-bed, with a 
slight admixture of charcoal dust ; then prepare the roots 
by removing the outer scale or coating, so as to detect 
embryo offsets. These carefully remove with a knife, or 
the thumb nail, so as to lessen future operations of that 
kind. This done, plunge them in the compost, just cov- 
ering them from sight, and then fill the pot with spent bark 
or tan, and plunge the pot to the rim in the tan, which, by 



THE CULTURE OP THE TUBE KOSE. 201 

the way, Ave deem the very best material in which to plunge 
pots in the hot-bed, retaining well the heat and moisture, 
and, withal, pleasant to work in. Soon, they begin to 
strike root, and the foliage to show its tips ; then give 
slight waterings, until indications of "spindling" appear; 
then increase the water so much as to solve, to some 
extent, the broken manure, and thereby allow of consolida- 
tion, by firm pressure upon the top surface ; watch closely 
for offsets, and, as they appear, split them off by inserting 
the thumb between them and the parent, thus keeping the 
strength where it is wanted. The best practice is to retain 
them in the pots, and keep the pots together in the hot- 
bed, unless they become so tall as to interfere with the 
sashes. Keeping them in pots is preferable to turning 
them out, not only because thus the supply of water can 
be controlled, but because they can be moved at pleasure. 
AVhen blossoms begin to appear, remove them to an arbor, 
or any sheltered place, to secure shade to some extent, and 
thus preserve the natural delicacy of the flowers. On the 
approach of frosty weather, they can be housed without the 
shock they would suffer from "lifting and potting." If 
kept neatly tied to rods, they are not unacceptable in the 
parlor. 



202 THE CULTURE OF THE TUBE ROSE. 

By a succession of plantings, a long season of bloom is 
secured. By planting on the eighth and twenty-fifth of 
April, and the twelfth of May, one may have an uninter- 
rupted season of bloom from the twentieth of July to the 
tenth of November. 

Who shall say the end does not warrant the means ? Is 
any one unwilling to devote the amount of labor to the 
culture of so delightful an exotic ? Truly there is no 
flower which, ^vith little trouble, will yield so large a re- 
turn of beauty and fragrance. The bulbs generally sold 
in the seed stores are the double-flowered variety. That 
with single flowers is far more beautiful and equally fra- 
grant ; it is not so tall a grower, and its foliage is more 
graceful ; it is, however, far from common. 

After the bulbs have flowered, it is the best course to 
throw them away, procuring fresh each spring. Our 
climate is too uncertain to insure a proper ripening of 
the bulb. 

Off'sets bloom the third year. 

The price of the bulbs in the seed stores is a dollar and 
a half a dozen ; they may, however, be imported for two 
dollars and forty cents per hundred, costing, with charges, 
about three cents each. 




comfoit mm to A\liispcr hope, 
Whene'er his faith is dim, 

That he who careth for the flowers 
Will much more care for liim. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 

History. — Species. — Culture. — Varieties. 

Theee is no bulb whicli has so rapidly grown into favor, 
or so much improved by hybridization, as the Gladiolus. 
A few years since, it was comparatively rare ; we had a 
few varieties, but they were little noticed, and excited little 

(203) 



204 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 

attention. But the results of the last few years, since it 
has received more careful culture, and since the fine new 
varieties have been introduced, have been wonderful ; and 
at the present time there is probably no one class of 
plants which promises better for the future, not only in 
Europe but also in this country, than the Gladiolus. 

There are three species of gladiolus {G. ByzantinuSy 
communis^ and roseiis), which are tolerably hardy, and if 
once planted in the open borders will flower M^ell year after 
year, requiring little attention. Bulbs of these varieties 
should be planted in November, and need no protection. 
Perhaps, however, it is better to throw some loose litter 
over the bed, as Boseus is often winter-killed. Plant the 
bulbs in little clumps, four or five together ; they will 
flower finely the next spring, and need no further care. 
The bulb must, however, be planted deep enough to protect 
it from severe frosts, and to prevent its being thrown out 
of the ground. 

G. Cardinalis was first introduced into this country 
about the year 1835 ; it was for a time very rare, but can 
now be easily procured. It is a native of the Cape of 
Good Hope, and in England receives the same attention 
and culture as the rest of the so-called " Cape bulbs ;" but 



THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 205 

we must give a different treatment to grow it in perfection 
out of doors. As a pot plant it is of the easiest culture — 
light and air are essential ; care must also be taken to keep 
off the red spider, which infests all plants of this class. 
The soil in which it thrives most is a compost of about 
three parts of sandy loam to one of leaf mould ; do not 
pulverize the earth, as it is apt to become sodden by water- 
ing, and thus prevent a free development of the roots. The 
plants intended for the border should be started in pots in 
the house, for our season is scarcely long enough for their 
full development and the proper ripening of the bulb. 
Keep them in a cool place until the end of May, when they 
may be turned into a border of prepared soil; they will 
soon show bloom, for in their native climate they are of 
rapid growth. As soon as the leaves decay, take up the 
bulbs and dry them ; moisture or frost are fatal, so care 
must be exercised. Keep in the dry state till the bulbs 
show signs of activity, when they must be immediately 
planted, for attempting to retard their growth in a dry state 
greatly injures the bulb. 

The color of G. Cardinalis is scarlet and white. It is a 
beautiful species, but of very weak growth, and is not pop- 
18 



206 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 

ular, being entirely cast into the shade by larger, stronger- 
growing species. 

Gladiolus Racemosus. Beautiful rose, marked with 
white and carmine. The bulbs are much smaller than 
those of the varieties to be described, but some of the 
beautiful hybrids are well worthy of cultivation. The 
treatment given above for Cardinalis will do well for all the 
varieties of Racemosus, though, if strong bulbs are procured, 
they will bloom well if planted in the open border about the 
last of May. The growth is far stronger than that of Car- 
dinalis, and some of the hybrid varieties are very beautiful. 
"We annex a list of a few of the most desirable, but doubt 
whether they can be procured in any quantity in this 
country : — 

Gladiolus Racemosus Fokmosissimus. Magnificent 
scarlet. 

Queen Victoria. Red, with white and carmine border. 

OscAK. Brilliant scarlet, spotted with white ; choice. 

Loud Grey. Vermilion, spotted with violet and white. 

Lord Palmerston. Vermilion, distinct carmine spots, 
violet and white. 

Lord John Russell. Clear vermilion, large, bordered 
with lake and carmine ; choice. 



THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 207 

WiLHELMtJS. Vermilion, bright, spotted with white and 
violet. 

Gladiolus Psittacinus. Originally called Natalensis, 
from Natal, its native country, was but a few years since 
one of our most popular and admired species. Its colors 
are yellow, red, and green, and it blooms profusely in the 
open border with little care ; it will flourish in almost any 
soil, and instances have been known of its surviving our 
winters. Plant in May, and take up after the leaves have 
been killed by the frost. This once generally admired 
species is now little esteemed in comparison with G. gan- 
davensis and its hybrids, but, nevertheless, is well worthy a 
place in the garden, as its bulbs increase rapidly, and are 
of the simplest culture ; seeds are also produced in profu- 
sion, and seedlings flower the third year. 

Gladiolus Floeibundus, or (from the position of its 
flowers) Oppositiflokus. A most beautiful variety ; color^ 
shaded rose, pink, or white. The flowers are very delicate, 
and produced in long, crowded spikes. The growth is 
stronger than any of the species we have previously de- 
scribed, except Natalensis, and the bulb smaller, and does 
not increase so readily. Cultivate as directed for G. Nata- 
lensis, though, if a rich soil is given, the flowers are larger 



208 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 

and the spikes more numerous. One of the most beautiful 
features of our garden this last summer have been two 
large beds of this species and O. Gandavensis. 

Gladiolus Gandavensis. A very striking species ; 
color, superb orange and yellow. This variety was raised 
as a seedling by Van Houtte, and derives its name from the 
town of Gand (Ghent). It is stated to be a hybrid be- 
tween Cardinalis and Psittacinus ; but Rev. Mr. Herbert, of 
Spofforth, England, probably the best authority on bulbous 
plants, very much doubted the truth of this assertion. For 
a long time he experimented, crossing those two varieties, 
but was never able to obtain any seedlings. At the present 
time it would be useless to revive this question or attempt 
its discussion ; it might, however, be interesting to know 
the truth, for certain it is to this species we owe all the 
magnificent varieties we shall soon describe, and many 
more none the less beautiful. 

The culture of Gandavensis is very easy : prepare a well- 
manured bed ; plant the bulbs three fourths of a foot apart 
each way, and two inches deep ; stake carefully, and the 
bloom will be magnificent ; give them the full benefit of 
the sun, for, if shaded, they do not succeed. A single bulb 
will often give two or three stems of bloom, and a succes- 



THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 209 

sion of flowers will be produced for two months. In winter 
keep the bulbs from frost. Seed is freely produced, and 
hybridization between this and other varieties easily 
effected. The growth of this species and its hybrids is 
very vigorous ; the plants require staking, otherwise they 
are liable to be broken by the wind. 

Propagation of the Gladiolus by Seed. 

The Gladiolus may be propagated by seed ; the sowing 
should be in the fall, as soon as the seeds are gathered, or 
during the months of January and February, March and 
April, in a peaty soil, in a frame covered wdth glass to ex- 
clude the frost, or in pots or pans well drained, and filled 
with fresh peat ; the seeds should be scarcely covered. 
The pots in which the seeds are sown should be placed 
in the green-house or in a frame. 

When the plants appear, and the rays of the sun are too 
strong, shade them ; place them in large pans, and give 
them air, in order to make them strong. When, in the 
month of May, the weather is fine and settled, remove the 
frames which sheltered the seed in the open borders, or re- 
pot, and place the pots of young plants in the open ground, 
so that the first year they may make the greatest possible 



210 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 

growth. When the leaves begin to grow yellow, take up, 
with care, the small bulbs, and preserve them in a dry, 
secure place. The next spring plant them again in the 
open border, at a distance proportioned to their strength. 
The care to be given during the winter is the same as that 
which old bulbs require. The third year the greater part 
of them will show bloom. 

The following is a list of fine varieties of this species, 
with colors. Most of them may be obtained for about 
three to four dollars per dozen. 



Mrs. Haquin. Light straw color, marked with rosy purple. 

Pline. Cherry, marbled with darker shades. 

Eugene Doynage. Dark, velvety red, with white markings. 

Helene. Pink and salmon ; yellowish marking. 

Rebecca. "Whitp, blotched with pink. 

Mon. Vinchon. Rosy cherry. 

Aristotle. Rose, marbled with rosy red. 

Calendulaceiis. Brilliant salmon yellow. 

Jeanne d'Arc. Pure white ; rose-tipped petals. 

Egerie. Rosy pink, marbled with rosy red. 

Ni7ion d' UEnclos. Rosy pink, shading to white. 

Don Juan. Deep red, with faint white lines. 

Vesta. Pure white, with purple lines. 

Brenchleyensis. Deep, blazing scarlet. 

Daphne. Rose, marked with scarlet. 

Pluton. Clear red, shading to pure white. 

Isoline. White, shading to pink. 



THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 211 

Madame de Vairy. White or straw color. 

Clemence. White, stained with currant. 

Archimedes. Rosy red. 

Celine. Rosy white, with amaranthine lines. 

Ophir. Straw color, mottled with purple. 

Janire. Cherry, with white. 

Lelia. Pink, with white shadings. 

Princess Clothilde. Rose, with cherry markings. 

Le Poussin. Bright cherry and pure white. 

La Quintanie. Peach cherry. 

Rembrandt. Vivid scarlet. 

Raphael. Deep cherry, lighted with white. 

Calypso. Pink and flesh-colored. 

Imperatrice, or Empress. White, marked with pale pink. 

Premice de Mont Rouge. Dark scarlet. 

Berenice. Salmon pink. 

Penelope. Rosy white. 

Fanny Rouget. Carmine and flesh color. 

Goliah. Rosy cherry. 

Sulphureus. Sulphur yellow. 

Napoleon III. Vivid scarlet ; white centre. 

Velleda. Bright pink. 

Hebe. Clear rose. 

Vulcain. Dark, lustrous scarlet. 

Count de Morny. Deep cherry crimson, white lines. 

Nemesis. Cherry, clouded with white. 

Lord Campbell. Splendid yellow. 

Surprise. Clear, currant red. 

The above list may seem large, but the difficulty is what 
to reject ; it might easily be doubled, and yet all be splen- 
did varieties. 



212 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 

For a dozen choice varieties choose Surprise, Lord Camp- 
bell, Vulcain, Pluton, Celine, Ophir, La Quintanie, Raphael, 
Kembrandt, Isoline, Jeanne d'Arc, Princess Clothilde, and 
Count de Morny. For the same number of cheaper sorts : 
Penelope, Goliah, Aristotle, Empress, Janire, Nemesis, 
Hebe, Fanny Rouget, Sulphureus, Archimedes, Vesta, 
Don Juan. 

The following should be in every collection, however 
small : Count de Morny, La Poussin, Brenchleyensis, 
Vesta, Penelope, Kebe, Pluton, Calypso, Vulcain, Madame 
de Vatry. 

New varieties are yearly produced, and there are many 
promising American seedlings. 




RESII beauty all aronnd our paths. 
If but our watchful eyes 
"Would trace it, 'mid familiar things, 
And through their lowly guise. 



CHAPTER XI. 



HOW TO FORCE FLOWERS TO BLOOM IN WINTER. 



Violets.— Polyanthus. — Daisies. — Paxsies. — Lily of the Yalley. 
— Hepatica.— Flowering Shrubs. 

(213) 



214 



HOW TO FORCE FLOWERS IN WINTER. 




HEAT pleasure may be experienced 
in forcing plants to bloom in winter, 
though it is one of the most difficult 
departments of Horticulture in which 
to achieve success. There are many 
flowers which resist all attempts, 
while others do but poorly, and others again 
well repay the care required. 

THE VIOLET. 

This little spring flower, always a favorite, from its grace 
and delicate fragrance, can be bloomed successfully during 
the winter months, and this with but little expense. 

Let the season be the last of August ; procure a frame 
of rough plank, about four feet long by three Avide, and 
sloping from one foot to eighteen inches in height. On 
each side, from top to bottom, nail two narrow strips of 
wood, letting them stand about an inch above the top of 
the frame. Fit on to the frame, so as to slide between 
the strips, a glass sash ; the cost of the whole will be about 
three dollars. If our violets have been properly divided in 
the spring, and planted out in a rich, loamy, damp spot, we 



HOW TO FORCE FLOWERS IN WINTER. 215 

have now plenty of plants, each about six inches in 
diameter. If we do not have them, they can be obtained 
of any florist for about a dollar a dozen. 

Prepare a bed the size of your frame, of rich, decom- 
posed manure and leaf mould, and plant the violets in 
clumps, as many as the bed will hold, about six inches 
between each clump. This bed may be below the surface 
of the surrounding soil, or on a level. Allow the plants 
to grow in the bed thus prepared until about the first of 
November, when the nights get frosty ; then put your frame 
over the bed ; fill in over the plants with dry leaves, and 
put on the sash. The bed should be in a place where no 
standing water will settle in winter ; and, in the prepara- 
tion, if the soil be naturally wet, it may be better to fill in 
a few inches of the bottom with small stones, to secure 
drainage. The earth should be banked up around the 
frame before the ground freezes, as thus the inside of the 
bed will be warmer. Care should be taken that the frame 
is tight and well banked, or you may have provided a 
winter domicil for field mice, to the destruction of your 
violets. About a week before the violets are wanted, open 
the frame, remove the leaves, and expose the plants 
to full light. The bed should face the south — that 



216 HOW TO FORCE FLOWERS IN WINTER. 

is, the inclination of the frame should be in that 
direction. 

Have some straw mats, board shutters, or other warm 
covering (the mats are the best), with which to cover the 
frame at night, and on cold, stormy days. 

This mat should be removed on pleasant days, unless 
very cold — for the more light the better flowers — and on 
warm, cloudy days. Guard against frost, and on very 
cold days the beds should not be imcovered ; it is neces- 
sary to preserve the heat as much as possible, as our only 
reliance is on that obtained from the sun. 

The violets, in planting, should be about four inches 
from the glass ; if the beds are deeper, your bloom will 
not be so early, though the flowers, by being drawn, will 
have longer stems. 

With good weather, the flowers will begin to open from 
three days to a Aveek after being uncovered. Every sunny 
day they will come forward wonderfully, and with a few 
frames, there need not be a day, from January to May, 
when you cannot gather a bunch of violets. The plants 
will require but little water, unless the earth becomes dried 
by the heat of the sun ; if kept too wet, the plants will mould 
and rot. When the spring opens, and the plants have done 



HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 217 

blooming, take them up, divide them, — every piece with a 
root will make a plant, — and set them in a damp, sheltered 
spot in the garden, to make plants for the next autumn. 
Put away the frame and sash in a dry place, for fu- 
ture use. 

A good plan is to have the beds laid in masonry; then 
they are permanent, and require only to be filled in with 
compost and planted. 

A wooden frame will, however, with care, last from three 
to five years. 

The best varieties to plant are, — 

The Single English. This is very early and fragrant, 
and an abundant bloomer. 

The Double English. Dark blue. 

The Double English White is pretty, but forces 
badly, usually having a green centre. 

The Double Light Blue, called the Neapolitan Violet. 

It is not well to mix the varieties in the same bed, 
as they come to perfection at different times. 

THE POLYANTHUS. 

This variety of the Primrose, commonly called Cowslip, 
may be bloomed in the same way as violets. 
19 



218 HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 

The plants thrive best in a heavy, loamy soil. A good 
way to grow them is to plant them in pots, and set the 
pots in a cold frame, as above described, filling in all 
around the pots with fine coal ashes, and covering with 
leaves, as above directed. They can then be forced into 
bloom in the frame, or the pots, when wanted, be removed 
to the green-house or conservatory. They are impatient 
of damp, therefore give little water. 

The best way to procure a stock, unless one wishes fine- 
named florists' varieties, is to sow the seed in spring, in 
fine soil, and prick the plants out during the summer ; 
then pot about the first of September. 

The plants bloom in the frame from March to May. 

Fine named varieties may be procured of florists. 

THE DAISY. 

These pretty little plants may be grown as Polyanthus, 
and will give a profusion of flower in spring. 

There are many varieties, — red, white, variegated, pink, 
with single, double, and quilled flowers, and with green and 
variegated leaves. A common garden loam suits them 
well; water but little until the plants begin to grow. 



HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 219 

THE PANSY. 

This pretty species of Violet is seldom grown in this 
country in perfection. Our climate is too dry, our summer 
suns too hot, and the flowers grow small, and we never see 
the fine, large flowers which English florists are so proud 
of. In spring and autumn we get large pansies, but all 
through the summer the flowers are sure to be small. 

Our winters are often very severe on this flower, and it is 
no uncommon thing to have the whole bed winter-killed. 
They succeed best when covered with snow during the 
whole winter. 

In a frame, however, these flowers may be successfully 
cultivated. 

The seed should be sown in July or August, and the 
plants pricked out into a bed in a moist sheltered spot in 
the flower garden. About the middle of October, when 
the plants have become sizable, pot them, one in a pot, 
and treat them as directed for polyanthus. 

They will bloom from the middle of April all through 
the summer. 

The soil should be a rich loam. 

Only water when the plants become dry, and then 



220 HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 

only in sunny weather, as the plants are liable to damp 
off. 

The only insect attacking the pansy is the green fly, 
which is easily removed by fumigation. 

The fine varieties may be propagated by cuttings of the 

young shoots, which root freely in sandy loam, under a bell 

glass. 

THE LILY OF THE VALLEY. 

The Convallaria majalis, or Lily of the Valley, is now 
an old inhabitant of our gardens, and still very generally 
admired, on account of the delicious fragrance of its 
beautiful bell-shaped flowers. As a companion to the 
crocus, snowdrops, hyacinths, and other early flowering 
bulbs, it well merits every attention. To have it in flower 
about Christmas, the tubers should be taken up from the 
garden about the middle of November, or at latest the 
third week. The tubers should not be less than three 
years old ; if more, all the better. The little tubers of 
the Lily of the Valley are of two kinds, those with sharp- 
pointed buds, and those with thick, blunt buds. The 
former produce leaves oi^ly, the latter flowers. 

Now, in choosing for forcing, take the bluntest and 
fullest buds you can find, for it is important every bud 



HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 221 

should give a flower. Previous to potting, it will be 
necessary to decide how they are afterwards to be disposed 
of when in flower ; they may be placed in fancy wire or 
wicker baskets, or in ornamental vases. 

If it is intended to remove the tubers when in flower, 
Avrap a little bit of moss round each, and then pack them 
away, as closely as possible, in pots, or what is stiU better, 
long boxes, previously filled with any light, porous soil, 
the tubers inserted just deep enough in the soil to 
slightly cover the crowns. Over all, place a good thick 
layer of moss ; it assists in keeping the soil and tubers 
moist ; and lastly, pots or boxes, of the same dimensions 
as those the tubers are planted in, are inverted and placed 
over them, so as to keep all dark, as darkness is essential 
to success. The boxes are then removed to a warm place, 
where they can be supplied with a little bottom heat (a pit 
or the cooler end of the green-house flue will do), which 
must be gentle at flrst, but may be gradually increased as 
the plants show symptoms of active growth. Thus, in 
three or four weeks, more or less, according to the treat- 
ment they have received, they will be abundantly furnished 
Mdth their exquisitely scented flowers. They may then 
be removed with the greatest facility, on account of the 
19* 



222 HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 

moss in which each tuber is enveloped, and transferred to 
the vases or baskets. If they are intended to remain in 
flower where planted, the moss may be dispensed with, 
but otherwise the treatment is the same. 

The plants should be kept in the dark until they begin 
to show flower, which will be when the spikes are about 
six inches long. The boxes or pots may then be removed, 
and the plants gradually inured to the sunlight, when the 
leaves will become a beautiful green. 

Occasional waterings with tepid water are to be given, 
as the plants when once fairly started into growth must on 
no account be allowed to become dry. 

Other plants of the nature of the Lily of the Valley, 
such as the various species of Convallaria, Dielytra, 
Uvularia, Sanguinaria or Bloodroot, may be forced by 
similar treatment. 

HEPATICA. 

The diff'erent varieties of Hepatica (Squirrel Cups) may 
be forced as directed for Polyanthus. Some of the double 
varieties, with their lovely red and blue flowers, beauti- 
fully imbricated, are among the most desirable flowers for 
forcing, a pot of any of them being a mass of bloom for 



HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 223 

several weeks. They are also among the earliest spring 
flowers in the open border. 

Soil, rich loam and leaf mould. 

Any of our hardy flowering shrubs may be forced for 
the conservatory with very little trouble. Late in the 
autumn, before the ground freezes, take up plants of 
the desired kinds with a ball of earth, and either pot 
them, or . set them away in a cool, dry cellar. 

When wanted for flower, bring them into the light 
and heat of the conservatory, potting those put into 
the cellar ; water freely, and in a few weeks they will 
be a mass of bloom. 

The most suitable plants for this purpose are the 
early blooming spring shrubs, such as Weigela rosea, 
Deutzia gracilis, Spirea "prunifolia, &;c. 



Jjillttjl 




CHAPTER XII. 



BALCONY GARDENING. 



Situation. — Arrangement. — What to plant. Cobea Scandexs : Autumn 
Treatment. 

(224) 



BALCONY GARDENING. 



225 




PLEASANT summer pastime, in 
our climate, is balcony gardening. 
In England, very pretty winter gar- 
dens are fitted up in the balconies 
by a collection of fine evergreens, 
such as variegated Hollies, Lau- 
restinus, and Acuba Japonica, but none 
of these withstand our winter. 

In England, they never have such burn- 
ing sun and such icy cold as we expe- 
rience ; such sudden changes of temperature as occur in 
our climate are unknown, and many of the inhabitants 
of our green-houses are there hardy plants. It is not 
the winter's cold which kills many of our plants, it is 
the sun. The plant is frozen hard by a zero night; at 
morning, the sun comes out warm, and, while the air 
around may be cold, the plant is thawed ; at night, it is 
again frozen ; then thawed. Is it strange the plant dies ? 
Therefore it is that many plants will grow and thrive on 
the north side of your house, which, on the south, are 
^vinter-killed. The remedy is simple : protect from the 
winter's sun, and your plants wiU not be winter-killed. 
In this climate a pretty display of green may be kept up 



226 BALCONY GARDENING. 

on a balcony in winter, by a lot of small, hardy evergreens, 
such as white and pitch pine, hemlock, and spruce ; but 
even these, on a sunny exposure, grow dingy and suffer ; 
therefore we say, balcony gardening must be a summer 
pastime. 

The balcony should face the south or east, so as to ob- 
tain the morning sun ; there are few flowers which succeed 
in the shade. 

Now, we may either grow our plants in pots, or fit up the 
balcony with neat boxes ; but in either case the outside of 
them must not be exposed to the direct rays of the sun ; it 
would heat and parch the earth so nothing would succeed. 
A good way to prevent this is to make a board lining round 
the inside, and fill a space of three inches with straw, tan, 
or moss, between the outside and your boxes. Fill your 
boxes with a rich soil, composed of one part loam, two 
parts leaf mould, two parts decomposed manure. Put an 
inch of " crocks," or broken pots, in the bottom, to secure 
drainage, and have a few augur holes in the bottom of each 
box to allow the surplus water to drain off. Now, the 
boxes being all prepared, and the season the first of May, 
what shall be planted? 

Yet first, do not plant too much ; you have only a balcony, 



BALCONY GARDENING. 227 

not an acre lot, therefore be content with a few good plants, 
remembering that by trying to grow many you will succeed 
with none ; each plant will crowd its right and left hand 
neighbor, and all will become drawn and weak. 

If your balcony is small, do not attempt to grow shrubs, 
but be content with climbers for the sides, a few hardy 
herbaceous plants, and annuals. If you have plenty of 
room, grow as much as you can without crowding. 

Now, as we said, let the season be the first of May, and 
supposing we have a sizable balcony, all fitted with boxes 
filled with prepared soil, what shall we plant ? 

First, a Weigela rosea, — one of those beautiful exotic 
shrubs introduced from China, and bearing, in June, lovely 
bunches of pink flowers changing to white. Let us set 
this in one outside corner, and on the other side, to match it, 
plant a Spirea prunifolia, a beautiful species, which, about 
the middle of May, puts on an emerald jacket, and buttons 
it with innumerable silver white buttons. Let us now 
select climbers to grow up over the window, to be planted 
at each side, close to the wall of the house. We need 
something that will endure the hottest sun without injury, 
for our wall is of brick, and a July sun against a brick wall 
is very often scorching. It will be too hot for honeysuckles 



228 BALCONY GARDENING. 

or woody- climbers, unless we shade them for several years, 
until they get well established, and can cover the walls 
with their leaves. Morning Glories would suffer, and Nas- 
turtiums be dried up by the heat. We must have a stove 
climber, or certainly one which will endure great heat, and 
there is just the plant we need, and very common too, one 
withal with which the common complaint is it does not 
flower. We can, however, flower it, and if the season be 
long, ripen seed, for we have what it needs, heat. 

Let us, then, get two or more plants of the climbing 
Cobea ((7. scandens). It is better to buy plants than raise 
seedlings ; you thereby gain a month. The plant is a rank 
grower, with stout, herbaceous stems, and fine thick foliage, 
and produces large, purple bell, or rather cupped flowers, all 
summer. These flowers are very showy, and with plenty 
of heat color finely. Set the plants in a rich soil, and be 
sure they have plenty of water ; they are rapid growers, 
and will, in luxuriance, almost equal the famous bean stalk 
of the fairy tale. 

A trellis must be provided ; those of small wire are the 
best. Place it where you will, the cobea will follow, for 
the plant grows twenty feet in a season. There it will 
bloom and hang with long festoons of foliage, gay with 



BALCONY GARDENING. 229 

purple blossoms and fantastic seeds. But give plenty of 
water ; it is a thirsty plant, and in a situation like ours will 
drink largely. The first frost will, however, turn it black, 
so if we want the permanent climbers, the cobea will 
prove a good nurse for them. Plant them with the cobea ; 
it will shelter them, but be careful not to let it kill them by 
its exhausting the soil, filling the box with roots, or twining 
around them. 

Now, we need climbers for the sides of our balcony, and 
they should be planted close to the outside of our box, and 
here we have a large list to choose from. Maurandia Bar- 
clayana, with blue, foxglove shaped flowers, is a little gem 
of a twiner ; then there is M. rosea, with pink, and M. 
alba, with white flowers. These should be raised from 
cuttings, or plants purchased. Seedlings do not bloom till 
late, and we wish flowers all summer. 

Then we have the large family of Nasturtiums, both the 
large and small flowered varieties ; these all do well ; then 
scarlet beans, morning glories, the pretty little cypress vine, 
the canary bird flower {Tropceolum aduncum), sweet peas, 
and that pretty vine commonly known as Madeira vine, 
which comes from tuberous roots, which may be any where 
procured. 

20 



230 BALCONY GARDENING. 

In fine, any of our annual garden climbers, or the more 
tender green-house summer bloomers, such as Loasa, Ca- 
lampelis, Physianthus, and a host of others, will succeed. 
To fill our boxes we have now a host of annuals, biennials, 
and herbaceous plants to choose from ; and here we are at 
fault. To give a list of all pretty and desirable, would 
exceed the limits of this work, and tastes and fancies differ 
so much that to select is difficult. Mignonette, Indian 
Pinks, Sweet AUyssum, Drummond's Annual Phlox, and 
Nemophila, will please all. These from seed. For bedding 
plants, Verbenas and Heliotropes, and if you have room, a 
scarlet Salvia. For herbaceous plants, a Larkspur {D. for- 
mosum is the best), Dielytra, and for early spring some 
clumps of dwarf Iris, and a plant of Bloodroot. 

We must find room for a few of the fine hybrid Gladi- 
olus ; if we can have but two, let us choose Penelope and 
Brenchleyensis for vigorous growth and fine contrasts of 
color. Then a half dozen of the gay Tiger fiower, of the 
two species, red and yellow, (T. pavonia and conchiflora) 
will occupy but litile space, and make a fine show. 

Now, with one third of the plants we have mentioned, 
the largest balcony \vould be overstocked, and with a judi- 
cious selection all will be gay until the frost kills out-door 
flowers. 



BALCONY GARDENING. 231 

Then prepare for winter ; dig over the boxes, pulling up 
roots of dead plants, being careful not to disturb perennials. 
And plant a dozen good hyacinths, fifty crocus, a few jon- 
quils, and a hundred snow-drops, for early bloom the next 
spring. When severe frosts come, cover half a foot of 
coarse manure over your boxes, laying down under its pro- 
tection your hardy climbers, such as honeysuckles, clema- 
tis, trumpet flowers, and wistaria, if you have them, or 
else mat them up carefully in straw or old bass mats. 

Now you have only to enjoy your flowers in the memory 
of the past summer, or in anticipations for the future, un- 
less, with us, you would have flowers in winter, and will 
devote an hour each day to window gardening, or study 
with us, in the next chapter, the Wardian Case. 






CHAPTER XIII. 

CANNOT have a hot-house ! I have no 
room for a cold frame, and no suitable 
window for plants ; yet the win- 
ter is long, with nothing fresh 
and green to cheer me. Is there no way I can grow 
flowers ? " exclaims some one, almost in despair. 

(232) 



THE WARDIAN CASE. 233 

Patience a while, my friend; this chapter is for your 
benefit. 

Flowers are so universally loved, and accepted every 
where as necessities of the moral life, that whatever can 
be done to render their cultivation easy, and to bring them 
to perfection in the vicinity of, or within the household, 
must be regarded as a benefaction. 

But in the midst of the smoke and dust of the city 
there is but one way to have real verdure, in the freshness 
of its original strength and life, and that is, by the culture 
of it in Wardian cases. 

Not only may many ornamental plants be thus preserved 
in full beauty in the midst of a dry, dusty atmosphere, but 
the rarer and more delicate forms of vegetation, which 
refuse the tenderest care under ordinary circumstances, 
readily submit to domestication, and manifest high develop- 
ment of beauty in these cases, if the requirements of their 
constitutions are severally fulfilled. 

It was in the year 1829 that Mr. Ward placed the 
chrysalis of a sphinx in some mould, in a glass bottle, 
covered with a lid, in order to obtain a perfect specimen of 
the insect. After a time, a speck or two of vegetation 
appeared on the surface of the mould, and to his surprise 
20^ 



234 THE WARDIAN CASE. 

turned out to be a fern and a grass. His interest was 
aAvakened; he placed the bottle in a favorable situation, 
and found that the plants continued to grow, and main- 
tain a healthy appearance. On questioning himself about 
the matter, the answers readily presented themselves, inas- 
much as air, light, moisture, and the other requirements 
of the plants, were contained within the bottle. This 
was the first Wardian case. 

The experiment was extended ; the case was shown to 
be self-supporting, and admirably adapted to some kinds 
of plants. Further experiment showed that while the 
Wardian case, as an air-tight structure, was in many cases 
a success, yet for a great proportion of plants a change of 
air is necessary, and thus at the present time the Wardian 
case is simply a green-house on a small scale, ventilation 
and heat being provided according to the requirements of 
the plants grown. 

In a close case some ferns will live and flourish; others 
will maintain their beauty for a time, and then perish. 

In a close case it is impossible to raise flowering plants 
of any kind, and whatever may be grown in such a struc- 
ture will be more or less drawn, spindling, and sickly. The 
glass will usually be in a semi-opaque condition, from 
excessive condensation of moisture. 



THE WARDIAN CASE. 



235 



Let us, however, regard ventilation as a necessity. The 
Wardian case becomes a miniature green-house, and we 
can grow almost any thing. Before, we were confined to 
ferns, because of all plants they bear a damp imprisonment 
with wonderful patience ; but now the field is open for the 
introduction of flowers of the choicest kinds, and by apply- 
ing heat, the working department of plant propagation 
may be carried on in-doors with success. In the design 
of an oblong, rectangular case, graceful outlines may be 
attained by the adoption of the following proportions : 




First, determine the general dimensions of your case ; then, 
whatever is to be its length, let the width be nearly one 
half. If from right to left it is to measure thirty-two 
inches, let its breadth from back to front be fourteen or 
fifteen. The height of the glass sides should be the same 



236 THE WARDIAN CASE. 

as the breadth of the case. Then to roof it, let the 
summit of the roof be formed of four sloping sides, 
surmounted by a flat top ; and let the flat top be as much 
above the edges of the four sides as half the height of 
those sides; then you will have an angular object, pos- 
sessing as much grace as can be infused into the simple 
rectangular design. One side of the top should be fixed 
on hinges, so as to give occasional ventilation. The 
material for the frame may be metal or wood. 

Now, it will be better to have a stand made expressly for 
it, with four legs, and an elliptical arch of fretted work, to 
break the monotony of straight lines. The stand may be 
varied very much to suit individual taste ; light work is 
more suitable than heavy carving. Of course, the prin- 
ciples of art may be applied to glass structures in many 
ways, so as to insure grace of outline. 

The above has only been given by way of example ; 
every variation may be adopted, but it may be remarked 
that imitations of villas, temples, with many corners, and 
fancy convolutions, or any intricate design that may be 
adopted for a Wardian case, is more likely to produce 
puerility than grace. Let the form be simple, and the 
proportions symmetrical, and you will not hereafter fail 
to be pleased with your work. 



THE WARDIAN CASE. 237 

An ingenious mind will suggest numerous designs for 
the purpose, and of these, built structures are always 
preferable to the mere glass dome or bell, as they can bt 
ventilated and arranged with greater ease. 

In England, Wardian cases are often built in windows, 
by removing a portion of the lower sash, and building 
into the room of the required size, with the top flat, 
sloping, or domed, as fancy may suggest. In our climate 
this would seldom be practicable, for our winters would 
chiU the plants ; it might do, however, for eight months 
in the year. 




The simple fern glass makes a cheap Wardian case ; it 
is merely a common glass dish, with a rim, into which 
is fitted a glass dome or beU. It answers well for 



238 THE WARDIAN CASE. 

ferns, but not for flowering plants, as the atmosphere 
is too close. Unless the pan is porous, proper drainage 
must be secured, and water must be sparingly given, 
as it can only, if in too great a quantity, be got rid 
of by evaporation, during which process the plant may 
be injured. The ferns best adapted to these cases are 
those that love shade, moisture, and a close air, but 
even with these a little ventilation should be given to 
prevent damping off. 

A flower pot, with a rim to receive a hand-glass, 
makes a nice little Wardian case ; these could be 
obtained at any potter's, could be made shallow, and 




are inexpensive. The common Florence flasks, in which 
salad oil is imported, make very pretty little cases for 
the culture of delicate forms of vegetation. A good 
way is, to suspend a row of them along a shady window ; 
in some, grow terrestrial plants, in others, delicate water 



THE WARDIAN CASE. 239 

plants. They may be half filled with soil, and the 
seed sown. The daily growth may thus be watched, 
and very many .interesting lessons learned. The flasks 
should be covered with a piece of oiled silk, so arranged 
that it can be removed for supplies of air and water. 
The only matter of importance in the management is, to 
keep the rays of the sun off, or only to allow them to 
shine very faintly, for a single hour's exposure to a hot 
sun would bring destruction on the whole. 

It has been recommended that all Wardian cases 
should have a double bottom, to insure sufficient drain- 
age, as the evil most frequently experienced is sodden 
roots, caused by standing water. This, though a good 
arrangement, is by no means necessary. The proper 
drainage may be secured by broken potsherds and char- 
coal, laid along the bottom to the depth of an inch. 
*The Avater will, of course, drain into this, and may be 
drawn off by a little stop-cock under the case, and hidden 
by one of the legs. 

The depth of soil should not be greater than nine 
inches ; too great depth will give a damp, heavy soil, 
which will be uncongenial to the roots. 

It is also advisable to make arrangements for a com- 



240 THE WARDIAN CASE. 

plete change of the plants at any time. It is, there- 
fore, not advisable to plant your case by filling earth 
directly into the table ; unless, indeed,* you grow your 
plants in pots, and plunge them in the soil, so that they 
may be frequently renewed. The best plan is to have 
zinc pans, one or more, according to the size of your 
case, fitted closely to the inside of the case ; these 
may be planted and changed from time to time. One 
may have two sets, which can be renewed at a neigh- 
boring green-house, and thus a perpetual display of floral 
beauty may be obtained. 

However skilfully managed, a change of vegetation 
in the case may now and then be desirable, and it is 
easily effected by means of duplicate pots or pans. 

The frame of a Wardian case may be wood or metal ; 
wood is least likely to be aff"ected by sudden changes 
of temperature ; metal is less liable to decay. 

The frame of our largest case is of bronze, but probably 
the best metal is galvanized iron. 

The pans should be of zinc or galvanized iron. 

The advantages of the Wardian case may thus be 
summed up : — 

You may grow in them many plants which a single day 



THE WARDIAN CASE. 241 

of parlor culture would greatly injure or destroy, since 
they are impatient of a dry heat. Delicate ferns and 
lycopodia are at once destroyed by the di-y atmosphere 
of our parlors, but develop, in full beauty, in a Wardian 
case. 

Again, you may succeed with them if you have but 
little sun. This must recommend them to residents of 
cities, where the sun often gives but little light in the 
parlors, being shut off by high walls, and where win- 
dow plants become weak and blanched, or are long- 
drawn, ugly specimens, with weak, sickly blossoms. 

Another feature of a Wardian case, which is a source 
of unfailing delight. All well know that a winter bouquet, 
as procured from a florist, in a few hours loses its fresh- 
ness and beauty, and a few days are sufficient to convert 
it into a dry, unsightly mass. If the bouquet be placed 
inside a Wardian case it will preserve its freshness for a 
long time. It is better, however, to arrange the flowers 
in a shallow dish of water, taking care the petals do not 
touch the water, as thus they would soon mould ; if the 
stems are inserted in a dish of wet sand, or merely 
in the earth of the case, it will answer every purpose. 
Our only care with camellias is to place them on the surface 
21 



^ 



242 THE WARDIAN CASE. 

of the soil. The water in the dish does not become foul 
unless the flowers begin to decay; should this be the 
case, a little powdered charcoal will at once arrest the 
tendency. 

We have found many flowers to last very long in per- 
fection. Thus, camellias, two weeks; azaleas, from two 
to four weeks ; daphne, ten days ; allamanda, four days ; 
the scarlet bracts of poinsettia, six weeks ; heath, from 
one to three weeks; roses, five days;, diosma (the green 
sprigs), four weeks; chorizema, one week; cyclamen, 
three weeks; mahernia, eight days; cinerarias, two weeks; 
calceolarias, one week; pinks, ten days; heliotropes, and 
other thin-petalled flowers, three to six days; geraniums, 
from six to ten days ; orchids, such as Cattleya and 
Oncidium, from six to ten days. Care must be taken 
not to have the case so damp as to cause mould to 
collect on the flowers ; experience will be the best teacher 
in this respect. 

A very simple case may be constructed by procuring a 
shallow, round, glass dish, about two feet in diameter; 
set in this a glass dish two sizes smaller, and about three 
or four inches deep ; fill the outer dish Mdth water, 
the inner with earth, and plant your ferns. Procure a 



THE WARDIAN CASE. 243 

hemisphere of glass, large enough to cover the smaller 
dish, and to rest its rim on the water of the larger. 
The water prevents the admission of air, and the only- 
care is to see that it never entirely evaporates from 
the outer dish. Your case is done; and with a little 
ventilation, your plants will grow with a vigor and 
freshness unknown to you before. These common cases 
may be made of any size, and any clear glass will do as 
a cover. The lower dishes may be common stone ware, 
and the cover one of the glasses used by confection- 
ers to cover cake, or what is better, a common plain or 
tubulated receiver, which may be procured at any glass 
house, or of any dealer in chemical ware. 






.... By placid lakes, 
Deep in the forest's leafy shade, 
Wave-plumaged ferns and filmy brakes 
In verdant tracery arrayed. 



CHAPTER XIV 




^N tlie matter of ven- \^ 
tilation of Wardian '%^^^ 
cases, too little is un- 
derstood. Ferns, and a few kindred plants, may be grown 
in air-tight cases, but there is no objection to occasionally 
admitting air to a Wardian case. 

(244) 



STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 245 

The principal care necessary is to see that the case 
does not suffer from want of water. The moment the 
door is opened, or the glass raised, the moisture, which 
was suspended in the air, or condensed on the sides 
of the case, flies off, and an equalization of temperature 
begins between the air in the case and that in the room. 
That in the case soon parts with its moisture, and becomes 
dry and unfit to sustain the plants in health and beauty, 
unless the earth in the case is again watered. When too 
much water has been given (which is readily seen by the 
glass always remaining clouded), opening the door and 
admitting external air is necessary to the health of the 
plants. In this matter, experience will be the best teacher. 
Few cases are perfectly air tight, and usually enough air 
will be admitted through cracks and ill-fitting shades, for 
the health of ferns and lycopodia. The advantage of such 
cases is, that they are sufficiently close to exclude dust and 
noxious gases, yet admit of ventilation at times favorable 
for the operation. 

For cases made on the ordinary principle, that is, as close 

as ordinary workmanship will make them,the best plants are 

ferns an;! lycopodia, because these naturally love a close, 

moist atmosphere, and whatever facilities the case may 

21* 



246 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 

afford for the admission of atmospheric influences, such 
fiowerless plants need less ventilation than most other 
kinds ; and even in the case of flowering plants, those 
which prefer moisture and partial shade are the most 
suitable. 

Of course different ferns and plants require different 
culture, but most will thrive under one general system. 
The soil should be one part peat, one part leaf mould, 
one half part silver sand ; small bits of charcoal should be 
mixed in. The soil should be broken, not sifted, and 
should be of such a consistency that when w^et it 
should be crumbly, and not pasty. The materials should 
be well mixed by hand. 

We have also grown ferns successfully in a soil com- 
posed of one part peat, one part sphagnum moss, chopped 
fine, and one part silver sand. 

The planting of the case may be varied to meet the 
taste and fancy. The primary object is to secure perfect 
drainage ; and for ferns, an admixture of broken pot- 
sherds with the soil permits a freer circulation of air 
around the roots, w^hich conduces much to a healthy 
growth. 

If your case is large, and sufficiently high, a miniature 



STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 247 

rockery may be formed, with some graceful fern occupying 
the top, and the smaller kinds clustered at the base. In a 
small case it is, however, not advisable to attempt any such 
effect, but to plant in rows or clumps. 

Care must be taken not to crowd the plants, nothing is 
gained by it. 

Having selected our plants, place them firmly in the 
position they are to occupy; cut off all damaged and 
decaying fi'onds, being careful not to injure any young 
shoots. Level or elevate the surface of the soil, covering 
or picking out any protruding lumps. If the plants are in 
pots, sunk in the soil, draw the earth over the rim of 
the pot, so as to hide it, being careful not to thereby bury 
the plant too deep. 

Now, as to watering. Ferns love shade and moisture, 
but this is no reason they should be shut up in darkness, or 
drenched with water, as is too often the case. As soon 
as the case is planted, give a slight watering with a fine- 
rosed watering pot, to settle the soil. 

Shade the case for a few days, giving free ventilation 
until the plants are established ; if the case is open for a 
few hours each day it will be sufficient. Water thus 
whenever the soil seems to need it, which is easily kno^vn 



248 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 

by the appearance of the plants ; the great danger is in giv- 
ing too much moisture ; . the soil then becomes sodden, the 
young fronds decay, and the older fronds collect mould. 
The soil should at all times he moist, hut never wet. 

As to general ventilation, when the plants are fully 
established : The requirements of different plants are so 
various that no rule of universal application can be given ; 
flowering plants need the most, ferns and lycopodia the 
least. 

Light is essential, and a few hours of gentle sunlight are 
beneficial. The direct rays of a hot sun should be avoided. 
When the sun is on the case keep it closed, unless the soil 
has become too wet. Of course dead leaves must be 
removed, and all kept clean. 

Let us now consider the adaptation of the Wardian case 
to flowering plants. And we must frankly state that the 
case does far better for the exhibition and preservation of 
flowering plaiits than for their growth. 

If you have a green-house, bring the plants forward there ; 
as soon as in bloom remove them to the case, sinking the 
pots in the soil, and they will remain a long time in 
perfection. 

In the selection of plants those with variegated foliage 
are to be preferred, as they are gay at all times. 



STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 249 

Gloxineas and achimenes grow and flower well, and are 
very beautiful ornaments ; these we cannot otherwise grow 
in our parlors. 

Roses, pansies, and begonias thrive well, and bloom 
profusely. 

The grand point in the selection of plants is, to grow 
only those together which have the same requirements of 
light and moisture. Thus ferns and verbenas would never 
succeed in the same case ; the moisture necessary for the 
former would be death to the latter. 

A very pretty stock of plants may be obtained from our 
o^vn woods. All our pretty mosses and ferns, and most of 
our early spring flowers, thrive admirably. They should, 
however, have a case to themselves, as they do not thrive 
in company with rare exotics. These plants must be care- 
fully taken up, and all sods shaken off*, preserving of course 
as much of the earth around the root as possible. 

The objection to transplanting sods with roots of choice 
plants in them to a Wardian case is, you of necessity get 
strong roots of rank grass, which grow so rapidly as to hide 
your ferns and mosses, and are also too apt to introduce 
slugs and worms, which destroy your rarer plants. We 
once lost a flne Maranta by a slug which we introduced in 



250 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 

some moss ; but probably the fellow was unused to such 
luxurious living, for after searching for him in vain for 
several days (his depredations still continuing), we found 
him one morning dead under a half eaten leaf ; his appe- 
tite had destroyed him. 

Our native orchids, the Arethusa, Pogonia, Cymbidium, 
and Orchis do well. The TriUium, so shy of cultivation, 
deigns to live and bloom, and many of our meadow and 
swamp plants thrive as if in their native haunts. 

And now for the selection of plants. 

Flowering Plants. 

Ghxinea Rosea Mutabilis. Rosy white. 

" Cartonii. Pink, white lines. 

" Annulata Superba. Blue, white throat. 

" Grandis. Cream color, plum throat. 

" Wilsonii. Pink and white. 

" Heliodorus. Blue and white. 

" Alba Sangumea. "White, rich, carmine throat. 

" Alba Grandiflora. Pure white. 

" ilaria Van Houtte. White and pink lemon throat. 

" Sir Hugo. Violet purple. 

" Carlo Maratti. Violet, blue, and white. 

" Guido Rem. White, crimson centre. 
AcMmenes Grandiflora. Rosy purple, white centre. 

" Longiflora. Deep blue. 

" " Alba. Pure white. 

" Picta. Yellow, spotted with scarlet. 

" Ambrose Verschaffelt. White, marked with purple. 

" Parsonsii. Salmon crimson, orange centre. 



STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 251 



Achimenes Meteor. Brilliant crimson. 

Edmund Bosseir. White and blue. 



Plants with Variegated Foliage. 

Caladhim Chantinii, 



Begonia Rex, 

" Sir Colin CampheU, 
** Argentea Superba, 
" Queen Victoria, 
" Makoy's Victoria, 
" Funkii, 

" Duchesse de Brabant. 
" Margareticea, 
" Picta, 

Phctranthus Concolor Pictus, 

Caladium Pcecile, 

" Marmoratum, 
" Argy rites. 



" Hastatum, 
" Bicolor, 
Croton Pictum, 
Dracena Ferrea, 

" Terminalis, 
Dieffenbachia Picta, 
Gesneria Zebrina, 
Maranta Regalis, 
" Fascia ta, 
" Alba Lineata, 
Tradescantia Discolor. 



Polypodium Aureum, 
Pteris Argyrea, 
Davillia Canariensis, 
Polypodium Appendiculatum, 
Grymnogramma Sulphurea, 
Gymnogramma Chrysophylla 
(Golden Fern), 

Dwarf Ferns. 



Tall Ferns. 

Gymnogramma Peruviana, 

(Silver Fern), 
Myriopteris Flegans, 
Nephrodium Molle, \bosum'), 
" " (var. Corym- 

Nephrolepis Davilleoides, 
Blechnum Pectinatum. 



Pteris Hastata, 
Polypodium Vulgare, 
Asplenium Adiantum Nigrum, 
Asple?iium Trichomanes, 
Adiantum Cuneatum, 
" Co7icinnum, 

Affine, 



Blechnum Gracile, 
Lomarea Nuda, 
Asplenium Belangerii, 
Davillia BuUata, 
Hypolepis Repens, 
Pteris Tricolor. 



252 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 





Lycopodia, 


or Selaginella. 


Apoda, 




Argenteitm, 


Denticultum, 




Delicatissimum, 


Densa, 




Africanum, 


Wildenovii, 




Microphylla, 


Paradoxica, 




Lobbii, 


Stonolifera, 




Ceesium, 


Schotii, 




Atroviridis. 


L epidophyllum, 







Climbing Ferns, &c. 

Lygodiiim Scandens, Lycopodium Casium Arhoreum. 

Plants for Baskets. 

Tradescantia Zebrina, Pothos Argyrea, 

Hoya Bella, Torrenia Asiatica, 

uiEsch^jnanthus Boschianus, Linaria Cymbalarea, 

" Zebrinus, Ficus Repens. 

" Tulchra, 




HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS. 



253 



CHAPTER XV. 



HANGING BASKETS AND SUITABLE PLANTS, AND TREAT- 
MENT OP IVY. 

HAT a pretty amusement is the growth 
of plants in hanging baskets or 
pots ! It is very popular, and 
deservedly so. The beauty of 
the baskets, now fashioned in so 
many artistic designs, is almost 
sufficient to inspire a love of hor- 
ticulture, if only for the sake 
of growing the plant in so 
pretty a pot. Yet we cannot urge 
the growth of plants in these bas- 
kets ; a porous pot is essential to 
the health of a plant, and most of 
these baskets are china, or glazed or painted. 

Yet they may be used by setting the pot containing the 
22 




254 HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS. 

plant inside of them. Another objection is, that having 
no outlet for the escape of the water, it collects in the 
bottom, and, unless there is very ample drainage, which is 
seldom the case, the roots are rotting in water while the 
surface is dry. 

Potting in these vases is very simple. If the plant must 
be in the vase or basket, fill half full of broken potsherds ; 
on these place a thin layer of moss, and fill up with pre- 
pared soil ; shade the plant for a few days until well estab- 
lished, then hang it in the window, and water slightly every 
morning with a fine-rosed watering-pot ; as the plant 
grows, dispose the branches to fall gracefully over the pot. 
The plants most suitable for baskets are, — 
The Common Peeivtinkxe (Vinca Major and Minor), 
and the pretty variety with variegated leaves. This is an 
evergreen, and produces its pretty blue flowers in spring 
and early summer. There is also a white-flowered and a 
double variety. 

Lysimachia Mummulakia (Money Wort). A pretty 
little trailing plant, with dark, glossy leaves, and a pro- 
fusion of dark yellow flowers in June. This plant should 
be in a shady window. 

LiNAKiA Cymbalakia (Coliscum Ivy). A little gem 



HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS. 255 

of a plant, and thriving well in the parlor. Leaves small ; 
ivy-shaped flowers, like a little snap-dragon, purple and 
white. Should be kept rather moist. 

Tradescantia Zebkina. a rapid growing plant, with 
greenish purple leaves, with lighter markings on the 
upper side, and dark purple below; flowers small light 
pink. 

Cereus Feagelliformis. — A pretty species of cactus, 
with pink flowers in summer, and long, pendulous leaves, 
with close spines. 

Lobelia Gracilis and Erinijs. These, and many 
others of the family, are pretty, graceful plants, producing 
blue or white flowers. Sow the seed in early spring, and 
plants will bloom in June, and continue in blossom all 
summer. 

Nemophila. a class of pretty annuals, with blue, 
white, and spotted flowers. Treat as lobelia. 

Trop^olum (Nasturtium). The various small-flowered 
kinds do well, and are gay with flowers, if the pot is large 
enough, and the soil not too rich. 

SoLANUM Jasminoides. This pretty plant, previously 
described, does well in a large basket. 

Saxifraga Sarmentosa (Chinese Saxifrage). Very 



256 HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS. 

pretty and common, producing long, hanging runners, with 
new plants growing out everj' few inches. The flower is 
white, produced on a tall spike, from the centre of the old 
plant. It is not showy, and the bud, when young, should be 
cut off, as the plant dies after blooming. Give plenty of 
water. 

CoNYOLVULUs Maukitanicus. A beautiful, new Morn- 
ing Glory, with pink and blue flowers, with a white star in 
the centre. 

Pelargoxium Lateripes (Ivy-leaved Geranium). Makes 
an excellent plant for a basket, and will do well with little 
care ; the variegated-leaved variety is very fine. 

DisANDHA Prostrata. A pretty, free-growing plant, 
with long, slender stems, clothed with roundish leaves, and 
bearing small, yellow flowers, of no particular beauty; 
cultivated more for its freedom of growth than for its 
flowers. Grows in any light, loamy soil. 

One of the most serviceable trailers is the plant com- 
monly known as German Ivy {Senecio Scandens) ; it is 
of most rapid growth, Avith light green leaves, studded 
with pellucid dots, and never troubled by insects. As 
a screen for a window, or covering for a wall, it is 
most valuable. It is easily propagated, every joint root- 



TREATMENT OF IVY. 257 

ing if placed in the earth. The flowers are straw- 
colored, and often produced in greatest profusion. The 
plant is a native of the Cape of Good Hope, and has 
been introduced many years. It is admirably adapted for 
baskets. 

IVY. 

This plant, in some of its varieties, is probably the most 
popular ornament of the parlor. The ease of culture, its 
beautiful foliage, its rapid growth, and evergreen character, 
all combine to make it a favorite. 

The soil should be a rich loam ; the richer the soil 
the more rapid will be the growth. Yet avoid stimu- 
lating manures. 

Slips root readily, taken off at any leaf joint, and placed 
either in earth or water; in the latter they will soon 
throw out roots, and may then be transferred to pots. 

The only precaution to be taken in growing ivy is to 
keep it from frost while in growth ; and if frozen, to keep 
the sun away from it, thawdng it out with cold water. 

In summer the plants may be set out of doors, and will 
make vigorous growth. 

There are many species, of which the most common is 
22^^ 



258 



TREATMENT OF IVY. 



Hedera Helix, the common twining ivy, a native of Europe, 
of which there are many varieties. The leaves of these 
varieties vary very much, and many distinctions have been 
founded on these variations. There are two very beautiful 
kinds, the silver and golden, the foliage being beautifully 
variegated with white and gold. The following cuts will 




show how these differ in foliage, all being taken from living 
leaves, though some are necessarily reduced in size to 
accommodate them to our pages. 

The Tree or Aborescent Ivy is merely a form of the com- 



TREATMENT OF IVY. 



259 



mon variety, which is shown by its returning to the primal 
form not unfrequently. The leaves are entire, and the 
plant often retains its arborescent form for years. 

H. Roegneriana is a variety with large, heart-shaped 
leaves, which is much esteemed. 

H. h. digitata, the palmate or hand-shaped Ivy is a 




pretty variety, of rapid gi'owth ; the leaves are small, 
dark, and veined. This is often called, erroneously, the 
Irish Ivy. 

S, Ganariensis is the Irish, or Giant l\y ; the leaves are 
five-lobed, and larger than those of the common \\y. 

Almost all the varieties of nurserymen s' catalogues are 
merely forms of these, with peculiar foliage. 



260 TREATMENT OF IVY. 

The Golden Ivy is a splendid plant ; when the young 
leaves come out it resembles a mass of yellow flowers. 

Ivies are grown in hanging baskets, around windows, 
made to trail around picture frames and looking glasses ; 
indeed, they may be made decorative in the highest 
degree. 

The plants should always be well supplied with water, 
though it should never be allowed to stand at the roots. 
Large plants of the common varieties may be procured for 
fifty cents. The ornamental foliaged varieties are some- 
what dearer. 

If you have ivy growing out of doors (and it will thrive 
if you keep the winter's sun away from it), a pretty efiect 
may be produced by cutting large branches, and keeping 
them in vases of rain water. They will grow well all 
winter, and planted in spring make nice plants for 
autumn. 

The plant commonly known as German Ivy is not an ivy ; 
the botanical name is Senecio Scandens. It is deservedly 
popular, from its rapid growth and its freedom from insects. 
We have, in a former paragraph, treated of it more fully. 

The Coliseum Ivy is a species of Snap-dragon, as may be 
seen from an examination of the flowers, and a very pretty 



TREATMENT OF lYY. 



261 



plant it is ; botanically it is Linaria Cymhalaria, and is 
mentioned more fully in the early part of this chapter. 

Five-leaved Ivy is the Virginia Creeper or Woodbine 
{Ampelopsis Virginica), a native of our woods. 

The Poison Ivy is Bhus Radicans or Rhusi Toxicoden- 
dron, and not of the same family as any of the above. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE WALTONIAN CASE. 

Definition. — Form. — Construction. — Capacity. — Heating. — Lamp. — Oil. 

— Gas. — Pots. — Sand Bottom. — Description of Case. — "Various Sizes. 

— Advantages over Hot-bed. — How to make a Cutting. — Waltonian 
Pi'inciple applied to Wardian Case. 

IGHTLY considered, a Waltonian Case is a 
I drawing-room propagating house. It is 
not a heated Wardian case, unless 
we define a Wardian as a par- 
lor conservatory; then the 
Waltonian is a parlor stove or 
^^^^ hot-house. Any glass frame or case, 
in which the air is warmed by the applica- 
tion of heat, either directly from a lamp, or by means of 
hot water, would be a Waltonian case. 

The first invention of Mr. Walton, from whom the case 
is named, was placing a tin case, filled with hot water, 
inside a wooden box, covered with a glass. The air inside 

(262) 




THE WALTONIAN CASE. 263 

^vas kept close and warm, but there was not power enough 
to raise temperature very much, nor sufficient to root cut- 
tings. Bottom heat which is one of the features of the 
Waltonian case, was at first entirely wanting. 

By much experimenting many changes were made and 
improvements introduced, until now the Waltonian case is 
the best method an amateur can use to supply himself with 
bedding plants. It is a hot-bed, without the dirt and in- 
convenience ; an ornament instead of an unsightly object ; 
inexpensive, and yet accomplishing wonders ; an indispen- 
sable aid to the amateur florist. 

As far as we know, these pretty little cases are not made 
in this country ; they may, however, be imported for about 
ten dollars each, and expense of freight and exchange. 
We trust, however, in our description to be sufficiently in- 
telligible to render their construction an easy matter. 

We can, however, lay no claim to originality in this 
chapter ; we have but collected all the best information on 
the subject. 

Now that the best form, the best measurements, and the 
exact details of consti'uction have been determined by ex- 
periment, no one, however previously ignorant of ordinary 
gardening operations, need find it difficult to produce an 



264 THE WALTONIAN CASE. 

abundance of stock for the garden, the green-house, or the 
window ; for it may be a hot-house, an intermediate-house, 
or a cold pit, just as you please, by a very simple regu- 
lation. 

The Waltonian case is fashioned in the style of a garden 
frame, the frame-work being of wood, with side and top 
lights, a boiler and lamp for supplying heat, and a tray of 
sand, on which the pots are placed. 

To give the reader an idea of the appearance of the 
case, we will at once refer to the figure of one of sim- 
plest construction, which we propose to describe partic- 
ularly. 

The frame-work is of wood, and may be either plain 
deal, or any ornamental wood with elegant mouldings. 
The front and the two ends are fitted with glass, the 
back is wholly of wood, and on the top are two lights, 
laid on loosely. There is room inside for thirty-two four 
inch pots, in four rows of eight each, and these pots stand 
on a thin layer of silver sand, kept constantly damp, and 
heated by the boiler immediately beneath it. The lamp in 
front is a common tin one, burning colza oil. (This oil is 
much used in Europe ; it is a very fine oil, burning without 
smoke, and is pressed from rape seed (Brassica oleracea) ; 



THE WALTONIAN CASE. 



265 



with us the heat may be from a gas jet, a spirit, or fluid 
lamp.) And the cost of working would be about fifty 
cents a week. 

The time the lamp will burn must depend upon the size 
and the care used in trimming ; and to keep it burning 




Fig. 1. 



constantly would require but little care. Having glanced 
at it so far, let us now take the case to pieces. The top 
lights lift off, without troubling with hinges, hooks, or 
attachments of any kind. They are simple squares of 
23 



266 



THE WALTONIAN CASE. 



glass let into a zinc bedding, and with a ring by which to 
lift them. This plan allows them to be shifted, to give air 
to any extent necessary. Having removed these, we find 
the pots standing on clear, damp sand. When the pots are 
removed it is an easy matter to lift out the whole of the 
heating apparatus, by means of the two handles attached to 
the zinc tray, and its appearance is that in Figure 2. 




Fig. 2. 



The upper tray B B is an inch deep, and in this, sand an 
inch deep is carefully spread over. Attached to it is the 
boiler A, which is in reality double, one portion enabling 
the hot air and the smoke of the lamp to circulate round 
the tank, and escape by means of the flue D, to which the 
funnel E is attached when in operation. The tank itself 
being filled by means of the vapor tube C, on which a cap 
fits to prevent any excessive escape of steam. The boiler 
holds about two quarts of water. 

If we turn the tray upside down, we have the appearance 
presented by Figure 3, where F is the boiler, and G the 



THE WALTONIAN CASE. 267 

entrance to the hot-air chamber, into which the flame of 
the lamp enters when the case is at work. 

Replacing the tray, it will be seen that the hole in the 
boiler fits over the box that contains the lamp. 

The flame of the lamp plays upon the inside tank, and 
the smoke escapes by means of the flue G, which conducts 
it out through the back of the case, quite away from the 
plants. Practically speaking, there is but very little smoke. 




Fig. 3. 

The exact measurements of these several parts are in the 
case above figured. Length of tray B B, thirty-four and 
one-half inches ; breadth, seventeen inches. As the pots 
stand inside the tray, and the latter fits the frame, there is, 
therefore, a working space for plants of five hundred and 
sixty square inches. Depth of the boiler A, two inches. 
The entire case measures outside, along the front, thu'ty-six 
inches and a half ; fi-om back to front, eighteen inches and 
a half. When placed at a window, or in a green-house, 
light is admitted only at the top, but the case might be 
made with lights at the back, and additional light would be 



268 



THE WALTONIAN CASE. 



obtained ; but as the chief use of the Waltonian case is to 
raise seeds and strike cuttings, a partial admission of light 
is usually sufficient. 

The Waltonian case may be made of larger or smaller 
size. The following figure shows a case of larger size, 
made on the close principle, by which all is entirely hidden. 
X shows the door for the introduction of the lamp. 




Fig. 4. 



The interior arrangement of the case may appear some- 
what complicated, especially the arrangement of the double 
boiler. We therefore give the accompanying illustration, 
showing the interior workings. 

A represents the boiler ; B, the steam chimney, opening 
into the middle of the case, through the zinc tray ; C G 0^ 
the zinc tray ; D D D, outer cover to boiler, through which 
the heat is conveyed from the lamp round the boiler, and 



THE WALTONIAN CASE. 



269 



the smoke out through E ; F, lamp for heating boiler ; JET, 
tap to draw off water. 

The heat for a Waltonian case should be about seventy 
degrees ; when the sun will raise this heat, the lamp may 
be dispensed with. In managing the case, it is important 
the sand should be kept constantly moist, or the heat will 




Fig. 5. 



not rise freely ; any excessive moisture may, however, lead 
to damping off. 

It is a good plan to sprinkle a little silver sand over the 
surface of the pots containing the cuttings ; it is a great 
safeguard against damping off. It is also important to sow 
the seeds in small pots — the smaller the pots the greater 
the safety. 

23* 



270 THE WAI.TONIAN CASE. 

Those that require the greatest amount of neat must be 
placed towards the centre, immediately over the lamp. 

Watering must be regularly attended to, and the water 
must be of the same temperature as the air in the case. It 
is well to water them with a fine-rosed watering-pot, as 
thus the plants and sand are both moistened ; any super- 
fluous moisture may be removed by ventilation. 

It is really surprising what an amount of work may be 
done by a Waltonian case. In it plants, seeds, and cut- 
tings may be so started that they may safely be hardened 
off for the green-house or the window. 

It has many advantages over a common hot-bed. In the 
first place we are certain of heat, and can regulate the 
temperature from any point up to nearly ninety degrees, 
the ordinary temperature being from seventy to eighty 
degrees. 

It requires an experienced hand to make up a hot-bed 
with dung, that shall give a steady heat for any length of 
time ; and with the most experienced the accidents of damp- 
ing off, burning up, and failure of heat, are not uncommon ; 
but here we have simply to fill the boiler, light the lamp, 
and then keep the case as close and damp as we please, or 
give light and air, as circumstances require. There is no 



THE WALTONIAN CASE. 271 

soiling of hands, wetting of feet, or anxiety about frost and 
mats ; and the most serious part of garden economy is 
brought within a lady's reach and the merest beginner's 
unripe judgment. 

The small size of the case may seem to be against it, but 
it wiU perform such an amount of work, when well man- 
aged, as to meet ths wants of most amateurs. 

Geraniums, Fuchsias, and Calceolarias, may be rooted 
safely, and in quantities sufficient for ordinary wants. 

" Hardening off" the plants is simply removing them 
from the heated centre to the borders of the case, as they 
become well rooted, and thence to a cooler frame, or grad- 
ually to the window. 

The cuttings, if more than one in a pot, may be trans- 
planted to separate pots in the usual manner. 

In all other respects there is no difference in the manage- 
ment of seeds and cuttings in a Waltonian case from that 
employed in a common hot-bed. 

And now to make a cutting. Usually it is very simple. 
Take off a portion of the partially ripened wood (if too 
soft or young it will damp off, if too hard or old it will 
not put forth roots) ; cut it horizontally, or slanting down- 
wards, at a joint, or just below a leaf; it being for verbenas, 



272 THE WALTONIAN CASE. 

fuchsias, and heliotropes, from an inch to two inches long. 
Plant it half its length in silver sand and loam, along the 
sides of the pot, and put the pot in your case. 

As a rule, take all cuttings of soft-wooded plants at a 
joint. 

Some hard-wooded plants, such as Heaths, and Epacris, 
are rooted from tips of young shoots, in sand, with no 
bottom heat. Gloxineas, and Begonias, are rooted from 
leaves. Place the leaves in silver sand, keeping it moist, 
and pressing them close on to the sand. A plant will 
always spring from the junction of the leaf and stem, and 
frequently every nerve will produce a plant. 

The Waltonian principle may be applied to the Wardian 
casfe, and thus many rare hot-house plants may be grown in 
the parlor. 




CHAPTER XVII. 



THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 



Proportion of Animal and Vegetable Life. — Form. — Construction. — Di- 
meisions. — Situation. — Oxygenation. — Sunshine. — Planting. — Plants 
suitable for the Parlor Aquarium. — Limnocharis Humboldtii. — Pro- 
curing Plants. — General Directions. 

T is not within the scope of our 
present work to treat of 
the general construction of 
Aquaria, or their man- 
agement in relation 
to their living tenants. 
Equally out of place will 
it be to treat of the growth of 
or sea weeds, or the inhab- 
itants of marine or salt-water aquaria. 
We can only consider the aquarium, at 
present, as a means of growing in perfection, in the parlor, 
meadow and water plants, leaving for others the pleasing 
duty of describing animate life in connection therewith. 

(273) 




274 



THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 



It is well, however, to understand that no aquarium does 
well unless stocked with some forms of both animal and 
vegetable life. The goodness of the Creator has, in Nature, 
proportioned the one to the other, each consuming what 
is injurious to the other, and both together working with 
that admirable adaptation which ever characterizes the 
works of God. 




Fig. 1. 



We must, in our imitation of the great provisions of 
Nature, in an humble way, provide as she provides, and so 
proportion our animal and vegetable life as to give health 
and beauty to both. For this reason a few of the smaller 
fish, and a quantity of snails, should always be introduced 
into our aquarium, to preserve tho proper balance by con- 
suming surplus vegetation. 



THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 275 

The best vessel for an aquarium is, doubtless, a tank of 
a rectangular form, constructed of glass, with a slate bot- 
tom, and mounted on a stand made for the purpose. 

The simpler the outline the better, because, where we 
have but a few broad sheets of glass, the view is less ob- 
structed, and light, the great essential of success, can pen- 
etrate tb every exposed part of the collection. 

In Figure 1, the dimensions are as follows : Back and 
front, three feet ; ends, one foot four inches ; depth, one 
foot six inches. The bottom is of slate, and the four 
sides are of plate glass. Four turned wooden pillars unite 
the four sides, and four similar pieces bind the whole along 
the top edge. 




Fig. 2. 



If shallower ^vater is required, a square tank, say two 
feet four by two feet four, and one foot deep, would be 
suitable, as shown in Figure 2. 



276 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 

The weight of these tanks, when filled with water, is 
very great, therefore strength is a matter for consideration. 
The joints must be strong to resist internal pressure, and 
the table firm enough to bear the weight. The slate bot- 
tom and ends must have suitable grooves to receive the 
glass, which should be heavy plate or very thick crown. 

White lead putty may be used; there are, however, 
many kinds of water-proof cement equally good. 

The most elegant outline of straight lines and right 
angles will be attained by giving the tank the form of 
the double cube, in which the length is exactly double 
that of the width, the width and depth being equal. 

A window is the proper place for the aquarium. An 
abundance of light promotes the growth of the plants, 
and secures that succession of tiny globules which the 
vegetation sends up from the bottom, and which in the 
sunlight rise rapidly to the surface. This is one of 
the prettiest features of an aquarium. These bubbles, 
which ascend from some plants in continuous streams, are 
globules of oxygen, and are produced by the plants which 
decompose the water into its elements, retaining the 
hydrogen for their own growth, and liberating the oxygen. 

When there is no sufficient exposure to the sun, none of 



THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. ^ 277 

this aeration takes place; the oxygen of the water is 
exhausted, the plants become diseased, and the aquarium 
is a failure. The difficulty is, to give sufficient light, 
without affording too much. 

Occasional sunshine, if gentle, is essential, but if the 
water becomes heated, the vegetation will be injured and 
the animal life be destroyed. A shade, sufficient to admit 
the light, but to retard the fierce rays of the sun, will be 
beneficial. 

Ground glass, or oiled paper, may be used ; in fact, 
any thing that will admit light without heat. 

Suppose we have constructed our aquarium. The bot- 
tom may be formed of loam and sand, or of small pebbles 
and sand, in which almost any aquatic plant will flourish. 

In planting, remove a few pebbles, lay out the roots, and, 
by replacing the pebbles, hold them in their place. 

For ordinary tanks, almost any of the common aquatic 
plants found in brooks or ponds will be suitable. 

It is an interesting fact, that the coarsest plants soon 
adapt themselves to circumstances, and that their growth 
becomes more delicate. The common Pond weed (Pota- 
mogeton) appears too rank a plant for an aquarium, 
but in less than a month its character becomes changed ; 
24 



278 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 

it throws out delicate white roots, sheds its coarse foliage, 
and acquires a- smaller, neater, and more delicately veined 
dress of leaves, and is a beautiful plant. 

The same may be said of the pretty Starwort (CaUi- 
triche), which acquires a lovely emerald hue and a neat 
growth. 

The Callitriche (C. aquatica) of our streams differs some- 
what from the European, but is a very pretty plant. The 
flowers are minute and solitary, but the leaf is very orna- 
mental. It is a pretty little annual ; grows in Roxbury, 
near Boston. 

The Limnocharis Humboldtii is a splendid water plant ; 
an exotic, and producing bright yellow flowers in abun- 
dance all summer, of the size of a half-dollar. It is 
probably more easily grown than any water plant, for, 
though a green-house inhabitant, our parlors would be 
quite warm enough for it in summer. 

The pretty white Lily {Nymplicea odorata) of our rivers 
and ponds will do well, but needs a large tank. 

The same may be said of the beautiful blue Lily of the 
Nile {N. coerulea), which will even bloom out of doors in 
summer, but which requires care and heat to carry it 
safely through the winter. This and the Limnocharis, 



THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 



279 



together, make a splendid show. They may be obtained 
at many of our green-houses. 

The Vallisneria Spiralis, or Tapegrass, is a very pretty 
plant in an aquarium, and flourishes well. It is a common 
inhabitant ot slow rivers, and its flowering and fructifica- 
tion are very curious. 





Callitriche or Starwort. 



Vallisneria SpiraUs. 



The Anacharis Canadensis, a common inhabitant of our 
streams and ponds, is by no means the homely plant, in an 
aquarium, which its name implies. The name signifies 
" wholly unattractive." It will do well in any situation, and 



280 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 

grow very beautiful as its foliage becomes adapted to the 
case. 

Alisma Plantago, or Water Plantain, is a pretty plant, 
with varying leaves, some round, others ovate, others 
oblong, and producing small whitish flowers. It is found 
very plentifully in ditches. 




Myriophyllum Spicatum. 

The various species of Myriophyllum, or Water Milfoil, 
are rapid growing plants. Of these, the best are if. spica- 
tum, a common inhabitant of deep waters, and Jf. amhi- 
guum, with its varieties, a native of ponds and ditches. 

The many varieties of Potamogeton, or Pond Weed, are 



THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 



281 



all pretty plants, of easy cultivation. Those most com- 
monly met with are perfoliatus, fluitans, natans, and 
heterophyllus. They bloom above water, and need 
constant thinning, or they would occupy the whole 
tank. 




Potamogeton. 

The pretty Sagittaria, or Arrowhead, producing its spike 
of white flowers in August, should not be overlooked, 
or its near neighbor on the river shallows, the Pickerel 
Weed (Pontederia Cordctta), so conspicuous for its purple 
flowers from July until autumn. 
24* 



282 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 

The Water Star Grass {Scholleria Graminea), is a little 
grassy plant, producing its pale yellow flowers in summer. 
The growth is wholly beneath the water, the flowers only 
coming to the surface. 

The Water Buttercups (Ranunculus Aquatilis and 
Purshii), the former with white, the latter with yellow 




Ranunculus Aquatilis. 

flowers, are beautiful aquatics. The divisions of the 
foliage of the former are particularly graceful and 
pretty, and no lover of beauty who has once grown it 
would be without it. 

The pretty Water Violet {Hottonia Inflata) is a little 



THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 283 

gem of a plant ; the leaves are curious, and the flowers 
rise on a stem whorled at the joints, and are at once 
interesting and ornamental. 

All the Bladderworts ( Utricularia) are pretty and com- 
mon plants. U. inflata and vulgaris are the most common. 

But we are sensible of the difnculty of giving any thing 
like a complete list of the many natives of our ponds 
and streams adapted to the aquarium. These we have 
mentioned are, with the exception of the exotics, to be 
found every where, but there are many others equally 
common, and no less beautiful. 

Our advice to the amateur is, go to the nearest pond 
or stream, transplant what seems to you suitable, and 
watch their growth and development. You will find 
enough to admire in what are called our commonest 
weeds, for the many species of water plants have been 
sadly neglected, and their beauty is not appreciated. 

Some bloom above, some below the water; some pro- 
duce foliage floating on the surface, others have it 
suspended in the water. New plants will give you 
new beauties, and you will the more reverence the 
power of the Creator, by the study of these, his almost 
unknown works. 



284 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 

As we have before said, the great element of success is 
proportioning the quantity of animal and vegetable life. 

The usual rule is, two fish to every gallon of water, 
with snails to eat up any slime or refuse. If well 
managed, the water need never be changed. To attain 
this, you must use only healthy plants, and not too 
many of them, and have the bottom of clean pebbles 
and sand. 

If the water evaporates, it" must of course be re- 
newed, and should it become stagnant, it may be aerated 
by turning portions of it from one vessel to another. 
Of course if decay of the plants takes place, or animals 
die in the water, the only remedy is to empty, thoroughly 
cleanse all, and begin anew. 

The Wardian case and aquarium may often be very 
prettily combined by raising rock-work in the water, 
planting ferns, and other moisture-loving plants upon it, 
and covering the whole Avith glass. 

Where access to water can be easily had, a fountain 
in the centre might be contrived, and the effect would 
be most beautiful. There is, however, a water plant 
which will thrive very well in the parlor, and require 
but little care. 



THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 285 

About the middle of November, procure a large bowl, or 
wide-mouthed vase, or, what is better, one of those fancy 
stands, representing the trunk of a tree. FiU it with 
water, and in it set a plant of Sarracenia Purpurea, the com- 
mon side-saddle flower, or pitcher plant, of our meadows. 

This plant is not only remarkable for its curious 
pitchers, but. is very ornamental in flower. With this 
treatment it will soon begin to grow ; young leaves, or 
rather pitchers, will be produced; the flower buds will 
appear, and all winter the plant will be a mass of 
fresh foliage. The only care is to keep the leaves clean, 
and to refill the bowl when the water evaporates. 

In conclusion, let us say, that in all the details of 
management there is no teacher so good as experience. 
In a volume like the present we can only lay down gen- 
eral rules. The little minutiae, the daily care, the cease- 
less routine of attention, on which success so largely 
depends, we cannot prescribe. Each amateur will find 
those rules suited to his own case by experience and 
practice; but we trust we have, in our limited space, 
said enough to urge upon aU to undertake the study 
of water plants, and the care and pleasure of an 
aquarium. 




PECIMEN PLANTS call for a few words 
before closing this portion of our vol- 
ume, for there is no department of flori- 
culture so generally neglected. To grow a plant, and to 
grow it well, are two very different things ; the former 
may be done by the mere tyro, who simply pots his 

(286) 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 287 

plant in good soil, and supplies water enough to keep it in 
vigorous growth ; the latter is one of the highest arts of 
horticulture, and very few of our professed gardeners un- 
derstand any thing about it. 

The general ignorance on this subject is the more 
surprising, as all are ready to admit the beauty of a well- 
grown plant, and to decry the long-jointed, straggling 
specimens, so often a disgrace to our collections. Yet we 
see our green-houses filled with illy-grown plants, poor, 
drawn specimens, struggling up to the light, and crowned 
by a bunch of bloom, on stems several feet long, and entirely 
destitute of foliage. All this is doing violence to nature ; 
in their wild state, free and unconfined in the open air, 
most plants and trees are symmetrical pictures of beauty. 
Nature does all things well, and art but approaches perfec- 
tion when it approximates to nature. Could our green- 
houses be ample enough to allow to each plant the same 
space and conditions of growth which it obtains in its 
native climate, could we allow free room for both 
roots and branches, each plant would be a specimen 
needing only the free use of the knife to repress 
and prune out too great luxuriance. Nature would do all 
the rest ; a tree would develop into a tree, and when roots 



288 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

and branches were, by a growth of a series of years, prepared 
for the development, the display of flowers and fruit would 
equal that of the same species in its native clime. In like 
manner a bush, herb, or annual would attain all its full 
luxuriance and proportions, and the art of growing speci- 
men plants be simple indeed. But our space is limited, the 
luxuriance of roots and branches must be restrained, and 
the plant, by the cramping of the roots and pruning of the 
branches, forced into early bloom. The desideratum is, 
therefore, to obtain as much bloom as possible in a small 
space. The question, — How is this to be done ? we 
answer, — By growing specimen plants. 

It is a prevalent error that an illy-grown plant produces 
more bloom than one well-grown ; the former may come 
sooner into bloom, but the flowers will neither be as fine 
or as plenty as on the latter. 

There are two methods of growing specimen plants: 
one by confining the plant within a wire frame, and tying 
out the shoots so as finally to hide it completely with 
foliage and flowers, or by tying the shoots to stakes cause 
them to assume a regular position, which stakes are soon 
hidden by the foliage. The other method is, to grow the 
plant slowly, so that the shoots become stout and stiff, 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 289 

the plant bushy, and able to bear the weight of bloom 
and foliage ; the former is best for climbers, or half- 
climbers, but is much used by those who grow their plants 
quickly; the shoots are weak, and without supports the 
plant would have no shape ; the latter is the true way, 
but the plants must be grown slowly, as otherwise the 
requisite stoutness cannot be attained. 

The one tule to be observed, whether in grooving speci- 
men plants for exhibition or for home decoration, is, Groiv 
your jplants slowly. 

We copy a few hints from an English work, where the 
author condemns growing plants with supports, but 
acknowledging that thus more blooms may be brought 
into sight, declares it necessary in competing for prizes, 
as the plants thus grown bear carriage well, which those 
naturally grown do not. The distinction observed in his 
remarks is between plants naturally grown or raised for 
home decoration, and those artificially supported or grown 
for exhibition. We have also, in many instances, changed 
the language, and made many interpolations, in order to 
adapt the article to our own locality ; we wish, however, to 
give due credit to the writer, though in some things his 
statements are erroneous: these we have corrected. 
26 



290 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

The great difference between growing plants for home 
decoration and for exhibition will hardly be realized. 
There was always an opposite mode of treatment required 
in many particulars, but the system of showing has 
become so Avidely opposed to judicious management at 
home, that gardening for the heme and the foreign 
department affect us like two different sciences. The 
necessary preparation for transmission from one place to 
another, and constant jumbling about, has converted all 
our natural plants into artificial ones. Not one produc- 
tion in a hundred is shown in its natural form. We can 
excuse this when we remember that plants have to be 
taken for miles, jumbling up hill and down dale, over 
rough roads and stone streets, before they reach their 
destination, and then have to be got into the carts and 
got home again the same day ; for, if the branches were 
in their natural state, playing freely in the air, they would 
be frayed to destruction by the mere action of rubbing 
against each other. But we must own, at the same time, 
that a plant, with every branch and bloom constrained in 
its place, and bound mechanically to some formal sup- 
port, is no more fit to compare with one fairly grown 
and unconstrained than an artificial plant would be with 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 291 

a real one. It is to the ambition of growers to produce 
enormous plants that we trace the great change which has 
taken place in our exhibitions. 

There is as much difference in a plant grown properly, 
and standing undisturbed in its place at home, and one 
grown artificially in an iron cage, as it were, and all the 
branches and blooms bent about so as to come to the 
outside surface, as there is between the sham flower and 
the real one ; and he who for one moment gives himself 
the trouble to think of the formal, stiff, and unnatural 
shape of plants at a show, and the beautiful free growth 
of the specimens in a private collection or a nursery, 
where there is no showing, will not hesitate to pronounce 
those at a show altogether spoiled for the lovers of plants. 

Nevertheless, those at a show form masses of flowers, 
which in some measure compensate for multitudes of 
wooden legs and iron bird cages. Geraniums, as for- 
merly exhibited without sticks were very beautiful, far 
before any thing we now have as specimens of growth, 
though the prodigies of the present day rank far higher 
as specimens of mechanical ingenuity and skill. The 
system is altered ; plants naturally grown would stand no 
chance against those with wooden legs ; the plants could 



292 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

not be as large, nor could they show so many flowers with- 
out being drawn. As now shown, they are always drawn, 
and legs or supports are given them because drawn plants 
cannot support themselves. 

This mode of exhibition is a perversion of the nature of 
the plant, and we can see no remedy for it unless it is in 
the power of the judges to control it by giving the pref- 
erence to plants naturally grown, and without legs or 
supports. 

In our remarks we do not, of course, mean to include 
climbers, half- climbers, or trailers; we only censure growing 
azaleas on hoops, pelargoniums on sticks, et id omne 
genus. 

The best growers freely acknowledge that props are 
objectionable, for the reasons we have given above, but 
they are necessary while size remains so captivating as it 
is at present, and he is the best artist, we cannot say 
gardener, who can make his props the least conspicuous. 

The cultivation of plants for show, then, involves an 
early and intimate acquaintance with the use of supports, 
and in proportion as a man acquires this, he becomes care- 
less as to whether his plants are drawn or not. He 
stops his plants back that they may make more shoots 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 293 

than usual, or than is graceful, because he wants all the 
branches he can procure to make a surface of flowers, 
and as soon as the plant assumes any thing like a mod- 
erate size, twigs are placed to guide them outwards or 
upwards, and at equal distances ; for all the harm it 
would do, he might almost roll the i)lants about the floor, 
without displacing a shoot or leaf. As the plant advances 
beyond the distance provided for by the sticks or twigs 
that support them, others must be placed there for as much 
more growth as the specimen is likely to make. This 
applies to all kinds of plants grown by propping with 
wooden supports, — roses in pots, fuchsias, pelargoniums, 
geraniums, to many of the hard-wooded plants, verbenas, 
petunias, and many others. 

There is yet another unnatural and yet popular mode 
of grooving plants for show. We have seen complete 
iron frame- works or cages, and inside these the plants, 
such as Rondoletia, Hovea, Eriostemon, Chorizema, and 
many other plants of great merit, crowded, the stems dis- 
torted all manner of ways, totally destroying the nature of 
the plant, concealing its habit, and contriving to bring 
just the shoots through upon the surface 

It is true these cages are made of a conical or a pjTam- 
25* 



294 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

idal form, and by gardeners of taste, as near the natural 
form of the plant as may be, and that sometimes the 
shoots are allowed to protrude as far as they safely can, 
to break some of the stiffness which too many have not 
the ability to conceal ; but constraint seems to be the 
prevailing appearance, and some of the most graceful of 
our favorite plants are thereby rendered artificial. The 
growing of plants for exhibition is, under these circum- 
stances, almost a science of itself, and the chief evil to 
avoid is that of allowing the specimens to get ahead of 
the training, whatever that may be. Strong supports for 
the centre branch, and very little else, will do if they 
are to remain at home ; but for exhibition, the several 
branches must be supported independently, with upright 
props of wood, until the specimens have attained, within 
a season or two, the requisite size ; then they ought to 
have their principal shift, and their "cages" must be 
put to the pot or tub, and the branches trained to 
the outer wires instead of to the uprights. By keep- 
ing this frame well within the rim of the pots with 
regard to size, and allowing for the growth of a few 
inches outside, the plants will soon conceal the obnox- 
ious appearance of the frame, because in many plants 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 295 

even these shoots may be stopped back, and the lat- 
erals make all their growth outside. It is at this time, 
when we may at least either prune back irregularly, or 
leave the uneven growth to make its own way, that 
a good deal of the stiffness may be got rid of, and 
some approximation to nature be made. Epacris, Hovea, 
Chorizema, ; and many other plants which are naturally 
weak in theii- branches or straggling in their growth, 
being assisted up to a certain point and then allowed 
to push naturally, may be produced much better even 
in constrained growth, and may, to unobservant specta- 
tors, appear to show a fine natural cultivation. The 
more robust heaths, ixoras, and many other hard-wooded 
plants, can be \vell grown without much support, if not 
grown too fast ; but if too much excited, they will be 
weak, and need props in plenty, instead of here and 
there one. 

The Fuchsia, which is a favorite exhibition plant, 
may be grown very rapidly, but always at the ex- 
pense of quality. The fuchsia, for style and appear- 
ance, as well as for the full development of the capa- 
bilities of a variety, should be grown in a pyramidal 
or conical form, and full of branches. They may also 



296 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

be well shown, and with fine effect, as standards, with 
an umbrella-shaped head, — a mode of growth specially 
adapted for showing off the drooping flowers. This mode 
requires much care ; it is very difficult, unless the plant is 
grown on a wire frame or hoop. 

To grow fuchsias weYL and effectually the plant should 
not be hurried. It should be strong in the main shoot,, 
and not be so weak as to require a prop. It should, at 
the end of the season, be allowed to rest ; as soon as it 
indicates a desire to grow it should be re-potted, not in too 
rich a compost, and be pruned with short branches at the 
bottom, shorter as we go upwards, till they are mere spurs 
when we get half way up, and tolerably close at the top. 
By growing the plant gently in the green-house, the 
branches of the season will be multiplied greatly, and 
with a very little checking, form a beautiful close cone or 
pyramid (according as the plant has been pruned), fuU 
of foliage and bloom, and with colors in perfection. The 
fuchsia Avill also grow well as a bush. We have, to do 
this, to stop the cutting when it is two inches high, and 
to continue stopping all growth which is too vigorous, 
and all early growth, directly two eyes can be left, so 
that by inducing lateral shoots we secure a bush in 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 29T 

miniature at an early stage, and need only shorten 
such branches as are getting on too fast for the re- 
mainder. All weakly shoots should be cut away close 
home, for they only weaken the rest and confuse the 
order; branches should not cross each other, nor should 
the plant get confused by reason of the number of 
branches allowed to remain. The habit of the variety 
under cultivation should be studied, for there are many 
kinds grown which are worthless; a bad habit is seldom 
compensated for by a good flower, because the fuchsia 
depends for its value a great deal on habit. 

Prince Albert, Gem of the Season, Duchess of Lan- 
caster, Prince of Wales, Souvenir de Chiswick, Madame 
Sontag, and Venus de Medici, are all of fine habit. Few 
can equal them in this respect, while all may lay claim 
to most of the requisites of a good flower. Set them in 
pots, in moderate soil (not rich) ; and after this give them 
only water when they want it, and all the air and light 
you can. They will scarcely requu-e a shoot to be 
lopped; so fine is their habit, that unless accident 
blighted the leader, they would be compact, and at 
their season full of bloom. At the end of the year, 
when, as it were, they had done their work, thej would 



298 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

lose their leaves, and only require to be kept from 
tlie frost; they would want larger pots at the begin- 
ning of the year, all the side branches shortened, and if 
the leaders chance to be injured, they should be short- 
ened to a strong shoot, and that trained upward by a 
temporary support ; but it is far better to save the 
original leaders. The next year's growth would be 
better than the first. It would, however, be necessary 
to thin out many of the shoots, because they would 
otherwise be too thick and confused. They Avould be 
one mass of bloom from top to bottom, and models of 
what fuchsias should be ; but they must be grown without 
heat the second year as well as the first, and as a gen- 
eral rule fuchsias should have no artificial heat ; they 
should be grown in a green-house, though we have 
often seen them out doors ; but the changes of weather are 
too severe for them, and though of brighter and firmer 
color, and more robust growth, they lack much of the 
grace and delicacy of tinting, which is so attractive in 
the fuchsia. While growing they should have plenty 
of water, and be shaded a little from the intense heat 
of our summer's sun. The white coroUaed varieties are 
all of weak growth, and not adapted for specimens ; the 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 299 

double varieties are, many of them, of good habit, but are no 
favorites of ours ; the best of all is Sir Colin Campbell. 

To grow plants for home gratification alone Ave need 
not be at half the trouble, and certainly produce twice 
the effect. We may allow them to grow without ex- 
traordinary support. They have at most to be removed 
on a hand-barrow from the stove or green-house to the 
conservatory, and the natural play of the branches for 
that short distance damages nothing. The shortening of 
branches, the training and general management, have 
reference only to their intended situations, and the prin- 
cipal thing to guard against is, not to excite any thing 
too much. 

Very few things bear growing fast; it always makes 
a greater distance between the leaves, and consequently 
the plant looks poorly. But this is of the greatest 
consequence, because more conspicuous when the plant 
comes into flower, for bloom depends upon the num- 
ber of branches in a given space, and if the branches 
and leaves are more distant, the bloom must be so 
likewise. This is shown very conspicuously in plants 
which bloom from the axils of the leaves, as fuchsias, 
epacris, and others of the same habit. Besides, com- 



300 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

pactness is a great point in all plants; not when car- 
ried to confusion, which should always be avoided, but 
when induced by moderate growth and judicious prun- 
ing and stopping. 

The Hovea, a plant very popular in England, but little 
grown in this country, is never seen in good condition; 
yet its treatment is very simple. We give, for illus- 
tration, the method of growing a specimen, and the 
rules apply to many hard-wooded plants of kindred nature 
and habit. It naturally grows fast in excitable compost, 
but can scarcely be grown with too little dung, or soil 
too simple, so it be healthy and clean. The earliest 
stopping, even when first struck as a cutting, is neces- 
sary ; not more than the pair of leaves next the soil 
should be left, and the eyes, throwing out two lateral 
shoots, give us an opportunity of stopping both at the 
first joint, and thus obtaining from each two more 
lateral shoots, to be stopped in turn for the samo 
number again, and so continuing until there is a per- 
fect bush ; but the plant cannot be neglected many 
days. This constant stopping, until we have branches 
enough, will produce an excellent plant. It is, then, by 
taking off all branches that are in the way, and leaving 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 301 

only such as will help to make a handsome plant, we 
may allow the growth to go on till they bloom ; but after 
flowering, the plant requires pruning as regularly as a 
wall fruit tree, and the new shoots must be watched and 
regulated, and the same provision made for the beauty 
and symmetry of shrub as was made in the first instance. 
Were the plant left to itself, and planted in a rich soil, 
it could be made to grow six or eight feet in a single 
season, and be altogether unmanageable in a season or 
two, because the bloom only comes at the end of the 
branches, and the long under portions are both leafless 
and flowerless. If a plant has thus, through neglect, 
become shapeless and unmanageable, the evil is past 
cure ; the best thing to do is, to root cuttings and 
throw away the old plant ; pruning would not remedy 
the evil, for eyes break reluctantly on old wood, and 
seldom with any regulari4:y. To grow Heaths, as speci- 
mens, requires great care, and the study of the habit of 
the species. Some, like Epacris, run up to great length 
of branches ; therefore, before we allow them to shoot 
their full length, we must, by stopping, secure plenty 
of them. In this one thing lies, also, the secret of 
growing fine specimens of epacris. 
26 



302 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

Others are naturally of a bushy habit, and require 
thinning out rather than stopping. But in all plants 
we have to look well to the growing state when they 
are manageable, for a very brief neglect, only for a 
single season, will give us bare stems, naked under- 
growth, ill shapes, and often unhealthy plants, and the 
best thing Ave can do then is to strike the tops of 
the young plant for young stock, and to cut down 
the stems to within a few inches of the pot, for the 
mere chance of their breaking and making fresh growth. 
There is, however, one method by which we may 
occasionally convert an ugly plant, with long, naked 
stems, into a handsome standard ; but there are few 
plants which look well under such a change. One of 
these is the Azalea Indica, in its numerous species. 
If there be one straight stem among them, cut all the 
others close down, and cut the branches of the single 
stem off up to the part where the head is to begin ; 
top the shoot to cause a side growth, and the head 
Avill soon form well, but until the head is large enough 
to be proportioned to the height of the stem the plant 
will look poorly, and only be fit to remain in the 
plant-house. 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 303 

Fuchsias of some kinds, particularly Corymbiflora and 
its varieties, naturally carry large bunches of blossoms, 
tassel-like at the ends of the branches. The best thing 
we can do is to remove all the side growth to the height 
we wish the head to begin, to stop all the other branches 
to two joints, until we get a sufficient number of branches 
to hang all round, and then to let them grow to bloom. 
The pendulous habit of the plant is favorable to this, 
and the blooms fairly weigh down the most obstinate 
of the shoots, so that the plant forms a pretty object. 

These varieties of fuchsia do not receive the atten- 
tion their beauties merit; probably because they do not 
bloom as freely as others with little care ; but a well- 
grown plant is a conspicuous object in the green-house. 
They also bloom with us at a season when other fuchsias 
have not come on, that is, from February to May. 

In growing plants for exhibition, we excite them to 
what we call perfection by restraint ; for convenience of 
carrying, we limit the size, and thus the number of flowers ; to 
color, by unnatural means (this applies chiefly to out-door 
flowers) ; to compactness, by vicious training. Specimen 
plants may be made of hardy plants and shrubs, and of 
annuals. The pruning and training must be adapted to 



804 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

the habit of the plant ; it is useless to fight against 
Nature. We may succeed in producing a monstrosity, 
but depart far from perfection. To all growers we say, 
study the habit of the plant, and le guided hy Nature, 
never attempting to be Nature's guide. 

Before closing our article, we wish to give a list of 
plants, which, generally neglected, make fine specimens. 

And first, the Camellia, a plant naturally, of most sym- 
metrical growth, with but little pruning will make a 
superb specimen. 

The Daphne Odorata, never seen in good condition, can, 
by a free use of the knife, be made a beautiful plant. 

Azaleas will do well, and may be grown in almost 
any form. 

Acacias are mostly trees, and seldom make fine plants 
under pot culture. Planted out in the green-house bor- 
der, they grow large and look well. We may, however, 
except some of the shrubby species — as Armata, Grandis, 
and the newer kinds, which, being low growers, do well 
in pots. 

Achgenia Malvaviscus : a favorite plant with us, and 
a superb sight when in fruit and flower. It possesses 
the advantage of being never out of bloom. The kin- 



HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 305 

dred species of Hibiscus are pretty plants, but not gen- 
erally grown. 

Allamandas, Kennedia, Stephanotus, Combretum, Rbyn- 
cospermum, and a host of other hard and soft-wooded 
climbers, grow to perfection on balloon trellises, and if 
the foliage is kept in good health, are pictures of beauty. 

Pelargoniums and Geraniums need only to be grown 
slowly, and to be properly pinched to make side shoots, 
and are among the finest plants for specimens. 

Orchids need great care, and the growth is slow; but 
well grown, are most splendid when in bloom. Nothing 
can surpass well-grown plants of Cypripedium, Cattleya, 
Lselia, Stanhopea, Oncidium, and hosts of others. The 
Cyclamen, in perfection, is most beautiful, and many of 
the Cape bulbs, in profuse flower and foliage, are very 
pretty. 

We need not now explore the widely extended region 
of variegated-leafed and ornamental-foliaged plants. Those 
who have seen the Cyanophyllum, Rhopalas, Cordylines, 
Crotons, the many beautiful Caladia, and the unap- 
proachable and unique Alocasia Metallica, need not be 
told what magnificent plants are given us for specimens, 
and to those who have not seen them, no words can 
26* 



306 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

convey an idea of their beauties. In conclusion, we can 
give no time for beginning to grow a specimen ; for soft- 
wooded plants, four or five months will suffice to make 
a specimen from a cutting; but many plants require 
years to approach perfection. The general rules may be 
laid down thus : — 

Study the habit of the plant, and by it regulate your 
treatment. 

Grow your plants slowly, with plenty of light (except 
orchids, some ferns, and lycopodia), and free circulation 
of air. 

Keep the plant from sudden changes of temperature, 
and never let it sufi'er from want of water, or become 
pot bound. Do not be afraid to use the knife freely, — 
prune whenever necessary, whatever you may sacrifice. 

Grow your plant well first, and then the plant will give 
you the bloom. 




HE grass is wet with shining dews, 
Their silver bells hang on each tree, 
While opening flower and bursting bud, 
Breathe incense forth unceashigly. 

CHAPTER XIX. 



OUT-DOOR GARDENING. — HOT-BEDS. 



•Uses. — Time of Preparation. — Construction, — Size. — Sashes. — Manure. 
— Other Materials needed. — Height. — Materials for Potting. — Heat. — 
Planting. — Sowing in Bed. — Permanent Hot-Beds. — Watering. — Air- 
ing. — Protection. 

(307) 



308 



OUT-DOOR GARDENING. 




HE bright days of spring have suc- 
ceeded to the cold of winter. Day 
by day the sun grows warmer, and in 
spite of the occasional flurries of 
snow, the snowdrop nods in the sunny 
border, the crocus goldens the garden, and the 
hyacinths and tulips look out from their win- 
ter's sleep. Our window garden, a source of 
unfailing pleasure during the months of snow and 
ice, and now clad in its spring dress of glossy 
leaves and gay flowers, fails to satisfy, and only makes 
us long for a more extended range, a larger field of opera- 
tions. Even our Wardian case, always beautiful, claims 
less of our time, and we eagerly watch each new 
growth in the out-door garden. But as yet it is far too 
early to begin our out-door work. Did we plant our seeds, 
they would decay in the cold ground ; the delicate roots of 
bedding plants would be chilled and die. There are yet to 
be many days before we can trust to the capricious weather, 
many days during which, little by little, the earth will be- 
come dry and warm under the potent heat of the sun and 
the sweet influences of the vernal breezes. 

But still there is work that may be done, though it is as 



HOT-BEDS. 309 

yet too early to uncover the flower borders, or to turn over 
the still damp and heavy soil. 

We may build our hot-beds, and in these bring forward 
the seeds and plants, so as to be ready to avail ourselves of 
the first days of settled weather, and to insure an early 
display of floral treasure in the flower garden. 

It is out of our province, in this connection, to treat of 
the hot-bed as a means of forcing early vegetables, or of 
bringing forward seeds for the kitchen garden. Suffice it 
to say, that by means of it, if well managed, we may have 
such spring vegetables as lettuce and radishes, from Feb- 
ruary until they mature in the open ground ; and that the 
process of starting vegetable seeds is the same as that we 
employ for flower seeds. 

"We propose but to treat of the flower garden and its 
adornments, and it will be quite early enough for our flower 
seeds if we start our hot-beds about the first of April. 

The making of a hot-bed which will keep the heat, and 
not burn the plants, is by no means an easy task, and 
often, in this branch of horticulture, the most experienced 
gardeners fail ; the process seems very easy, but in this, as 
in most gardening operations, success depends on a careful 
attention to little details. 



310 HOT-BEDS. 

A friend has kindly furnished us with his method, and, 
as we cannot improve upon it, we give his instructions 
almost in his own words, gladly availing ourselves of the 
aid of one who, with his hot-beds, accomplishes wonders ; 
and whose flower garden presents a gayer appearance 
than that of many who have unlimited green-house facili- 
ties at command. 

To those who have a green-house, or a forcing pit, the 
hot-bed is not a necessity. With these aids it is easy 
to raise flower seeds and cuttings sufficient for every 
want. We are writing more especially for those who 
have no green-house, but to whom flowers are, never- 
theless, a necessity. Such must depend upon the hot- 
bed, and we would tell them how to make it. 

And first we must make our frame. A good size for 
our use is five by ten feet square, ten inches high in 
front, eighteen in the rear; with the ends shaped, of 
course, to match. Let these be cleated so as to prevent 
warping, and fasten together at the corners with hasps. 
Let in, flush with the edge, narrow strips at proper dis- 
tances for the sashes to slide on, with a narrower one in 
the middle for a guide. These will accommodate four 
sashes of proper proportions for glass eight inches wide, 



HOT-BEDS. 311 

which should be inserted in grooves, rather than by the 
old method of puttying, as putty soon crumbles with 
such severe exposure. 

Now this work may be done by us, if we have but 
a slight mechanical turn, or we may employ our carpen- 
ter, who will construct the frame in a few hours. The 
sashes can be bought at a low price, as they are always 
kept for sale at any window factory. The \vhole struc- 
ture, including sash bars, should have two good coats of 
coarse paint, which will be most serviceable in protecting 
it from the weather; and if we can contrive to char any 
portions which touch the ground, it will conduce much 
to durability by preventing decay. 

As we design manuring the garden, we buy stable 
manure in March, wherewithal to do it. No matter if 
it be coarse and cheap, we can improve the quality be- 
fore autumn many fold, and be richly rewarded in the 
process. We begin by throwing it in a heap, so as to 
present as little surface as possible to the atmosphere, 
and let it ferment, or, as gardeners say, " heat.'* 

Our frame is made. 

We will now suppose the manure is ready to move, 
and the time almost the first of April, long before it 



312 HOT-BEDS. 

would be safe to put seeds in the ground, and when 
but little else can be done outside. Now we measure a 
space twelve by seven feet (to give a projection of a 
foot all round outside the frame), on a spot well shel- 
tered from cold winds, and open to the snn. Begin by- 
setting boards on edge, secured by stakes, and fill in, 
first with a layer of straw, leaves, or other similar ma- 
terial, and then a layer of manure, beating it down with 
the fork, but not treading it hard. Thus continue, until 
you have used sufficient litter to make it, with the ma- 
nure, about two feet high. Put on the frame, cover the 
outside bank with boards laid flat, fill in with about 
four inches of tan, put on the sashes, and while the heat 
is getting up, we will get ready our seeds, and prepare 
materials for potting. 

We shall want some bits of charcoal for drainage, from 
which we can sift the dust to mix in the soil for potting. 
We last fall secured some excellent peat, laid up a little 
loam, and saved a remnant of the old hot-bed (if we had 
one). These, in equal parts, with a generous sprinkling 
of the coal dust, make a good soil for present purposes. 

In about a week after the bed is made, the heat will 
be up, as we may find by thrusting a sharp stick into 



HOT-BEDS. 313 

it, and we may now begin to sow in pots seeds of such 
plants as are of slow growth, or will soonest bear turn- 
ing out. A little practice will teach us when is the 
best time to start with the various kinds. Plunge the 
pots to the rim in the tan, and the bottom heat will 
soon start the seeds into growth. We see that by hav- 
ing the seeds in our power, we can control heat and 
moisture at pleasure, and will scarcely make a failure, 
unless we are careless enough to leave the glass on too 
long during hot sunshine. 

Here, too, we will start such summer bulbs and tubers 
as require a season longer than ours, and of others, a 
few, to secure a longer season of bloom. Soon we be- 
gin to " prick out" the young plants, and "pot off" and 
" shift," in order that they may have a freer growth than 
they could attain if aU grown in one pot, and as they 
are thus sure to become more stocky, of better habit, 
and larger size. 

To watch carefully to prevent burning, to water as 

may be necessary, to give air to prevent damping off, 

and to close before nightfall, covering with mats, are 

amongst our cares ; until now, the ground is warm enough 

27 



314 HOT-BEDS. 

to begin to "turn out" the young plants, — which opera- 
tion brings us to the out-door garden. 

The duty of the hot-bed is done ; and we have now 
only to store away frame and sashes in a dry place for 
another spring. 

We have said, plant the seeds in pots. This is the 
best plan, as thus the young plants suffer less in trans- 
planting ; but we may sow the seed directly in the hot- 
bed. To do this, sift fine rich loam on the manure 
(instead of the tan, as above directed), and in this, plant 
the seeds in drills : the loam should be about eight inches 
deep, and the seed should not be sown for a few days, 
in order to let the fierce heat and steam pass off. A 
far better and more durable hot-bed may be constructed 
of masonry. Excavate trenches of proper depth, below 
the reach of frost, and build up walls of solid rough 
stone, to about eighteen inches above the ground be- 
hind, and eight inches in front ; or, if preferred, the walls 
above ground may be of brick laid in cement ; on these 
walls place the sill and cross bars for the sliding sash; 
fill in the manure and loam, or tan, and manage as 
above. A hot-bed, constructed as thus directed, will last 
for twenty years; and even if not wanted for a hot-bed. 



HOT-BEDS. 



315 



is very useful for growing violets and polyanthus for 
early blooming, as directed in a former chapter, or for 
protecting roses and half-hardy plants during the winter. 
The accompanying figure may give an idea of its appear- 
ance. 




Watering. 

A hot-bed should be watered when the soil becomes 
dry. The rule is, keep the soil moist but not wet. Never 
water when the sun is on the plants, unless you water 
only the soil, and do not allow a drop of water to 
touch the foliage of the plants. Morning and evening 
are the best times for watering ; but watering should 
never be done on a cold, freezing day. The water used 
should be of a moderate temperature ; cold, icy water 
injures the plants. 



316 HOT-BEDS. 



AlEING. 



Air should be freely given when the weather is warm 
and sunny ; on cold, cloudy days the sashes should be 
kept closed unless it is necessary to get rid of damp, 
which may be effected by opening the frame about an 
inch at the top. If the weather is very cold, the mats 
should not be removed from the sashes. 

The best way to ventilate is to draw the sash down 
from the top. If, however, more air is required, prop 
up the sides ; which, by securing a draught through, 
will effectually carry off the surplus heat, — an inch will 
be high enough. 

As the season advances, and the days become warm 
and sunny, the sashes may be entirely removed after the 
sun becomes high ; replacing them at night and in stormy 
weather. And finally, they may be removed altogether; 
which will much contribute to the sturdiness of the 
plants. 

Pkotection. 

If we do not start our hot-bed until the first of 
April, we shall probably need no protection other than 



HOT-BEDS. 317 

that afforded by the sash, the internal heat being suf- 
ficient to overcome any external cold. 

If we start our hot-beds in winter, we shall need pro- 
tection. The best is a thick straw mat; and, if very 
cold, this may be covered by a board shutter. One mat 
should be sufficiently large to cover two sashes. 

These mat^s, if properly cared for, will last many 
years. 

We have not treated of the use of a hot-bed for 
striking cuttings ; it is, however, most serviceable for 
this purpose; and with a small hot bed, a good supply 
of verbenas, salvias, heliotropes, and such plants, may be 
obtained. 




27 



CHAPTER XX. 



THE GARDEN. 



Time for Gardening. — April Work. — Uncovering Bulbs. — Preparation of 
Border. — Dividing Herbaceous Plants. — Grass Edgings. — Manuring. 
— "Weeding. — Watering Temperature of Water. — Staking. — Trim- 
ming. — Soil. — Shade. — Situation. 



NOW and ice at last have disappeared, 
and with the first opening of spring 
there is usually an ardent desire devel- 
oped for working in the flower garden ; 
the spades, rakes, and hoes are called 
into requisition, and the close, heavy 
soil receives a vigorous upturning, and the garden is put 
in order. 

All too soon, however; there are yet to be cold rains 
and, perchance, chilling snows. The young shoots of 
the herbaceous plants are not benefited by being deprived 
of the protecting dead foliage of the last year ; and the 
tender plants, covered during the winter, are not im- 

(318) 




THE GARDEN. 319 

proved by being stripped of the mats, or other covering, 
in season to receive the chill of a snow storm. 

The tenth of April is full early enough with us to 
uncover trees and shrubs. The digging of the garden 
beds cannot be advantageously undertaken before the 
first of May. 

The only ^\pril gardening, is uncovering the beds of 
snowdrops, crocus, and other early bulbs. The time for 
this varies from the first to the last of the month, ac- 
cording to the exposure of the bed. The rule is, when 
the bulbs shoot up through the manure and straw, and 
begin to bloom, then uncover. "We shall, doubtless, have 
frosty nights ; but unless the cold should be very severe, 
far greater than the average after the first of x\pril, 
the young shoots and fiowers will not be injured. 

Let us suppose the warm, sunny days of May have 
come, the bloodroot and violets are in fuU bloom, and 
Nature is rapidly assuming her spring vestments. Now 
is the time to dig over our fiower border ; we shall find 
the soil, instead of being hard, sodden, and cold, as it 
is in April, soft, porous, and crumbly, breaking readily 
under the blows of the spade. If we have given the 
border, in autumn, a good top-dressing of manure, as is 



320 THE GARDEN. 

always a good plan, we have now no manuring to do. 
First, cut off all dead stems of herbaceous plants, and 
clear up the border ; some prefer to do this in autumn ; 
this is only advisable where the flower garden is in the 
immediate vicinity of the house, where the dead stalks 
would present an unsightly appearance during the win- 
ter. If we have no such good reason, it is far bet- 
ter to leave the stalks and dead leaves on the plant, 
as they serve as a great protection against the winter's 
cold and sun. 

The border being cleared, it should be dug over, a 
foot deep, with a sharp spade, the ground levelled, and 
the earth well pulverized ; care must be taken not to 
injure any herbaceous plants ; if they are a little cov- 
ered it will do no harm, as their tendency is to grow 
out of the gi-ound ; and if too high, they must be taken 
up and replanted. Now is the time to divide them, 
which may be done with the spade or with a sharp 
knife. 

If you have grass edgings, they should be neatly cut; 
this may be done with the spade, or with one of the 
tools made expressly for this purpose. 

If you have not manured the border in the fall, now 



THE GARDEN. 321 

is the time to do it. A flower garden should have a 
liberal dressing of manure once a year, and autumn is 
better than spring. 

But if we did not manure in autumn, let us do the 
next best thing, and now give a heavy top-dressing ; 
cover the soil four inches deep with the best well-rotted 
manure, the fi^ner the better, and dig it in immediately, 
and prepare our border as above directed. 

Let a day or two elapse before we begin to plant, 
for the soil is now light, and will settle very much. 

We may then transplant, sow seeds, set bulbs, or turn 
out bedding plants ; the latter, however, should not be 
done before the 20th of May, as they gain but little, 
and may be nipped by a late frost. 

Weeding. 

Our spring work is over; the flowers are blooming 
gayly, and the hot June suns are shining. The flowers 
grow rapidly, but the same sun is bringing up a growth 
of weeds ; we must be on the alert, or our delicate an- 
nuals will be smothered, and our garden soon lose its 
neat and attractive appearance. The weeds must be 
pulled up, and for this there is nothing so effective as 



322 THE GARDEN. 

the thumb and finger. Do not be afraid of dirtying 
your hands ; this weeding, though often rather back- 
breaking and tiresome, and, withal, dirty work, is very 
good exercise ; and delicate fingers may be protected by 
a pair of gloves. The best time is early morning of a 
summer day, — say, from half past four to seven, on a 
clear, bright morning ; one feels invigorated with the 
fresh early air, charmed by the beauty of morning, and 
really pities those who waste these, the best hours of 
the day, in sleep. It is not well to weed at night, or 
on a rainy or cloudy day, for there is no sun to kill the 
weeds, which it is better to expose to the sun, that they 
may be thoroughly killed ; pull them in the morning, let 
them lay during the day, and gather them up at night. 

It is poor gardening to cut off* a weed just below the 
level of the ground with a scuffle or weeding hoe, for 
the root remains alive, gains strength, and often sends 
up many shoots to trouble us again. In large gardens 
a hoe must be used, for hand weeding is too laborious ; 
but if we have time, use the thumb and finger. 

During the summer, the earth Avill need an occasional 
stirring with the rake or hoe, especially if the summer 
is dry, and may need the further attention of 



THE GARDEN. 323 



Wateking. 



In this, there are many mistakes made ; often, the water 
is poured on from a pail or from the nose of the water- 
ing-pot. In both cases, the upper soil is wet, but the 
greater portion of the water runs off, and fails to benefit 
the garden. Now, our rules for watering are, never 
water unless the soil absolutely needs it : some think 
watering a daily duty, to be attended to whether the 
need exists or not. If the soil is close or clayey, very 
seldom will water be required; if sandy or loose, more 
often, but each locality will have its own rules. 

Again, never dash water on the plants or ground ; 
give it slowly and gently from the rose of a watering- 
pot, and let it soak into the earth. 

A good way, if a plant specially needs water, is to 
put a flower-pot close to it, press the pot down into the 
ground and fill it with water ; gently and slowly the water 
will soak through the hole at the bottom of the pot, 
and the roots of the plant receive the needed moisture. 
In time of drought, a syringing is of much benefit to 
shrubs and plants. 

The water for plants should not be very cold; rain 



324 THE GARDEN. 

water is the best, and it may always be obtained by 
having a hogshead standing in some place out of sight, 
under a spout connected with the roof. 

There are always the little cares of staking plants, 
trimming too luxuriant branches, removing dead stalks, 
leaves, and flowers, watching lest the storms beat down 
the tender shoots ; looking carefully for insects, and all 
the little routine of duties which makes the pleasurable 
care of the flower garden. 

A well-kept garden is a constant source of pleasure ; 
it supplies out-door exercise and employment, and will 
always furnish a bouquet for the mantel or for the table. 

In future chapters we will treat of what to plant ; and 
when speaking of each plant, any peculiar mode of cul- 
ture required, will be given. 

The soil of a garden, for the growth of common spe- 
cies of shrubs, perennials, and annuals, should be a rich 
loam : if any plants require sand, it can be easily sup- 
plied. Peat is but little used in general gardening; it 
is required only for rhododendrons, azaleas, and in the 
culture of some of our fine native plants. 

A garden should not be shaded by large trees; but 



THE GARDEN. 



325 



few plants flourish under shade and drip, and the 
strong roots of trees often usurp all the soil, and appro- 
priate to themselves all the best of the garden. 

A garden should be sunny; soil, rich black loam; and 
sheltered from the wind. 




28 




CHAPTER XXI. 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 



Planting. — General Treatment.— Watering-. — Protection.— June Berry. — 
Acacia. — Flowering Almond. — Catalpa. — Flowering Dogwood. — Kol- 
reuteria. — Lilacs. — Syringa. — Laburnum. — Stuartia. — Pea Tree. — 
Pseonias. — Magnolias. — Azalea. — Spice Bush. — Purple Berberry. — 
Fringe Tree. — Smoke Tree. — Bladder Senna. — Corcliorus. — Dwarf 
Horse Chestnut. — Tartarian Honeysuckle. — Spireas.— Silver Bell.— 
Sorrel Tree. — Deutzia. — Daphne Mezereon. — Japan Quince. — Snow- 
ball. — Cranberry Tree. — "Weigela. — Virginia Silk. — Dutchman's Pipe. 
— Virginia Creeper, — Honeysuckles. — Wistaria. — Climbing Koses. — 
June Koses. — Moss Roses. — Perpetual Poses.- Culture. — Rhododen- 
drons.— List of Hardy. — Mountain Laurel. — Andromeda. — Ledum, or 
Labrador Tea. 

(326) 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 



327 




iO GARDEN is complete without a 
judicious selection of small trees and 
shrubs, and the many splendid acquisi- 
tions of the last few years have made 
them take a place among the most 
desirable objects of floral decoration. 
They occupy but little space, require 
but little care, and give a large return 
of flowers and foliage. Their culture 
is very simple. They will thrive in 
any good garden soU. 

In planting, dig a hole about three feet in diameter, 
unless the shrub is very small, when two feet will do ; fill 
in with rich loam, and set the tree or shrub carefully in the 
centre, treading the soil well around it, so it may be firmly 
established. There is nothing gained by digging a small 
hole, and crowding in the roots of the plant ; you may save 
in labor, but you dearly pay for it, year after year, in a 
sickly plant and starveling flowers. You must give the 
roots generous treatment if you wish the plant to aflford 
a wealth of foliage and flower. 

If the shrub droops from drought, the best way to 
revive it is by syringing the foliage in the evening, and 



828 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 

by giving water at the root from a flower-pot, as de- 
scribed in the last chapter ; or, if a pot of sufficient size 
cannot be obtained, an old butter firkin, with an auger 
hole in the bottom, will answer admirably. 

Our autumn treatment is, only to give a top-dress- 
ing of manure, to be dug in lightly luitli a fork (a spade 
injures the roots) around the plant in early spring, when 
the border is dug over. 

The only pruning necessary is to cut out any too luxu- 
riant or unsightly branches, which should be done with 
a sharp pruning-knife. 

If the plants are somewhat tender or weak, it may be 
well to protect them against the winter's cold by tying 
them up in straw, or, still better, cedar boughs, which may 
be prettily trimmed off, so that all winter the plants 
look like trimmed evergreens. The time for doing this is 
about the middle of November, and the covering should be 
removed about the first week in April. 

Protection from the sun may also be given by setting 
small evergreen trees in the ground around any plant re- 
quiring such protection. The trunk of the tree may be 
sharpened and thrust into the ground; it will freeze in, 
and stand firmly all winter. 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 329 

This chapter can be but a list of the best trees and 
shrubs, with brief descriptions of each, from which the 
reader can select those which best suit his taste. All 
are sufficiently hardy to stand our ordinary winters without 
protection. We have not given a list of large trees, 
gladly as we would have done so, because a chapter on 
trees would treat more of the woodland and park than 
of the garden ; but we have mentioned many small 
trees, which are exceedingly ornamental, and may be 
grown in a limited space. 

The June Berry, or Shad Bush (Amelanchier hotryapium), 
is a pretty native tree, rarely attaining a gi-eater height 
than twelve feet, and in earliest spring loaded with white 
blossoms, succeeded later by clusters of purplish black 
berries. 

Both in leaf and flower it is very showy, and is one 
of the few natives which seems to be appreciated. The 
flowers come out before the leaves. 

The Flowering Acacia {A. viscosa) is a small tree, cov- 
ered with a profusion of pea-shaped pinkish white flow- 
ers, on short, close racemes in June. It has the merit 
of growing any where, and always flowering well. Its 
foliage is neat, locust-like, and pretty. 
28* 



330 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Another little gem, of the same family, so common 
that its beauty is not appreciated, is the Rose Acacia 
{A. hispida). Its clustered bunches of pink pea-shaped 
flowers are familiar to all. If trained to a single stem, 
it makes a fine plant; its fault is, a tendency to throw 
up suckers, which renders it a troublesome plant in a small 
garden. It is, however, a favorite of ours, and we will- 
ingly bear its fault to enjoy its beauty. Both these 
species will bear neglect and hard treatment; indeed, 
they will grow in spite of you. 

A well-known and always popular shrub is the little 
dwarf-flowering Almond (Amygdalus pumila fl'pl'), found 
every where, and yet, as is usually the case with our 
best and most common blessings, not appreciated. A 
little care would improve this plant wonderfully. It 
flowers on the young wood, therefore the more shoots 
we can get in the summer the more flower the next 
spring. If, therefore, your plant is thrifty and well-estab- 
lished, as soon as it is out of bloom cut it down to 
the ground ; it may be hard to do it, but patience a while, 
and before autumn you will have a fine growth of 
young wood, which the next spring will give you profuse 
bloom. 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 331 

A fine tree, and beautiful, both in foliage and flower, 
blooming withal late in the season, is the Catalpa 
(C syringafoUci). It is, however, too large for a small 
garden, but yet is so beautiful, a space should be made 
for it near the house. Flowers in July, in large ter- 
minal bunches on the ends of the branches ; white, 
marked with. purple and yellow, and deliciously fragrant. 

As a companion to the June Berry, we may have 
our flowering Dogwood {Gornus florida), a beautiful native 
tree, whose flowers are surrounded by very conspicuous 
white floral leaves, which render the plant very attrac- 
tive, and which are succeeded in autumn by red ber- 
ries. The foliage also turns blood red with the autumn 
frosts. It is a small tree, occupies but little space, 
flowers when quite young, and should be more gener- 
ally cultivated. 

Kolreuteria Paniculata is a low tree, producing in August 
bunches of bright yellow flowers. It is but little known, 
however, or it would be more commonly grown. The 
foliage is handsome, and the flowers come out at a 
season when few trees are in bloom. It needs a rich 
soil, and a sunny situation. 

The Lilacs (Syringa), of which there are some twenty 



332 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 

varieties, and the Syi'ingas {FhiladelpJius), are too well 
known to need description; they are all pretty, and 
flourish in any garden soil. The Persian Lilacs are most 
suitable for a small garden. All these plants will bear 
any exposure and thrive, where other shrubs would 
dwindle and die. 

The English and Scotch Laburnum (Cytisus) are 
somewhat tender in the vicinity of Boston; they will, 
however, flower splendidly in a somewhat sheltered 
location; their golden chain of blossoms is very beau- 
tiful. 

A few years since, one of the natives of the mountains 
of the Middle and Southern States was introduced to us by 
Messrs. Parsons. We mean that lovely shrub, Stuartia 
Pentagynia, which has safely stood our winters, and 
delights us each August by a profusion of large, camellia- 
like flowers, white, with purple centre. 

Plant this shrub, however small the garden; you 
will never repent it, for it will repay you a thousand 
fold. 

For a pretty, hardy tree, eminent for delicate foliage 
and pretty blossoms, give us the Siberian Pea Tree (Cara- 
gana arborescens). It gives a profusion of pea-shaped 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 333 

yellow flowers in May, and its foliage has a dark, healthy 
green hue until late into the fall. It is small, occupying 
but little space. There are other species ; all are pretty, 
but many require to be grafted on a tall stock to show 
to advantage, as they are low, trailing shrubs. 

AVe must also have Tree Pseonies ; there are many 
varieties, but, after the poppy-flowered and the double 
blush, they difier but little. They bloom in May, and 
are always ornamental; a little protection in winter is 
advisable, though not necessary. Elizabeth and E.oi 
Leopold are magnificent varieties. 

Magnolias are always favorites, and could we have but 
one species of flowering tree, this would be our choice. 

31. conspicua is the Yulan Tree, perfectly hardy, bloom- 
ing profusely about the last of April, producing large 
white flowers, if. Soulangiana is about a week later ; 
flowers, rosy purple. 

•There are many hybrids from these two ; all are 
worthy a place in the garden. 

M. tripetala, the Umbrella Tree, is too large for smdl 
gardens, but where there is space, should be exten- 
sively planted ; flowers large white, and very fragrant 
in June. 



334 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 

M. glauca is our own little swamp Magnolia, but it does 
poorly in cultivation; a damp soil, with deep loam, suits 
it best ; it is an evergreen. 

M. Thom^psomanais a fine hybrid between the last two 
mentioned, and hardy. 

M. macropliylla produces enormous leaves and flowers ; 
it needs liberal culture, but is perfectly hardy ; the 
flowers are white, very fragrant, produced in July. 

M. jpurjourea or ohovata is not hardy, yet if well pro- 
tected will succeed. 

Azalea Nudiflora and Viscosa are two fine native species, 
the former with pink flowers in May, the latter with 
white flowers in July. Both succeed well in any gar- 
den soil. 

The Spice Bush [Galycanthus), in its many species, is 
very pretty, and a general favorite. The flowers have but 
little beauty, being dull colored, yet their fragrance recom- 
mends them to all. All the species have ornamental 
foliage, and being low growers, are suitable for small 
gardens. The whole plant is highly aromatic. 

The foliage of the purple-leafed Berberry {Berheris 
piirpurea) is attractive and ornamental in the garden. It is 
a neat-growing bush, with yellow flowers and red berries. 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 335 

A favorite with all is the Fringe Tree {Chionanthus 

Virginiacus), producing long fringes of white flowers in 

June ; it delights in a rich, loamy, moist soil. 

The " purple fringe " or Smoke Tree {Bhus cotinus) is 

too well known to need description ; it is very ornamental 

I 
from midsummer to autumn, and does well with but little 

care. 

Colutea Arborescens is the Bladder Senna, and is de- 
serving a place in the garden, because it is always in 
bloom, and is withal very ornamental with its yellow 
flowers. 

We cannot say the Altheas {Hibiscus Syy-iacus) are 
favorites of ours ; their recommendation is, the late season 
at which they bloom. The flowers are produced in August, 
and are of all shades between red, purple, and white, and 
double and single. 

An old favorite is the Corchorus {Kerria japonica), 
always esteemed for its bright orange globular flowers, and 
conspicuous for its light, glossy, green wood. The shoots 
are, how^ever, liable to be winter-killed, and should in 
autumn be laid down and covered with earth. 

There is a dwarf-flowering Horse-chestnut (Pavia 
Macrostacliya) which makes a pretty ornament for a 



336 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 

lawn; the flowers are white, produced on long spikes. 
The plant produces suckers so freely it sometimes becomes 
troublesome. 

All the Tartarian Honeysuckles are to be recommended 
as garden shrubs, being equally ornamental, whether in 
flower or fruit. 

Of the Spireas, whose "name is legion," the best for 
general cultivation are, — 

S. Opulifolia. Flowers -white in June. 

S. Bella. Flowers pink in June. 

S. Prunifolia. Flowers white in May. 

S. Reevesii Jl'pr. Flowers white in May and June. 

(S. Callosa. Flowers red and pink all the season. 

The Snow Bell, or Silver Bell Trees (Halesia diptera 
and tetraptera), are always admired; the former is some- 
what tender in New England, however. They are small 
trees, loaded in June with white, bell-shaped blossoms. 

One of our most beautiful small trees is the Sorrel 
Tree {Andromeda arhorea). From July to September it is 
loaded with bloom, and a more attractive object cannot be 
found. It is suited to a very small garden. 

Who has not admired the Deutzia {D. scahra), as hardy 
as a Syringa, and far more beautiful, — stretching out to 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 337 

US its branches, loaded with white blossoms ; yet, alas, 
they have no perfume ! 

In the earliest days of spring, would we have a shrub 
in flower in the garden, we must have planted the white 
and purple Daphne Mezereon, and long before winter has 
departed, these little shrubs will be loaded with bloom. 

Before they have faded, we may gather a rich, golden 
bouquet from Forsythia Viridissima, and ^^Teathe among 
them the flame -colored buds of the Japan Quince {Pyrus 
tTaponica). 

There is also a white, a red, a double, and an orange 
variety of this last-mentioned flower, which to us is one of 
the early glories of spring. 

Our list of shrubs would be incomplete did we omit the 
Snowball (Vihurnuni opulus), and the Cranberry Tree 
(F. oxy coccus), both of which are ornamental in a high 
degree. These plants are botanically identical. 

One of onr modern introductions, the pretty Weigela 
Rosea, is already common in the garden, and perhaps there 
is no shrub a more universal favorite, certainly none that 
will give a greater profusion of bloom. 

Our garden is, however, in need of some hardy climbing 
plants ; we therefore give a list of fine species : — 
29 



338 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Periploca Graeca (Virginian silk), a rapid grower, with 
curious brown flowers. 

Trumpet Flower {Bignonia radicans), producing dull, 
crimson flowers in August. 

Dutchman's Pipe {Aristolochia siplio)^ a fine climber, 
with large leaves and curious flowers. 

Virginia Creeper [Ampelopsis Virginica) ; very useful 
for covering walls and fences. A rapid grower, and very 
beautiful in autumn. 

The diff'erent species of Clematis are very ornamental. 
C. flaimnula, Viticella, Virginica, and Azurea grandiflora, 
are the best. 

Honeysuckles are favorites with all, and our selec- 
tion from the many varieties would be Scarlet and Yel- 
low Trumpet (Lonicera Peridymenum and aurea), Dutch 
Monthly (Belgica), Japan Twining {Japonicd). 

And, lastly, the Chinese and our native Wistaria {W. 
sinensis and frutescens), which are always favorites from 
their clusters of purple flowers. 

We must have some climbing roses. Let us, then, 
choose the pink and red Bousault for early bloom, and 
from the prairies. Queen of the Prairie, Baltimore Belle, 
Superba, MilledgeviUe, and Perpetual Pink. If we can 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 



339 



have but one climbing rose, let it be the Baltimore Belle. 
The Greville Rose is a fine, hardy species. 
Let us choose — 



Madame Plantier. "Wlhite, 
Victor Hugo. Lilac. 
George IV. Crimson. 
Brennus. Crimson. 
Provence, Rose. 



For Hardy June Roses. 

Centifolia Cristata. Blush. 
Madame Hardy. White. ■ 
Globe White. White. 
Four Seasons. Blush. 
Unique. White. 



For Moss Roses. 



Commo7i Blush. Rose. 
Cristata. Rose. 
Glory of Moss. Rose. 
Luxembourg. Crimson. 



Princess Adelaide. Red. 
White Bath. White. 
MuUiflora. Rose. 
Etna. Crimson. 



For Hybrid Perpetual. 



Auguste Mie. Rosy pink. 

Baronne Prevost. Rose fine. 

Geant des Batailles. Crimson. 

Edward Jesse. Lilac Rose. 

U Enfant du Mont Carmel. Pur- 
plish red. 

General Jacqueminot. Splendid 
crimson. 

Lion des Combats. Scarlet. 

Jules Margottin. Carmine. 

Compte de Brobinski. Crimson. 

Duchess of Sutherland. Rose. 

Caroline de Sansal. Flesh color. 

Baronne Hallez. Light crimson. 



William Jesse. Crimson. 
Sydonie. Light pink. 
Rivers. Rosy crimson. 
Portland Blanche. White. 
Marquise Bocella. Rosy blush. 
Madame Laffay. Rosy crimson. 
Mrs. Rivers. Flesh color. 
General Cavaignac. Light rosy 

crimson. 
Pius IX. Purplish red. 
Mrs. Elliott. Rosy purple. 
La Reine. Rose. 
Lady Alice Peel. Rosy carmine. 



340 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 

The treatment of roses in the garden is very simple. 
They need a deep, rich, well-manured soil, rather moist, 
but never wet. 

In early spring they should be cut do^vn to a few eyes ; 
and, if autumn bloom is desired, pruned again in July. 
When the frosty nights come, and just before the ground 
freezes, lay down the shoots, and cover them several inches 
deep ; or, in the case of June roses, lay them down and 
cover them with evergreen boughs. Take them up about 
the middle of April. 

Our lists of Bourbon and China Roses have been given 
in a previous chapter, and we have only to add to these a 
plant of the favorite Yellow Harrison and the Persian Yel- 
low, and a few plants of the little early-blooming Scotch 
roses, to have our rosery well stocked. 

Before closing this chapter, we wish to say a few 
words about a much neglected class of plants, the so- 
called American plants; i. e., Khododendrons, Kalmias, 
and Ledum. 

The proper soil is peat, leaf mould, and sand, in propor- 
tions of one half part of the latter to two of the former. 

The plants should be planted in a bed specially prepared, 
where they can be sheltered from the winter's sun. 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 341 

We do not propose to write a treatise on their culture, 

but merely saying there can be nothing more ornamental 

than a collection of these plants, to give the following list 

of varieties which have been proved hardy in the vicinity 

of Boston : — 

1 

Rkodode7idron Atrosanguineum, Intense blood red, fine foliage ; one 
of the hardiest and best. 

R. Archimedes. Bright rose, light centre. 

R. Barclayanum. A fine, light blooming kind; good foliage; large 
trusses, of a deep rose color. 

R. Blandyamim. Deep crimson; fine. 

R. Chancellor. Finely spotted purplish lilac ; good. 

JR. Brayanum. Rosy scarlet, lighter centre; fine foliage; a very 
fine variety. 

R. Correggio. Dark crimson; fine. 

R. Delicatissimum. "White, delicately edged with pink. 

R. Due de Brabant. Yellowish white, spotted with red, semi-double. 

R. Everestianum. Rosy lilac, spotted and fringed; a fine kind. 

R. Leopardii. Rosy lilac, intensely spotted. 

R. Giganteum. Bright rose, large truss ; foliage good. 

R. Nero. Fine dark rosy purple, spotted; fine truss. 

jR. Standard of Flanders. 

R. Roseum Elegans. Fine rose. 

R. Roseum Pictum. Rose, with yellow eye. 



jR. Grandiflorum, 
R. Superbum, 



i Late blooming ; fine rose-colored ; good trusses. 



There are many hardy Rhododendrons, seedlings of 
E. Catawhiense, which are, perhaps, better adapted for 
29* 



342 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 

general planting than those above mentioned. We 
describe a few kinds : — 

R. Cataichiense Album. Fine white. 

R. Catawhiense Album Elegans. White, with green spots ; the best 
of the hardy light varieties. 

R. Grandiflorum. Blush, changing to white. 

R. Acubcefoliam. Light lilac. 

R. Azureum. Blush lilac, distinct and fine. 

R. Bicolor. Rose ; distinct white spot on upper petals. 

R. Candidissimum. Pure white. 

R. Coelestmum. Fine blush, yellow eye. 

R. Ccerulescens. Lilac pink. 

R. Delicatissimum. Delicate blush, changing to white. 

R. Gloriosum. Large blush. 

R. Perspicuum. Clear blush. 

R. Pmyureum Elegans and Grandiflorum. Fine trusses ; clear, fine 
purple. 

R. Grandiflorum (Waterers). Rose ; fine truss. 

R. Roseum Splendens. Fine rose. 

R. Blandum. Pale blush, fine foliage. 

R. Guttatum. Clear white, distinctly spotted. 

R. Hyacinthiflorum. Very double and distinct. 

R. Maeranthum. Blush white, tinged with pink. 

R. Multi7naculu7n. White, finely spotted with red. 

R. Nivaticum. Pure white, yellow eye. 

R. Pictum. White ; intense spot on upper petals. 

All the above are hardy enough to withstand a Canadian 
winter. Rhododendron Ponticum, and its varieties, are not 
hardy with us. Kalmia Latifolia, the fine mountain laurel, 



SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 348 

is worthy a place in every garden. There are also varieties 
of the common Kalmia Angustifolia, or Lambkill, which 
are very pretty. K. Angustifolia carnea, pumila, and rubra, 
our swamp Kalmia, K. glauca and its varieties, stricta, and 
superba, are very ornamental. Kalmia Myrtifolia is a fine- 
leaved variety. All these are perfectly hardy. 

The Andromedas are a very pretty tribe of plants ; of 
these, the following are hardy : A. Catesbaei, Floribunda, 
Mariana, Polifolia, and its varieties. 

The Ledum is a very pretty evergreen, and all its species 
are hardy. L. angustifolium, buxifolium, procumbens, in- 
termedium, latifolium,palustre, and thymifolium. 

These are all low-gi'owing evergi-eens, and very pretty 
miniature plants. In Jime they are covered with small 
white blossoms. 

We have been thus diffuse on this subject, because it is 
one on which there is general ignorance ; and large sums 
are annually spent in importing plants which never survive 
the first winter. All we have mentioned are perfectly 
hardy, and well adapted to our New England climate. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

General Treatment. — Transplanting. — Propagation.— Dielytra. — Lily of 
the Valley. — Adam's Needle. — Larkspur. — Globe Flower. — Phlox. — 
List of Choice Varieties. — Canterbury Bell. — Hepatica. — Pink.— Frax- 
inella. — Cowslip. — Foxglove. — Day Lily. — Iris. — Everlasting Pea. — 
Lupin. — Ragged Robin. — Spirea. — Veronica. — Bloodroot. — List of 
fine Species. 



N THIS connection, we treat of all 
hardy biennials and perennials, 
meaning plants which spring up for 
two or more years, blooming during 
the summer from yearly stems, which 
die down each autumn, the root, in 
the case of biennials, dying after 
blooming, or, as with most peren- 
nials, living many years, and springing up every season. 
These plants are to be especially relied upon for the 
flower garden, because they require but little care ; in fact, 
they care for themselves. Give them the common garden 

(344) 




HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 345 

soil, dig round them, to loosen the earth, each spring, and 
they will bloom. 

Yet a little care is well repaid by increased luxuriance of 
foliage and beauty of flower. In spring each clump should 
be examined, to see it is not too high out of the earth ; 
there is a tendency with most of these plants to grow out 
of the ground. When this is found to be the case, take up 
the plant and re-set it. 

Transplanting should always be done in the spring ; not 
but what these plants will live if removed in the autumn, 
but they will succeed so much better by spring planting, 
that that season is always to be chosen if possible. 

During the summer, if very large and fine bloom is de- 
sired, prune out all the weak stems. 

In the autumn cover the crowns of the plants with coarse 
manure or litter ; if the plant is an evergreen, protect it 
with pine boughs from the winter's sun. 

In spring, dig a few spades full of manure around each 
plant. 

These plants are propagated by division of the root, 
which should be performed in early spring, just as the 
plants start into growth, or in the latter part of summer, 
when they have done flowering ; this latter treatment is 



346 HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

especially adapted for the Phlox. Every eye, with a bit of 
root, will make a plant. They also produce seed freely, 
and seedlings usually bloom the second year. 

We give a list of species, with short descriptions, men- 
tioning the plants in the order in which they are adapted to 
general culture, considering them as flowering plants. 

DiELYTEA Spectabilis. TMs bcautiful plant is one of 
the most elegant in cultivation, whether we consider its 
foliage or flowers. It grows freely, flowers well, and is 
subject to no insects or disease ; and if, after the flowers 
have faded in the spring, the stalks are cut down, it will 
throw up a second set and bloom again. Perennial. Flow- 
ers, rose and white in May. 

Lily of the Valley (Convallaria Majalis). This lovely 
flower grows alike for the rich and poor. It does well in 
any rich, loamy soil, and thrives in shade or sun. It pro- 
duces its fragrant white flowers in May, which are suc- 
ceeded by red berries in September. Perennial. 

Adam's Needle (Yucca Filamentosa). An evergreen 
plant, with strong roots and sharp leaves, of a very tropical 
aspect. In June it throws up a tall spike of white flowers. 
During the winter, cover the plants with pine boughs. They 
need a rich soil, and it is a good plan to dig, every fall, 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 347 

-well-rotted manure into the bed. Perennial. One of the 
conspicuous features near our house is a large circular bed 
of these plants. 

Delphinium Hendersonii and Formosum. Two beau- 
tiful varieties of Larkspur. Flowers deep blue, with white 
centre. Produced in profusion from July to November. 
Perennial. 

Trollius Europ^us (Globe Flower). A lovely little 
plant. A mass of light yellow globe flowers in May and 
June. This is a favorite flower with us. Perennial. T. 
Asiaticus has orange flowers. 

Phlox. This is a large family, containing many species 
and fine varieties. We give a list of desirable varieties of 
each of the early summer and autumn kinds, only premising 
that we mention but a few, while there are hundreds worthy 
of cultivation. 

Early Spring Floioerincj. 

Phlox Siihilata (Moss Pink.) Pink, white, purple, and eyed varieties. 
P. Divaricata. Light and dark purple. 
P. Stonolifera. Deep red. 
P. Xi talis. White. 

Summer Floivering. 

P. Maculata. lied. P. Countess of Hoyne. White, 

P. Suavolens. White. crimson eye. 



348 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 



P. Louis Van Houtie. Striped. 
P. Bep2)o. Purple or crimson. 
P. S2Jeculum, White, red eye. 
P. Roi de Leopold. White, 
striped with purple. 



P. Mad. Carl Wagner. Whitish 
rose, rosy eye. 

P. Henri Lierval. Purplish crim- 
son. 

P. Rival. White. 



Late Floioering. 



P. Decora. White, red eye. 

P. Souvenir de la Mer. White, 

violet centre 
P. Le Croix de St, Louis. Rose 

and white. 
P. Osiris. White, red eye. 
P. Her sine. Purple and white. 
P. Dianthiflora. Rose and white. 



P. Madame Basseville. Rosy 

white, red eye. 
P. Madame Le Cerf. Pure white. 
P. Oculata. Lilac, white centre. 
P. Atrojmrjnirea. Dark crimson. 
P. Camarina. White, red eye. 
P. Mr. Regel. Violet, purple, and 

crimson. 



All these species of Phlox are perennials. 



Campanula Medium (Canterbury Bells). An old-fashioned, but very 
pretty flower. It is, however, a biennial ; so we must sow seed every 
year to keep up a stock. There are white, purple, single and double 
varieties. Blooms in June. 

C. Persicafolia. Our common garden species ; flower, blue, white ; 
single and double ; perennial, blooming in June and July. There are 
many other species, all fine. 

Hejiatica Triloba. This little spring flower we have previously de- 
scribed. It is the first flower to open after the snowdrop and crocus, 
usually expanding about the fifth of April. The leaves are evergreen, 
the flowers double and single, white, blue, rose, and red. Perennial. 

Garden Pi?ik {Dianthus Hortensis). A pretty and common flower, 
worthy of a place in every flower garden. Perennial. June. 

Fraxinella i^Dictcinimis Fraxinella). The red and white fraxinella 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 349 

are old-fashioned favorites. They increase slowly, and are never very 
plenty. The plants possess a strong aromatic fragrance. Perennials. 
May, June. 

Dodocatheon Medea (American Cowslip). Flowers in large umbels 
of white and purple blossoms, with reflexed petals. Very ornamental. 
May. Perennial. 

Foxglove {Digitalis). There are many varieties, with purple, white, 
yellow, rusty, and variegated flowers. The plant is a biennial, and 
therefore seeds should be so\vn each year. July and August. 

Day Lily {Hemerocallis and Funkid). Pretty plants, with lily- 
shaped flowers. Colors, yellow, orange, blue, white, and variegated, 
blooming from June to August. Perennials. 

Iris and Fleur de Lis. A large genus of ornamental plants, all per- 
ennials and hardy. 

/. Fianila. Purple, in May. 

/. Cristata. Light blue, in May. 

/. Florejitena. White, in June. 

/. Germaiiica. Blue, in June. 

There are many splendid varieties of this flower, all of which are 
very ornamental. 

Everlastivg Pea {Lathyrus Latifolius). This plant possesses all the 
beauty of the sweet pea, wanting only its fragance. It comes up year 
after year, floAvering abundantly. Perennial. Flowers, white, pink, 
rose, and purple ; worthy a place in every garden. 

Lxipinus Polyx>hyllus. A fine, hardy species, producing rich, purple 
flowers. Biennial. June. 

Lychnis Floscoculi is the well known Ragged Robin, the double 
variety of which is deservedly a favorite. Perennial. June. 

Spirea Aruncus (Goat's-beard). A very showy species ; flowers white, 
in June. 

S. Filijyendula fl' pV. Bears fine clusters of double white flowers. 
June to September. 

S. Japonica is a delicate species, also with white flowers. 

30 



350 HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

S. Palmata. A variety of tall habit, bearing immense corymbs of 
red flowers. June. All perennials. 

Veronica Virginiea is our common tall-growing species, producing 
white flowers in August. 

V. Sjoeciosa and Sjncata produce fine blue flowers, and are of dwarf 
habit. Perennials. June. 

Sanguinaria Canadensis, our wild Bloodroot ; succeeds admirably in 
cultivation, and increases in size and vigor. It is one of our earliest 
spring flowers, and should be more generally cultivated. Flowers, pure 
white, with yellow stamens, in early May. ^ 

The following plants are all well worthy of cultivation, 
hut we have no space to describe them. Unless otherwise 
noted, all are hardy perennials. 

Saxifraga Crassifolia. Flowers pink, in May. 

Monarda Didyma. Flowers scarlet, in July. 

Chinese Fceonies. Red, white, and blush. May to July. 

Papaver Orientalis. Flowers scarlet, in June. 

Perstemon Cceruleum,. Flowers blue. August. 

Aconltum Napellus (Monkshood). Flowers blue. July. 

Alyssum Saxitile. Flowers yellow. May. 

Columbines, in variety. Biennials. June. 

Lunaria Biennis (Honesty). Biennial ; white or pink, in May. 

Sioeet William, in variety. Biennials. June. 

Verhascum Pyramidalis. Biennial ; yellow. August. 

Polemonium Cceruleum. Flowers blue or white. June. 

Rudbeckia Fulgida. Flowers yellow. July. 

Iberis Tenoriana. Flowers white. May. 

Potentilla Astrosanguinea. Flowers blood-red all summer. 

Dracocephalum Virginiacum. Flowers purple. July. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 351 

Co7ivolvuhis Panduratus. A fine, hardy climber, ■with, profusion of 
large white flowers, with purple tube. 

Coronilla Varia. Flowers pink, in May and June. 

Achillea Ptarmica. Flowers white, all summer. 

Cassia 2Iarylandica. Flowers yellow, in August. 

Catananche Ccerulea. Flowers blue, in July. 

Adonis Vernalis. Flowers yellow, in May. 

Geum Coccinium. Flowers scarlet, in July. 

Hesperis Matronalis. Flowers white and purple, in June. 

Pulmonaria Virginica. Flowers blue, in May. 

Tradescantla Virginica. Flowers white and blue, all summer. 

This list miglit be indefinitely increased, but enough 
have ah-eady been given to enable the ignorant to select a 
choice collection. 




CHAPTER XXIII. 

HARDY ANNUALS. 

Treatment. — Sowing. — Saving Seed. — Watering. — Mignonette. — Sweet 
Pea. — Asters. — Balsam. — Salpiglossis. — Abronia. — Nigella. — Agera- 
tum. — Coreopsis. — Sweet Allyssum. — Candytuft. — Clarkia. — Convol- 
vulus. — Eschscoltzia. — Lupins. — Portulacca. — Indian Shot. — Lark- 
spur. — Amaranth. — Gillyflower. — Schizanthus. — Zinnia. — List of 
Choice Species. — List of Climbing Annuals. — Cypress Vine. 

E CANNOT say these plants are 
, ^ favorites. With the number 

of fine bedding plants now 
easily obtainable, they are 
by no means so much cul- 
tivated as formerly. Yet 
there are some which are 
indispensable, many which are 
endeared by old associations, and many, 
without which our summer garden will not be complete. 
What can excel the beauty of the annual Phlox, the bril- 
liant contrasts of the annual Morning Glory, the dazzling 

(352) 




HARDY ANNUALS. 353 

colors of the Portulacca, the fine-cut and curiously-marked 
leaves of the Schizanthus, the sweet perfume of the 
Mignonette and Sweet Pea, or the delicate pencillings of 
the Salpiglossis ! 

The treatment of annuals is very simple ; they may be 
divided into two classes. 

Hardy annuals, which may be sown in autumn and come 
up, surviving the winter and blooming early the next sum- 
mer ; or which may be sown in spring, in the open border, 
for summer bloom. 

Half-hardy annuals, which are sown after the ground be- 
comes Avarm in the spring, blossoming the same summer. 
This latter class may again be subdivided, according to the 
treatment required, into garden annuals and hot- bed an- 
nuals ; the former rapidly coming to perfection when sown 
in the garden, about the first of May ; the latter requiring 
a longer season, and thus needing to be started and brought 
forward in a hot-bed, and then transplanted to the 
garden. 

Strictly speaking, annuals are plants which live but one 
year, that is, spring up, make their growth, bloom, and 
perfect seed in one season ; but many plants treated as an- 
nuals may be preserved many years in a frame or green- 
30* 



354 HARDY ANNUALS. 

house, while at the same time in the garden they bloom 
and seed in a single summer, as for instance the Petunia 
and Nasturtium. 

Others, again, form tubers, which, if properly cared for 
during the winter, and planted out in the spring, grow 
again with vigor and flower profusely, and so on indefinitely, 
as the Four O' Clock {Mirahilis)^ the Commelina, the Scar- 
let Bean, and Salvia Patens. 

There are, however, some annuals which must be sown 
where they are to grow, and which will not bear transplant- 
ing. Of these, our most familiar examples are Larkspurs, 
Poppies, Candytuft, Lupins, Mignonette, Convolvulus, 
Sweet Peas. 

If, however, it is desirable to force these j^lants, they 
may be started in pots in hot-beds, and then turned out 
into the open ground, without breaking the ball of earth 
enclosing the plants. 

In the following list, we cannot pretend to give more than 
a few of the best species. Our descriptions are necessarily 
brief, but we give, in as few words as possible, the name, 
color, season of blooming, and culture. Where we have 
been more diffuse, it has been because the beauty of the 
plant demands special notice. 



HARDY ANNUALS. 355 

But first, a word as to sowing ; the general fault is plant- 
ing too deep. 

No rule of general application can be given, for the 
proper depth must be regulated by the size of the seed. 
Lupins, Sweet Peas, and such large seeds, may be covered 
one inch, while very small seed, such as Portulacca, should 
be sown on the surface, and a very light covering of fine 
earth sifted over it. 

The border for annuals must be finely dug, and the soil 
well pulverized and raked smooth ; if the surface is coarse 
and lumpy, most of your small seeds will fail. 

Hardy annuals may be sown in August, for early bloom 
the next season ; or about the middle of April, for bloom in 
the latter part of the summer. 

Half-hardy annuals may be sown in the open ground 
about the first of May. 

The tender species should be started in the hot-bed, 
sown either in pots or in the bed, about the first of April, 
and transplanted to the open border about the tenth of 
May, or when all danger of frost is past. 

If the plants come up very thick, thin out the weakest ; 
you will thus give more room for the others, and secure a 
better and larger bloom. 



356 HABDY ANNUALS. 

A word as to saving seed. It is usually ripe when the 
seed capsule begins to turn yellow ; it should then be gath- 
ered, exposed in an airy, sunny place for a few days, to 
allow it to become perfectly dry, and then put up in care- 
fully labelled papers. In purchasing seed, buy nothing in 
" fine mixed varieties," unless you wish the refuse ; for one 
good you get a dozen poor kinds ; learn what you want, 
and buy only that. Again, select the best varieties, and 
buy only those ; a poor variety occupies as much room as a 
good one. 

In autumn, when the frost has killed down the plants, 
pull up the old stalks, and clear up the border, for the 
season's work is done, and the next spring new seeds will 
give you new plants. 

Watering, which is sometimes needed by delicate grow- 
ing species, should be given from a fine rosed watering-pot, 
either early in the morning or late in the evening. 

Mignonette (Reseda Odorata). Sow in the autumn, 
very late, when it will vegetate the next spring, or early in 
April. Flowers, greenish white all summer, of an exquisite 
fragrance. Where this plant has once grown well, it will 
come up year after year, without further care, from self- 
sown seed. 



HARDY ANNUALS. 357 

Sweet Pea (LathjTus Odoratus). Sow as early as possi- 
ble in tlie spring, in rich soil ; the flowers are pink, purple, 
white, and variegated. Grows from two to five feet high, 
blooming from July until killed by the frost. 

They may be trained on strings or a trellis, against a wall 
or fence, or on neat pea sticks ; we prefer the latter method. 

Asters, Chinese, German, or French (Callistephus 
Chinensis var.) A long treatise might be written on 
the different varieties of this beautiful flower. All the 
kinds should be sown in a hot-bed about the middle of 
April, and transplanted to the garden about the middle of 
May. A pretty effect is produced by planting in a bed, 
setting the plants one foot apart each way. Colors, red, 
white, blue, pink, and all possible shades. The flowers are 
also *' quilled," or " pseony flowers." A rich, deep, rather 
moist soil suits them well. The best varieties are Traffaut's 
new Pseony Flowered, Chinensis, Dwarf Chrysanthemum 
Flowered, German, Pyramidal, Hedgehog, and Ranunculus 
Flowered. 

Balsam (Impatiens Noli-tangere). Flowers white, flesh 
color, pink, red and purple, spotted and striped ; blooming 
from June to October. Treatment the same as for Asters. 

Saepigeossis Ateopurpurea is properly a green-house 



358 HARDY ANNUALS. 

plant, but does well started in a hot-bed in April, and 
transplanted into a highly manured, sandy loam. Flowers 
of the different varieties, purple, white, straw color, and 
beautifully marked. It may be kept in the green-house for 
years, if not allowed to seed. Blooms from June to Sep- 
tember. 

Abronia Umbellata, a beautiful little trailer, with 
heads of fragrant rose-colored flowers. Grows well in light, 
rich soil. Sow in frame in April, or in open border in May. 

NiGELLA HisPANicA and Damascena (Love in a Mist). 
Very free flowering plants, with curious seed vessels. 
Colors, white, blue, purple, yellow. June to October. 
Sow in the garden in May. 

Agebatum Mexicanum. a class of pretty summer 
flowers, growing freely in any soil. Blue and white. June 
to September. This is often used as a bedding plant, and 
propagates freely by cuttings. Sow in open border in May, 
or in frame in April. 

CoBEOPSis, in its many varieties, with yellow, crimson, 
and brown flowers, all summer. Sow in May, in open bor- 
der. These plants will come up for years where they have 
once been grown. 

Allyssum Mabitimum (Sweet AUyssum). Flowers 



HARDY ANNUALS. 359 

white and fragrant, resembling miniature Candytuft. Sow 
in open border in April. It will come up, year after year, 
from self-sown seed. 

Ibeeis Odorata and Umbellata (Candytuft, and vari- 
eties). Fine, hardy, free-blooming annuals, with white, 
red, and purple flowers, from June to August. Sow in 
open border in May. 

Clarkia Elegans and varieties. Hardy annuals, bloom- 
ing from June to August. Sow in open border in May. 
Flowers white, rose, and purple. 

Convolvulus Minor. The pretty dwarf Morning 
Glory, with blue, white-eyed flowers, from June to Septem- 
ber. Sow where it is to bloom in May. 

EscHOLTziA (Chryseis) Californica. Very showy 
plants, with yellow, orange, and white flowers. Sow in 
May where they are to bloom. 

Lupins, varieties. Flowers blue, white, yellow, and 
pink. Sow where they are to bloom in May. They will 
flourish in poor soil. Bloom from June to September. 

PoRTULACCA. Flowers white, red, scarlet, crimson, yel- 
low, and variegated. We know of no better plant than this 
for a hot exposure. It blooms from June until killed by the 
frost. Sows itself, and comes up year after year. 



360 HARDY ANNUALS. 

Canjs-a Indica and varieties (Indian Shot). A tall plant, 
of tropical aspect, with light green leaves and yellow 
flowers. There are many fine varieties, which are very 
ornamental. Sow in pots, in a frame, and transplant. The 
seeds should be soaked in boiling water before planting, 
otherwise they are a long time vegetating. Soil, rich deep 
loam. Blooms from July to October. 

The roots may be kept in the cellar, and re-planted in 
the spring, when they will make finer plants, and bloom 
earlier. 

The following are fine varieties : — • 

C. Warscewicsii. Brilliant red. C. Nohilis. Red. 

C Anneii. Crimson. C. Angustifoha. Light red. 

C. Gigantea. Scarlet yellow. C. Aurea Vittata, Golden. 

C. Limhata. Scarlet and yellow. C. Sellowii. Scarlet. 

C. Bicolor. Red and yellow. 

Delphineum Ajacis (Rocket Larkspur). A popular 
garden flower. Sow where it is to stand, in August, for the 
next year's bloom, or in April. Colors, red, blue, white, 
and purple. Blooms from June to September. 

GoMPHKENA Globosa (Globe Amaranth). A fine plant, 
needing to be brought forward in the hot-bed. Colors, 
purplish red, white, and orange. Blooms all summer. The 
flowers dried form pretty winter bouquets. 



HARDY ANNUALS. 361 

Mathiola (Ten- Week Stock). The annual varieties of 
the Gillyflower are very pretty summer blooming jDlants. 
They should be sown in the hot-bed in April, and trans- 
planted with care, for they bear it poorly, owing to their 
long, fibreless roots. Flowers white, purple, red, and yel- 
low all summer. 

ScHiZANTHiis PiNNATus. Very ornamental little plants, 
with red, white, purple, yellow, and variegated flowers. 
They should be started in pots, in the frame, and carefully 
transplanted. Bloom from July to October. 

Zinnia Elegans fl' pl'. The single Zinnia was an old 
favorite in the garden, but is now completely eclipsed by 
the fine double varieties. The seeds should be started in a 
frame in April, and transplanted in May. They grow to a 
large size, and produce a profusion of red, yellow, and pur- 
ple flowers, as large as a rose, all summer. They are 
among the most ornamental plants of the garden. 

The following list includes many flne species, all of which 
are worthy a place in a large garden. 



Acrodineum Roseum. Open border. Barto7iia Awea. Frame. 

Didiscus Coeruleus. Frame. Cacalia Coccinea. Open border. 

Annual Chrysanthemum. Open Amaranthus Tricolor. Open border, 

border. Hibiscus Africanus. Open border. 

31 



362 HARDY ANNUALS. 

Erysimum Peroffskianum. Open Clintonia Elegans and Pulchella. 

border. Open border. 

BrowalUa Elata. Frame or border. Perilla Nankinetisis. Frame or 

Gilia, in variety. Frame or border. border. 

Anagallis, in variety. Open border. Helichrysumy in variety. Frame 

Lavatera. Open border. or border. 

Calendula Officinalis. Open border. CoZZmsm, in variety. Open border. 

Brachycome IbiridifoUa. Frame or Phlox Drummondii. Frame. 

border. Rhodanthe Manglesii. Frame or 

CallirohcePedata. Frame, in pot. border. 

Antirrhimtm, in variety. Frame in Scabiosa Ati'oiniriourea. Open bor- 

pot. der. 

Four O' Clocks. Open border. Silene ox Catchfly. Open border. 

Maytynia Fragrans. Frame. Tournefortia lidiotropoides . 

Centaurea^ in variety. Frame. Frame or border. 

Gof^e^i'a, in variety. Open border. Linum Grandifloriim. Frame in 

Nolana AtripUcifolia. Open bor- pot. 

der. Petunia, in variety. Frame. 

The following are climbing annuals, adapted for covering 
walls or trellises. They should all, except the Ipomeas, be 
started in pots, in the frame, and turned out into the border 
about the first of May. 

Ipomea Quamoclit is the pretty, graceful cypress vine. 
The seed vegetates with difficulty. Delay planting until 
about the first of June, then choose a very hot noon. Plant 
the seed where it is to stand, in a large circle, so a pole 
may be set in the centre, and strings led to the top from the 
plant, for this is the prettiest way of growing it. Then 



HARDY ANNUALS. 



363 



take a large water-pot full of boiling water and water the 
seed. Under this treatment it will often come up in 
twenty-four hours. 



Tropceolum (Nasturtium), Open border. 

Thunbergia. Frame in pot. 

Maurandia. Frame in pot. 

Loasa Lateritia. Frame in pot. 

Ipomea. Open border. 

Convolvulus Major (Morning Glory.) Open border. 

Cobea Scandens. Frame in pot. 

Cardiospermwn (Balloon Vine). Open border. 

Adlumia CmViosa (Mountain Fringe, or Traveller's Joy). Open border. 



CHAPTER XXIV 



BEDDING PLANTS. 



Propagation. — Gazania. — Verbena. — Lantana. — Heliotrope. — Calceola- 
rias. — Geraniums. — Petunias. — Cupliea. — Feverfew. — Nierembergla. — 
Salvia. — Tritoma. 



S COMMONLY used, this general 
term is given to plants which are 
winter inhabitants of the green-house, 
but which, if planted in the garden, 
bloom profusely all summer. They 
are generally green-house peren- 
nials, but among them are included many 
plants which bloom late in the summer, 
from seed sown the same spring, and of 
which fine varieties are propagated by cut- 
tings. As examples, we may mention petunias and ver- 
benas. 

The treatment of these plants is very simple ; about the 
middle of May turn them out into the flower garden ; they 

(364) 




BEDDING PLANTS. 365 

will grow finely, and give profuse bloom. In August take 
off cuttings, and root them in the green-house, or in a 
frame for your winter's stock, unless you wish to preserve 
the old plants; if so, leave them in the garden until just 
before the frost comes ; then pot them, and winter in the 
green-house, parlor, or conservatoiy. It is, however, always 
a good plan to have a stock of summer cuttings. Some 
species, as Scarlet Geraniums, and Erythrinas, are win- 
tered in a dry state in a cellar, secure from frost, and 
again set out in the spring. 

We describe a few of the principal plants coming under 
this head : — 

Gazania Sple^tdeis's. During the past season this 
plant has attracted considerable attention as a new and 
desirable bedding plant. Its recommendations are, its 
smaU size, the brilliancy and number of its flowers, and 
the rich contrasts of color; it is also a plant of easy 
growth, and small plants soon become vigorous specimens. 

The colors are rich orange yellow, a circle of black, 
banded and mottled with white and brown or choco- 
late at the base of the petals, the centre a reddish 
orange ; foliage dark green. In form, the flower some- 
what resembles a small sunflower, or chrysanthemum. 
31* 



366 BEDDING PLANTS. 

The present variety somewhat resembles the old G. 
uniflora, differing from it in its dwarf habit and com- 
pact growth; the branches are sometimes erect, but bend 
down with the weight of the flowers. The contrast of 
the orange yellow, black, white, and chocolate in the flower, 
produces a most brilliant efi'ect. 

The culture of this plant is very simple ; it will do 
well in almost any soil, and produces flowers in profu- 
sion, from early spring until late in the autumn. It is 
not dried up by the heat of summer, or afi'ected by 
atmospheric changes, but flowers throughout the season, 
closing its splendid flowers during the night, and opening 
them during the day. It is well adapted for pot cul- 
ture ; its growth is vigorous as well as neat and clean, 
and it is not subject to the attacks of red spider and other 
troublesome insects. 

There are about forty species of the Gazania, of which 
most are unknown to our gardens ; all are natives of 
the Cape of Good Hope. 

As a bedding plant, this variety is invaluable ; plant 
in early spring, and take up just before the first frost. 

Vekbena. We have treated so fully of this plant on 
previous pages that further mention is unnecessary. As 



BEDDING PLANTS. 367 

a bedding plant it is unsurpassed. If planted in a com- 
post of peat and leaf mould it makes rampant growth, 
and gives flowers of great size and brilliancy. 

Lais'taxa. This is a showy, shrubby plant, of easy 
culture in any garden soil ; the flowers are in small, 
rounded, or flat trusses, resembling in form a verbena. It 
may be wintered in a light cellar. The following are fine 
kinds : — 

L'Abbe Leautier. Yellow, shading Victoire. Pure white, yellow 

to crimson. eye. 

Lntea Rosea. Fine yellow, shading Speciosa. Orange scarlet. 

to white. Lilacina. Lilac rose. 

Delicatissima. Fine rosy purple. Alba Grandiflora. Fine white. 

Heliotkope. In addition to varieties mentioned in a 
former chapter, we can recommend, — 

Miss Nightingale. Deep violet. Jean Mesmer. Very light blush. 

Heine des Heliotropes. Violet and Beauty of the Boudoir. Dark. 

lilac. Flore. Violet, light centre. 
La Petite Negress. Very dark, dwarf. 

Calceolakias. The shrubby varieties are very orna- 
mental during the whole season. The following are good : — 

Queen of Oude. Orange crimson. Prince of Orange. Orange and 

Sulphuria. Yellow. brown. 

Gen. Outram. Bronze scarlet 



368 BEDDING PLANTS. 

Horseshoe Geeaniijms. The following are fine varie- 
ties : — 

Perfection. Scarlet flower ; variegated foliage. 
Scarlet Globe. Scarlet ; white eye. 
Shottesham Pet. Cerise scarlet ; variegated foliage. 
Golden Chain. Scarlet ; variegated foliage. 
AyiJiie. Brilliant scarlet ; variegated foliage. 
Duchess of Kent. Scarlet; white eye. 
Bijou. Scarlet ; variegated foliage. 
Princess Alice. Pink. 

Petunias. As we have before said, the fine varieties 
are always propagated by cuttings. The following are 
fine kinds : — 

Countess of Ellesmere. Scarlet ; white eye. 

Victory. Dark crimson. 

Flag of America. Striped. 

General Mc Clellan. Purple and white, double. 

Miranda. Purple and white. 

Solfeiino. Purple, double. 

Blonde. "White, carmine edge. 

La Reine. Violet rose. 

CuPHEA Platycentea, of which we have before spoken, 
makes a fine bedding plant. 

Double White Feverfew is fine for garden culture. 

NiEREMBEKGiA. A delicate little plant, with fine foliage, 
and salver-shaped flowers, covering the whole plant. 



BEDDING PLANTS. 369 

N. gracilis, flowers blue and white. N. grandiflora, pure 
white, very large. 

Salvias are indispensable for autumn bloom: the two 
best are those we have before described — S. splendens, 
with scarlet, and S. fatens, with blue flowers. 

Teitoma Uvaeia is a stately-growing plant, with reedy 
leaves, throwing up a tall spike of crimson orange flowers. 
It must be preserved in the cellar in winter. The variety 
Glaucescens is not so highly colored, and Serotina blooms 
late into the r.iitumn. 

In addition to these, the various kinds of Carnation and 
Picotee Pinks, Tea Roses, Pansies, Daisies, Ageratum, 
Lychnis, Bouvardias, Anterrhinums, Gaillardia, Lemon 
Verbena, and Lobelia, can generally be obtained at the 
green-houses. All these make good summer-blooming 
plants. 




CHAPTER XXV. 



HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 



Preparation of Ground.— Planting-. — Protecting. — Summer Treatment. 

— Tulips. — Crown Imperial. — Guinea Hen 
:S>^ Flower. — Anemones and Kanunculus. — Col- 

chicum. — Dog Tooth Violet. — The Lily. — 
Preparation of Soil. — Species. — Tiger Flower. 

— Dahlia. — Tube Koses. — Gladiolus. — Am- 
aryllis. 

^AR THE greater part of the Dutch 
bulbs, which we have so fully de- 
scribed in former pages, will, if 
planted out in the open border, and 
slightly covered with manure, endure the 
Mdnter, and bloom in spring or sutnmer. The 
species and varieties have already been de- 
scribed. Their out-door treatment is very 
simple. Select a Avarm, sunny spot in the garden, where 
good drainage can be secured ; trench this about eighteen 
inches deep, digging in a liberal quantity of well-rotted 
cow manure, and enough pure sand to make the soil rather 

(370) 




HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 371 

loose. This being done, about the first of October plant 
the bulbs in lines and circles, or as may suit the fancy. 

The usual fault in planting bulbs is not setting them 
deep enough ; they are often thrown out by the frost. 

Hyacinths should be planted four inches deep ; Crocus, 
two inches ; Iris, three inches ; Snowdrops, two inches ; 
Jonquils and Narcissus, three inches. 

The bulbs planted, a good covering of coarse manure 
and straw should be laid over the bed about the first of 
December, or just before the ground freezes up. 

In the spring, say about the first of April, rake ofi" the 
straw. The bulbs will be found well up ; the blanched stalks 
will soon turn green, and an abundance of bloom will foUoAv. 

After the leaves have died down, if you have fine varie- 
ties, it is best to take them up, and keep them in a diy 
place until the season for planting comes again. The gen- 
eral practice is, however, to allow the bulbs to remain in 
the ground, where, if undistm*bed, they will bloom year 
after year. 

This treatment is suitable for Hyacinths, Crocus, hardy 
Gladiolus, Iris, Jonquils, Narcissus, and Snowdrops. 

The Polyanthus Narcissijs, of which we have before 
spoken, are not perfectly hardy; the bulbs live, but 



872 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 

they make too early a growth, and are usually frost- 
bitten. 

The culture of the fine varieties of the Tulip requires 
more care. A bed for choice tulips is prepared by excavating 
a pit a foot and a half or two feet deep ; a piece of ground 
in an open, airy situation, and dry at bottom, having been 
chosen. In this pit a layer is placed of thoroughly rotten 
horse dung, at least two years old, and generally the 
remains of an old hot-bed, and the bed is filled in to 
within one inch of the top with rich sandy loam ; old 
loamy turf, chopped fine and mixed with sand, and a little 
rotten dung, is the best, v/here it can be procured. The 
surface of the bed is then covered with sharp or drift sand, 
and in this the bulbs are planted about six inches apart 
every way, and the bed is filled up so as to raise it about 
three inches above the surface, and to bury the bulbs about 
four inches deep. The bed should be highest in the 
middle, and slope to both sides, to throw off" the rain. 
The bulbs are generally planted in October, and as the 
tulip is very hardy, it seldom requires any protection, 
unless the winter should be very unfavorable, either 
from severe frosts or almost constant rain, in which 
case the bed may be protected by being hooped over. 



HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 373 

and then covered with mats, care being taken to leave 
a part to open when the weather is fine. When the plants 
are near flowering, a frame should be placed round them 
to support an awning to shield them from the sun 
and rain. As the bed is generally four feet wide, the 
frame, which includes a walk round it, is about twelve 
feet wide ; the length varies according to the extent of the 
ground, or the number of bulbs to be planted. When 
the flowers fall, and the leaves begin to turn yellow at 
the tips, the bulbs may be taken up and laid on 
shelves, with the root end uppermost, to dry. When 
the fibrous roots are sufliciently withered to allow them to 
be rubbed off*, the bulbs may be placed in drawers or 
boxed, where they must be kept dry until the season for 
planting aiTives. 

If the bulbs are not taken up they soon deteriorate, 
the flowers returning to the original red self- color of the 
species. 

The Crown Imperials (Fritillaria Imperialis) are the 
most stately of spring bulbs. The varieties are yellow 
and red, single and double, golden and silver-leaved, and 
many named varieties, which do not, however, difl'er much 
in color from those above named. 
32 



374 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 

They are all highly ornamental, and will thrive in any 
rich, deep soil. They are impatient of being disturbed, 
and when taken up should never be long kept out of the 
ground. 

The same treatment is required for Frittelaria Persica, a 
beautiful species, with glaucous blue foliage, and a large 
cluster of purplish flowers. 

Fritillakia Meleageis is the pretty little Guinea Hen 
Flower ; there are also white varieties. The treatment 
above described for the crocus will suit it perfectly ; it 
flowers about the middle of May. 

Anemones and Ranunculus seldom do well in our cli- 
mate under open culture ; our winters are so long and wet 
the tubers either sprout prematurely, and are killed, or rot in 
the ground. The hundreds of packages sold each autumn, 
at auction, are not worth the paper they are wrapped in. 

CoLCHicuM AuTUMNALE is a pretty bulb, with flowers 
resembling a crocus, purple, white, striped, single and 
double ; treat as a crocus. The peculiarity of the plant is, 
that the flowers are produced late in autumn ; and the 
leaves appear, ripening the seed, in the following spring. 
It is a very pretty and interesting plant. The bulbs are 
very large, and when once planted should not be disturbed. 
There are also spring- blooming varieties. 



HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 375 

Dog-tooth Violet (Erythronium dens canis) ; a most 
lovely flower, purple and white. It is very liable to die 
out, and should not be disturbed after being planted. The 
bulbs should never be kept long out of the ground. This 
little bulb is worthy of every care ; its flowers are among 
the most beautiful and graceful in the floral kingdom. 
It may be imported for a few pennies per bulb, but 
cannot, to our knowledge, be obtained in this country. 
The loss on importations is about fifty per cent., from 
rotting and drying. Our w^oods produce a pretty yellow 
species, with beautiful foliage. It succeeds poorly in the 
garden. 

The Lily. This is a large family of ornamental bulbs ; 
many of them are hardy, and indispensable in the flower 
garden. 

The plants will groiu in any garden soil, but a little 
attention wdll be repaid by greater luxuriance and more 
abundant bloom. 

The proper soil is a compost of one part loam, one 
part peat, one part clean sand, and one part leaf mould. 
Excavate the soil for about two feet in depth, and fill in 
with the compost. The bulbs should be planted from 
three to five inches deep, according to the size. Autumn 



376 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 

planting is preferable. The bulbs, if kept long out of 
the ground, shrivel and are weakened; it is on this 
account that imported bulbs so seldom flower well the 
first year. 

The soil should be frequently enriched, as the lily is a 
gross feeder, and will bear a large amount of manure, 
showing the effect in increased size of stem and leaves, 
and number of blossoms. 

During the winter the bulbs should be protected by a 
covering of coarse manure, and in summer a little mulch- 
ing placed over the bed, to protect the ground from the 
sun, is beneficial. The best species are, — 

Lilium candidum, one of the oldest garden flowers ; 
always a favorite, from its fragrance and beauty ; too well 
known to need description. A variety with double flowers 
is destitute of beauty, and can only be regarded as a mon- 
strosity; the variety with striped leaves is desirable. L. 
perigrimim somewhat resembles the last, but is botan- 
ically distinct. L. hulhiferum is the common orange 
lily. L. longiflorum, a lovely species ; flowers, pure 
white, very long, and fragrant ; requires slight protection 
during the winter. Lilium lancifolium album, L. I. 
roseum, L. I. speciosum : These three lilies are generally 



HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 377 

known as Japan Lilies. The former is pure white, and is 
a plant of most vigorous growth, the stems often pro- 
ducing from ten to twenty flowers ; it is as hardy as the 
common white lily, and like it, will grow in any good 
garden soil. To produce the flowers in perfection, a rich, 
deep soil, as above directed, should be prepared, and the 
bulbs planted at least one foot from each other every way. 
The growth of the other two varieties is weaker, but the 
flowers are of surpassing beauty; deep rose or red, all 
spotted and rough, Avith brilliant shining points, resembling 
so many gems. Treatment for all the varieties is the 
same. There are many fine seedlings. 

L. Japonicum, a variety with large, white, bell-shaped 
flowers, resembling L. longiflorum. Treat as the last two 
species. 

L. ononadelphum, a pretty species, resembling in growth 
the Martagon family, — sometimes called the Caucasian 
Lily, from its native country ; flowers, yellow spotted, 
drooping. Will grow in any garden soil. 

L. PhiladeljjMcum, one of our native species, commonly 
called the Blackberry Lily. Soil should be rather sandy ; 
flowers deep red, spotted with black. 

L. Canadense, another fine native variety, with light 
32 « 



378 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 

orange and yellow drooping flowers. It improves wonder- 
fully in cultivation, often throwing a stalk five feet in 
height, bearing twenty flowers. 

L. sujjerhum, our finest native species ; flowers orange 
reddish, with numerous spots ; drooping. Succeeds as well 
as L. Ganadense in cultivation. 

L. Martagon, fine varieties, with white and purple 
flowers ; very ornamental, and hardy, if the soil is rather 
sandy. 

L. chalcedonicum, the Scarlet Martagon ; one of the 
most highly- colored species ; hardy, and worthy of a place 
in every garden. 

L. testaceum, or excelsum, a beautiful species, growing 
from two to four feet high ; flowers in terminal umbels, 
yellow or straw color, with faint red spots. It should be 
planted deep, as the bulb makes roots both above and 
below ; perfectly hardy. 

L. Thunlergianum, a showy, orange red variety, from 
Japan ; hardy. 

L. auratum is the new Golden-banded Lily, just intro- 
duced. In size and markings it is the most beautiful of the 
family. It will probably prove hardy, but as yet is very 
rare. 



HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 379 

"We have now to say a few words about summer bulbs, 
or tubers, which have not been mentioned in former 
chapters. 

TiGRiDiA (Tiger Flower). This is a beautiful class of 
Mexican bulbs, of easy culture, producing showy, spotted 
flowers all summer. The most common varieties are T. 
favonia, rich scarlet, spotted with black ; T. conchiflora, 
yellow, spotted with black; T. sjjeciosa, a hybrid between 
these two species, and partaking of the character and color 
of both. T. Wheelerii, a seedling from conchiflora. 
• The "blue Tiger Flower" is not a Tigridia, but Phila- 
callis plumbea. 

The Dahlia. This once popular flower is fast falling 
into unpopularity, and will soon be consigned to oblivion. 
It has seen its best days, and has been compelled to give 
place to the Gladiolus, Hollyhock, and Double Zinnia. 
It is hard to find what could have given the Dahlia its 
popularity. It has no grace of growth or flower, is a coarse, 
rank-growing and sftieUing plant, and beyond a certain 
mechanical rosette arrangement of petal, has nothing to 
recommend it. Its culture is simple. Set the tubers in 
any rich, deep soil, and if the plants are not beaten down 
by high winds, and the season is long, and no early frosts 



880 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 

occur, you will have flowers enough. Preserve the tubers 
in a dry, frost-proof cellar during the winter. 

We cannot, when there are so many beautiful flowers, 
recommend any one to fill the garden with dahlias, but as 
some may fancy them, we give a list of a few of the best. 

Baron Alderson. Buff, white tip. Mrs. Charles Kean. Yellow, tipped 
Fanny Keynes. Straw, crimson with white. 

edge. Dandy. Blush, crimson, maroon. 

Bessie. Clear yellow. Lady Popham. Blush white. 

Queen of Whites. Pure white. Peerless. Yellow. 

Mont Blanc. Pure white. Admiral Stopford. Dark maroon. 

Lollipop. Buff and salmon. Lady Franklin. Deep buff. ^ 

Loveliness. White, tipped with pur- Vesta. Pure white. 

pie. Preeminent. Dark purple. 

Pioneer. Crimson. Goldfinder. Deep yellow. 

Miss Vyse. White and purple. Lady Paxton. Crimson, white tip. 

Dwarf Varieties. 
Cupid. White, tipped with claret. Golden Ball. Deep yellow. 
Zelinda. Purple. Alha Floribunda Nana. White. 

Captain Ingraham. Dark crimson. Victor Hugo. Crimson. 

Of Gladiolus, Tube Roses, and Amaryllis, we have 
treated fully in former chapters. 




CHAPTER XXVI. 



SPRING FLOWERS, AND WHERE TO FIND THEM. 



WE have promised to lead the reader into the Avoods 
and fields, there to gather the rich blossoms which 
Nature scatters freely ; which grow and bloom with no care 
from the hand of man, and often, in beauty, grace, and 

(381) 



382 



fragrance, surpass the most gorgeous inmates of our gar- 
dens. Scarcely have the March snows forsaken the sunny 
forest nooks, when the chilly winds are redolent with a 
strange perfume ; it is unlike any other, — peculiar, — 
and calls up balmy memories of spring, and buds, and 
flowers. 

Whence comes it ? The maples are still dark and gray, 
in their winter's sleep ; not a crimson bud has yet dared 
to peep forth ; and the willows, though glistening in the 
sunlight with their peculiar spring color (if we may so 
speak), still keep the downy catkins folded away beneath 
the sheathing bracts. Search the woods around, and if 
a stranger to woodland mysteries, if you have not that 
hidden sympathy with Nature which draws you to the 
flowers, your labor will be in vain. But brush away 
the fallen leaves, which have so tenderly warmed the 
earth during the long cold nights ; see, amid tufts of 
rough roundish leaves, some dark green, some brown, 
disfigured, a blossom which seems delicately fashioned 
by fairy fingers, or a gem from Flora's own diadem. 
Gather it carefully ; it is the first flower of spring, the 
promise of the year, a token of sunny days and leafy 
woods, of balmy winds and smiling skies. The botanist 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 383 

will call it Epigcea repens ; some, the Trailing Arbutus, 
and Ground Laurel, and others, again, Mayflower, — and 
all are right. We have no patience with the pedantry 
which would supplant our old-fashioned names, homely 
though they be, by learned Latinisms or musty Greek ; 
though in this case the botanical name, signifying creep- 
ing upon the earth, is peculiarly significant. The plant is 
low-growing, hardly attaining the dignity of a shrub ; it is 
covered with rusty hairs, has evergreen leaves, rounded and 
heart-shaped, alternate ; the flowers are rosy red or w^hite. 
It is found in sandy soils, sometimes in rocky situations, 
especially in the shade of pines. 

We have never known this plant to succeed well in 
cultivation, though doubtless it could be easily grown 
with slight attention; certainly its beauty merits every 
endeavor. In England it is valued, and found in the 
catalogues of nurserymen. A fine variety has been ori- 
ginated, called E. rubicunda, the flowers of which are 
larger than those of, the species, of a rich pink, and the 
plant is quite hardy. 

The Epigsea is found from Nova Scotia to the Carolinas ; 
there is but one species, — the one above described. 

Almost as early as the Epigsea, on the sunny hills. 



384 SPRING FLOWERS, AND 

open the azure blossoms of the Hepatioa, a pretty and 
favorite flower, always a welcome guest, and the next 
herald sent by approaching Spring to announce her ad- 
vent. On a bright sunny day, what can be more lovely 
than a tuft of these beautiful harbingers of spring, gazing 
with open eyes to the heavens ! 

"Blue, blue as if the sky let fall 
A flower from its cerulean wall." 

The wild varieties are found of every shade, from a 
deep blue to pure white ; the former are the most com- 
mon ; we also find shades of pink and purple. There 
are two varieties, distinguished by the shape of the 
leaves, and named respectively, H. triloba and IT. acuti- 
loha, of which the latter is the rarer ; the two varieties 
sometimes run into each other. The common names are 
Liver-leaf, so called from the fancied resemblance of the 
leaves to the liver, and far prettier. Squirrel-cups. It is 
a delicate plant, the flowers always appearing before the 
new foliage, and pushing up in great numbers among 
the old leaves. The leaves are heart-shaped at the base, 
and divided into three or five entire lobes. This flower 
has been much improved by cultivation ; we have spoken 
at length, in a previous chapter, of the double red va- 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 385 

riety, which is a perfect gem of beauty; the double 
blue is very common in England, and is very desirable ; 
the double white is very rare in England, if, indeed, it 
be not lost from cultivation. 

Next, as the spring advances, we find the dry hills 
and pastures covered with the common Mouse-ear (Gna- 
■phalium jjlantagineum). It is a plant of little beauty to 
the naked eye (though it develops finely under the mi- 
croscope), exhaling a rich spring fragrance. At seasons 
when flowers are more plentiful it would be passed by 
unnoticed, but in spring it is cherished as an added 
promise of sunny days. 

The barren and fertile florets are on separate plants ; 
the former are white, with revolute segments and brown 
anthers ; the latter are cylindrical. 

The warm sun soon calls out, on the dry, rocky hills, 
the early Saxifrage {Saxifraga vernalis). The flowers are 
white, crowded, arranged in corymbed panicles, and ex- 
hale a pleasant fragrance. 

The leaves are radical, spreading upon the ground, 
producing the flower-stalk or stalks from the centre. It 
is a pretty flower, a favorite of children, and we always 
welcome its advent. 
33 



386 SPRING FLOWERS, AND 

And now, as the days lengthen and the sun gains 
power, as May-day has come and passed, the woods and 
hill-sides bloom with countless blossoms. The grass, tak- 
ing an early start, has thrown up long green spires, and 
the hill-side grasses are already in bloom, and waving in 
the wind their delicate pollen-clad antlers. In the woods 
spring has come ; the maple is lifting a censer of blos- 
soms, the willows by the stream are yellow with bloom; 
the poplars begin to expand their delicate green foliage, 
and the elms have already dropped their brownish-red 
blossoms, and hang Avith their greenish seed-vessels, 
among which the shootings of the tender leaf may be 
perceived. Myriads of birds make vocal all the forest 
aisles, and each woodland path is carpeted with flowers. 
From so many candidates for our favor, which or what 
shall we choose ? 

In the woods grow the Anemones, and peep from 
their borders at the violets, which make blue the fields 
beyond. Therefore let Anemones and Violets be our 
choice, — flowers loved and welcomed by all. 

How many associations cling around the Violet ! What 
pleasing recollections it recalls ! Who is there that does 
not love it ? It is a modest flower, never obtruding 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 387 

itself upon us, except when its numbers make all the 
hill-sides blue, when he must be blind indeed, and insen- 
sible to floral beauties, who fails to notice it. About 
twenty species are natives of the northern United States, 
of which about thirteen are found in New England. 
The colors are white, blue, and purple, in various shades, 
and yellow. Those most commonly met with are, — 

Viola lanceolata (Lance-leaved Violet). This is one of 
our most common species ; petals white, the lower ones 
slightly veined with lilac ; it is generally found in meadows. 

Viola hlanda. Very nearly resembling the last, and 
often running into it ; the leaves are roundish instead 
of lanceolate, and the flowers more fragrant ; color white. 
Between this and the last almost every variety of leaf 
occurs. 

Viola acuta, or primulcefolia seems to be intermedi- 
ate between the last two ; the floAvers are white and 
small. A native of damp meadows. 

Viola cucullata (Common Blue Violet). Too well 
known to need description ; the flowers vary much in 
size and color, being deep or pale purple, nearly white, 
or variegated with white. Common in damp grounds. 

Viola palmata seems only to be a fine variety of the last. 



388 



Viola sagittata. This is our most common violet ; it 
varies much according to the situation and soil in which 
it grows, and has been described under various names. 
In damp places its flowers are pale blue - and large ; on 
dry hills, where it is very common (F. ovata), the flow- 
ers are pale purple and very numerous. 

Viola pedata. Our finest species, easily distinguished 
by its pedate, fine-cut leaves, and its large handsome 
pale or deep purple flowers with orange centre. It is a 
native of sandy or gravelly soils, flowering about a week 
later than the common blue violets. The upper petals 
are sometimes deep violet and velvety like a pansy. 

Though the Violet has always been the emblem of mod- 
esty, and is ever a favorite, to us the simple, blushing wood 
Anemone is the fairest of the woodland flowers. 

There are few which excel it in delicate grace and 
beauty. The foliage is most ornamental, and the tintirigs 
of the blossom most exquisite. The colors vary according 
to the situation where it blooms ; in the shade, being deep, 
rosy, or light pink-purple, in its many shades ; in the sun, 
pure white, or delicately flushed with rose. "We speak now 
only of the common Wood Anemone ; the other species, 
which loves the sunlight better, is usually pure white, very 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 389 

rarely showing tintings of pink. These two species are 
found in almost every locality ; in deep, low woods, or 
rocky pastures, often fringing the edge of the forest with 
their delicate blossoms, or clinging to the sides of shady 
rocks. As the woods are cut away, and the underbrush 
cleared up, the anemones gradually disappear, the rue-leaved 
lingering the longer. The common species are, — 

Anemone nemo rosa (Wood Anemone). Root, creeping ; 
stem erect, supporting a single flower above a whorl of com- 
pound leaves. The flower consists of five petals. By cul- 
tivation the stamens have been converted into petals, and a 
double variety produced. It is very handsome and orna- 
mental, though lacking the simple grace and beauty of the 
single form. The Anemone succeeds well in cultivation if 
the exposure is not too sunny. 

Anemone thalictroides, or Kue-leaved Anemone, called 
by later botanists Thalictrum anemonoides. A very pretty 
plant, distinguished from the last by its tuberous root and 
the number of flowers, which vary from one to fifteen. The 
stem bears two or three leaves at the very summit, like 
those from the root (which are compound, usually three 
times ternate), but without the common petiole, so that 
they seem like a whorl of long-stalked, simple leaves. 
33* 



390 SPRING FLOWERS, AND 

Pistils, several in a little head, tipped in a flat stigma. 
This is a variable plant ; scarce two individuals are found 
alike ; in its wild state it is inclined to sport, and is some- 
times found double. It is like the last perennial, and very 
ornamental, though lacking in graceful beauty. 

Spangling the pastures and rocky hill, in pleasing con- 
trast with the saxifrage and violets, we find the pretty yel- 
low blossoms of the early Potentilla (P. sarynentosa). It is 
a delicate species, blooming abundantly in April and May. 
In early spring the flower stems are very short, but, as they 
continue blooming, lengthen out often a foot or more, run- 
ning along the ground, and rooting at the joints. The 
leaves are quinate, and resemble slightly those of the straw- 
berry, to which the family is nearly related. 

There are several other species of Potentilla, which 
bloom during the latter part of spring, or in the summer, 
some of which are quite ornamental. We have in cultiva- 
tion Potentilla, j^or^5^M^c?a and arguta, both of which are 
pretty additions to our bed of herbaceous plants. Some of 
the cultivated varieties are very fine, the flowers being all 
shades of orange, white, rose, pink, red, scarlet, and crim- 
son. Two of the hardiest and most desirable are P. for- 
mosa and atrosangiiinea. 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 391 

The Houstonia is a pleasing, simple little spring flower, 
in some localities so abundant as to whiten the ground. 
With us it is a favorite flower ; the delicacy of the bud and 
flower is very marked, and the soft pearl-colored petals form 
a pleasing contrast with the pale yellow eye. 

The common species is H. coerulea, or, according to Gray, 
Oldenlandia . coerulea. It flowers in May and later, and is 
too well known to need description (often called Eye-bright). 

While the hills are spangled with violets and potentilla, 
and the woods are gay with anemones, the low grounds 
are ornamented with the yellow blossoms of the Water- cress 
or Cowslip {Caltha palustris). The flower bears some re- 
semblance to the- common butter-cup, but is larger, and has 
the petals more spreading. It is a low-growing plant, of 
frequent occurrence on the banks of low streams or ditches, 
or growing in conspicuous clumps in very marshy ground. 
W^e have never cultivated it, because it is so plenty near us 
in its wild state ; we have, however, no doubt that it could 
be localized to drier spots, without diminishing the size or 
detracting from the color of the flower. To those who 
cannot obtain it in a wild state, it would well be worthy of 
cultivation, and be a great addition to the flower border in 
early spring. It ripens seed freely, and in a few years, from 
a single plant, will spread over a whole meadow. 



392 SPRING FLOWERS, AND 

In this plant the bright yellow leaves composing the 
flower are not petals, but sepals ; the pistils are five to ten. 
Leaves round or kidney-shaped, crenate or entire ; sepals 
six. The plant is used as " greens," or salad, in early 
spring, and sold in the markets under the name of Cowslips. 
Both this name, and the equally common one of Water- 
cress, are obviously incorrect ; the cowslip is a species of 
primrose, and the water-cress a species of nasturtium, a 
cruciferous plant. A better name for those who abhor 
Latin, is Marsh Marigold. 

There is a double variety which we have in our garden, 
a very ornamental plant. The flowers, except in size, re- 
semble the double buttercup, and like that plant often have 
a green centre. It blooms in May, about the time the sin- 
gle variety expands in the meadows, and continues some 
weeks. It does well with us in dry soil, and is perfectly 
hardy. It may be obtained of florists, but is not common. 

Early in May the rocky hills are decked with the delicate 
and graceful blossoms of the Wild Columbine {Aquilegia 
Canadensis). The flower is to well known to need descrip- 
tion. It is a hardy perennial, loving shady, rocky clefts, 
and clinging, with its slender roots, in almost inaccessible 
places. The flowers are very graceful and nodding; in 
fruit the stalk becomes upright. 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 393 

Till within a few years the scarlet of this species had 
never been obtained in varieties of the common garden 
columbine {A. vulgaris of Europe). Latterly, however, 
some new species, and many new varieties, some of great 
merit, have been obtained, in some of which we find the 
peculiar scarlet of the wild columbine. This plant is 
greatly improved by cultivation. The stool increases in 
size every year, and gives a profusion of flowers. We have 
seen a single plant over a foot in diameter, supporting hun- 
dreds of flowers. In cultivation it seems to prefer a rich 
loam. 

A companion of the Anemone nemorosa is the pretty Bell- 
wort, or Straw Flower {Uvularia sessilifoUa). For delicate 
grace it is not surpassed by any of the spring flowers. 
Leaves, oval or lanceolate, oblong, pale, glaucous under- 
neath ; height from six to nine inches ; flower, cream or 
straw-colored, three fourths of an inch long. Easily culti- 
vated and very pretty. 

Uvularia grandiflora is a beautiful species, with yellow 
flowers. With us, in cultivation it is a conspicuous orna- 
ment of the flower border in May and June. Flowers more 
than an inch long. A native of rich woods. 

U. perfoliata resembles the last, but is a smaller plant ; 
succeeds well in cultivation. 



394 



The Convallaria, or Solomon's Seal, is a well known hab- 
itant of our woods ; the little dwarf species, or false Solo- 
mon's Seal, in some localities fairly carpeting the ground 
with its light green, glossy leaves, and perfuming the air 
with the spicy fragrance of its starry flowers. 

All the species love a damp, shady locality, but will 
flourish in almost any good rich soil. They are all plants 
of easy culture, and improve greatly in cultivation ; plants 
not unfrequently attaining twice the size of those in the 
wdld state. All love a rich soil, and will bear very high 
manuring. We have grown them to great perfection in a 
deep bed of well-rotted manure and leaf mould. 

There have been some changes latterly made in this 
genus, all the plants commonly known as Convallaria 
being transferred to Polygonatum and Smilacina, except 
C. majalis, the well known Lily of the Valley, which is 
a native of this country and Europe, being found in the 
high Alleghanies of Virginia and southward. * 

Convallaria hiflora {Smilacina hifolia). Our common 
low growing species, abundant in most situations. Flow- 
ers white and fragrant, in a short, erect cluster ; berries 
white or spotted when unripe, scarlet when ripe. In 
bloom about the first of June. 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 395 

C. trifolia {Smilacina trifolia). Stem with three al- 
ternate leaves, oblong, lanceolate ; spike of flowers erect, 
terminal. Native of cold bogs. Berries red. 

G. stellata {Smilacina stellatd). Stem clothed with from 
seven to twelve oblong, lanceolate leaves, downy when 
young ; growing from ten to twelve inches high. Raceme 
terminal, consisting of a few white flowers, with six ob- 
long petals and six stamens. Berries blackish. 

C. racemosa {Smilacina racemosa). A common plant 
in moist, shady situations. Stem two feet high. Leaves 
alternate, nearly sessile, oval acuminate. Stem terminat- 
ing in a compound raceme of white flowers on peduncles, 
usually of the same color. Berries pale red, sprinkled 
with purple. Blooms in June. 

Convallaria {Polygonatimi) hiflorum. Stem two feet 
high, smooth, round, simple, nodding at top. Leaves 
alternate, oval, nerved, pubescent, pale green. Flower- 
stalks axillary, drooping, branched, supporting one, two, 
or more pendulous, pale green, fragrant flowers. A very 
pretty and not uncommon species. Native of shady 
woods and hills, about old walls and fences. 

G. caniculata {Polygonatum giganteuiii). A very tall 
species, somewhat resembling the last, but distinguished 



396 SPRING FLOWERS, AND 

by its size and angular stalk. Stem three to six feet, 
very stout; peduncles two to eight flowered. A native 
of woods and river banks, in alluvial soil. As remarked 
by Professor Gray, the stem is not channelled in the liv- 
ing plant, so the popular name of "caniculata" seems 
inappropriate. 

Our common species of Corydalis are pretty, early flow- 
ering plants ; natives of woods and rocky hills. They 
succeed well in the garden, and improve in size and 
color. They are nearly allied to the well-known Diely- 
tra spedahilis, in our opinion the finest herbaceous plant 
of recent introduction, which is alike valuable for its 
hardiness and the beauty of its flowers and foliage. The 
plants comprised under the name of Corydalis, have been 
given to various classes, and have many synonymes ; all 
belong, however, to the natural order Fwnariacce, and to 
the classes Adlumia, Dicentra, Corydalis, and Fumaria. 

Corydalis fungosa (Adlumia cirrhosa). A pretty climb- 
ing species, common to gardens, and known as Mountain 
Fringe. The plant attains the height of fifteen feet, climb- 
ing by means of the tendril-like young leaf- stalks ; foliage 
very delicate ; flowers, pale flesh color, in axillary racemes. 
Native of damp woods. 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 397 

Corydalis (Dicentra) cucularia (Dutchman's Breeches). 
A very delicate plant, bearing fine-cut leaves, and a 
scape of about half a dozen white flowers, tipped with 
yellow. Root, a collection of small solid tubers, enclosed 
in a common scaly sheath. A native of rich woods, 
blooming in May or later. Rare in New England. A 
very curious and ornamental plant. 

Corydalis {Dicejitra) Canadensis (Squirrel Corn). A 
pretty species, native of rich woods. Name given on 
account of the round, scattered, yellow tubers, which 
resemble grains of corn. Flowers greenish white, tinged 
with red, with the fragi-ance of hyacinths. A pretty plant. 

Corydalis {Dicentra) eximia is a fine, large species, 
with reddish-purple flowers, resembling the Dielytra. In 
its wild state it is not, to our knowledge, found in New 
England, but is not uncommon in gardens. As an orna- 
mental plant it is most desirable, and increases rapidly 
in rich soil. 

Corydalis aurea. A very glaucous plant, native of 
rocky banks ; flowers golden yellow, very showy ; the 
richness of the color depends, however, on the location 
of the plant. The plant, unlike all above described (ex- 
cept C. fungosa), is biennial, and is often lost to culti- 
34 



398 SPEING FLOWERS, AND 

vation by neglecting to save the seed, and plant every 
year. A rich, moist, partially shaded border is very 
favorable for the growth of this beautiful plant. 

Gorydalis glauca. Much more common than the last, 
and less showy. Like it a biennial, blooming from early 
May to July. It is a delicate plant, of a smooth, glau- 
cous appearance. Flowers whitish, shaded with flesh 
color, and yellow in panicled racemes. A native of 
rocky hills, often found in the shallow deposit of soil 
on large rocks, where it blooms very early, owing to the 
reflected heat from the rock. It flourishes well with us 
in common garden soil. ' 

Sanguinaria Canadensis^ or Bloodroot, is well known 
as one of our earliest spring flowers. The flowers and 
leaf proceed from the end of a fleshy root, and all, 
on being wounded, emit a bright orange-red juice. We 
copy a good description of the root : " The bud or 
hybernaculum which terminates the root is composed of 
successive scales or sheaths, the last of ^vhich acquires 
considerable size as the plant springs up. By dissecting 
this bud in the summer or autumn, Ave may discover the 
embryo leaf and flower of the succeeding spring, and 
with a common magnifier even the stamens may be 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 399 

counted." The calyx consists of two concave, ovate, ob- 
tuse leaves, which are perfect in the bud, but fall off 
when the corolla expands. Petals eight or more. Seeds 
very numerous, dark shining red, with conspicuous white 
crest. The leaves grow during the summer, attaining a 
large size, so as to appear like a different j)lant. Flow- 
ers white, very handsome, contrasting beautifully with 
the golden yellow stamens. This plant increases in size 
in cultivation, and the flowers show a tendency to be- 
come double. It ripens seed freely. 

The common Buttercups, which from May to August 
are so conspicuous in the fields, belong to the natural 
family lianunculacece ; they are generally plants with white 
or yellow flowers, annuals or perennials, with usually soli- 
tary flowers. The fresh juice of all the species is acrid, 
in some so much so as to raise blisters ; the plants are, 
on account of this property, avoided by cattle; but in 
drying, this acrid property disappears, so the plants are 
not as injurious to mowing as to pasture lands ; even, 
however, in the former, Buttercups are not regarded by 
farmers as acquisitions, and the plant is far more popu- 
lar with children than "svith agriculturists. There are about 
twenty species in the northern United States, some of 



400 SPRING FLOWERS, AND 

which are water plants. To describe, or even to name 
all these, would exceed the limits of our pages ; wc 
will only mention those which are called by the general 
name of Buttercups. 

Ranunculus fascicularis. A low growing species, bloom- 
ing on rocky hills in April and May. Perennial. Flow- 
ers yellow, about an inch broad. 

Ranunculus repens. Flowers as large or larger than 
the last. The plant sends out long runners, by which it 
is easy to distinguish it from the other species, but in 
spring it often flowers from upright stems. Very variable 
in size and foliage. 

Banunculus hulhosus. The most common species in 
eastern New England, seldom found in the interior (Gray). 
Root solid, fleshy, acrid. Stem erect, leafy. Flower com- 
posed of six or seven petals, of a bright, glossy yellow. 

Banunculus acris. A taller species than the last ; 
flower nearly as large, but not so bright a color. This 
and the last are those most commonly met with in pas- 
ture and mowing lands. The Double Buttercup is common 
in our gardens, and very ornamental. There appear to 
be two species, the one a low growing, running plant, 
which often increases so rapidly as to almost become a 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 401 

weed, the other tall growing, and only increased by 
division. The latter is by far the most desirable, the 
former often proving a troublesome favorite. The Double 
AVhite Buttercup {Ranunculus aconitifolius), or " Fair 
Maids of France," is very rare. It is a beautiful little 
flower, very double, pure white, and the foliage is re- 
markably pretty. It is, however, very liable to be winter- 
killed. 

It has often been a question with us whether we have a 
more beautiful wild flower than the common and much 
despised Dandelion {Taraxacum dens leonis). The foliage 
of pinnatifid or runcinate radical leaves, is very pretty, and 
of a pleasing green ; the yellow flowers are of elegant form 
and pleasant fragrance ; the single florets, when examined 
through a microscope, are of singular beauty ; the globular 
head of seeds is very ornamental. If this flower was now 
first introduced from some distant country, the whole flori- 
cultural world would go into ecstasies over its beauty ; but 
as it is common, it is despised, and we say, in scorn, " only 
a dandelion." We do not hope to induce any to cultivate 
the Dandelion (to observe its beauties this is not necessary), 
but if any will give closer heed to the beauties of the plant, 
and observe with what lavish hand the great Creator has 
34^^ 



402 SPRING FLOWERS, AND 

endowed it, our purpose in including the Dandelion in our 
catalogue of spring flowers will be answered. 

The early Meadow Rue {Thalidrum dioicum) is con- 
spicuous on hills and in rocky woods in April and May. 
The flowers are greenish, with yellow anthers, and are 
noticeable for blooming so early in the spring ; the 
foliage is very delicate. The white flowers of the larger 
species {Thalidrum cornutum, or corynellum), are very or- 
namental in meadows in June and July. The foliage is 
ornamental, and for this reason both of these plants would 
be additions to the flower border. They are too common 
and too well known to need further description. 

Tkillium. a strikingly beautiful plant is the Trillium, 
in all its species. It is a gem among spring flowers, but is 
rarely met with in gardens, and is not common in the woods 
and swamps. It seems to delight in old woods, and locali- 
ties where the axe of the woodman has never found its 
way, but where the old, moss-hung trees still maintain the 
grandeur of the primeval forest. In such situations the 
Trillium is at home. In early spring, the stem pushes up 
from the short, tuber-like root, bearing at the top three 
large, broad, ovate leaves, and a terminal flower. The plant 
delights in shade and moisture, and the root is commonly 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 403 

found deep in the peaty turf or moss. In congenial situa- 
tions, the leaves and flower are very large, and the whole 
plant has a somewhat rank appearance ; but in drier soils, 
the growth is less rapid, and the plant, though less vigor- 
ous, is more sturdy. After the fall of the flower, the plant 
bears a large, six-sided, purple or red berry, which is very 
ornamental. The name is derived from the Latin triplex, 
triple, all the parts being in threes ; leaves, petals, and 
sepals, all three, though monstrosities, sometimes occur. 
The plants are of easy culture, if planted in proper soil 
and transplanted at the proper season. The soil should be 
rich, peaty loam, and the situation moist, for in sandy, dry 
soil the plants never succeed. 

We have known plants to flower several years in common 
garden soil, but if we except Trillium erectum and grandi- 
florum, which sometimes flourish in moist loam, all the 
species require a prepared soil ; a rhododendi'on or azalea 
bed is well suited to them. 

The proper time for transplanting is late in the autumn, 
after the stem has died down. They may also be moved in 
the spring, but as the root starts so early in the season the 
experiment is not safe. The principal species are, — 

Trillium cernuum (Nodding Trillium). This is the most 



404 SPRING FLOWERS, AND 

common variety of New England, and the least ornamental 
of the genns. Leaves, three large, roundish, or rather 
rhomboidal pointed ; petals white, about an inch long, 
refiexed longer than the sepals ; the flower bends down so 
as to be hidden by the leaves. A native of moist, shady 
thickets. This species is worthy a place in the flower 
border, and succeeds with little care ; it has not with us, 
however, increased in cultivation, or improved in size or 
color. 

T. erectum (Purple Trillium). Leaves nearly as broad 
as long, abruptly pointed ; petals ovate, flat, spreading, 
broader, but not much longer than the sepals ; flowers 
dark brownish-purple, green outside, of not a very pleasant 
odor, nodding on an inclined peduncle. A native of old, 
rich woods. Succeeds and increases in cultivation, but is 
not desirable for a bouquet flower. 

T. loictum, or erythrocarpum (Painted Trillium). A very 
delicate and beautiful species. Leaves ovate, taper-pointed ; 
petals ovate, or ovate-lanceolate, pointed, wavy, wide, 
spreading, painted with purple stripes at the base, almost 
twice the length of the sepals, and shorter than the pedun- 
cle (Gray). This lovely species is difficult to cultivate. 
We have bloomed it in the border for three successive 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 405 

years, but tlie plants dwindled year by year, and finally 
disappeared. The trouble appears to be a want of moisture. 
In the wild state the plant is never found except in cold, 
damp woods and bogs. Could this requisite be supplied, 
we see no reason why this fine plant should not do well ; 
certainly from its beauty it merits every attention. It is 
not a common species in New England. 

T. grandiflorum. This species is the largest and finest 
of the genus. Leaves longer than broad, rhomboid, ovate ; 
petals obovate, longer and broader than the sepals, spread- 
ing at the top ; color pure white, turning before the flower 
fades to dark rose color; flower on a stem about two 
inches long. Petals from two to three inches long. 
Native of rich w^oods ; not uncommon in the north of 
New England. Berry dark purple. This fine species is 
of the easiest cultivation. The soil, if rich loam, needs no 
further preparation ; it does not succeed in light, sandy 
soil. AYe have seen it bloomed in gardens of a size sur- 
passing that of the ^^dld plant. Plants may be obtained of 
some of our florists, but the easiest way is to obtain them 
from their native woods in the proper season. 

Our other native species are, — 

T. sessile. Color dark and duU purple, varying to 



406 SPRING FLOWERS, AND 

greenish. Native of moist woods, Pennsylvania to Wis- 
consin, and southward. 

T. recurvatum. Color dark purple. Native of Wiscon- 
sin, Illinois, Kentucky, and southward. 

T. eredum, var. album. Petals greenish- white, rarely 
yellowish ; ovary mostly purple (Gray). Found with the 
species, from which it otherwise does not differ, especially 
from New York westward. 

T. nivale (Dwarf White Trillium). Petals white, wavy. 
Native of rich woods, Ohio to Wisconsin. 

The smooth, shining, evergreen leaves of the Goldthread 
{Cojjtis trifolia), are very conspicuous in wet bogs and low 
woods in early spring. In some localities they fairly carpet 
the ground, and when spangled Avith the white starry 
flowers the effect is very pleasing. The plant is a low- 
growing perennial, with creeping roots of a golden yellow 
color (whence the name). In places where the plant is 
abundant, they run through the dark bog earth in every 
direction, appearing not unlike threads of gold. The scape 
bears one small, starry, Avhite flower, composed of five to 
seven club-shaped petals ; stamens from fifteen to twenty- 
five ; pistils from three to seven ; seeds numerous, black, 
oval. Blooms from middle of May to June. 



WHERE TO FIND THEM. 407 

One of our finest native plants is the Erijthronium 
Americanum, commonly called Dog's-tooth Violet, though 
why called Violet has been a puzzle to botanists. The 
plant belongs to the Lily tribe, and is the smallest of the 
family. Root a solid scaly bulb, deep in the ground, white 
inside, brown outside. Plant smooth. Leaves elliptical, 
lanceolate, pale green, dotted or clouded with in-egular 
spots. Flower drooping, solitary, composed of six pale 
yellow petals, dotted near the base, expanding in sunny 
weather. The rapidity with which this plant exhales 
moisture is very remarkable. It is almost impossible to 
carry it any distance in the hand, as it dries and fades very 
rapidly. This lovely flower may be cultivated in a deep, 
moist, loamy soil ; in any other it dwindles year by year. 
It is a native of moist woods and thickets, and is not 
uncommon. 

According to Gray, E. hradeatum^ of Boott and Bigelow, 
is only an accidental state of this species. The flower is 
larger, and the scape has a narrow lanceolate bract about 
an inch long, situated about an inch below the flower. It 
also diff'ers slightly otherwise. 

E. alhidmn, the Avhite Dog's-tooth Violet, is not found in 
New England. The leaves are spotted, not dotted ; flower 



408 



SPRING FLOWERS. 



white. Native of low thickets from Albany, New York, 
to Western Pennsylvania, to Wisconsin, and southward. 

Thus have we gathered our bouquet of Spring Flowers. 
We have roamed through the woods and fields, and culled 
their treasures without exhausting the store. Many flowers 
have we neglected; much have we passed by unnoticed. 
We lay no claim to completeness; it requires many a 
ramble to learn all the flowers teach ; but if we have 
introduced any one to a new flower, our purpose is 
answered. 




INDEX. 



Abroxia, 358. 

Abutilon, 21, 40, 143. 

Acacia, 21, 42, 4(), 304, 329. 

Achaenia, 37, 42, 142, 304. 

Achimenea, 251. 

Allamanda, 43. 

Alyssum, Sweet, 358. 

Aloysia, 46, 145. 

Althea, 335. 

Agapanthus, 150. 

Ageratum, 358. 

Amaranth, 3(50. 

Amaryllis, 170; list of 
fine, - . 1, 172. 

Amelancluer, 329. 

Andromeda, 343. 

Anemones, 374, 386. 

Annuals, climbing, 363 ; 
for balcony, 230; list 
of choice, 361, 362 ; sow- 
ing, .353; half-hardy, 
.355 ; hardy, .355 ; sav- 
ing seed, 356. 

Anomatheca, 175. 

Aquarium, 273 ; con- 
struction, 274. 

Aristolochia Sipho, 338. 

Asters, 357. 

Azaleas, 42, 46, 74, 334. 

Babiana, 168; list of fine, 

169. 
Balcony Gardening, 224. 
Bedding Plants, 364. 
Begonia, 159. 
Bloodroot, 350, 398. 
Bridal Eose, 36. 
Burchellia, 46. 

Cactus, 147. 
Calceolaria, 46, 153, 367. 



Calla Lily, 145. 
Callitriche, 278. 
Caltha, 391. 
Calycanthus, 3-34. 
Camellia, 41, 46, 64, 305. 
Campanula, 348. 
Canary-bird Flower, 115. 
Candytuft, .359. 
Canna, .360. 
Cape Bulbs, 43, 160. 
Caragana, 332. 
Carnations, 127. 
Catalpa, .321. 
Cereus, 148. 
Cestrum, 46. 
Cheap Houses, 29. 
Chinese Primrose, 154. 
Chorizema, 43, 46, 295. 
Chrysanthemum, 157 ; 

list of, 158. 
Cinerarias, 46 
Clarkia, 359. 
Clematis, 338. 
Cobea scandens, 228. 
Colchicum, 374. 
Columbine, 392. 
Colutea arborescens, 

335. 
Combretum, 43. 
Conservatory, 18. 
Convallaria, 396. 
Convolvulus, .359. 
Cornus Canadensis, 332. 
Corchorus, .3.35. 
Coreopsis, .358. 
Coronella, 46. 
Correa, 46. 
Corydalis, 396. 
Cowslip, .391. 
Cranberry Tree, .337. 
Crocus, 193, 371. 



35 



Crown Imperial, .37.3. 
Cupheas, 46, 147, 368 
Cuttings, 2?1. 
Cyclamen, 44, 85. 
Cypress Vine, 302. 
Cytisus, 46. 

Daisy Forcing, 218. 
Dahlia, 379 ; list of, 379. 
Daphne, 42, 46, 71, 337. 
Day IJly, .349. 
Dielytra spectabilis, .346. 
Diosma, 46. 

Dodocatheon media, 34% 
Dog-tooth Violet, 375, 

407. 
Dutch Bulbs, 180. 
Dutchman's Pipe, 338. 

Epacris, 42, 295. 
Epigaea repens, 383. 
Epiphyllum, 148. 
Ericas, 42, 46, 76, 302. 
Escholtzia, 359. 
Eupatorium, 46. 
Everlasting Pea, .349. 

Fabiana, 46. 
Ferns, 251. 

Flowering Almond, 330 ; 
Flowering Dogwood, 

.332. 
Forsythia, .337. 
Foxglove, 349. 
Fraxinilla, 348. 
Fringe Tree, 3-35. 
Fritillaria, 373, 374. 
Fuchsias, 42, 46, 137,295, 

303 ; list of fine, 138. 

Gazania, 365. 
(409) 



410 



INDEX. 



Geraniums, 43,40, 89, 368. 
German Ivy, 25iu 
Gillyflower, 3(51. 
Gladiolus, 203 ; species, 

204 ; propagation, 20t) ; 

list of fine, 210, 211. 
Glass, 31. 
Gloxineas, 251. 
Green Fly, 60. 
Green-houses, 16, 18. 
Green Tea, 46. 
Goldthread, 406. 
Guano, 59. 

Hsemanthus, 169. 

Halesia, 33(). 

Hanging Baskets, 253; 
plants for, 254, 255, 256. 

Hardy Annuals, 353. 

Heating, 22-26, 50. 

Heath, 76, 301. 

Heliotrope, 43, 46, 106, 
367. 

Hepatica, 222, 348, 384. 

Herbaceous Plants, 344 ; 
treatment, 345 j list of 
choice, 350. 

Homeria, 177. 

Honeysuckles, 338. 

Horse-chestnut, dwarf, 
335. 

Hot-beds, protection, 
317 ; construction, 311 ; 
preparing, 313 ; plant- 
ing, 315 ; watering, 316 ; 
ventilation, 317. 

Hot -house, 18. 

Houstonia,391. 

Hoveas, 43, 295, 300. 

Hoy a, 157. 

Hyacinths, 182,371; for- 
cing, 183 ; in pots, 183 ; 
in sand, 185 ; in moss, 
180; in frame, 186; 
choice of, 187 ; list of 
fine, 188, 189, 190. 

Hydrangea, 149. 

Indian Shot, 360. 

Insects, 60. 

Iris, 194, 349, 371. 

Ivy, German, 256 ; Eng- 
lish, 257 ; Tree, 258 ; 
Irish, 259; Golden, 2G0; 
Coliseum, 200 ; Five- 
leaved, 261 ; Poison, 
261. 

Ixias, 43, 163 ; list of fine, 
165. 



Jasmine, 46, 152. 
Jerusalem Chei'ry, 155. 
Jonquil, 195, 371. 
June Berry, 329. 
Justicia, 46. 

Kalmia latifolia, 343 ; 

glauca, 343. 
Kennedias, 43, 48. 

Laburnum, 332. 
Lachenalia, 173. 
Lantana, 367. 
Larkspur, 347, 360. 
Laurestinus, 156. 
Layering Pinks, 133. 
Leaf Mould, 59. 
Lean-to House, 19. 
Ledum, 343. 

Lemon Verbena, 46, 145. 
Lemon Trees, 69. 
Lily, 374 ; soil for, 375 ; 

varieties and species, 

376, 377, 378, 379. 
Lily of the Valley, 346 : 

forcing, 220. 
Linum, 46. 
Liquid Manure, 59. 
List of fine Azaleas, 76 ; 

Camellias, 68 ; Heaths, 

84 ; Pinks, 1.36 ; select 

plants, 46. 
Loam, 59. 
Lobelias, 46. 
Lupin, 349, 359. 
Lychnis, 349. 
Lycopodia, 252. 

Magnolias, 333, 334. 
Mahernia, 46, 153. 
Manettia, 46. 
Manure, 59. 
Manuring, 58. 
Mauraudias, 229. 
Mealy Bug, 60. 
Mignonette, 356. 
Mountain Laurel, 343. 
Mouse Ear, 385. 
Myrtles, 46, 141. 

Narcissus, 196, 371. 
Nasturtium, 108. 
Nerine, 178. 
Nierembergia, 368. 
Nigella, 358. 

Olea, 46. 
Oleander, 150. 
Orange Tree, 42, 46, 69. 



Orchids, 44, 306. 
Out-door Culture of 

Pinks, 1.32. 
Out-door Gardening, 318. 
Over-stocking, 34. 
Oxalis, 166 ; list of fine, 

167. 

Pansy, forcing, 219. 
Parlor Conservatory, 32. 
Passion Flowers, 46. 
Peat, 59. 
Pea Tree, 332. 
Pelargoniums, 43. 
Periploca, 338. 
Petunias, 368. 
Phlox, list of fine, 347. 
Picotees, 127. 
Pinks, 126. 
Piping Pinks, 134. 
Pit, 19. 

Pittosporum, 46, 151. 
Plants for Green-house, 

46. 
Polyanthus, forcing, 217. 
Portulacca, 359. 
Potamogeton, 281. 
Potentilla, 390. 
Pots, 55. 
Potting, 57, 92. 
Preparation of Garden, 

320. 
Propagating Pinks, 128. 
Pruning, 61. 
Purple Berberry, 334. 
Pyrus Japonica, 337. 

Ranunculus, 374, 400. 

Red Spider, 60. 

Rhododendrons, 340 ; list 
of hardy, .341, 342; 
treatment of, 340. 

Rhyncospermum, 43. 

Roses, 118; China, 118; 
list of China, 122; Tea, 
123; list of Tea, 124; 
Bourbon, 124; list of 
Bourbon, 125 ; Moss, 
list of, .339 ; Climbing, 
338 ; June, list of 339 ; 
Perpetual, list of, 339. 

Sagittaria, 281. 
Salpiglossis, .357. 
Salvias, 46, 107, 369. 
Sand, 59. 

Sarracenia purpurea, 285. 
Saxifrage, 385. 
Scale, 60. 



INDEX. 



411 



Schizanthus, 361. 
Seedliug- Tiuks, 135, 
Slirubs, forcing, 223. 
Shutters, 28, 33. 
Silver Bell, 330. 
Situation, 50. 
Smoke Tree, 335. 
Snowball, 337. 
Snowdrop, l<di, 371. 
Soil, 45, 5y, 91, 120, 1.38. 
Solanum, 155. 
Span-roofed House, 19. 
Sparaxis, 43, 174 ; list of 

line, 175. 
Sparmanuia, 46. 
Specimen Plants, 35-39, 

286. 
Spice Bush, 334. 
Spireas, list of, 336, 349, 
Spirea prunifolia, 227, 

336. 
Spring Flowers, 381. 
Staging, 24. 
Stephanotus, 43. 
Stevia, 46. 

Stirring the Soil, 58. 
Stove, 17. 
Stuartia, 332, 
Sweet Pea, 357. 

Tartarian Honeysuckles, 

33(). 
Tecoma, 46. 
Thalietrum, 402, 
Thunbergia, 144, 
Tiger Flower, 2.30, 379. 



I Tigridia, 230, 379, 

I Trailing Arbutus, 383, 

Tree Pa;onies, .333. 

Trillium, 402. 

Tritoma, 309. 

Tritonia, 176. 

Trollius, 347. 

Tropaeolum, 46, 108 ; Ma- 
jus, 112, 229; Mmus, 
113; Lobbianum, 114; 
Pulcherrimum, 114 ; 
Smithii, 115 ; Randii, 
115 ; Perigrinum, 115, 
229. 

Trumpet Flower, 338. 

Tube Rose, 199. 

Tulips, 190, 372 ; species, 
192. 

Uvularia, 393. 

Yalllsneria, 279. 

Varieties of Geraniums, 
93. 

Ventilation, 30, 52. 

Verbenas, 43, 40, 94,367 ; 
seedling, 100 ; varie- 
ties, 102, 

Veronica, 46, 350, 

Violets, ,386 ; forcing, 214. 

"Waltonian Case, 262 ; con- 
struction, 264 ; heating, 
269 ; management, 269. 

Wardian Case, 232 ; dis- 



covery of, 233; con- 
struction of, 236 ; soil 
for, 239 ; preserving 
flowers in, 242 ; u sim- 
ple, 243 ; stocking, 244 ; 
planting, 247; ventila- 
tion, 248 ; watering, 
248 ; native plants for, 
249; list of flowerinof 
plants for, 250; foli- 
aged plants for, 251 ; 
tall lerns for, 251 ; 
dwarf ferns for, 251 ; 
list of climbing ferns 
for, 252 ; lycopodia for, 
252 ; basket plants for, 
252. 

Washing, 52, 

Water, 45, 

Watering, 52, 323. 

Water Buttercups, 282. 

Water Lilies, 278. 

Water, supply of, 32. 

Wax Plant, 157, 

Weeding, 321. 

Weigela Rosea, 227, 337. 

Window Boxes, 57. 

Winter Garden, 21. 

AVistarla, 338. 

Woodbine, 338. 

Worms, 58. 

Yucca, 346. 
Zinnia, .361. 



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